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Vladislav

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by Vladislav

  1. Hmm... What is that wig-wag-thingy supposed to be doing?
  2. Thanks for educating me on the Mack engine F-mod. Will keep in mind. As of clairvoyants it seems easy to recognize such a person by a big shed in his back yard full of old spares
  3. Good progress! Looks like we'll see her running by her own power soon
  4. It doesn't sound as a nice story to wish anyone to pass through. But brings hopes for smooth turn out. And no one would argue at the moment that purchasing of the spare engine was a wise decition. Carl, are both ENF510 and 510A have double spark plug heads?
  5. Definitely. Shoes could wore the drum and make a step near its edge. You pull the hub off and the drum hits against the shoes by it. Pretty common case when removing any brake drum. Try doing as adviced above and you will be probably fine. At least that's the 1st thing you should do at the moment.
  6. The fuel lines could be different themself where attach to delivery valves. They look so but I haven't checked. So could be interchengable either. The firing order is definitely the same since it's predicted by the engine operation. Another thing I'm not sure about is the firing point. Different pumps may have different initial angle since they have different design. But may have it similar. Worth to check out the data for the similar engine but equipped with the other style of the pump.
  7. Looks like she may be needing help to put her left leg back into normal position.
  8. Nice looking R-model. Would be definitely an alternative for your Harley after putting some care to the look. Have fun! Vlad
  9. Those are real eye catchers! Uggh, I mean the pictures. And I also like the Mercedes.
  10. Thank you. I probably saw this chat before. Or its clone. Unfortunately it doesn't look trusty enough. First of all I don't see my engine there although it's pretty common E6-350 4V. The table conteins EF-350 which is the most probably a missprint since I too doubt EF engine model by Mack ever existed. Another smoky point is there're plenty of strange Mack engines showed in the table. Such as EN7-350, EM5-250, E6-200. And at the same time you don't see such typical engine like E9-500 there.
  11. Great to see you're progressing! Turns out nice. And the only thing you need... is just continue doing the job the way you do Wish you having enough of time and $$$ for.
  12. Great posts and photo indeed. Really interesting to read stories from earlier times.
  13. I had such experience with only difference it was supply nipple and it was Ambac pump. Got luck hammering a 12-edged bit (like Allen bit but with twice more edges) into the restover of the fitting and drove it off. My issue was finding another suitable fitting with apropriate thread since I was in 2000 km from my shop. Ended up using something off a certain airline to put into the pump and a certain fitting which sticked off a fuel tank (but was abandoned in the previouse years) to be used in the air line instead. But that's another story. Speaking the injection pump if that's a Mack engine you only need to remove the bolts which attach it to the engine block, a rear support bracket and sure all pipes/cables. The coupling has a keyed slot (different styles during the ears) so you will be able to get the injection timing almost where it previousely was without special procedures. To my mind there could be small nuances relating to your particular pump vintage/style. And as long as B-model is very common truck for our members on here someone may tell you more about that than me. So too worth posting a few photos of the engine compartment and the pump setup for better identifying. Vlad
  14. Seed, pretty imteresting to hear. I would like to bother you later a little bit, will send you PM. I like those big Renaults with air suspended cab and flat floor and tried to learn the design of their Australian version for a long while.
  15. When I just need to start one of my Mack trucks, after long time in the most cases, it's enough to attach two 75-90 Ah batteries. It works for warm temps and for in-line engines, I just don't have any trucks with V8. You can spin electric starter for a total of couple of minutes before they show low down. Sure if you're going to use the truck for work it's better to put larger batteries. The air issues usually go off after finding and plumbing air leaks. But if they wouldn't you're in a need of investigation of the air brake components. Mostly valves and air line lay out. If you didn't do that work before it may require a bit of education. Once I got in such situation I googled "truck air brakes" and found a lot of articles with detailed description of the whole system operation and each valve design. Spent a couple of evenings reading and than figured the matter of the issues in less than a coule of hours. Had a few valves revised (freed up/cleaned) and a few air lines to swap.
