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mattb73lt

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mattb73lt last won the day on February 25

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About mattb73lt

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    berlin, ct

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  1. I mounted the controller and a 4 circuit fuse block to the underside of the steering column support.
  2. Yeah, they’re very common. I see them in a lot of applications. It was kinda where the idea formed. Finding the controller was a big plus. I searched around for a while, looking at rotary type switches, but this one won out due to the synchronizing feature.
  3. My new wiper system. I never really liked the L model wiper system. The standard B I thought was much better and was certainly more refined. You can throttle it back so it sweeps so slowly, you don't need a intermittent. Plus, the arms park and stay parked when not in use. None of that occurs in the L cab. With that in mind, when I cut apart my cab I removed all the air supply lines from the center windshield post. Now that I'm at the point of the rebuild where things are going back together, I needed to figure out what I was going to do. The search took a while, but this is what I came up wit
  4. Wow, those look pretty good compared to what you started with. Nothing wrong with a little patina, these were work trucks not show queens!!
  5. The L cab uses two separate motors. I like the standard B wiper system a lot better. The one I put together should be a big improvement!!
  6. Chop-Chop, just cut those two feet of excess wiring out of my new harness I was talking about. But, it needed to be done to make it fit the cab. Clustered all the wires by component, so if I ever have to change something it'll come out without being tangled with something else. I still have to prove it out one more time and double check all the connections for tightness, add a grounding point. Back to the cab after that to chase some wires around before the dash goes in for the last time. Remove my blue tape tags, too!! I've also got my windshield wiper solution to install. I hunted
  7. I'd start by requesting the build records using the VIN, from the Mack Museum, if you haven't already. Then research the company that built the body. Make some connections with groups that collect/restore buses. Internet searches can be very helpful for photographs, technical info and other connections. In time, you'll built those contacts and sources to get the info and input to get the restoration done.
  8. The breakers are Klixon CDM-20's. There were four originally, all 20 amps. I'm adding a fifth and the panel can take six. I'm using the far left hole for my Jake Brake switch. These are from the original manufacturer and identical, except the units are sealed ones and the reset button has the amperage printed in it instead of in a little recess. I sourced them from Waytek, Inc., www.waytekwire.com . They had them for about half of others at $16 ea. They're available from 5-40 amps. I'm assuming your H model dash is similar in arrangement, as my '63 standard B has automatic breakers a
  9. Bench work today. Starting to wire up the dash. I’m glad the whole thing comes out of the truck. A lot easier to get it all done, then install it as a unit. It would a lot harder to try and do it with it in. Still lots of sub-projects waiting to be finished as parts are still out for work and shipment. But, moving along and getting it done.
  10. That’s still a good part number. The specs are off for my application. They’re for 15”X4” brakes and the pilot hole is a lot smaller, although they looked very similar in the pics you posted. I was hoping that maybe that might be a good drum. I’ll see what the ones I found look like when they arrive.
  11. It should. I'm not too worried about the excess brake surface area, it'll only be about an 1". If you still have that drum/hub, could you see if there's a part number on the drum?
  12. Slowly filling up the firewall. Searching through old 35mm pics I took years ago to figure out what holes get used or not. Digital pics are so much better and clearer to figure things out and to manipulate. The Lizard Skin has helped seal the multitude of unused holes. I’ve just been poking it out where I need to, the rest aren’t very visible. Had to use my Dremel Tool to modify some grommets to allow the cowl vent drain lines to pass through. My dust barrier is pulling double duty by cutting the shop area in half, saving gas by not heating the whole thing. Lots of small tedious things being f
  13. Those hubs look pretty close. There is a pretty big step on them, by the inner bearing inside the drum. But, that what I’ve been looking for and if my measurements were any good, I think I found the drum. My initial measurements were way off, as I was ballparking them. I get them tightened up pretty good and cam up with that Webb drum.
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