Vladislav

Or a straight round drift or a screwdriver to put into the washer hole but deep for washer thickness only. Than try to work as a lever, possibly hitting the tool by hammer at its side.

A drill bit to cut its blades into and try to move?

This is what that looked like back in the day.

Those brearings were also grease filled. At least that's what I have in my NR-model of 1945. Jack shaft end caps (removable flanges) have extra seals fit inside which separate ends of the axle housing tubes from the bearings cavity and gear oil can't go there.

Definitely an old Mack rear bogie. 10 bolt carrier mounting pattern. Off an L-model or early B-model. Had those "elephant ears" attached to the chassis and the trunnion brackets attached to them. By the bolts which were cut by torch. My guess the only way is to check out junk yards with really old Mack stuff. But those trunnion axles tend to be rusty where they (are supposed to) spin in bronze bushings due to long gone seals. So if even the right setup would be found there are very high chances on need of heavy rebuild of the shaft ends and the bushings. I've done that for my truck.

Tom, it sounds like you just didn't tell that ferrule was made of gold. By its look it could really be. Otherwise I have no idea on the amount of efforts you put into location of it.

Happy B-day Heinz!

I've driven over that bridge in 2018. From Maryland to Virginia Beach. That was a matter of interest. My plan was to reach Keystone Truck and Tractor Museum and when I saw so long bridge on the map I resolved to take that route. Very impressive no doubt. I parked at the view point parking lot near the entry and saw a storm upcoming in the sea. So figured to not wait long. Had no idea on how the crossing could be dangerous. Expected for that to be safe being on a public road. And I was with a rental SUV, not a truck. Hit hard wind when over the bridge but that seemed normal for such a place. Reached the other coast before the rain. Sorry to hear about the crash and the driver's death.

Chassis booklet says 33.94 wide at the rear end and CL/RW2 keeps the same figure. R-models and its family is 33.37 and so on around the figure depending on the thickness of the steel. Good point indeed, CH/CX accomodated 6 in-line engines only. Mack or MP8/Volvo in later years.

I've taken apart and overhauled/restored two water pumps - for Lanova and for E6-350. Provided all the works with basic shop tools. You take the assembly in halves than take the rotor off the shaft using a suitable puller than pull the shaft with both bearings to the outer side (front of the vehice). Than pull the bearings off the shaft and wash them refresh the grease or just renew them. The seals I dealt with were of different styles. Lanova had a carbon setup and my Dutch friend supplied me with NOS repair set. E6 had unified seal which was avalible from PAI and easy to replace. For some reason I've stocked up with a couple more PAI seals. To me it looked like you could upgrade an old pump to that unified seal applying some ingeunity and lathe work.

So those valve seals for 0,5" stems - are they Mack part? Which engine were they supposed to be installed onto originally? I knew that stuff for E7 Joey posted but never heard of seals for 1/2" stems. BTW my Lanova engine also had 1/2" stems both intake and exhaust and it used steel caps put under the stem upper dishes for "shielding" the oil.

You can do that with a corner grinder Accompanied by a caliper for control of evenness and a piece of sand paper put on glass for final finishing of the end. Sure machine shop is much better option!

Those do spread definitely. I ment no spread in CH/CX chassis.

Looks cool and you seldom see a MH with that long wheelbase. Fish belly frame rails is standard equipment for every MH and also 2nd series Superliners. The length of that higher section area is also standard no matter how long overall length of the chassis is. Those frames were made with very artificial front end either and looked like a high engeneering product. They also became the basis for the CL-series but to my surprize and missunderstanding next generations of the chassis (still Mack chassis not Volvo) for CH and CX got simple straight rails even without spread at the front.

Yup. We too hope the time has already come.

Interesting information. And funny and pleasant fact about the transmission. The fan looks Ok, some trucks and other vehicles used similar styles which look asymmetrical. But they're sure symmetrical by evenness of pressure applied to blades to have the resulting force pointing the shaft exactly in the center. About the T-stat follow Geoff's explanations. I understand what he means but not able to confirm or argue since don't have time to figure his points right now (actually there's a need to follow the tube arrangement). In your case you might just google "thermostat for B-model" or "thermostat END-673" (basic engine for a B-model diesel truck), look for pictures and than continue looking for its sizes and looking for the particular part on Ebay (they have pics there too for the most time). Speaking the model of the truck it could be seen from different points. What would you count as a model? The 1st case in the chassis. Since it determines what a rig is on my mind. Determining the chassis model you go looking for the chassis number - the stamping on the rail. If you found it you can send it to Mack museum for learning more detail. If you can't find any stampings you determine the chassis model by its look. Relating with photos of different truck. The forum is of help for that. If you associate the truck model with its outer look so relate the look. Yours looks like B-61. There could be variations such as B-62 (gas engine) or B-42 (lighter chassis) etc. All in all you may have a truck in stock factory configuration or factory model with some components swapped or even a truck assembled from parts of multiple different rigs. Determining what it actually is you determine each component. The 1st is the chassis (again) and if you determined it the museum could provide you on the rest and you than relate that with what you have. That's the straight and the easiest way. If that wouldn't work Ok, you are surrounded by the crew of specialists to answer the most of your questions

Here's some info on how the later thermostat is looking. Check out your housing, it's possbly supposed to suit a similar one.

