Full Floater

Got the can changed out no problem. Now everything is working 100% again. That brake is fully releasing now. Which it wasn't before. Thanks again!

Very helpful tips guys, thank you. The boss around the air fitting is round. So I guess that would be standard stroke? All the other cans have round bosses as well. I will be going down to the truck shop today and will purchase a 30/30 can and see how it goes.

It appears that one of my brake chambers is not fully releasing on my 78 RS600L, w/Mack rear ends; and is in need of replacement. Are these just regular type 30 chambers, or are they anything specific being on a Mack?

Selling a 1969 NTC335 Cummins. Serial #679118. Built at the Columbus plant. Unknown mileage. Runs well. Can be seen running in truck. No leaks and no smoke once warmed up. 24v starter, Jakes 15 speed fuller trans. Asking $3000Cad, for the pair. I am located in Canada. They are still in a truck. A 67 Kenworth LW924. Its a parts truck only. No rear ends, bad frame. No title. Will Included the truck at same price or I can pull the engine/trans. Will consider trades. Looking for 11R22.5 tires, R model Mack truck for parts. International S1954's.

I have 4, 6 volt batteries in my 78 R model, that are on their way out along with the cables. I was thinking of converting to 2, group 31, 12 volt batteries to replace the 6 volts. Has anyone done this?

Ok I will phone the nearest pump shop in the a.m as they are closed today, and see if they want to do the job. Spill timed eh.... That's a new one to me and always have wanted to try it....here's my chance!!

Ok so pull the whole pump and have it checked out, ok. If I knew it was the springs, does the entire pump need to be pulled anyways? or can the back part be removed from the main body of the injection pump? Is there anything else I should have done to the pump while its at the injection shop? Its fairly low mileage, 220.000km so im hoping that it does not need a full rebuild

The external springs in the picture are the throttle return springs. They are both new but the horizontal one replaced what was there from the factory, or at least it looked factory. The other one is just an extra one that I put on for good measure, to be sure that this wasn't casing my issue. All it did was make the pedal stiffer. There is defiantly something going on as it hunts at idle and when I accelerate softly, it does it then to. Its like im going down the road and getting on and off the throttle every second or two, but in reality, im holding it as steady as I possibly can. The entire linkage is tight and no play anywhere So should I look at bushings instead of springs?? I have no idea where to start

Ok so im due for new governor springs in my 79 RS600L, with an EM6-300. Its doing the lopey idle thing with a lopey acceleration. I have never done springs before and this is my first Mack. So, what all is involved? I will be having an injection shop do the work but I need to know if I have to remove the entire injection pump or can I get to the springs another way? I don't even know where the springs are... Thanks fella's, Im looking forward to getting this motor that's in excellent shape, running smoothly!!

The 795GB363AP7 works! It hangs up a little bit on the bottom of the dipstick tube, but with a little finessing, it comes out. I can live with that.

Thank you guys. I will put it 80-90 as that's what I have a lot of.

Hi fellas! I am about to change the tranny oil in my 1978 RS600l with a 12 speed. Question is, what viscosity of gear oil do I use? Are any additives worth putting in to? Thanks a bunch, Kevin

What years were the early V8s? What were there issues?

So you're saying that's most likely whats wrong with the factory pump? Would you recommend that I dig into it and revert back to using it? I will if that's a better way.

Good solid info, thanks Terry. Kevin