Vladislav

I'd start with what Paul said. Wash up the rearend of the pump. There're a few small covers on the governor and if the leak goes from below of any of them it's probably an easy fix to do right on the engine. If it's from below the big governor housing you'd probably need to remove the pump to work with it on a bench. Pumps of those years have simple fit and don't need injection reset after removed and put back on. But better look for the particular pump design before digging that deep. At least post a few pics of its general appearance on here. Vlad

Those washers were stamped steel dishes with rubber pads (also washers) put below. The steel ones are usually reusable or could be purchased from a hardware shop. I didn't see a straight way to get the rubbers and ended up buying screws for attaching metal sheets for roofing (on a house) and separated rubber washers off their steel washers.

Sounds like you've got an issue with shifter rails in the main box top cover. There are 3 rails with shift forks connected to each one. One rail and fork for 2nd and 3rd speed, one for 4th and 5th and one for 1st and Reverse. The rails have brackets at the top with recesses. When you move your shift lever its bottom end goes in those recesses. When the tranny is in neutral the recesses lined up so you can move the lever left to right. When you move the lever front (or backwards) it forces the rail it occures in a ditch of to go back (or forward). The rail moves on together with its fork sliding a sliding clutch into a gear and you have a gear shifted. If you in that position try moving the shift lever to a side it wouldn't go since the bottom end of the lever isn't against a ditch in another rail. So you can't shift another gear while you already have one shifted in. What you have now seems like you have the ditches in the rails not aligned. So your lever got locked in 1-R rail and can't get into a neighbouring other rail. You need to remove the cab floor and take off the shifter tower. A small stamped rectangular cover with the shift lever sticking off. Just drive the 4 bolts off and pull the lever. You will see the matter through that opening but I suppose fixing the issue may require to dismount the whole top cover of the main box. Nothing special to do that though excepting cleaning the mounting surfaces and applying silicone sealer or a new gasket.

That's one of the reasons people order restoration or do the job themself. And also a reason buying a ready vehicle is in the most cases cheaper than to build it. I think the truth is somewhere in the middle and if you're wise enough you'd be Ok.

I always count he served as a Navy not as intelligence...

Keith, many thanks for the sizes and especially for the numbers. I made a quick look and it appeared like your info helped a lot to narrow down the search.

I hope someone has the figures handy or just in head. What is a part# for Mack E6-350 4V injector nozzle and its pressure setting? My build sheet points out 736GB259P10 nozzle and holder but I can't track the nozzle #. Close alternatives would also work in my case if any. And the same interst on EM-6 300 4V.

I also like the idea of checking the hub position by observing relation of the drum to the shoes. The spacers/washers were definitely used to make correct hub fit. Too probably there were different styles of hubs used with that axle housing and there was a need of spacers in some wariations. I once also met something like your situation when changed bearings on a MH-model. The axles were Mack on airride so I supposed they were 38000lbs. The hubs were spokes to fit 24.5 rims with Mack script cast on them. The bearings were 582/572 with 563/567 as it supposed to be for Mack axle of the spoken axle. But the seal was NOT 4-1/2 x 5-3/4 as it typically is (and should be) but 4-5/8x6. There were spacer sleeves pressed onto the spindle shoulder to increase the OD from 4-1/2 and I would expect that as a home made conversion. But the hubs were bored to 6 inch not 5-3/4. I too doubt someone machined the hubs for larger OD seals but who knows.

That's how it seems to me either. Suggestion could be it was marketing thing also. When a new model was introduced the manufacturer wanted attention of potential buyers. So put something new in the line of things people got already used to.

Interesting. In Europe Renault offered only 390, 430, 470, than 440 and 480 hp E7's. 390, 430 and 470 (I belive) all had in-line injection pump. And 440 with 480 were PLD section E-Tech.

That tank setup is indeed an interesting set of pieces to tinker with. A wide field to apply engeneering of different kinds. Wonder what the tanks used to cool off the intercoolers? Did they have a large water tank too? Or a radiator to cool the water as some vehicles utilizes? That crack in the base sucks. I have no idea on how the part is avalible from Mack and how costy but one of my thoughts is on custom casting. Not really difficult shape to reproduce on my mind and too possibly you could play with properties of the alloy to improve the performance. I doubt Mack used space technologies for a road truck engine part. Another simple (but no doubt poor) idea is weld the crack. I had a funny case when I once drove in to a muffler making shop for some reason and found out they offered exhaust manifold welds. I got surprized and asked a guy on could they fix a cast iron part. He looked under the hood and said no problem just 500 Rubles (nearly $20 those days). I said Ok and was going to look on what he would do. The guy came back with a wire welder and applied a 5 cm of seam. Said that's all done. To my honest question of would that work (???) he answered they gave 12 month guarantee. I gave him 500 and went in doubts. Funny thing the weld got cracked after a year and two weeks... What really surprized me than was that sure really poor fix worked for that long on a daily running vehicle with an engine which manifolds had tendency to crack

Thanks. I do belive 14 inch would work fine for 445's. But have worries on good fit of 385 on them. If you have a minute check out the blue truck. No rush with that.

Welcome to BMT! Plenty of "nuts", I mean truck nuts are here. I personally have a R-model for fun. Cruise it from time to time when the weather's good and don't see anything wrong with that. Also I'm pretty sure a man should not be selfish. If you have fun it's good when you also give some fun to your neighbours. Ha-ha Vlad

The 5.55 is a figure I also came along. Those are installed in the DMM I accuired a few years back. Unfortunately I haven't been able to do much with the truck. The cab was removed for transportation (not by me) ans some damage to air lines and other small stuff was done. Also the bab itself needs some fix and paint so it seems as a shame to put it back on the chassis in a shape it currently is in. The truck is equipped with EM6-285 and T2060 which has the same hi range ratios as T2070 or T2080. BTW DMM has 445/65 at the front and I could found wide Budd wheels to fit the same type of tyres to the rears. So gonna be a hot looking unit when it's done. A question - do you have an idea on the width of the front rims both of your RD and DM have? I'm curious on what size would work for 385/65? It's very common tyre size in Euroope for the most trailers which have 3 axles at the rear and ride on 6 such wheels. Also many tractors have them at the steer axle. But they all mounts on "Budd" style wheels. I type it this way since European wheels have different bolt pattern, actually larger stud circle so those wheels don't seem correctly called Budds. Ok, no matter, those wheels are 11.75 wide and I belive American wheels of that width don't exist.

Unfortunately no. That turbo base is asymmetrical in 3 direction. Has offset to a side and to the rear with turbo flange biased. So ways are a custom weld new part or to find a used one off a Mack. I will add pics of the parts taken off the engine. Was going to but found out I forgot to take them off my phone. What kind of intercoolers that tank setup utilizes? Are they water cooled or air ventilated by a tip turbine or other way?