Vladislav

As the guys said above, what's wrong with the existing manifold? I don't have the similar part. Those I have have different thermostat housing arrangement. That housing bolts at the front end of the manifold housing. You have horizontal flange for the thermostat cover and those had it vertical. I guess that later part could be adapted to your engine but it would be labour consuming and look unoriginal. So I'd first check out possibilities to fix what you have.

Thank you, read with pleasure. I'd say about the nicest midnight reading. But what disappoints completely and of no less surprize is total absence of mentioning of the connecting rods along the assembly procedures descriptions. They detailed torque ratings for different kinds of the housing end covers, bottom cover, inlet and outlet fittings and many other not very important points. Good thing the tolerances of the piston ring gaps and piston-cylinder gap are mentioned. That would be of use when I rebore my old cylinder block. But no info on the connrod bolts??? The second bulletin doesn't conteing that info either. What the...?? The cracked rod cap issue was resolved. I bought a NOS compressor I could use the block, pistons, rods and a few smaller parts off. I mentioned that in one of my posts above.

Taylor, Many thanks for the suggestions and kind words! Very appreciated. The matter with those bolts seems untypical since the rods are aluminium and the threads are cut in their bodies. So I suppose standard torque ratings are for hardware driven into steel/cast iron. The length of the threads in the particular place is longer since alu is softer. I sure blow on water since might just torque by hand feeling. But the spot is crytical and I'm free on time to collect more info. Measuring the gap or platigageing wouldn't give much adds on since the rod caps are precision milled and in the perfect shape (new). So overtorqueing wouldn't affect the gap. My point the most is to not damage the threads and be sure on no getting loose during the operation. Vlad

I have a couple of questions about these compressors though since my one is in fact not completely assembled at the moment. 1st - what is the torque for the conn rod bolts? I measured it when loosened the rods in the new compressor but the bolts had something looking as a thread lock on the threads so unscrew could be harder than the specs. And should I use any Locktight or other thread lock compound there? I know that wouldn't hurt the deal but better to learn what is prescribed by the manufacturer. And the 2nd. I probably have count the matter but still have a little bit of doubts. I tied to figure out the way the connecting rods oriented. Sure marked all the parts and the old compressor had the rods with the markings (part#) to the drive end (up front). But that NOS one had one rod to the front and another to the rear. And I'm sure nobody opened it before me and the parts were std which meant factory assembly. Also pistons had no arrows pointing any direction for the fittment. So overall it looked like Bendix saw no matter on which way to install pistons and rods. I put them as they were in my original compressor - same way up front. But if anybody may confirm or argue my guess I would like to hear the suggestions.

It turned out a bit more attractive about its look when it had before the rebuild. The mechanical part was not perfect too. Cylinders had rusty caves but what seemed more troubleful was one of the connecting rods having cap bolt holes modyfied (drilled through for a bolt with nut). I could live with a repaired rod but it also had a small crack near the repair. What I definitely didn't want was a broken rod in a compressor somewhere in a middle of a highway. Tried to locate an alu conn rod for Tu-Flo 700 but had almost no luck. Checked out other possibilities and found a NOS compressor locally. Actually that was 700 km from my place but at least in the same country. The compressor had different fittment being a Cummins or Detroit version so I couldn't use it complete nor all of its parts. Good thing the block was found the same so I took it together with pistons and rods avoiding the need of boring the cylinders. Crankshaft was shorter than needed at the drive end so I had to use the original one. Micro caliper shoved minimal to zero wear and that was good. But the size was the 1st repair already so I bought new bearing shells for it. That NOS one was std, of no use there. I also bought a PAI repair set but mostly for gaskets.

The original plan was for the thread to be called "A fancy engine" since I was going to start assembly of a E6 for the R-model. But along figuring on how to free up a big table in the shop I resolved to put together the compressor first since its painted components were taking place on the table for a long while.

Water manifold on your engine (as I expect by the look of the engine) must be a very common part used on many Mack engines of 70's, 80's, 90's and even 2000's years. It's cast iron, consists of two portions, front and rear. I may be having some extras besides my personal needs but you may be lucky finding it in your home country too. Very similar manifolds (or even the same) were used on E7 and E-tech Mack engines mounted on Renault Magnum trucks. Yes, similarity of some Mack engine parts spreads from late 30's up to 2000's years! But also depending on the kind of the issue with the manifold it could be fixed. If there's a crack it can be cooper-soldered or welded or just epoxy-glued for some limited service time (a decade or two )

Wow, cool! Just please let me know when you're able to print a complete Mack Superliner!

Basically there's a cast adaptor housing and a Morse cone shaft end. You fit a coupling cap with internal splines on it and it mates to a splined tube arranged on the engine side. But as I said there are plenty Mack pumps with different settings and I know people tried using a pump from a different engine model (power, year) and got wrong operation. Also for example a few engines used both Ambac and Bosch pumps. And you could swap one with the other having the correct attachments. But Ambac pump sets with 19 degree initial timing angle and Bosch with 23. For which reason? I don't know. As I said there are much more nuances than you would like to explore swapping those pumps.

