Jump to content


Pedigreed Bulldog
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Vladislav

  1. Try checking out this guy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mack-B-model-dump-truck-peterbilt-international-Kenworth-Studebaker-antique/264005462119 He's in your neck of the woods and seems parting out a Cruise.
  2. If the tyres were never exposed to the sun and don't have cracks which could conduct water and sand to the cord I see no worry driving them. Just might worth to refresh steers for cheer up and comfort.
  3. Here are some pics of 17QJ480 as promised. Just needed time to upload them from phone to mail box and than download to 'puter, resize and put on here. Measuring the shoe trace it seemed to me as 120mm of the flat spot but the trace itself was nearly 100mm (4") indeed. I just didn't focuse on the actual trace expecting anything installed on the truck during long service in Russia. No matter, in fact it seemed like 5" wide shoes could work with those drums or 20mm (3/4") cut could be done over the edge.
  4. Forgot to mention I measured the width of the track the shoes traced on the inside and it was nearly 120 mm.
  5. Got lucky today getting to the drums. Also could scratch away some rust with a wire brush and find Mack part#. It's 17QJ480. Also there was a script of something like 27V 176 but difficult to judge for sure and MAX DIA 15120. I will upload a few photos I made a bit later.
  6. Hmm... I will try to check it out tomorrow. The issue is the drums were rusty I suppose they're original to 1988 truck and the hubs were not separated.
  7. There are actually 3 relays. One below the dash. One somewhere under the hood or a cab depending the truck is conventional or cabover and the last (and the largest) is the starter solenoid which carries a double function being both a solenoid to put the gear into the flywheel and a relay to connect starter's power contacts. What I would do is jumpering each one of them. The 2nd one is what to start from since usually it's accessable (mounted on the firewall on R's and CH's) and operates reasonable currents so jumperng it with a screwdriver wouldn't make much fireworks. If the crank starts
  8. Usually power steering equipped vehicles have larger caster angle since it's easier to "fight" the tendency to go straight and manual steering rigs have just light caster. On the other hand it could be the way FA-512 were bored with a light lean but had no caster wedges and once FA-53X were used with them the reason to add the angle to the bores disappeared.
  9. Sounds interesting. Originally I met an issue with my original truck's beam having one king pine boring wore out. Looked for a fix, figured that Stemco tube could be used and even found a machine shop with a mill large enough to work the axle out. But having an extra axle but of heavier rating I resolved using it if it's suitable. That way I played a couple of hours with both of them putting both horizontly and on a side and checking by laser level. Also checked the angles the king pin holes bored to the side (or better to say off the side) and found both beams were similar. Also I remember I
  10. As said above. And from the pics it looks like quite a solid truck.
  11. Rob, I have removed FAW537 axle from my R-model and also had FAW538 off another R-model as a spare. I had to use that spare one for the truck so investigated both of them relating king pin hole angle, straightness and even the weight. And now I can state both of those were almost similar and absolutely symmetric face to back. King pin holes were bored straight from the top of the beam having zero angle to the drive direction. Castor angle establishes by the springs hanged to the chassis rails at a certain angle and also by wedged pads put between the axle beam and springs. So I bet no dif
  12. Easily. My R-model axle beam had its stamping at the front. I type "had" because I removed it from the truck at a certain time. I investigated it through very well before sandblasting and paint and found no reason I couldn't put it backwards installing back on the truck. So you know where to look at. My understanding you will find the stamping or a ground off spot where it was.
  13. Are you sure they're a correct fit? The table tells they're 16.5" ID with 6.25 shoe width. Look like a rear drums to me. Hope I'm wrong.
  14. Looks like I'm late with my input but I would toss it into the basked since it possibly could be of help. The hub style on the red B model in the picture looks very close or even the same as my R-model has. Also alu hub with back side mounted narrow drum. The truck was built in 1988 and the shoe width was 4" as the memory serves. The point of difference is the berings size. I don't know what you have inside the hub but the spindle that fits my hubs is thicker being 2-5/8 for the inner bearing and 1-3/4 for the outer one.
  15. What years and what engines did Mack paint in that color? I really like how it looks.
  16. I add my vote to the request Never knew the original truck belonged to Smith. Interesting.
  17. My bet is not too many people on here has an idea on the meaning of those 3 red letters on the title page of the video. In fact it's Persian script of the name our forum is all about
  18. Great to see the progress! I like the engine look painted that color. Strange thing (nothing strange but an optic illusion) the engine looks greeny in the first pictures but much more to blue where it's already in the chassis.
  19. No. Regular (lighter) series R discontinued in 89 (or even in the late 88?). RD being a heavier mod of an R started from 78 or so and kept the classic round hood with round lights up to 1990 or 1991. Than it (RD not R) purchased new (slopped) hood and stayed in production until 2004. RB is another story.
  20. Seems like you haven't got all the air off the system. Even worn out plungers would build up pressure enough to get the fuel off the realeased nuts on the injector lines. I'd put an electric fuel pump in the line between the tank and the prime pump. Switch it on for half a minute to make good fuel flow in the lines and injection pump body than try cranking with it still on. Usually takes all air away in a matter of seconds and the engine fires up if the rack is in the correct position and the mecanical parts are solid. Vlad
  21. Looks in a really great shape. Besides restored interior and non-rusted rear wall of the cab the frame represents very good condition. Still can't figure the type of the engine it has. Something like a non-intercooled EM6 of 225 or so HP?
  22. Nice looking raw of old Macks. Although they're kept outside it seems like someone have fun owning them. Thanks for sharing.
  • Create New...