Freightrain

83 Mack Cruiseliner, 10 speed, 370 rears, 1300 miles since motor has been rebuilt, have all parts and liners to interior, 350 Cummins, 6000 or will trade for a good four wheel drive older model pick up 1983 mack Cruiseliner Ruther Glen, VA · over a week ago · $6,000

Not hateful looking or priced. Look at the flag R model next to it?? Here is listing for ones not on FB. Mack 300 motor, 13 speed Eaton transmission overdrive, Mack rears with Mack suspension, single steel frame, full screw on rears, 2 line wet line, manual steering, all glass good, tube type tires (need replaced), VIN # 786LST28575, Western brown interior, air ride drive seat low back, fixed passenger seat low back, sleeper cab over last ran in 2017. Needs TLC Less

My B61 were down. I contemplating flipping them up when I redid the doors this winter. But after assessing the situation, I left them down.

Pretty much what I would have to do for our shop. Thus I tried to avoid all that for a couple trips.

Plenty of "outlaw" trucking today. Good or bad. We're not "unsafe". We're not dealing with big, heavy loads. I'm talking 800# piece of round stock, just too long to fit in an 8ft bed. We use a 15ft utility trailer.

Sounds like a real "If-maybe" kinda thing. If they are willing to offset the cost, might be worth it. Would you still be an employee or sub-contractor at that point? Is one better then the other when it comes to the truck deal? Our trips to PA or IN are random and we've done it for decades. Then one trip to PA about 7-8 yrs ago got the driver pulled over by DOT because they saw no signs/DOT on the doors. Bam, busted. Again, for the random trip over and to avoid all the paperwork(IFTA, Med card, audits, etc) I would have to deal with just for it, we use the pickup/utility trailer and play "we're just J Q Public with a trailer".

Can-o-worms? They wanted to set up our stakebed to travel across state lines at work(after getting caught without all the proper paperwork). What a disaster. Paperwork and more paperwork(and of course it was going to have to be my responsibility). I told them to use the pickup and trailer and be inconspicuous.

I spent plenty of time just looking under the hood to come up with everything to make sure it would work before buying the kit. I removed the fuel filter off the engine and re purposed the two bolts to hold the bracket. This is what they did on an R model engine. The biggest difference is the B model is such a short hood there is no extra room for another pulley behind the water pump pulley. You can't use the rear groove because of the accy drive on the diesel sticks out, so I used the front groove. It just clears everything. Here you can see the original two bolt bracket from the fuel filter. I cut the band section off and welded the plate to it. The lower tabs run gussets down to the accy drive to support everything. I then welded the original bands to another bracket and mounted the filter on the front frame rail, under the outer hood panel. I hung the evaporator under the dash using my own brackets to clear my CB radio. The condenser is hung under the bunk horizontally with a fan on it. It makes instant cold air this way. I ran a hot wire from the a/c power switch to the fan relay so it turns on as soon as I turn the system on. It's suppose to work off the trinary switch, but I want it running full time to keep the condenser as cool as possible since being where it is gets no real air flow, especially sitting still. I got the kit from Retro Air in Texas. They don't offer the same one anymore, but you can find it on Ebay also. I paid $600 for all. Comes with Sanden pump and all hoses. I needed longer hoses to reach behind the bunk, but I bought some from Retro air. It uses very good Parker a/c line. It's been running for 5? yrs now without issue. It's a 14K btu unit and will freeze you out even on a drafty old B model. It only needs to be set on low to be more then comfortable on a warm day in Ohio.

I did my 673, not sure what the front of a 707 looks like. I mimicked the bracket from an R model in a way. I run off the front pulley. I have other pictures if they will help you.

Really? On the boost side? Never really thought about that. Would that really work okay? I still run the little box filter on the side of the pump. I've contemplated changing it over to the air cleaner pipe. I have the plate to convert it, as it came on the 237. I just never plumbed it so I used my old 673 filter.

Welcome to the forums!

Air compressor inlet come from the air cleaner tubing? Pull that line and see if it is oily. You say the compressor is rebuilt and it didn't change anything? If it is not sucking oil on the inlet, then it has to be coming from the pump. When mine needed rebuilt, it only made oil milkshakes(water, oil, foam), not tar.

I remember 25 odd years back, my work(machine shop), the owner was going to mandate random testing. I said "Good". The only problem was we had a couple guys that said "Save your money". They were good machinist, had good skills and didn't miss work. We didn't have safety issues. It was short lived and never tried testing again. Granted they aren't driving 80K lbs trucks, but getting caught up in a big lathe isn't a good thing either. In my 33 years, we've only had one bad incident and that was just pure stupidity on the operator.

We have a sub station next to my work and high tension power lines running across the north side of lot, right where I park. You can hear them hum pretty loud some days. Had a bad day last year. Heard a very loud explosion and out went the lights. Oops. Never did hear what happened.

I only link pictures from an outside hosting site. I use Postimage.org. It's free and easy to use. Download them here, copy/paste file name here. I thought there was a limitation here for total pictures downloaded? Has that changed?