Vladislav

Yup. Or just cross ropes. I mean for instance a steel (SS or galvanized) cord put from front lower to back upper corners with screw tie ups incorporated. A couple to each side and a pair crossing each other at the back end. Sorry I'm blind posting the advice, can't see the pics.

No!!! Alu fronts correspond with the alu tanks. And the rears are asking to complete the line. If the truck has tandems they could be different than the front. Or you can paint the fronts white and the tanks either. But you'd get the look of more like a fridge than a fashioned highway truck.

Welcomer to the forum! I have a couple of cents to toss in the ring regarding your ideas. 1st there was a guy on the forum who added airbags to the stock front axle of his 2nd generation Superliner. As long as I remember all 3 leaves rested in place and the bags were put in between the axle beam and bottom sides of the frame rails. The 2nd is I have a MH-model which normally (to my understanding) must have 3 leaves in each front spring as your truck. But that truck has only two leaves. I haven't checked the thicknesses yet so keep wondering of if springs of Vision-model (2 leaves) were used or just the 3rd leaf removed. But I have the truck driven for about 1600km when moved it to my place and found nothing extraordinar in riding. Ok, a cherry on the top of the cake - front shocks were not taking place there at all. Vlad

And Tom, if you're going to keep the Mack... Alloy rear wheels are needed to take place. Those white steel ones conflict with the fronts about the look.

Yeah, Joey must be very glad. I had no doubt honestly

I may be should not comment in this thread at all. And actually I don't do. Partially following Paul's advice and partially not wanting to share my point of view since it could be biased at least by the reason of having it from different environment. But I want to addmit I'm interested in learning what others suggest on the subject and have respect to their minds since sure they have reasons to have that mind. One point I want to share since it was mentioned on here and seems worth to aknowledge. Regarding christians. Official Iranian regime, at least in the state it was in two weeks ago allowed three religions in the country officially: muslim, christian and zoroastrian.

Ok, now probably that shamy nest is covered with snowflakes.

Wonder what was the origin of its body? Thick steel put together with rivets. Looks very massive and steady overall.

When I was fixing that setup I brought the shaft to machine shop and they cut the ends with lathe. Barely could remove the rust completely since there are threads for flange nuts at the ends and you can't make the shaft OD less than the threads since the saddles wouldn't pass the threaded portions. Than for repairing the saddles, actually - brass bushings (those were bronze originally) I had to purchase a piece of brass round stock about 100mm/4" OD and 400mm/16" long. Which cost some $$. And than a lathe man cut four bushings out of it to the size of the machined shaft. Also you need seals installed into the saddles at the inner side and there are wear rings pressed onto the shaft the seals work against. Those were rusty too which was the initial reason of all the damage. So I had to fabricate them either. I gave them to halvanic shop and they were plated chrome to survive long. So all in all that was quite a story.

Or a straight round drift or a screwdriver to put into the washer hole but deep for washer thickness only. Than try to work as a lever, possibly hitting the tool by hammer at its side.

A drill bit to cut its blades into and try to move?

This is what that looked like back in the day.

Those brearings were also grease filled. At least that's what I have in my NR-model of 1945. Jack shaft end caps (removable flanges) have extra seals fit inside which separate ends of the axle housing tubes from the bearings cavity and gear oil can't go there.

Definitely an old Mack rear bogie. 10 bolt carrier mounting pattern. Off an L-model or early B-model. Had those "elephant ears" attached to the chassis and the trunnion brackets attached to them. By the bolts which were cut by torch. My guess the only way is to check out junk yards with really old Mack stuff. But those trunnion axles tend to be rusty where they (are supposed to) spin in bronze bushings due to long gone seals. So if even the right setup would be found there are very high chances on need of heavy rebuild of the shaft ends and the bushings. I've done that for my truck.

Tom, it sounds like you just didn't tell that ferrule was made of gold. By its look it could really be. Otherwise I have no idea on the amount of efforts you put into location of it.

Happy B-day Heinz!

I've driven over that bridge in 2018. From Maryland to Virginia Beach. That was a matter of interest. My plan was to reach Keystone Truck and Tractor Museum and when I saw so long bridge on the map I resolved to take that route. Very impressive no doubt. I parked at the view point parking lot near the entry and saw a storm upcoming in the sea. So figured to not wait long. Had no idea on how the crossing could be dangerous. Expected for that to be safe being on a public road. And I was with a rental SUV, not a truck. Hit hard wind when over the bridge but that seemed normal for such a place. Reached the other coast before the rain. Sorry to hear about the crash and the driver's death.

Chassis booklet says 33.94 wide at the rear end and CL/RW2 keeps the same figure. R-models and its family is 33.37 and so on around the figure depending on the thickness of the steel. Good point indeed, CH/CX accomodated 6 in-line engines only. Mack or MP8/Volvo in later years.

I've taken apart and overhauled/restored two water pumps - for Lanova and for E6-350. Provided all the works with basic shop tools. You take the assembly in halves than take the rotor off the shaft using a suitable puller than pull the shaft with both bearings to the outer side (front of the vehice). Than pull the bearings off the shaft and wash them refresh the grease or just renew them. The seals I dealt with were of different styles. Lanova had a carbon setup and my Dutch friend supplied me with NOS repair set. E6 had unified seal which was avalible from PAI and easy to replace. For some reason I've stocked up with a couple more PAI seals. To me it looked like you could upgrade an old pump to that unified seal applying some ingeunity and lathe work.

So those valve seals for 0,5" stems - are they Mack part? Which engine were they supposed to be installed onto originally? I knew that stuff for E7 Joey posted but never heard of seals for 1/2" stems. BTW my Lanova engine also had 1/2" stems both intake and exhaust and it used steel caps put under the stem upper dishes for "shielding" the oil.

You can do that with a corner grinder Accompanied by a caliper for control of evenness and a piece of sand paper put on glass for final finishing of the end. Sure machine shop is much better option!

Those do spread definitely. I ment no spread in CH/CX chassis.

Looks cool and you seldom see a MH with that long wheelbase. Fish belly frame rails is standard equipment for every MH and also 2nd series Superliners. The length of that higher section area is also standard no matter how long overall length of the chassis is. Those frames were made with very artificial front end either and looked like a high engeneering product. They also became the basis for the CL-series but to my surprize and missunderstanding next generations of the chassis (still Mack chassis not Volvo) for CH and CX got simple straight rails even without spread at the front.

Yup. We too hope the time has already come.