Welcome to the group and that's definitely an interesting find you located! Congrats on the purchase! I'm personaly one of those folks who see no other way of fixing an old rig than restoring it to the original condition but now that's your own truck so your plan, your desire and your elbow grease and pay checks What I would advice is to not start with tearing everything apart but first throughly plan the upcoming actions and than start working with limited amount of certain parts. For example fix the doors than start arranging interior parts. Without disturbing chassis and even not removing the cab. You may also overhaul the pick-up along the components which will stay in place. It happens in many cases that you run out of budget or interest and than unfinished project goes on a back burner or even to scrap. I definitely wish you another perspective and hope to see the end result posted on the forum some day. But planning shedule and divide it to separate steps you could stop at any or correct plans never hurts. Vlad

The thermostat you need is a typical END-673 (B-model engine) part by the looks of the housing. I don't have any to check the size unfortunately. Those are common are off a E6/E7 engines which were used in Renaults either but I'm not sure on similarity. I will look for the sizes of the lattes the other day. And there's a funny thing. When I planned a trip to Turkey in 2023 I asked my Dutch friend (a "specialist for Macks in Europe") on any remarkable trucks. He noted a few (2 or 3) including a B-model parked near a certain restaurant as a decoration. The place was far from that my particular paths so I didn't go checking it. Now it looks like there's no reason visiting that restaurant for me

And regarding your question on the sleeve/piston gap. I don't know if anybody already answered it since some while passed by since you asked. I found a figure of 0.004"-0.007" in a E6 4V book. "Piston to liner clearance - 90 degree from pin axis" printed there. That engine uses almost similar sleeves you purchased. Pistons are not the same but I doubt on notable difference in thermal expansion between the two. 4V could be a little bit hotter providing 350hp so slightly lesser figures could be foreseen in your case. The same for light duty use without hard pulls of heavy loads.

Larry, what kind of the stem seals are you going to use? It's probably just my ignorance but as long as I could figure out Mack installed stem seals starting from E7 engine. I took apart two 4V E6 and there were neither seals. What corresponded with the overhaul manual and parts lists. Same for a couple 2V EM6's which went for stock of used spares yet. I suppose there wouldn't be any wrong installing seals in your engine (but who knows?) Just interesting to learn which part and how you determined its suitability.

As the guys said above, what's wrong with the existing manifold? I don't have the similar part. Those I have have different thermostat housing arrangement. That housing bolts at the front end of the manifold housing. You have horizontal flange for the thermostat cover and those had it vertical. I guess that later part could be adapted to your engine but it would be labour consuming and look unoriginal. So I'd first check out possibilities to fix what you have.

Thank you, read with pleasure. I'd say about the nicest midnight reading. But what disappoints completely and of no less surprize is total absence of mentioning of the connecting rods along the assembly procedures descriptions. They detailed torque ratings for different kinds of the housing end covers, bottom cover, inlet and outlet fittings and many other not very important points. Good thing the tolerances of the piston ring gaps and piston-cylinder gap are mentioned. That would be of use when I rebore my old cylinder block. But no info on the connrod bolts??? The second bulletin doesn't conteing that info either. What the...?? The cracked rod cap issue was resolved. I bought a NOS compressor I could use the block, pistons, rods and a few smaller parts off. I mentioned that in one of my posts above.

Taylor, Many thanks for the suggestions and kind words! Very appreciated. The matter with those bolts seems untypical since the rods are aluminium and the threads are cut in their bodies. So I suppose standard torque ratings are for hardware driven into steel/cast iron. The length of the threads in the particular place is longer since alu is softer. I sure blow on water since might just torque by hand feeling. But the spot is crytical and I'm free on time to collect more info. Measuring the gap or platigageing wouldn't give much adds on since the rod caps are precision milled and in the perfect shape (new). So overtorqueing wouldn't affect the gap. My point the most is to not damage the threads and be sure on no getting loose during the operation. Vlad

I have a couple of questions about these compressors though since my one is in fact not completely assembled at the moment. 1st - what is the torque for the conn rod bolts? I measured it when loosened the rods in the new compressor but the bolts had something looking as a thread lock on the threads so unscrew could be harder than the specs. And should I use any Locktight or other thread lock compound there? I know that wouldn't hurt the deal but better to learn what is prescribed by the manufacturer. And the 2nd. I probably have count the matter but still have a little bit of doubts. I tied to figure out the way the connecting rods oriented. Sure marked all the parts and the old compressor had the rods with the markings (part#) to the drive end (up front). But that NOS one had one rod to the front and another to the rear. And I'm sure nobody opened it before me and the parts were std which meant factory assembly. Also pistons had no arrows pointing any direction for the fittment. So overall it looked like Bendix saw no matter on which way to install pistons and rods. I put them as they were in my original compressor - same way up front. But if anybody may confirm or argue my guess I would like to hear the suggestions.