mattb73lt

No problem. I started by googling “sliding dust curtain”. Up came a bunch of sights, and chose AKON Curtain and Divider. www.curtain-and-divider.com They had what I was looking for and were easy to work with. Took about 30 days to get the order, from the first call. Many options and products to choose from. Installation was easy, I did it by myself in about three hours for both curtains. So far I’m very happy with them and should work great once I start spraying and for any dusty projects.

It’s a 1926 Runabout (Roadster)

They’ll at least cut down a significant amount and some of the messier stuff I do. My shop has evolved a lot since I last had a large paint project. I don’t want to spend months cleaning up the overspray afterwards.

Finally received my dust curtains and had time to install them today. These should help keep the overspray and dust out of the rest of my shop. Now, back to work!

Good, but a little slow at the moment. Awaiting a sliding dust curtain to section off my working bay from my workshop/machine tools. As usual, the dust from the bodywork went everywhere and I want to control the overspray better once I start painting. Plus work is in full swing, so time the last few weeks has been tight. I should be on to wet sanding and paint in the next couple of weeks.

This was my solution for comfort and fit. Two low back excavator seats, with armrests, mounted on spring ride bases. Sourced from Northern Equipment. I welded up framework from 1” square tubing to mount to the original bolt holes. Then a 20” factory wheel(vs. 22” original) that came with the Sheppard P/S box that came out of a B-61SX I parted out to do my diesel conversion. It steers as easy as a passenger car with the big Sheppard box.

I think it could be done. Maybe out of 1” tubing, or a little heavier. Of you were to build a framework that could be covered. You could take it to a canvas shop and have the make you a nice fitting top that could be removable. Kind of like a military vehicle. Here’s a few pics of a military pickup I have and the bow system For the cargo bed and cab top. Just food for thought.

A little before, during and after on the left side cowl. It's come a long, long way.

Basic body work done and a re-prime today. Panels are all looking good and decently straight. still more sanding and minor work to do, but considering how far apart this cab has been, I'm very pleased with how it's progressing.

Yes, was also thinking of doing it myself and painting it. I saved the other wheel for twenty years to use in the B-73. The original has about 6+ decent cracks. It would have saved me time & money. But better to find out now than during reassembly.

I think you have a heavier shaft. That B-42 shaft only measures1.00” max over it’s length. So your’s is heavier like the B-73. Well at least we know it won’t fit. Sad part for me is that I was saving a really nice, crack free, 22” steering wheel from my B-42 for the B-73. I only recently took the steering column apart for paint and now I know it won’t fit, so back to the cracked one. Crap. Let me ask around to see if I can find you one.

I found some differences in boxes. Just happened to have the box for my B-73 laying on the floor. That shaft is 1.125” OD and tapers to .975 where the u-joint is. The steering wheel end is larger and 1.125”OD as well. It is a Gemmer box and worm and roller, too. A quick measure of the OD should determine what shaft it is.

Ok, it's out. It measures 46 1/2" long, lower end is 1.00" where the worm is and has a slight taper at the steering wheel end to .975". Steering wheel splines and threads look good, there's two small, short grooves where the split race support the shaft in the tube (where yours likely failed). The worm looks pressed on with a keyed area, looking at the very end. I don't have a means to press it off due to it's length and don't want to damage it trying if this will fit your's.

I'm thinking it's keyed and pressed on. I'll dig into the box tomorrow to see. I'm not going to use the box again and I thought this might work.

I wonder how the worm gear is secured to the shaft? I was thinking about pulling that B-42 box apart to get the shaft out. If the worm can be removed and swapped and all the other measurements are the same, this could be a pretty easy repair.