  16. Seeing that tank on the lowboy I expect the story may be for not public posting. And from where I'm sitting it more looks like she's pulling for Australia One great looking super dog, no doubt
  17. Brocky, I belive so. We discussed the frame matter a few times and the turn out was every Mack built in Australia (and probably in NZ too but I'm not sure at the moment) used Eastern R-model frame rails. It is easy to see on pics with the bonnets/hoods open. R-model has quite distinguishing shape of the front portion of the rails so easy to recognize. As long as I remember Superliners used heavier (taller) R700 rails. I have no idea on were standart R-600 (9 inch) rails took place but seems too possibly. Pics show R's, RW, Valueliners both in-line and V8 and also F-models utilized those rails. Adding the point Aussie F-models were marked FR the matter gets a look of making sence. I should admit though all that doesn't relate to Renault-generic Macks. Definitly Aussie Mack Magnums used European wheels what means European hubs. So I'm about almost sure Magnums were complete Renault chassis/cabs.
  18. The same truck model in the US would be called MB. Your mark MBR means it's a MB built using R-model chassis as the most every Mack truck built in Australia was. So actually I expect finding a typical R-model chassis with typical (one of) in-line 6 cyl Mack engine (if it's a Mack engine) with a MB-model cab fitted on. I doubt it would be easy to find info on the particular model (but too possibly if someone in your country has a manual) but quite easy to find info on R-model chassis components and Mack engine. I'm pretty sure if you post some basic views of the engine and the chassis a lot of members on the forum would determine their kind and narrow down the search on the info sources. Vlad
  19. Keith, sounds like you have good progress on the truck. Although all those little odds and ands bring pleasure when this or that issue is fixed but they take time. And bad thing is they in many cases take time off major projects. Bob, glad to hear you stocked a set of doors for your DM. I wouldn't say "Have a ball with them" (sorry, couldn't resist) but advise you to bring those doors to a body/paint shop and ask to revise them and paint the color the truck is supposed to be in. Actually it's a sufficient part of job but doesn't require disturbing the truck. When the doors are ready you will fit them on the cab and the next step may be the hood. I made that thing with doors on my R-model. Found a good pair, parted out, brang to a paint guy, chose the color, payed for the job and brang ready doors back home. Than tinkered with each of them during a few weekends. When all the glass was installed, new chromed handles fitted and mirror arms polished up, I asked a couple of guys for a help and we installed ready doors onto the truck. So I have two beautifully done doors on my R-model since. For almost 6 years to the moment. Have to admit though about nothing beside those doors
  20. Too probably. And too possibly it could be fixed when on a floor and having a time frame for the work.
  21. Not that bad too. But a good point. The DMM was purchased already with no mirrors and arms. So I kept my eye for any and didn't miss a chance to purchase a complete DM cab off a mixer truck which was parted out locally. BTW the truck was originally imported by that same Turkish company. The arms were on the cab and complete but painted black steel not SS. So I continued to keep my eye (actually I keep it for any Mack related stuff on a constant basis). Another ocassion was also DM, dump truck that time. Quite late production, the paperwork was marked as 2004 but I doubt they were in production that late. The truck was for sale but far away and my pockets were also far away from making purchase at the time. Big issue was the rear bogie was completely ruined so the truck was offered standing on 6 wooden blocks (and in 2000km from me). Turned out another person who was locally to the place made fast purchase. But it followed to very fast parting out and further really fast scrapping. I think I posted that story in the past, it was a couple years back. Unfortunately I can not boast of I was right in time to the deal. But grabbed a bit of stuff from there. Purchased two solid doors, two gray seats, two battery boxes and a complete SS set of the mirror brackets. So both my DM and DMM are "armed"
  22. Not that bad overhere. I think it would cost me nearly $150 US to revise the pump in a friendy shop together with recalibration. If new plungers are needed it would definitely be another deal
  23. Thanks for sharing. Great reference pics for my resto project. You can seldom see an untouched truck.
  24. Freed up two plungers in the pump to make the rack moving, started the engine. Tinkered with slack adjusters and air lines a bit and got her running. Than washed all fleas off the hood and the cab.
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