Vladislav

Would be interesting to learn how that temp resistant paint survives. Looks cool as it is now!

My feeling is studying Farsi is more efficient for brain exercising but I think in your case the book would work. BTW the language it is written in is very reach. Much more complicated reading for me than BMT site.

For those costs you may purchase a piece of brass hexagonal stock, cut into portions, drill holes and tap threads in them making nuts. I guess that's one day job maximum if you do that yourself. I'm also not sure if brass or copper is hard enough for that application if not it means those nuts are steel copper plated. If so stainless is the way indeed. A care must be taken though since stainless hardware easily catches up together when overtorqued just a little. So grease or another media should be applied on threads for preventing cold weld. And one more point. If you purchase common 18-8 or 316 SS hardware they're not similar strong as grade 8 hardware. It's not stated exactly in characteristics (no standard probably) but as I read somewhere they're close to grade 5 for strength. So could be used in many applications. And if you are not sure SS nuts are strong enough for the exhaust manifold (I don't know) higher or taller SS nuts might be found.

Of what I noted for other Mack engines (of the era) bearing shells have numbers stamped for each shell. And the numbers are usually different due to one shell may have a hole and the other wouldn't. But what I was going to note parts list point a number for a two shells set. And that number doesn't duplicate any of the shell numbers.

Wszystkiego najlepszego dla projecta!

Wow! Randy, friend... I see Hellertown courses of Russian are doing better than my Farsi exersizes, fine! The only point I'm Vladislav not Vladimir. Vladimir... is another guy Winfall women are very appretiated

Many thanks folks! Nice to hear so many friendly voices! Had relatively common day since it was in the middle of a week, Visited my parents on the day after (today). And going to party on the weekend a little. Funny and uncommon thing we got good amount of snow in the last couple of days after about a week of nearly T-shirt weather. So not the perfect time for barbecuing too.

Mabe that was something not really heavy?

Something was cut "a bit" more than that could be. What doesn't really surprize in an old truck. And putting two brake disks is an improvement. Since you have two sets of internal pins in action as the result. I also noted that the intermediate plate which you fit between two clutch disks I had in my truck was notably thinner than one in a used clutch set I bought ocassionally. Very notable difference, something like 9/16 compared to 3/4. Would hardly influence the pressure plate adjustment position and clutch brake travel.

Yes, factory parts.

Ok, I don't see hard matters to disagree. And I didn't have painful pinky but you had.

The clutch brakes exist in different thicknesses. The reason I belive is to compensate the flywheel cut off and possibly cut on the tranny housing where it gets onto either. But I have no idea on how to calculate the excees of the thickness. And those I bought +3/8" were still thin for my cases

The trunnion cap could be for oil in those days. At least my 1945 trunnion was made that way. Sure you can use greese in that spot too and I suggest it's only better. Especially if the seal of the spring seat over the trunnion bar is bad which is common. Later Macks had grease nipple and a pressure release nipple at the other side. What is on your picture more looks like a breather. But if so there should be a filling plug. And my setup had the plug exactly in that place. Central bolt - almost as Paul said. Your's look generally Ok. That top end has a nut attached to it, you can see it in that cavit if remove all derbits from there. Strange at one side the bolt is slightly offset, But I think it's not bad, just the holes in the leaves are a bit large. Or you will soon learn by noting leaves travel if the bolt is broken and than take the spring pack apart. Which I guess is not a job you really lust to do without hard reason. The condition of the trunnion spindels is very questional where the spring seats spin on it. Worth to check out at least for knowing the situation. You need to jack the axles for that or just yard drive with the steering wheels maxed out to the left or right and ask anybody to look at the rear bogie on possible shift of springs against the trunnion bar.

I made that alone. Attached a can of fuel higher than the pump inlet. So the stream was forced by gravity. Very sharp way of setting, a pump shop calibrates plungers that way. But care and attention is needed when removing the delivery valve. And sure a piece of old fuel line.

Macungie is overkill in emotions. Dutch show multiplied by twenty

Too probably. But isn't that right side a home made part fabricated of a piece of U-channel?

Strange. I'm pretty sure the steering column fitment to the cab dash support plank is almost similar (the same) in DM and R-model cabs. And the door position too. Driver seat is the same mounting either so I can't imagine the distane between the wheel and the vent window differs anyhow. If only the offset cab allows better look to the left side for anything nice or desirable so the driver leans against that bad spoken piece of glass.

Glad to hear the problem is solved. That old valve at the right of the picture - can't you take it apart and check the inside out? There must be a sort of spring and a plunger/ball/a diaphragm which could be bad.

Interesting. Thank you for explanations. A plan is to take the governor apart to sandblast and paint the housing. But I don't know if I can do that and keep the key mech parts together to not loose settings. Or set them back in. Another task was to increase the RPM's up to 2300 since that's a hobby truck and I'd like to rev it up between shiftings sometimes. I asked the pump guy on my desires but he explained the matters only in general. He's not a specialist in Mack pumps/governors and I'm pretty sure there are neither of them in all the country. But he's very experienced fuel tech and said he could do the job if the settings are known. But they are not.

Ok, so actually it turns out the weights try to pull the fuel rack back but you add pre-load to the spring just by your foot moving the linkage further up?

Yes, now I remember that dowel. That time I didn't reset/check the timing. Just needed to get the truck yard driving (actually to take it off the street into my property. One plunger got stuck and I couldn't get it free until took the pump off the engine.

Yes, I see. And I have that small cover removed from my pump at the moment. And saw that srew, I remember it. Just can't imagine how physically a srew which limits linkage that is supposed to move the rack can affect the rev limiting device. If you sure that is that way and the matter is difficult to explain I can take this on trust and just experiment with the screw. Bad thing I didn't know that when the pump was on a test bench. Much easier to check than on a truck.

Yes, you do Jojo. Thank you. I once took Robert Bosch pump off an engine. But that was E6 (or EM6) not E7. As I remember I didn't take the front engine cover off (and that small cover on it either).

Some good reading before the sleep. No kidding

Are you sue that's high RPM stop? Much more seemed as just a limiter for the rack travel. Top RPM's are limited by that rotating weights setup. Can its operation be corrected just by a set screw in the throttle drive? Yes, I'm talking about Ambac PLM at the moment, as on the picture. Had been to a pump shop a couple days ago, they reassembled and calibrated my pump. But the guy said he had no exact idea on how to correct the governor settings.