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Hate'n on the dayton!


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Picked the set with the most wobble to "true" myself...worked an our or so and couldnt get them true...realized the inner wheel was stuck! A can of PB Blaster, my biggest hammer, crow bars, even dropped the jack fast to the ground several times, didnt budge...will get a big sledgehammer from work and give it another go...I know the daytons on the rear are the classic East Coast look, but I HATE EM!

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that impact is your trouble. They are fine for buds but you don't need them for spokes., I never had a lick of trouble in all the years we ran spoke wheels,all I ever used was a big 4 way and a cheater bar for final snugging.

We did the same way on our trucks w/ daytons as Mike is describing .

& We also lined the wheels & tires up by putting a sledge hammer in front on the tire & wheel & spun the tire & wheel wherever the wheel & tire wobbled is the lugs we tightened up until straight & true . esp if it was a steer tire .

:mack1:

You Cant Fix Stupid. But You Can Numb It With A Sledgehammer. :loldude:

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We did the same way on our trucks w/ daytons as Mike is describing .

& We also lined the wheels & tires up by putting a sledge hammer in front on the tire & wheel & spun the tire & wheel wherever the wheel & tire wobbled is the lugs we tightened up until straight & true . esp if it was a steer tire .

:mack1:

What he said.

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Jake

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Like Mike said you don't need that 1" impac. A good !/2 is enough and then about a week check them again. I run them and have never not even the tire shop were kids work have any problem. A word that may help you and that is the inter wheel in and hold with your foot and then install a spacer on that is tight fitting enough to hold the inter wheel up tight against the hub. Then put the outer wheel on. Tighten with 1/2 impac some as you go around tighten some more but if it wobbles you cant keep tighten thinking it will get any better. The tire shop I use will check the wobble but if I am standing there I tell them its ok cause I have never seen one wobble after they get thru putting them on. My son will rotate my tires for me some times and have never had a wobble.

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glenn akers

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Take off is done with a gun.

Put on is done with a ratchet while making them true.

Finish with bar and double check true.

Only need 250 ft lb of torque on clean dry threads with 3/4" 10 tpi studs.

Jim

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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Picked the set with the most wobble to "true" myself...worked an our or so and couldnt get them true...realized the inner wheel was stuck! A can of PB Blaster, my biggest hammer, crow bars, even dropped the jack fast to the ground several times, didnt budge...will get a big sledgehammer from work and give it another go...I know the daytons on the rear are the classic East Coast look, but I HATE EM!

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i would run a portapower from the rim to somewhere on frame or a bottle jack,of coarse spray WD or liguid wrench around the rim real heavy,,good luck....i really like the spokes myself,,,but yes they can drive you crazy,,,i used to work in a tire shop in the 70,s we could run them up true with an air wrench,,,but like these fella,s said...the average joe,,is better off doing them by hand...bob

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Like Mike said you don't need that 1" impac. A good !/2 is enough and then about a week check them again. I run them and have never not even the tire shop were kids work have any problem. A word that may help you and that is the inter wheel in and hold with your foot and then install a spacer on that is tight fitting enough to hold the inter wheel up tight against the hub. Then put the outer wheel on. Tighten with 1/2 impac some as you go around tighten some more but if it wobbles you cant keep tighten thinking it will get any better. The tire shop I use will check the wobble but if I am standing there I tell them its ok cause I have never seen one wobble after they get thru putting them on. My son will rotate my tires for me some times and have never had a wobble.

Listen to Glenn,

This is the right way to do it!

1/2" impact gun is all you need.

Ron

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take a grinder with a flapper disk on it and clean those spokes, put a few wedges back on and let it down, drive it back and forth a little, it will pop loose. and Mike is right, I only use an octagon bar with an old school tire iron wrench and can true them right up, of course I always put a PBR can on the ground next to the outside tire also. nothing wrong with spokes as long as everything is clean. its the last guy who put them together, didn't clean the threads or the spoke flat spots with a wire brush to remove the rust that's the problem. its the tubeless rims with the ridge in them I have trouble getting off a spoke rim when its on the inside. they have to come off perfectly straight cause the rims around smooth like a tube type. took me over an house before Macungie to get the inner tire off my B model to paint the rim.

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I only used the 1" impact to loosen! (I bought it for the front wheels and for other BIG stubborn bolts to loosen!) I always use a ratchet and socket to get 'em straight! Then the 1/2" impact and tighten them the same!

I thought about rocking back and forth with it on the ground, but figured it would slip and shear off the valve stem!

I will get a big Sledge from work and get it, or a porta power and some hammer work!

Thanks for all the tips!

I could kick myself in the A$$ for not waiting on the Yokohamas and changing only one end at a time!!!! It might be those new Kellys on the front that are causing the problem!

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I just traded the hubs and axles you need to swap to stud piloted disc to Winrock Truck Parts, call John, Bill or Casey and talk to them tell em who told you to call.

800-676-0052

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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If you make a deal for em I might be able to bring them to Watts show next month, I'm still planning to come but crazy things happen.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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You can tighten your front wheels with a 1/2" impact too, its only 350-450 ft lbs and most 1/2" guns will do that. I can stand someone using a 1" on my truck they are overkill now. If you look back in the early 80's a 1" wasn't rated for what it is now but people still use them just because they always have. I use a good high torque 1/2" impact on all my lugs and I've never lost one yet.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Tried again tonite...brought home a big sledge, could only beat on the tire...with the airride, I cannot get close to hitting it on the back side! Drove it back and forth a little, even spun the tire with no wedges, spacer, etc! Plenty of PB...No luck...will borrow a porta power from work, give it a shot...The PB blaster seems to be soaking in all around each spoke, don't know what is holding it on!

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Tried again tonite...brought home a big sledge, could only beat on the tire...with the airride, I cannot get close to hitting it on the back side! Drove it back and forth a little, even spun the tire with no wedges, spacer, etc! Plenty of PB...No luck...will borrow a porta power from work, give it a shot...The PB blaster seems to be soaking in all around each spoke, don't know what is holding it on!

WOW! When was the last time they where off? I've never had that much of a problem. Let the PB flow or the PBR either one! LOL :twothumbsup:

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