Jump to content

Recommended Posts

On 8/1/2017 at 9:16 AM, mattb73lt said:

Well, my text disappeared when I posted those pics. But, it's been two months since I touched this, didn't think I would be that busy. Finally got on it this weekend, finished all the welding and primed the frame. Got the donor frame to the sandblaster and into the shop for primer.

The big score was finding a "Back-Drop" exhaust for the Cummins. It's super nice and once its painted and installed I'll post some pictures.

if you happen to come across another manifold that is not solid gold  let me know      cc

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎8‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 6:16 AM, mattb73lt said:

Well, my text disappeared when I posted those pics. But, it's been two months since I touched this, didn't think I would be that busy. Finally got on it this weekend, finished all the welding and primed the frame. Got the donor frame to the sandblaster and into the shop for primer.

The big score was finding a "Back-Drop" exhaust for the Cummins. It's super nice and once its painted and installed I'll post some pictures.

does your backdrop have the fin that seperates 3 cylinders in it? All that I have seen with the fin will say Cummins Diesel on the 2 pieces.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, mackdaddy said:

does your backdrop have the fin that seperates 3 cylinders in it? All that I have seen with the fin will say Cummins Diesel on the 2 pieces.

 

Yes, there's a cast divider separating the cylinders. Three upfront and three to the rear. The gasses meet as they enter the exhaust pipe. I've been told that's where the exhaust note comes from.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So what is the wheelbase going to be?  Mine is long even at 206" for a single axle.  Makes it look like a 240ish if it was a tandem.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice to see that he stretched the legs on Ken's old truck.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ya me too.....bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, hurstscrambler said:

Excellent news, We are anxiously awaiting updates!  Andy

I double that!

Good luck on the progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice looking motor! With that block heater, looks like you're planning to run this truck in the winter. Will that paint on the manifold hold up to exhaust heat? Is it just hi-temp paint?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, h67st said:

Nice looking motor! With that block heater, looks like you're planning to run this truck in the winter. Will that paint on the manifold hold up to exhaust heat? Is it just hi-temp paint?

It should, ive had very good luck with it on other engines. Pretty durable

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish I had the skill and nerve to cut into something that far.  Looking good. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

It’s going to get a lot worse, soon. I need to cross brace everything first before going further. The roof is coming off and the lower cab sills will get replaced. I don’t think the L cab is as sturdy as the standard B cab and more prone to rust. The back panels on this one were replaced early in its life and weren’t done well so they came off easily. This is certainly the worst bart of this project and it’ll take a bunch of time to fix.

Nice Matt-but I assume when you talk about "replacing" sections this means you are fabricating all these pieces-no donor involved?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great effort Matt, congratulations for your determination. Considering the near complete refabrication of the cab frame and panels work you are doing, for long term rust and sound and thermal protection/benefits, you may like to have a look at Lizard skin. We used it throughout our B model rebuild as have others restoring / rebuilding their Macks. It is easy to apply and being a water based non toxic liquid paste it will flow into all joints, cracks, corners and pockets of the cab and frame, resulting in 100% seal/protection. It dries quick in warm weather, and you apply no more than thickness of a credit card. If you apply the 2 lizard products, first sound protection and then the original lizard skin you will achieve the best result. And you also should apply inside the door cavities and walls, especially at bottom inside of the doors where water dust and moisture combines. Pictures of our cab and door with the 2 products applied, sound control first and lizard skin on top - must be in this order. We also did underside of the cab, engine side of firewall, underside of fenders and hood. No need to put any other stick on products. There are some good videos on you tube and the lizard skin web site to watch. We found the product around 2003 from a hot rod restoration magazine, it has been available at least 16 years. 

cab paint inside Aug 2103 no1.JPG

cab paint inside Aug 2103 no2.JPG

cab paint inside Aug 2103 no3.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, harrybarbon said:

Great effort Matt, congratulations for your determination. Considering the near complete refabrication of the cab frame and panels work you are doing, for long term rust and sound and thermal protection/benefits, you may like to have a look at Lizard skin. We used it throughout our B model rebuild as have others restoring / rebuilding their Macks. It is easy to apply and being a water based non toxic liquid paste it will flow into all joints, cracks, corners and pockets of the cab and frame, resulting in 100% seal/protection. It dries quick in warm weather, and you apply no more than thickness of a credit card. If you apply the 2 lizard products, first sound protection and then the original lizard skin you will achieve the best result. And you also should apply inside the door cavities and walls, especially at bottom inside of the doors where water dust and moisture combines. Pictures of our cab and door with the 2 products applied, sound control first and lizard skin on top - must be in this order. We also did underside of the cab, engine side of firewall, underside of fenders and hood. No need to put any other stick on products. There are some good videos on you tube and the lizard skin web site to watch. We found the product around 2003 from a hot rod restoration magazine, it has been available at least 16 years. 

cab paint inside Aug 2103 no1.JPG

cab paint inside Aug 2103 no2.JPG

cab paint inside Aug 2103 no3.JPG

I was going to use Lizard skin on the entire bottom, then Dynamat over the entire interior. Probably go double thick under the mat for the firewall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Red Horse said:

Nice Matt-but I assume when you talk about "replacing" sections this means you are fabricating all these pieces-no donor involved?

I've collected up numerous pieces that are re-production (sills, cab back) and a lot of donor pieces. I was lucky enough to have a friend give me a Bridgeport, Ct fire truck cab. It was really gone on the bottom end but all the upper metal was good. I carefully cut it apart and was able to get the cab top, under structure for it, cowl and windshield area.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, mattb73lt said:

I've collected up numerous pieces that are re-production (sills, cab back) and a lot of donor pieces. I was lucky enough to have a friend give me a Bridgeport, Ct fire truck cab. It was really gone on the bottom end but all the upper metal was good. I carefully cut it apart and was able to get the cab top, under structure for it, cowl and windshield area.

Nice- I won't look for it at Brooklyn this year-maybe next for sure😎

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
38 minutes ago, Red Horse said:

Nice- I won't look for it at Brooklyn this year-maybe next for sure😎

Hopefully! I will have to have some small parts fabricated locally, but I have all the major pieces.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been very busy of late or as we say out here "flat out like a lizard drinking" and have hardly had time to check in let alone post

This truck is coming along really nice 

I never new those back drop Cummins manifolds were a sort after item, I have had one kicking about for many years and was looking at it only a few months ago and ummed and ared as to keep it or bin it 
I dont think they are in much demand out here as been RHD they are exiting in the wrong spot for steering gear and brakes and clutch etc

Most large trucks sold in Australia are double rail chassis and on cattle trucks they often fit grease nipples to force grease in between the rails to stop them splitting apart 
I wonder with all the salt and the like used on the roads in the US might this be a good idea when you slip the rails over each other like you have ?????

By the way a grease nipple is what you blokes I think call a "ZERK" 

Anyway great stuff just the same 

Paul  
 

 

Oh yeah a bit more, my Cummins manifold is in three pieces and Im pretty sure Cummins and then Diesel are cast into the rear two pieces

 

Edited by mrsmackpaul
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...