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Vladislav

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by Vladislav

  1. Wow! You play breaking the rule! The truck turns out much longer noused than on the draw in your portfolio
  2. Where is that cool shade to spend an hour or a half to enjoy?
  3. I rebuilt my old one in a reason of restoration. It also had ancient carbon seal and it still has but I put a new rebuild kit into and had to lap the mating surface of the housing. Turned out Ok, a bit to my surprize.Had to pull the rotary wheel off the shaft and press back on after. Also going to restore a pump for R-model mostly to sandblast and paint and will put new PAI seal in it but that's not today.
  4. Definitely looks like Mack 673 or 711 block to me but with oil/water cooler and turbo it must be something newer than everything installed in L-models. Interesting it has the oil filter mounted off the engine block and this could be one of key points for identification..
  5. O-ho! Sounds like multuple different stamps were involved. Didn't know, thanks, will keep in mind.
  6. Hmm... Difficult to choose the favorite between "in a car" and "in the truck". So I would go for the R-model Nice "DMM in the hills" picture too.
  7. P.S. I see no need in the pump rebuild unless it's leaky or bearings make noise or don't run smooth when you turn the shaft by hand.
  8. There's no source of grease in the pump except the bearings and the cavit in between. What you describes sounds like excess of grease went off the cavit by the reason of heat. But this makes sence only if you heated up the truck for the first time after the pump rebuilt or installation a new one. I passed through rebuild of both my NR-model pump of 1945 and MH one of 1990 and can tell they are pretty much the same (not absolutely). The older one had a gease cup at the top and the newer didn't. My suggestion is if you fill the bearings with modern Lithium grease well enough it would be Ok for no less than 50K miles or more (same matter as wheel bearings) so I see no need in the grease cut to be used. Seems like design of newer MH (and R-model) pump was based on the same theory so no gease up during the service life at all.
  9. Cool looking truck! Worth to point out I started looking for RH steering wheel in the pic when saw it at the first time being in doubt on the correct truck location written Welcome to the forum! Vlad
  10. Ok, got it. Thanks for clarification. Just thought R-model cab must mean everything as in a R-model
  11. It would if you speed up the truck fast enough
  12. Usually some holes in the shifter housing get worn where axles pass them through. In fact it could be required (or might worth) to remove all the shifter (bolted to the cab doghouse) and revise all the joints. I personally would be likely to get just a used spare shifter assembly to revise and have as a spare but seems not easy to put your hand on one. I mean finding a perfect cond shifter is a hen's tooth entertainment To figure the truck has operational reverse or not you can use someone's help. Put the guy in the cab and show how to put the lewer into the reverse. Than get yourself near the linkage (being sitting on the frame rails or so) and try to force the shifter on the top cover of tranny to end up the way it would go when the helper operates the lever in the cab. Than tell him to try releasaing the clutch and see the truck moving or not. Pretty sure extreme caution must be provided during such actions including plan B instructions to the helper if anything would go out of line..
  13. In fact you should end up with what a typical 12V starting truck has. Just put 12V starter and organize batt cables to be supplied with 12V from the batteries. If you already have 4 batts connect them the way Back in Black described (I would do that). If you currently have 2 batteries left them alone and isolate or remove the cables to the other side (where you had 2 other batts for 24V) and you will be fine in the most cases to start maybe excepting really cold temps. In fact more batteries with more capacity is more chances for easy start. The alternator you put its 12V straight to charge 12V connected batts and forget about transformer and other things. Also connect the rest of truck electric to the setup as long as it's 12V and you have 12V at starting/charging. There could be another way of keeping 24V starter in place with 12V alternator and no transformer if you add series/parallel switch as it was done on earlier trucks such as B-models etc. But seems much better to use 12V starter if such option for a E9 is avalible.
  14. No heater in the truck at all ??
  15. The truck on the pic looks as a single axle and Kevin told about tandems. So I hope those were different matters. Cutting up a B-615 would be big shame.
  16. Ridgeway is an animal. I wouldn't say about the MIG but worth all the copters on my taste.
  17. Another idea - you might try contacting vintagewiringofmaine for a advice. The guy makes new harnesses and have quite an impressive list of Mack sets he's offering (probably made in the past). I personally couldn't get any luck contacting him when wanted to order a custom harness but you might be more successfull than me. Corona evidence made some folks less busy with current affairs and more leaned toward conversations.
  18. Thanks Mike. I never payed attention to the fact thinking the 1st generation was assembled at Hayward only. But this above discussion put more questions to me than answers. Now the things are clear.
  19. The threadle valve - now your pictures brings my memories back. What we did was cutting off the nuts from below the floor (seen on your pictures) and remove the valve assembly downwards. Had to disconnect air lines off it so draw a scheme and marked the lines. After the assembly got on a bench we cut or turn loose 3 bolts which connected upper part (with the plunger - tappet) to the brake valve. Hitted the plunger both ends with a hammer, got it free, sanded, greased, put back in. And than assembled everything back together using new hardware. At the time we also cut the rest of bolts which connected all the pedal plate to the floor. So I was able to sandblast and paint the plate and two pedals in a hope to prolongate their good days. The big relay - of what i recall we had an issue with power supply in the cab. Turned out there was a big wire which went from below the cab and supposed to power up the fuse panel and it had no voltage. So we reconnect it elsewhere or revised its power sourse or something else, not ready to tell now. The point I wanted to let you know there should be one big wire below or behind the dash at the passenger side which supplys everything in the cab. So it would or could be a point you use checking out electric functioning. Sorry no advice on sourcing the air line connector (manifold?) Excepting looking for good used one or fabricating in a machine shop.
  20. That all is very good written. I have a similar point of view. Good is when people understand the matter of things. Actually it seems that not many do.
  21. RS/L 600 Value-Liner continued as was. RS/L700 discontinued before the date. The whole cylinder head castings of V8 engine were completely different since they conteined 2 valves instead of 4. I suppose they had a similar mounting pattern as E9 regardless less cylinder bore. At least something like that was posted on here in the past. But actually the heads on 865/866 represented different shape at the top and carried smaller covers.
  22. Thank you for the answer. Now I got a proof of knowing the most things right. But now is my next question - where was Mack Superliner produced from 1981 to 1985 and using which frame rails?
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