Vladislav

You overestimating me Jojo. I've rebuilt a pump of my ED Lanova engine which I belive is very similar to that END-510 pump. It had a carbon ring combo'ed with rubber bushing and brass support ring. The parts were given to me new by a friend. But looked like some very usual repair kit of the past. The carbon ring works against a lapped spot on the pump housing. Actually a circle over the shaft hole in the housing. Cast iron was hardly pitted in the area so I ground and than lapped it. Cleaned bearings in solvent, put new grease, put new seal in place, assembled everything and spilled a half of glass of antifreeze in. Found it leaking so had to remove the pump wheel (sorry can't remember the correct term for the 2nd day). Found out I put the seal slightly wront. Fixed, reassembled, test filled with anifreeze agan - fine! All that was nearly 8 years ago (and the engine is still not in the truck!). But just the other day I finished restoration of a pump for my R-model (E6-350). It has a unified seal you remove from the housing and put back a new one (both avalible OEM and PAI). In my case it turned out I purchased original Renault part (it came from Europe). Of interesting points I noted 1st that unified seal has also conteined carbon (or ceramic-?) ring in it which just works against a certain internal part not the pump housing. Something like a Stemco hub seal. And the 2nd the overall design of that newer pump (E6 and E7 too) is very close to what Mack used in 40's and 50's. Even the gasket is the same. And as it looked to me you could cut the central hole in the old housing so it would be possible to fit that modern seal in it. Sure with a lathe. I just didn't have need already otherwise that might be a way to go.

You need to remove (by a puller) a belt pulley from one side of the shaft and than the pumping wheel from the other. After that the rebuild is a carbon seal and two bearings.

Sorry to hear. Of possible options which are seen to me is 12.00R24 tube type tyres made in China (Aeolus, Triangle, West Lake and others) and there were also Bridgestone brand 24's made in Turkey. Google search will help you. I don't know if your country is in EU, if so I'd ask Dutch guys. I know those tyres were avalible to purchase in NL a few years ago, saw them by my eyes.

Sounds like an interesting idea. I personally am not a fan of relocated fuel tanks as it takes away trucks originality. But that's a matter of taste and the owner's decission. We sure like to add something "from ourselves" to make our job special but my approach is modifying removable items keeping possibility to get back to the original shape if ever wanted. The idea of using bottoms of factory tanks for tool boxes worth considering indeed. SS wrap around with contrast painted bottoms would look cool. And SS requires less care in the future with less need in refreshening polishing in relation to alu. What also gets on my mind is use of diamond plate SS to correspond with the style of tanks. And what is the most important point I was going to note you should separate SS skin (or alu for the same matter) from steel tank bottoms to avoid halvanic corrosion which occures in the contact areas of SS with common steel really hard. So my way would be sandblast/paint bottoms, bend new SS skins of diamond plate sheet (a hard to bend stuff!),wrap it over insulating the mating areas with rubber stripe of paper gasked with liquid seal or poly film you apply on car panels to prevent stone chips and attach the skin by screws or bolts or blind rivets. No weld between steel and SS if you don't want to see rust leaking out from the seam after every rain or wash for the rest of the service life. Back to the original matter. I don't understand your plan completely so far but if I were you doing something like that I would use a set of factory square fuel tanks as actual tanks, maybe removed to the back for better weight distribution and a set of the modified tanks with SS skins as tool boxes installed in stock places with stock step weld ins. Right on the factory tank brackets. Than of color combo's you may paint both complete actual tanks and "false" tanks bottoms into chassis color having bare SS skins at the front. Or for example... Ok, say actual tank's skins into the chassis color with bottoms of all tanks into another color such as a cab or wheel hubs or what else. With bare SS skins at the front. Or all bottoms into the chassis color with front bare SS skins and rear black skins or cab color skins or so on.

Depending on the style of the junction you can (or can not?) separate one shaft unit from the assembly to change it in the truck. And keep the 2nd one for the future. Usually those "shaft units" are hold in the cab wall by a nut attached at the outer side. You drive it off and remove the unit inside the cab. If it's reattachable from the linkage you need access to that area only. If not you would need to take the most of the dash board apart.

To me the power divider is a sample of absolute engeneering genius. I just can't imagine how a man could desing this kinematic device. And it offers unique functional properties. Being said not being "an automatic lock out divider" but a kind of a differential. I suppose you read the this text in the past. If not it seems very remarkable. Sorry for the quality.

Even I was hoping to bring a truck to Netherland, maybe for half a year, to attend Mack show and a few other events. Seems impossible for the nearest future for me now but who knows? In your case I would put that as a target to participate at least once. I will look for more links, I definitely published 2 or 3 more show overviews.

I bought two sets of new tyres for two of my Macks which are under restoration. I bought both sets in 2012 I made about 2500 km on one of the trucks but the 2nd chassis never catched a road since. A time to swap them out?? Actually and to my understanding that tyre aging "legend" is mostly a legend. Sure supported by tyre producents since they sure are an interested side. As I suppose most worry of a vehicle owner is an old tyre could ocassionally and unexpectedly blow up putting the rig in a ditch or much worse into the opposite lane. Ok, got that. But steadiness of a tyre is predicted by the cord not the rubber. And as I was taught cracks in rubber are crytical because they allow water, sand or other abrasive fractures to reach out the cord. And damage it. And that may cause tyre explosion. So as long as you don't have cracks or cuts deep enough reaching the cord there's nothing to worry about. Ok someone can argue that an old tyre is "dry" being get harder and allowing worse friction to the pavement. Agree, possibly. But first how dry rubber could be after 10 years if not exposed to direct sun every day? And we can easily feel its actual friction capabilities just hitting brakes on both dry and wet asphalt and see the result. Again, I agree we may be not that perfect "feelers" to understand real properties perfect. But is that that really important for a hobby truck you drive ocassionally with well amount of common sence and no rush? A racing car or a motorbike is sure another game with different rules. BTW Michelins on my Honda sport-turer do perfect after 12 years of service. I swap them out when the thread gets to the limit but you easily feel very well how motorbike's rubber "hold" accelerating or braking hard on wet highway in a good rainy storm.

