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It can never be too big, but the one advantage you will have is that it is only big enough to store the two trucks in so you won't tend to clutter it up with a bunch of other crap.

I agree; 10 foot doors are tight.

I have a Mitsubishi split unit in my 36x36 building and it does a nice job of keeping it warm at a reasonable price. I think it is much easier on the trucks when they are kept in a heated space.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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BD,

Does Morton allow you to share the cost estimate on this project? Working with them now to construct similar, but 36 x 48 in Montana for the same thing shop/ toybox. We haven't gotten to cost yet but I would like to know a ball park. Also, what options did you have? concrete floor, insulation, finished interior etc. Thanks -B

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the previous replies where right ,the bigger it is the more you collect, we built the first Morton in 2006 42 x52 ,it cost 37k, we subed the floor 7k (6"),not insulated.2013 we had another one put up 42x60 ,42k ,subed floor 6" 10k ,12' away and we connected them with a hallway 12x5 we did ourselves ,the new building we subed insulation 12" in ceil.6 "

walls a then covered with steel. it ranges betw.15 &20 degrees diff. the 1st bldg. we put in a part 2nd floor 8x42.

the 2nd bldg. took 225 tons of crushed concrete to grade the floor up. good luck

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That's exactly what I did , I installed the radiant piping over 10 years ago and only this year did I install the boiler . I have the thermostat set at 50 & 60 degrees and I find myself working in a tee shirt . I just received my first heating bill to my surprise was only $75 bucks , if you do most of the work yourself like I did you'll save big $$$ . My other shop where I keep my equipment has overhead blowers and whenever the 14 ' door is opened there goes your heat not to mention the pain in my back and knees working on a cold slab .

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My Two Cents

If you decide to put radiant heat in make sure that you get specs for the proper length and size of the heat coils and insulation based off your location and floor size and make sure they put them at the proper depth in the concrete. Don't skimp on the under floor or perimeter reflective material and insulation or the amount of coils needed.

My neighbor has it in his shop and after 5 years of tweaks and adding additional insulation and consulting a specialist his is finally working good. He thought he was doing it right, the building people sold him on it and provided the plan and said we do this all the time. A reputable heating engineer that specializes in this type of heating needs to be consulted, otherwise like my neighbor you will be chasing issues and efficiency. Insulation should be Closed Cell spray foam at least two inch than you can finish with fiberglass or open cell. 2 inch of closed cell is like R14, the closed spray foam that I used is fire retardant and does not need to be covered. I had my roof, side wall 18" down and gable ends done on my 30x50 for around $3000. I had already insulated the bottom 8ft and covered in OSB. This past fall I finally finished of the top six 6ft of wall.

I added a this for my heat source, inexpensive takes less than 10 minutes to get back up to 60 form the 32 when with both doors 12x12 open. So far pretty reasonable to work, and with the shop completely insulated it seems to stay about 15 degrees warmer than outside. Seems to do the same in the hot summer 15 degrees cooler if I keep the doors closed.

http://www.qcsupply.com/commercial-industrial/heaters/garage-shop-heaters/20700-modine-power-vented-gas-fired-unit-heater.html

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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