Vladislav

Valve seat? That's not a valve guide. As I was told in a local shop they use liquid nitrogen for cooling seats. And although valve guides, surface grinding and many other jobs are made by guys the seat installation is done by the chief himself.

Paul, I love ya!.. About every other morning after waking up I remember the words of your father said. Of how wierd that would be... and so on. Than after 10 or 15 more minutes I force myself to stand up I would definitely like to have much more energy for the day since I have tons of plans and ideas on turning stuff over or inside out. But unfortunately I'm short on energy and always was from the times I remember myself. Never liked gym excersizes and preferred to tinker with small stuff. Slowly and patiently. This way I just try my best doing every day as much as I can. And also remember your advice on keeping small steps. About every other time I need to kick myself for a few more extra steps Vlad

My guess is the outside plate is aftermarket (repair-reinforcement). I saw many Superliner chassis and also R-models with Neway and have never seen any arranged that way. The inner plate (spicer) is the most probably factory. To compensate possible use of the inner rail. My 1988 R-model Neway arranged particulary. Single frame rail with two holes for the rod bracket attachment and 1/4" plate at the inside. ...With hard cracking near the bolt holes. So I'm looking for options for a "nice" fix. Probably will also fabricate an outer plate but less in size to look smoother. And I don't plan to carry loads by the truck.

Welcome to the group! The truck looks very nice! I'm pretty sure a little bit of touch up and she'll be a bomb! Vlad

Hi Dave, No, unfortunately no big move along the R-model. Recently I'm focused on my WW2 NR-model which is closer to the finish (I'm even afraid to use this word!). Also had to rebuild the cab and that have turned out into even huger entertainment than the one for the R. I probably should post that job either but short on time so far. The R has the most of engine parts (E6-350) ready to put back together and I hope to provide this job during the upcoming winter. So all in all plenty of playing with parts but still not a moment to post pictures of finished trucks.

What a great look of the roads was in those days! Now the times are different, different rigs. Thanks the great for pictures mate

Congrats on the purchse! The truck looks cool and definitely has plenty of potential! The configuration is my taste's best. If I could chose a B-model to have in collection my top preference would be tandem B-75 with a B-model cab and factory V8 Mack engine! Vlad

Pre-war Mack BG (or BJ or so) was interesting and in restorable condition. At least as it seemed to me by the pics. Sure you can restore the most any truck no matter how hard it was ruined, just depending on the efforts and expences. But particulary that rig is quite rare and of not very complicated design.

Mack changed the crank and other heavy loaded parts when they went to Maxidyne from ENDT673. Which was of Thermodyne family which was introduced to the market in 1938. Much higher torques produced by Maxidyne required much more strength of the engine components. I don't know when Econodyne was put on the scene, probably is was a kind of mod of Maxidyne engines but with more common fuel settings. The difference was mostly achieved by different governing in the injection pump. Thinking about the shapes of the governor inside parts it looked to me like the governor had ability to push fuel rack at low revs so the engine would pull. Ok, I'm not almost sure on the physics but if you want torque, actually - forse, for a vehicle to pull load you need fuel to be burned. There's no magic in the world. So that fuel must be delivered into the cylinders. And if you don't tread the gas pedal hard but the truck pulls well it means fuel is supplied in sufficient quantity some how. To me it seems the governor is making the trick while you hold the go pedal relatively steady. The second big point (mentioned in discussions regarding Maxidyne engines) is the turbo. Definitely if you want to burn fuel you need air. More fuel - more air. So turbo must do its job. It was said Maxidynes had different turbo than Econodynes. Possibly. As of me I'd like to know what was principally different in them and how big that difference was. Since I read someone's posts from time to time when a certain common turbo was installed onto Maxi engine and against expectations of experts of the community the truck gets driving fine. Injectors could be different (and they're different) since the combustion process goes at different revs so optimal spray pattern is different too. Which could be achieved by different crack pressure. There also could be difference in the shape of cams of the pump cam shaft. Initial plunger speed may be different in different engines and the injection stroke may be longer or shorter providing different intensity of combustion. Timing angles are items from the same basket. So when you want a certain engine to be set for a certain specific performance many aspects may be performed.

I'm afraid your count is 5-10 timey wrong. Just ask me how I know

Mack went up to 2 valve E6-350 indeed. But those were not Maxidynes. Low torque curve was sacrificed for higher HP. And a bit higher highway fuel efficiency. I have that kind of engine in a MH of 1984.

Two thumbs up!

Sorry to hear. Not only the trucks are getting older. Hope and wish the fix will work out well.

Keegan, Many thanks for the answer and for the pics! It really surprized, I'd say amazed me that some MH's took place on a production line up to the end of millenium! Who would have thunk! That white V8 with black stripe has very impressive look. And the museum truck is also remarkable having NZ configuration with double steer axles. Sure besides its #1 from the end. Unfortunately it was very difficult for me to get NZ and Aussie visa to catch a plane and come look at the trucks in your neck of the woods. And in the current reality it's about impossible. Hope the world will change to better times.

Thanks for posting the show pictures! Looks like the day was great. That V12 RS is impressive. Wonder how many were built? And it looks like a Big Horn was parked to the right of it, no?

And... I re-read the whole thread - was that MH with V8 really assembled as late as 1999?

Good luck on the progress! We all sure would like to see the final result.

Tom, did you share the story of purchase of the CH? If yes where to look at? I remember your affairs regarding that green International. But almost missed the Mack party.

Thanks for the cool pictures Tom! That very first one... Looked very much like you came to the show in the CH... And than Zina accomponied you driving that blue KW

Two groups of batteries in parallel. Each one conteins two batts in series. If they're 6V two bring twelve V. Almost as Geoff said.

Happy B-lated B-day!

Seeing the picture I was sure for no less than a couple of minutes that's a scale model!

Ok, found much better pic. It was a restored British NM which was sold to Belgium. I took the photo in 2011. Don't know where the truck is now.

Hi Rodders, Looks like you're in the beginning of quite a long story bringing this animal back on the road. I was in the same ball park 15 years ago and still haven't crawled out of the ditch. My project truck is NR not NM though. I have NM too but it's in relatively good and solid shape so I don't tear it apart so far. Speaking the VIN plate you're looking for they seem being made in a few different styles along the production years. More correctly the style was generally the same but they were made of steel (my truck NM-6 of 1944), of zink (the pic of NM-8 in Belgium) and possibly aluminium. Not sure of NM's but I have one off a NO and it's definitely alu. The plate on my truck is in good shape. But strange thing steel gets corrosion no matter the truck is kept in a dry shed. And I was too surprized just recently watching that palate I couldn't read the VIN stamping (!) and a half of other texts. Some good media blast cleaning is needed I belive but that's not so easy task since you may loose the script at all if done wrong. The Jag is series one, right? Vlad

I have two R-model hoods redone to the moment. And discowered plenty of old poor quality repairs in both of them. What I advise you to pay attention to is grinding the base material (the cab wall) mating area to clear solid fiberglass, with no restovers of paint or old filler, and arrange maximum possible overlap. For the patch I suggest you need no less than 30-40mm wide stripe of bare fiberglass to glue onto. Also the grade of degrease and dust remove needs to be a top and well guaranteed mixed components of resin or glue. These simple basic nuances play very big role since quality of the seam is responsible for not only the seam itself but also for paint works and all the followng final assembly works.