Ok, I have a few points to mention. I looked over the photo's you posted. The engine in the truck is the most probably not original but later series Maxidyne 237 HP (ETAZ-675 or so, other guys will correct me). My guess is based on presence of the water/oil heat excheanger (cooler) at the left side. B's had turbo engines too but without it. Air intake pipe from the air filter to the turbo looks custom (home)-made. Also someone converted original air operated wiper drive with electric motor. Both facts may be even seen positive. At least the engine is more powerful but very similar to the original ENDT by the look so I wouldn't sorry about the fact. If the truck had 9-speed tranny with two sticks I'm pretty sure you will have quite enough "fun" shifting it. At least in the beginning. The 2nd stick is a splitter. So you start in 2nd low than shift to 2nd high (with that 2nd stick) than you have to get 3rd low so... you shift both main from 2nd to 3rd and the compound from hi to lo. At the same time and without clutch! I may be a bit extra emotional on this since the most American guys who drive a vintage truck count that action as simple as apples. But an avarage European person who's skilled to drive a car with synchronized mechanical box finds himself in a total nightmare when tries shifting that unit. I don't want to spread too extensive description but just mention one more fact. 5th main (the top gear) is right front from you. Not right rear as in a car. So you shift the main stick left front-left rear- right REAR and than right front. That's just an addition to the no-clutch (or double clutch) shifting using two sticks. Ok, further on. I would like to see the housing of your transmission from under the truck. And the front axle beam too. Since I have an interesting guess. At least the axle beam looks familiar to me by what I can see on the front truck's picture. And that's not an axle typical for a B-model. Of one more interesting point is the rear axle ratio. It determines how fast you can go with the truck (using particular transmission and the drive wheels size for sure). If you look at the differential housing of each rear axle at the front area to the right of the propeller shaft flange you could see two data tags (plates) attached with rivets. Clean out the lover ones (but sure better both of them). There's a script "RATIO" on the lower plates and than 3 digits (6,34 or 7,33 or so) are stamped in. My bet you will find 9.02 there. But I may be wrong. Also your truck has cool looking heavy wheel hubs for 20" tube type tyres. The hubs are not typical for North American market, my guess they were a special order for a certain East customer. The rims are split rims made as 3 portions. They must be reliable enough to drive safe if mounted right. Many people may say they're bad thing and nobody wants to work with them for tyre installation. But on my mind they're suitable for self service and are definitely a nice sample of the older days engeneering. So I would keet them if that was my truck. Sure it's yours so you're up to the choice. The tyres on the FR axle look like made in Russia 12.00R20 or 11.00R20.

There was a nice one built by a Russian guy about a decade ago. He asked a few questions on here during the build.

Looks like it is. Some MH's had strange arrangement of the on-chassis brackets installed the front pair onwards and the rear backwards. I'm going to re-equip my MH with Neway off a R-model and it has me scratching my head on why I can't fit all the 4 brackets in similar order.

Good luck! I will keep you on my mind. Best wishes on the safe turn out!

There were plenty of different injection pumps used on Mack engines during a few decades. I mean 6 in-line. In the most cases they were made by Ambac and Robert Bosch. Two types are different types by the design and fit also. Each brand produced I guess about a hundered or more particular pump mods for different Mack (!) engines. With different stroke volume, different max revs limit and different settings in the governor. So if you find out a certain John Deere engine uses a pump of similar style a certain Mack has there are minimal if any chances on full interchangeability.

Looks like Dutch folks were transporting used R-models they sold to Iran. If my memory serves right I saw a pic somewhere with a raw of R-models in similar colors with a script of those trucks were sold in The Netherlands and shipped to Iran.

That was apparently a nice road to drive over with a truck. Wonder how fast could you go there with a semy? 20 or 30km/h? Barely much faster than that camel. Somewhere in the Eastern part of Turkey I suppose by the look of the environment.

Fuel also stayed in the injector lines. Fuel pump supply gallery probably bled off during the parking time but you compensated the loss with the prime pump.

Now I see the windows are dull indeed. And you barely could see the interior. Lighter color might be seen from the outside though. But sure that's a big add on regarding labour.

Thank you. I've a few those knobs lost off RD heaters in 2 or 3 R/RD-model cabs. And fan switches too. New ones check out cheap. So seems worth to stock up before they're NLA. Yes, Volvo part numbers are blind. And long in digits to remember. I have never had a clue on the actual Mack ## meanings. Would be interesting to investigate the matter but difficult due to limited ability of the parts lists.

Well done! Now a small trick is needed on my mind. Just paint this all over into light green!

Good question. I would like to hear the answer too.

Kevin, sorry to bother. Is that RD544500 Red Dot knob fit to the temp control levers (as on the above pic) or on the small blower control lever too?

Possibly. I'm not familiar with Hendrickson walking beams unfortunately besides seeing them on pics.

Brocky, now I see you're well prepeared for one more trip regarding the information. I honestly didn't know so much about the country's attractions. Sorry you couln't find possibility making the plan real. For me the main trouble is the visa indeed. Both Aussie and NZ I suppose. They have requirements similar to UK business for achieving one. And I was not fully able to satisfy them. Right at the moment Russia is under ban getting Aussie visa at all as long as I know due to the known events. I am definitely way far from discussing I like that or not so just wait for better times hoping I will live long enough. Some pennies needed to be collected for a big tour too but it's a task I could rule out I belive. On a positive note I have plenty of interesting unfinished affairs where I am and my own country is huge either along a few neighbouring lands I may travel over. But Australia being a Mack country is on my list as a big point of what I should do in my life.

I had a set of cast axles combined with Neway airride using steel adapters bolted to the spots you normally fit caps for spring end rubber bushings. 1988 R-model. Unfortunately it didn't come to me as a truck just sets of axles and a gearbox. The adapters were welded of thick (7/8" or so) steel plates cut off a sheet. But looked like factory parts way not a home made stuff. They were used to attach the equalizer levers to the axle housings.