I used to see a double U-joint link with an angled steel bracket. But I mostly saw later DM's.

And speaking the particular truck. The inner cam looks in good shape in relation to the outer one. So possibly was swapped not long ago. The peanuts are a questionable mater in the case indeed. I will keep my eye on this thread too, would like to learn the turn out.

Mack put its power divider in production in late 20's. So now that setup is for nearly 100 years in the industry. With about no changes to its design. And been used in such reputable trucks as R, F, B-models... Does all this sound it's a weak spot? Sorry Mark, this comment is more adressed to Jojo.

I may be seen out of the line by the crowd but I don't see really crytical wear on both outer and inner cams. It's there for sure but I'd estimate the condition of the parts as 4 of 5.

That steering shaft adaptor on the steering box looks like was specially designed to clear the turbo tube. A factory part definitely. Don't remember seeing such ones on DM's. At least of 600 series.

You would (very very) doubtly purchase 11.00R24 tyres where you are at. And about anywhere else. That tyre man who offered the option too probably meant 11R24,5 tubeless rubber. On the other hand you will find 12.00R24 tyres in Irealand or in England if look good. They would be China or Turkey made probably but quite useable.

It appears to me I checked tie rod balls of my 1945 Mack and they were heat treated or chrome plated for hardness. Oppositely to modern joints where the ball works against poly inserts those older balls were pre-loaded by steel counter-hemispherical pads. So steel worked by steel and with much higher stress concentration.

That would work indeed if the washer under the lock nut is large enough. Also I'd revise the nut torque after 500-1000 miles since that tubing isn't a perfect match to the arm inner cone and may seat better during "run in" loosening the nut.

Wow, I didn't know your tyres were that bad. Thought they were just old but suitable for yard driving. Now it looks like the time for a new set. Or just keeping the truck on the jack

I belive the ball portion of such the pin is heat treated. So not that easy deal using a machine shop. Could be sure fabricated of a common steel and if the truck is for hobby with low miles that could work. At the same time my suggestion is the middle portion of the body of the pin isn't hard as the ball to not by crusty since it's supposed to withstand hit shocks.

6.14 : 5.13=1.19. About 20% increase. Notably. If you go 50MPH at certain revs you will go 60MPH than. If only the rig would have power enough to go that fast. As as was stated above you get correspondingly sized drop of pulling torque on the wheels.

And that Whispering Giant in the weeds is a treasure even in the shape it is. For parts or being revised. For the best it needs heads and crank shaft caps removed before rust makes its work and some oil or grease applied.

Custom made brass bushing in place of the bearing? Doesn't seem as a big trouble. Only if the pin top OD is not larger than the knuckle hole.

Trouble with swapping a complete axle is a distance between spring U-clamp holes. It's determined by the spacing between the springs on a particular chassis. R-model has its specific size and most if not all R's were fitted with either stud piloted hubs of Daytons. Of what gets on my mind is looking for the later series RD axle which would have same spring spacing but may have hub pilot hubs if produced late enough. Of other options it could be an axle off a CH or Vision. But in that case you need to weld the existing U-clamp holes and drill new ones. Usually spring fit area on a beam is cast wide to be drilled differently and is at the factory for a particular application. I heard people weld and redrill but I'm not sure of how nice the final result could be and that's some amount of labour too. One more point is correspondence of the drag link joint. Older axles usually had a cone pin and newer ones could be cylindrical. Of seamless ways which may be seen on my mind is identifying actual sizes of the bearings fitted in the existing hubs of the truck. Than sitting rifling through spare hub chats looking for a hub piloting hub which uses same bearing fitting. Or more advanced option - figuring all possible bearing combo's you can fit onto your spindles. Than look for a hub piloted hub (any possible to found on the market) which would suit any of the bearings fittable to the spindles. ̷O̷r̷ ̷j̷u̷s̷t̷ ̷n̷o̷t̷ ̷s̷t̷i̷r̷ ̷t̷h̷e̷ ̷p̷o̷t̷ ̷a̷n̷d̷ ̷l̷e̷a̷v̷e̷ ̷t̷h̷e̷ ̷t̷r̷u̷c̷k̷ ̷w̷i̷t̷h̷ ̷i̷t̷s̷ ̷o̷r̷i̷g̷i̷n̷a̷l̷ ̷s̷t̷u̷d̷ ̷p̷i̷l̷o̷t̷e̷d̷ ̷h̷u̷b̷s̷.̷ Vlad

Cool trailer! Will suit someone's prperty pretty fine!

Speaking the original truck its bed covers the chassis from observation. This way it may be actually in poor shape. Sure possibly not. But as I remember the VIN of the truck is a single axle tractor, not a tandem. Chassis mods? BTW was there any starting bid this time?