harrybarbon

Good observation and yes seems to be a novel way to make it work, i was told by owner that it ran excellently. The air intake is pumping air in and the turbo is allowing the exhaust to release the blow out, so a new way of application that works.

Here is a pic of new Shell Macks with the same exhaust muffler. Pic of blue frame 10/89 Valueliner with the steering box mounted inside the frame/chassis, the red frame Valueliner build was 12/89 it had the steering box mounted on outside of the frame, seems that Mack Aust decided soon after Oct 89 to mount the steering box outside the frame. All Superliners that I have seen do not have the V8 emblem, however all the Valueliners with the V8 engine have the V8 emblem. Maybe only the early V8 Superliners had the V8 emblem. The blue Superliner seems to have lost all it's hood emblems many moons past!!! Holes all filled in.

No air start in Bromage's Superliner and the muffler would have been speced to comply with our fuel delivery trucks regs. During 1970's to 1980's Shell had all Macks for it's prime movers and all had same type of muffler. Previously, the mufflers were under the front bumper and pointing out to the right side, again for govt regs, because most fuel trucks were petrol engines.

Hi Vlad Here is a picture of Vin plate riveted onto left door of our Valueliner and yes total of 17 letters and numbers. I have not enquired about what the letters and numbers represent. Frame (chassis) number is on right side, usually front of the cab. Dan Thomas wrote some time ago that when he was in process of registering his Aussie Valueliner he was concerned about the Vin plate not being on left side and he was relieved when he saw it was on left same as in US,

Clarification is 1st Aussie Superliner built 1978 and it had a Cat 3408 and is now resting with other doggies in a Mack kennel in the Southern end of Australia. The Supeliner above was the 1st powered by the MACK V8-E9, it was number 4, delivered July 1979.

I make an apology, this was not the 1st Aussie Superliner, It was the 1st Aussie Superliner with the E9 engine, waiting for some info to hopefully track down 1st Superliner and what engine was fitted before the E9

1st Australian Superliner was built in 1979

Here is the 1st Mack Superliner with Mack V8 built in Australia. Before and most recent pictures as a water cart are attached. It was bought by Joe Bromage transport, a Melbourne Aust fuel cartage contractor, who worked for Shell, local and country runs. Joe had about 10 all Mack trucks in his fleet. Around 1989 Joe sold his business to Cootes Transport, which grew to fuel and LPG distribution for Shell in Queensland, New Sth Wales and Victoria. No1 history after Joe sold to Cootes is unknown to me. It seems that Joe fitted a sleeper cab for the longer overnight fuel runs. After Cootes bought Bromage he repainted Joe's trucks to his blue colours Attached is a picture of the Supeliner with Cootes colours. Cootes was not a fan of the Mack V8's engine and within 1-2 years he sold all the Mack V8's, Superliners and Aussie Valueliners he bought from Bromage and stuck to the Mack 6 cyl R models, many being Valueliners. After Cootes sold it, it was repainted in the straight blue colour. It was for sale in 2018 and the vendor emailed these pictures. Neither he nor I knew it was no 1. If only!!! He eventually sold the water tank and pump set up and later he sold the bare Mack to a Mack collector, who will restore it. At some time in it's life cycle, the Mack V8 and gear box ( I dont know what box it was built with) were replaced with a Cummins 400 and 13 spd Road Ranger. The rear end and frame length are original, however it looks like the rear tandem was pushed back for the water tank set up. During it's life it had a sleeper cab fitted and repainted in the Cootes blue colours - a picture is attached with it's sleeper.

Is this what you mean? This is our 10 spd same as the 12 spd lever and splitter. We had a solid piece of wood shaped to copy the gear knob in our Toyota Prado auto shift knob. We had a metal tube threaded to same as the gear lever, drilled hole into bottom of wood knob and set the metal tube with industrial glue into the hole.

Yes apply the high fill in 2-3 progressive layers over the LS but you must add approx 35 of flex additive to the high fill because the LS is flexible whereas the high fill is solid, by adding the flex add to the high fill then the high fill will move with the LS - when I say move it means the product is flexible, and that is ok, after each HF you apply let it dry thoroughly then sand it back to even it a bit then apply 2nd HF with flex add, let dry then rub back, if after 2nd coat you have a smooth surface then you can apply an undercoat also with flex add, let dry and rub back to get smooth finish and then apply the final red paint with flex add in the red. That is how we did our fire wall engine side and we have a mirror finish which you see in my picture. If you need to apply a 3rd coat of HF then that wont hurt because you are building up in layers to get a smooth surface before you spray the undercoat. It sounds like a lot of work but the final result you will be very happy and get the benefits - once done you will look back and forget the extra work, but it is done properly, which is what the LS inventor, Bob Call advised me to do. Remember the trick is to add the flex add so all the products can flex in parallel with the LS. And that is what I have seen with underside of our hood, it is aluminium we applied LS with some of our external green paint mixed in and the hood twists when it is opened and lifted, so far after 5 years no cracking or peeling of the LS because it is flexible - hence the name like the lizard skin. With your cab wall vents they serve no real purpose unless you want a permanent air flow. If not seal them with a thin aluminium or metal sheet, painted black facing the vents, and stick on with a long lasting glue so you dont have water leaking thru into the cab, (when you wash the truck) and no bugs or mice to damage the upholstery, do this before you spray the LS over internal cab walls. That is how Ian Lee did the vents in his Pal LTL, from outside the vents look as original. Congratulations on a craftsman workmanship, a credit to you sir.

