Vladislav

Damn, I was going to ask how could you get the engine into the cab?? Ok, I also have a DM but probably have never taken the dog house away. Nice thing about your truck is it's steel dash. At least it's on my taste and I just forgot the fact. And I don't feel guilty now for not paying attention to the thread for a while, read all the pages I missed in the last couple of months. So wishes of good luck on the progress whatever it will be the hood, tranny, steering gear... And sure pictures

Fresh paint is sexy! Keep on going!

I understand about the rivets. In some cases I just draw scatches and order rivets made by lathe. Than press them down in place with an arbour press. Sure headache or a whole entertainment but such sitiations occure once in a year or two so I can live with that. Also your point of slow gearing in a truck allowing to baby the clutch under normal road conditions makes me thinking I may stay with the stock disc. The linings are Mack brand and I hope for them to at least make the job they were designed and made for. And I don't plan carrying any loads the truck was supposed to when was built.

Great stuff, thanks for sharing! That tandem AC (or AP) with trench digger picture is unbelivable. It always impresses me deeply how huge tasks were solved in America by technology of those times.

Nice looking truck and interesting convertion. May I toss a question in the ring? What did you do (if any) with rear engine mounts? I mean did you need to move the transmission forward or it kept its place and the rear of the E9 suited the place where the rear of 285 was? I expect the V8 block to be shorter than the 6-inline.

Thanks. I just have very similar disc for my Lanova engine. Could locate NOS organic linings made in 1945 and a set of original brass rivets. Fitted them on but disliked the way rivets formed their shape being cracked into 3 pieces instead of making smooth funnels. The rivets will probably hold in place well but your setup brings idea of taking a set of ceramic pads off a modern truck clutch disc and fit them onto my vintage one. Don't know how smooth it would operate though. But the engine is 131hp only, not as powerfull as 237.

Definitely. And no cab tilt for access.

So did they "just" rivited ceramic plates of the thickness new organic ones should be taking place and all turned out fine? Interesting convertion.

There's also well-known Dutch trucker singer. He's also not a singer only but a driver. Henk Wijngaard, can be heard on You Tube too. He sings in Dutch the most but you English speakers may understand at least more than I do. https://www.google.com/search?q=het+zwarte+asfalt&sca_esv=02e7e5700812ee97&ei=ZofUZ-D0IJ3TwPAPnpu0qA8&oq=het+zwarte+asphalt&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiEmhldCB6d2FydGUgYXNwaGFsdCoCCAAyCBAAGLADGO8FMggQABiwAxjvBTIIEAAYsAMY7wUyCBAAGLADGO8FMgsQABiABBiwAxiiBEixHlAAWABwAXgAkAEAmAEAoAEAqgEAuAEByAEAmAIBoAIWmAMAiAYBkAYFkgcBMaAHALIHALgHAA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:3db47aa0,vid:kek1E509iOo,st:0

CH has different chassis, straight rails. Same style went further to CX and some Granites I belive. CL frame rails are interchangeable with 2nd generation RW Superliner and MH Ultraliner. If I'm not wrong there were no Ultraliners with tall 700 series rails, at least there were no MH700 series in the production line. RW rails were made both 600 (1/4 thick) and 700 (3/8) but those may have shorter front end to be used in CL since RW in standard configuration doesn't have offset front bumper. And one more tip. I once contacted Global Truck Traders guys in MA and they had quite good and long used CL frame. I'm afraid 3 or so years passed since that but may be worth making a call.

Welcome to the forum! If I remember right there were a few threads posted in the past regarding Mack buses on here. So working with the site search tool may bring some results. There wouldn't be an answer for the exact year. But possibly info which leads to a certan time frame. And yes, we all like to see pictures of old Macks! Vlad

I'm glad to be of service, Jojo. Indeed, my position allows me to see and show things from different angles. So I do that when I can. At the same time I'm not in a centre of the Mack land. And see much less overall from where I'm sitting. But BMT is the perfect window to look through so I'm also thankful to folks who post on here.

Intersting. Please post more if you put your hands on a Magnum some day. I like the look of those high towers with air suspended cab. Here we have many cruising the roads. Renault branded and usualy with variations of E7 - ASET or E-tech. Some older ones had inline-6 Renault engine and a few are still around with E9-520 mechanical or E9-560 V-mac (or so) with hydraulically controlled injection advance. But fewer and fewer every year, due to the costs of spares for a E9. From time to time a desire pops up in my mind to buy one of those but with amounts of iron I already have I stop myself from that. But those trucks are all Renault chassis and a single drive axle in 99% cases. Only once a V8-500 tractor was for sale with tandem drives but way more expensive than I would give for a hobby truck. And once I saw a similar one parked in the street. Even not sure if that was the same rig. Also dark blue in color.

My vote is the third from the top raw left and right images. If anybody is interested in it The original work paint scheme may worth reproducing if has any santimental walue to you. Or may be bringing memories to others and you like to please those folks. There may be a variation of that approach as I finally decided to do with my R-model. I kept original appearance in general (the color and colors of stripes) but modified it and made more complicate. And switched to metallic. That was made after I learned many people knew the truck in its older days but that look appeared too simple and uninteresting to me.

BTW a question. Don't you know any Aussie Magnums (Renault Magnums) were assembled on CH chassis too? Or Renault rails only?

Cool job and interesting truck on my mind. Sorry no help with ABS connections from my side.

BTW the horns assembly is very similar to what was used on B-models fitted onto roof. The difference is the attachment bracket. B-model has it at a side if relate to those on the picture. So the horns are left and right when on a roof.

Hi Harry, Those are original to the truck. And the electric air valve seems too. The horns are Bendix-Westinghouse. And the truck was made in 1944 (or 1943 - shame on me but I'm always forgetting the exact date).

BTW scrapping it you're getting about 150 kg aluminium

The most probably the synchro clutch got worn out. It gets bad together with Hi mating gear. In this case you can't go in Hi but can in Low. Other common issue is worn sliding clutches which shift gears in the main box. Their teeth are square at the ends when they're new and get round when worn. You're difficult to catch the moment to shift with that. The condition of sliding clutches can be observed if you remove the main box top cover which is very easy deal. The synchro issue in the compound box needs taking apart to investigate if the memory serves well.

The shape is very close to heavier early F-model fenders indeed. Difficult to judge by the photos but if so they (and the truck) would be even more interesting. BTW the tyres look quite big. Are they 20 inch rims or larger?

Your welcome! And I finally found the pic. It's my truck. The engine is EY707. It's gasser but not a firetruck so only one distributer. But the block casting is similar to what your baby has. The arrow is where to look at.

Ok, +4C = 39F in Moscow in the recent days. Quite relaxing for January Nice Macks, look like toy trucks observing from the distance.

Hmm... What are those fenders? Just noticed. They don't look like E-model fenders which seemed used on FP's. Actually there are not many sources to check out the correct look. There are a few (one or two?) factory photo's in F-series Mack archive book. And those represent typical E-model fenders. The same style as on Gary Mahan's truck. Looking the chassis number you posted 1010D it's 10th truck made. So possibly special fenders were used. Or just aftermarket convertion (but of quite good quality).

The engine number is stamped to the front from where your two distributers are fitted. There's a cast portion of the block which has a drilling for the injection pump drive shaft when the engine is diesel. The number is stamped into the top surface of its casting. Sorry for late response.