Vladislav

Jojo, life's good but I haven't understood two simple things. And probably the guy too. First - do you need to disconnect (unscrew) anything under the engine front cover to just remove the pump off the engine? I belive the pump has composite coupling with splines and you just pull if off. Both on E7 and E6. Second. When you set timing you may go two ways. Rotate the pump housing OR rotate a gear under the engine front cover which has 4 bolts. Right? I honestly forgot if the pump is rotatable in its place or has stationary mount.

No, Ambac pump needs 18 degree initial advance. 22 deg is for Bosch. On the same engine!

What pump is this arrangement for? I'm looking for info on how to increase top RPM's of Mabac pump. Currently it is set for 2000RPM.

Did the truck have an off-set cab? I honestly can't imagine a full one part hood made of steel. DM or DMM or RD800 could have steel nose but the engine gets accessed through a baterfly hood shells. Unified fiberglass nose is a different story. And with super singles at the front it was the most probably DM or DMM model. But all this just my guesses.

Ok, no sun - no timing

E6-4V came into production in 1985 if I'm not wrong. And many were equipped with Ambac pumps, Robert Bosch took place closer to 89. Trucks with E6-350 4V were 688 trucks - R688, MR688 etc. Trucks with generally similar EM6-300 4V were 690 trucks - R690, DM690 and so on.

That was interesting note Bob about that big difference in properties of 300 4V compared to 350 4V. I belive 300 4V was EM6 so Maxidyne and E6-350 is Econodyne. But physically they're both almost the same engines. The difference must be in the fuel pump settings and the turbo (if I'm not wrong). So the fact you shared surprizes me a bit. I have both types of engines in my trucks right at the moment. But didn't experienced 300 4V on a highway since it's not road ready.

Did it have the chassis mounted aftercooler? I just wonder if some (late?) U's used that grill and was there the reason having CMCAC?

Thanks the great!

Finally purchased my example of the book today. Looks like plenty of reading in it.

Wow! Many thanks for sharing! I was on a hunt for that number myself. Just wasn't the need of the day. If you spread your honesty a bit more sharing the shocks # that will make my day.

As fjh said just detach the release cable. A trouble may be found if the input shaft got seized in the disc splines or the bearing in the flywheel but those cases are seldom. BTW it worth to apply some grease to the points along the reassembly. Of other things you need to bottle jack the flywheel housing to free up rear engine mounts since they're on the tranny housing (as was mentioned above), detach the shift linkage and the prop shaft. There may/should be some air lines in your case, just common marks on which one goes to and that's all I belive. Ok, a speedo cable may be.

I suspect you don't mean the hub caps and the strap.

Yes, I first fit the tranny and than attached pressure plate bolts through the inspection hole. I did it that way because I didn't have a piloting part (an old input shaft) and also because I did a swap of 15,5 clutch by that same way in my R-model. This way you don't have the friction discs loaded so they're free to allow the input shaft to mate the bearing in the flywheel. All in all I assumed it to me as a hard job, mostly when you finally put pressure plate screws. But could be done. And initially I was adviced this approach on here, on BMT. That clutch in my 1983 (or 82?) Cruiseliner was 14" clutch indeed. The identification is the flywheel for 14" is a deep dish while for 15,5 it's kind of a plate with 4 pedestals. Also the intermediate plate in 14" setup has multiple scuare cut outs over its OD to be corresponded with piloting pins in the flywheel. And 15,5 has four outer lips over it. Both points could be seen through the inspection hole. My story turned out I had to pull the tranny once more after the time I made that post. The matter was wrong setting of the pressure plate. And I couldn't correct it in the truck since the throw out bearing didn't have any travel (since was set wrong). So after remove of the tranny I compressed the pressure plate in an arbour press, found out the set screw was not seised (what I was afraid of) and corrected the settings. Than put everything back onto the truck (forgot which way I fitted the clutch since I may be having a 2" input shaft from another tranny since that time it was in my yard). And when in place I ended setting the bearing travel and ajusted the clutchg brake (which I put new). Of other issues worth mentioning I had that central plate not coming onto the piloting pins in the flywheel when put the parts together at the first time. Found that when the tranny was in place and I drove the pressure plate bolts (through that inspection hole and laying on a ground under the truck. So had to release the bolts and make some wiggling and kicking with a piece of steel stock and a hammer and forgot what else). The transmission in my truck is T1078 5-speed I belive. Very similar to your 6-speed. So I too expect you also having 14" clutch. Bad thing I did I didn't describe the way I solved my issue in that original thread. If so I wouldn't need typing all this now. But as it usually happens current affairs take you off a subject. Vlad

Thanks for suggestions guys. I'm going to be the only driver and I expect no drivers at all for no less than a year yet. Since the truck is currently in parts.

Yup, definitely. Just missed that thread to the moment. Interesting truck BTW. That 1st one with the loader. Tandem B-67 with concave cab and alu nose. The one on the picture above is more a parts set already on my mind.

Welcome to the forum! Indeed you have a rare Mack which (I too hope) will also be nice looking when you add the elbow grease to it in the required amount. As I remember alu nose B67's existed but definitely were very few in number. I don't see much to add to the cutoff/ratio discussion. Indeed as more considerations are put into the subject as less time and money consuming story it will turn into. Ok, one point I haven't heard from the croud so far. It seems worth starting the engine and maybe fix the brakes to the condition for making the truck yard driving. You may find out alot of new info that way. Good luck on the project! Vlad

I'm with you on the approach. Better to have reserve. Especially the conversion doesn't seem worth consuming. I'm just not familiar with ceramic clutches really much. And expect they may have a downside in relation to organic ones too.

Which one?

Couldn't see the strap at first since expected it holding the sleeper to the chassis. Not to the cab LOL As I can see from the pic (I only see that pic above, no access to Facebook), there's a cut off added to the frame overlapping the rails. Wonder is that a B-73/75 or B-615 with short hood but alu radiator? Just a matter of interest though.

Damn, I was going to ask how could you get the engine into the cab?? Ok, I also have a DM but probably have never taken the dog house away. Nice thing about your truck is it's steel dash. At least it's on my taste and I just forgot the fact. And I don't feel guilty now for not paying attention to the thread for a while, read all the pages I missed in the last couple of months. So wishes of good luck on the progress whatever it will be the hood, tranny, steering gear... And sure pictures

Fresh paint is sexy! Keep on going!

I understand about the rivets. In some cases I just draw scatches and order rivets made by lathe. Than press them down in place with an arbour press. Sure headache or a whole entertainment but such sitiations occure once in a year or two so I can live with that. Also your point of slow gearing in a truck allowing to baby the clutch under normal road conditions makes me thinking I may stay with the stock disc. The linings are Mack brand and I hope for them to at least make the job they were designed and made for. And I don't plan carrying any loads the truck was supposed to when was built.

Great stuff, thanks for sharing! That tandem AC (or AP) with trench digger picture is unbelivable. It always impresses me deeply how huge tasks were solved in America by technology of those times.

Nice looking truck and interesting convertion. May I toss a question in the ring? What did you do (if any) with rear engine mounts? I mean did you need to move the transmission forward or it kept its place and the rear of the E9 suited the place where the rear of 285 was? I expect the V8 block to be shorter than the 6-inline.