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Pitman arm removal


Freightrain
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Well, as I try to install my air assist I have been trying to get my pitman arm off. No avail yet. Have a fancy bearing puller but it is not beefy enough. Borrowed a pitman puller but it is actually too big and won't grab it enough(opening too large for my arm) and it just wants to spread open and pull over it. No one else has any other options. Last resort is buying a slack adjuster puller which I think will fit better(for $150). Ugh.

I have everything cleaned up. New seal for the cylinder shaft. New boot for shaft also(courtesy of my old Rancho shocks). Really anxious to get this mounted and working.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Not the "right" way to do it but I have used heat, PB Blaster and two right angle bars.

Obviously, you don't want to heat so there is any red. It usually takes 2 or three tries but it has worked. The heat will expand the metal and break the bond between the two.

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Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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Yes, taking it off steering box. The nut and lockwasher are removed.

I tried some very light heat to see if I could get it to expand enough to loosen. No luck. I left the puller under tension in hopes it might work loose(I know I'm dreaming).

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Try with the puller on it with tension, giving it a few shots with a) your hammer or B) with an air hammer. Some times with the tension from the puller and the shock from the blows it will pop Paul

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I also helps to lay a sledge hammer on one side of the arm and with smaller hammer hit it from the other side.Be carefull with hammer on it towards the out side or from the box side. Reason is the thrust on the end of the pitman arm is not made to take much pulling out of the box pressure.If you ever in that box you will know what I am talking about. There was two different boxes that the B models used.As stated heat is last resort to do.There is people in the grave yard that was caused by using heat on steering componets.

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glenn akers

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I'd fit a puller what I currently have, pre-load it and hit an arm by side near the shaft. A counter support with a big hammer is a good option.

Make 3-4 good hits, if no luck apply some heat but not much. About paint will start burning off. If no luck repeat all that with a larger puller.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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<1> Grab a small mirror n do a good inspection right round the problem... B looking for a recessed grub screw etc

<2> Apply heat with out using gas ax a Steam cleaner n time will get the arm hot ... or if U can make a temporary pond to hold water

n keep filling with boiling water th@ will also get sum warm into the arm

cya

§wishy

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Only used small propane type torch. Also whacked with bfh while under tension.

I have a spare box and there is no set screw or other bolt holding it. I've done pickups without issue but this is twice as big and 20 yrs older!

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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A two arm puller will do it, tighten the puller as much as you think is enough, then heat just one area a little with a oxy-acetylene torch. You can put some steel pieces behind to pull the heat from the seal area. it will pop off.

( heating in one area expands the bore, heating in two places tends to close the bore) light heat no cherry red.

FW

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there was 2 or 3 different steering boxes Larry. the B20 and 30 used the smaller Gemmar box I think. B42-61 used the SG25 or 26. yours is a SG26 as you have a Fa517. the Fa505 with the hubcap used the SG25 box. most al B models have a nut and lock washer on the box. only ones I have seen with the Machine screw and slot in the nut were the Shephard boxes. id use a wire wheel and clean up around the shaft, PB blaster it and put the puller on with some tension. it should pop.

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yes if the style is the same as thomas just posted the bolt must be removed then drive a chisel into the opening and should come right off. if on a tapered shaft apply a puller and preheat a area about the size of a quarter and it should "pop" off if not hold a 6-10 lb. hammer in one side and . strike with a 4-6 lb,180 degrees opposing and it should come loose.

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My inner fenders are very nice and likely not going to cut them. I'll pull the fender if I have to.

I have one spot I can get with hammer/air hammer once a puller is installed. I will continue to tinker with it.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Here's what I had dancing around.

If the memory serves I used an oxigen torch and a puller.

Hammer doesn't count.

Actually when you heat up it's too important to warm up fast.

This way an outer part expands before much heat is transferred to an inner one what follows with its expansion also.

So as more powerful a torch is as better. But don't overheat :)

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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