mattb73lt

I wish I had a smart phone back then. I would have documented a lot more of the truck. The photos seem a lot clearer than the old 35mm I used, plus no wait to get the photos back. Manipulating them, zooming in or sending them to someone is so easy. I photograph everything, especially disassembly. It's like a color notebook.

Matched up this view from '98 to now. BIG improvement!!

Did you ever look at those reproduction Guide Lights? They are or were available in chrome and painted versions. They were advertising in hot rodder magazines, I believe they still are. Just looked them up on eBay, new and used are there. Guide 682-C's, with the little clearance light on top.

Look at the lower back wall of the cab exterior. They’re prone to rust there. Any seams, rain gutters, door sills, fender edges where the bolt together. Signs and quality of any bodywork. Floor pans, especially the driver’s foot area. Frame for any signs of separation. From the eBay pics it looked pretty good. If all that stuff has been done do it, then it comes to what you’re willing to pay. Bring someone with you that’s at least a little knowledgeable on trucks. Try not to get in over your head or capabilities ( read money and skill level). Good Luck, Matt

I have to agree with Mike, kind of a vague question. Give some specifics and pictures would be a big help for some honest advice. There’s always some key areas to lot at, but you need a reference point to start with.

They’re just exit vents that allow the air out and not hooked up to anything. The doors drop down to open. They seal up OK, but not air tight. Going to add A/C at some point when it’s done. Probably a back wall unit.

I was trying to figure out how I wanted to make the pull happen. Either a lanyard or a pull. Settled on the pull. It’s actually a pull for a high tank Victorian toilet. LOL!

Yes, over in Watertown, CT. I removed what was left of the interior and saved it in a box. It was so brittle, it crumbled easily. I was only able to save two pieces relatively intact. I spent several hours taping the pieces together to build bigger pieces, then sandwiched those pieces between pieces of cardboard. Took all that to the upholsterer with the cab. That along with an L model picture book and photos I took at shows over the years was what he used to build the headliner and back wall. He modified the back wall to cover where the two man bench was as I’m using two bucket seats instead. He said the pieces and pictures were very helpful. I’m very happy with what he did, really great work.

It's called "Time and $$$", it can be hard to find especially the Time part. LOL

Thanks, I can't wait to start the assembly of the rest. It's been such a long time coming.

A little bit of elbow grease was all it took to make it look new again. Sure!!

My one concession, other than the electric wipers. I needed a little bit of comfort.

Picked up the cab today and made it back home without damage or dropping it on the highway, again. That was a huge relief and yes, I drove like an old lady. The work finishes off the cab and really makes it look great. Took some pictures with and without the seats. I just wanted to see how they looked with the headliner in place. Such a huge difference from when I dragged it home all those years ago. It truly looks brand new!!

Most times bead lines, embossments, dimples are placed to strengthen a panel to add rigidity. A supplemental benefit is to dampen the harmonics, as previously stated. Floor panels are another good example of this process. The panel can be much thinner, i.e lighter, but have the same strength of a much thicker and heavier panel.

Yes, quite a bit. The entire interior was sprayed in both types of Lizard Skin (heat & sound), then supplemented by patches of Dynamat where I thought it would help. Anywhere you wrap on the cab results in a dull thud.