Matt - what are you planning to do with the 2 vents on the rear of the cab? Ian welded a curved plate inside over both vents stops water and all else getting into cab and upholstery and all inside cab had LS applied I dont have a picture of the plates he welded, but I will try ask his panel guy if he took some pictures.

Hi Matt For your firewall please see our firewall, we have lots of fittings etc including our custom vintage air co fittings, but the smooth mirror finish is clearly seen behind all the fittings. The aim is to stop the sound and the heat getting into the firewall metal from the engine side, that is the best 1st action that is overlooked. Once the engine side of the metal is shielded, it is at least 75% of stopping heat and sound coming into the cab. The inside cab is about 25%. The same as the cab floor, you have applied LS to the underside, so the heat from the gearbox will not penetrate thru the floor. Same principal for the fire wall. For the firewall holes, may I suggest that you weld a thin plate on the cab side over the holes that you will not use. Then you can apply the LS to the engine side of the firewall and then the hyfil to build up to a mirror finish. Re the use of the LS, yes you will use a bit more in the crevices etc, but on the generally flat areas you should not exceed more than thickness of a credit card. Double the thickness does not produce double the insulation, so you dont need to waste the LS by applying a thick coating. And yes do all the inside of the doors especially the bottom sills, it will seal and prevent rust permanently and do all inside the doors. You will be most surprised by the dull sound when you open and close the doors, it will sound like a clunk, no tinny vibrating sound. And do the under sides of the fenders, deadens the road noise. And same under the hood - you wont use much LS under the hood, it works like sound deadner under cars hoods. My experience in our B model, with E350 turbo motor and 10 spd overdrive, is it cuts out the noise and vibration coming from the engine bay, so then you can hear what you want to hear - the music coming out of the exhaust. You can go straight because with the LS all inside your cabin, and the upholstery it will cut down the exhaust sound, wind up the windows and it will be quieter. When I want to hear our exhaust humming, going up hill and winding up the turbo or going down hill and engine brake on, then I wind down the windows and I hear the music coming from the 2 exhausts. And in middle of the night the sound is fantastic, just the humming from the exhaust. Not dulled by noise coming from the engine bay thru the floor, firewall, engine hood and doors. Only noise that we could not cut out is the vibration that comes thru the gear lever - we have sound padding but it is ok, only under load it is a bit noisy. Ian's LTL Pal had the LS applied same as our B model, it has straight exhausts and a 400 HP Cummins, he got same experience a I do in our B model. That is the real benefit of the LS and it sound control product, it cuts out all the shit noises so then you can properly hear the exhaust sound.

Please any idea what engine is in that Brockway? Did Brockway ever fit the Mack motors and if yes did they fit the Mack V8's? This 760 with an E9 would be something!!!

That Fageol seems to be maybe built on an IH running chassis, the front bumper, the front wheels look like the DCO Emeryville wheels and radiator louvers are same as the Inter R 190 ... series. With the body height it could be custom built inside into mobile home and retaining the original Ridgway external design and colours for it's heritage.

Hi Matt Great job, a bit of red adds to the complete package, but please make sure that you have squeezed the LS into all the nooks and crannies, especially all weld joins, anywhere the nasty rust loves to hibernate, once the LS dries it will seal the metal completely. And you probably saw how easy to apply LS, it flows when you apply it, then a quick wash up with warm or cold water, no toxins and no harm to your skin or lungs. I may be repeating my previous posts, remember if you plan to apply to the engine bay side of the fire wall and then apply finished red paint over the LS, you have to apply a mixture of hyfill and about 35% flex additive first over the LS, let dry and then rub back and most likely you will have to apply a 2nd coat of the hyfill and flex additive to get a smooth finish, so then you have a smooth finish to undercoat and thereafter the top coats. It will come up like the external panel finish, you will get the LS benefits and the fire wall behind the engine looking great. I look forward to soon see your completed cabin painted - our departed and missed dear friend Mack devotee "Ian Lee" always said - " trucks are red and tractors are yellow, if it's not red leave it in the shed"!!! Here is Ian during the build of his custom Diamond T - Princess Diana and his Pal, his Pal got a complete application of LS and Ian's favourite and only colour.