Full Floater

Totally. I'm pretty sure it was me that was not accurate enough with it

Well I got it to work. Pulse adapter on cyl# 1 injection line and timing light set at 0 degrees, will give a pulse illumination at the crank dampener at the current injection timing. I was illuminating 21-22ish degrees upon initial check. This engine is a 26 degree engine. (this was after spill timing as close as I could, but I felt that it was a little retarded due do some blue exhaust haze at idle and most notable when cold) Shut it off and moved the pump flange counter clockwise a couple times till I got it smack on 26 degrees. No more blue haze. So either I didn't spill time it correctly or the spill timing is not quite as accurate as it could/should be. But Im happy to be able to check and adjust timing, without removing an injection line/delivery valve, as this way is just less invasive and quicker.

Thanks. Ya I have an aux electric lift pump on the supply side of the injection pump (on a manual toggle switch, to use for emergency side of the road priming) and it works great for spill timing. I will try to fiddle with a timing light on it and i'll report back with results.

In search of a better way to set injection timing. I'm working on 2, 237's. Both with Ambac pumps. One with a fresh rebuild pump and another with a used pump swapped from another engine. Both engine data plates read 26 degrees at port closing. I have spilled timed both of them, to as close to 26 degrees as I could manage. Both engines are running good and sounding good. However, both engines smoke quite a bit of blue (unburnt fuel) at an idle, especially when cold. They clear up once i've got my foot into it under load. The injectors are also fresh rebuilds so it's unlikely that the spray pattern is poor. And neither engine uses much oil or has much blow by. So...I figure my spill timing is out a couple degrees, probably retarded. instead of pulling the delivery valves a few more times and messing around rotating the engine with the hard to reach crank pulley on the Western model R's; I would like to try the pulse type/clamp on timing adapter with a strobe light. I have a Snap-on and use it on other model engines, no problem. I haven't tried it yet on the Macks. If I clamp this to #1 injector tube, and read the mark on the crank when illuminated by the probe, should I expect to see the actual injection timing illuminated at an idle speed, or at a certain RPM? I know some engines with an advance mechanism in the pump (like some of the Roosa Master style Stanadyne pumps) require the engine to be at 2000rpm to accurately set timing.

Interesting, thanks. Never heard the theory before on the overspeed/dynatard contributions to their failures. I've never exceeded the 2100 recommended max speed, are rarely reach that, perhaps thats why I have never had one fail. Do the jabobs brakes, have the same effect on them as the dynatards? I have 3 with Jacobs on them

Something that has been on my mind with E6 engines, is the "issue" with the lifters wearing/delaminating/carbide tip falling off, or whatever they do; is I try to use whatever oil has the highest ZDDP content or i'll add a ZDDP additive, in attempt to reduce lifter wear. Not sure if it does anything or not, it probably doesn't. But it makes me feel a little better about it

Thank you fellas.

Aside from a tape measure, from inside of rim to inside of opposite rim, or from some point on the hub, is there any more "accurate" way to align a dayton hub truck at home? I've always been pretty close with a tape, but with todays tire costs, i'd like to do a little better yet.

Old thread, but just to confirm, they need to be adjusted to relief pressure at or before full lock position in either direction, correct?

And is the compressor supposed to "drain" it's oil into the crankcase somewhere, or is it just free floating oil in the entire acc drive? As none of my E6's seem to have an oil drain out of the compressor far as I can tell

Good to know. That helps narrow down what needs replacing.

Old thread here. I have a that happening with one of my E6's. New compressor. It slowly makes fluid in the PS reservoir, it's black, it's engine oil. The filter is new, far as I know it's plumbed correctly. The oil would be coming from the compressor output shaft I guess. Would the failed seal be on the compressor, or the power steering pump?

Well I as able to install 2 shims, 7/8" ID, 1 in either direction of movement in this joint. And that has taken up a majority of the slop. I am happy with the turnout. I would consider this a decent at home fix without having to have anything machined.

Haha.

Oh really? I ordered a gasket kit for it but I do recognize that some situations work better with silicone