wastenafarmtrucking

What should you look for? A good head Dr.... because you're nuts!

1986 DK64F For Sale BTW

99 F350 4x4 Diesel dually. 7.3 with a evolution programmer, heavy duty rebuilt auto trans. 4.11 gears, 4" exhaust from turbo back, 188k. This thing flat out hauls ass! Many a kid with his little Civic that sounds like a chainsaw has been embarrassed at a red light! I've owned several Ford trucks and while I do like the 87-97 body style, the Super Duty is by far the best truck ford has ever put out. Bigger cab, and the rear doors open on the super cab.

I never run a mack with a muffler, my RD ran 4" to the back of the cab and then 5" up the cab and out past the cab protector, ran with the window down on cooler days, not to loud at all. My Vision had straight 5" all the way back with dual stacks.... cost me $200 my first trip through Ohio. Ungodly loud! Haven't pulled the muffler off my 3406B cat yet... bet it will be a window breaker with a straight 5"! I got my 4-5" adapter from my local mack dealer, non chrome.

My '01 Vision with the E7 460 had the same issue with the oil temp, not the low pressure though. I borrowed a laser handheld thermometer and checked it on a trip to Chicago. The gauge was over 30deg higher than what the filter/ oil cooler read when I checked it. Wouldn't surprise me if the pressure gauge was way off too. Can't trust electronic gauges.

Dayton are for dump trucks.For $2400(new) you can upgrade to hub piloted wheels. Much cheaper for used.

Yes, last February.

not into being poor anymore.

My Autocar Dump is up for sale. rebuilt drive line, updated to 1/2 round joints. #1 shaft is brand new along with all bolt on yokes, new carrier bearing, new slip joints and new jack shaft between the drives. 4 new battery's 3406B cat w/ jakes, 8spd LL O/D. mains and rods checked and are very good, not even through first layer. 18' Bibeau body w/ air gate and Richards tarper w/ new tarp. rear drives are 1st time caps @ 100%, front drives have 2 virgins and 2 1st time caps @50%. Fronts are @ 60% lots of money invested, starting different work.

looks like a pipe truck. the cab is single seat and offset to accommodate long lengths of steel pipe.

looks like you have a set back axle, like an RB or a DM. Never seen an RD with a set back.... HMMMM.

depends on how fast you want to go. A 300 is more than enough if it's geared right and has the right trans. But they're harder to find now a days, most order them with big hammers. A 300 with 4.65 rears and a 8LL O/D will get you down the road at around 65mph and climb hills pretty well, better if it was a 13spd.

ford used more than 3 different bolt patterns. the "Y" block, which is the same as the "FE" block,352, 360,390,427 and the 428- the small block, 289, 302, 351W, 351 cleavland, and the big block, 460, 429, 351M, 400. The C6 was introduced in 1966 and was available behind the FE engines, so yes, you could just pull the 360 and use the trans. Here is a link for a company that makes an adapter that will allow you to put a modern AOD transmission behind the 312 also. http://www.transmissionadapters.com/ford_y_block.htm

The Chevy small block is a lot shorter and narrower than the Ford small block, 260, 289, 302 and the 351W and would fit better, ie. less fabricating. To which I say "bullsh-" The old 292 and 312's were a good engine and shared the bell housing with the 352, 360, 390 and the awesome 427. High performance parts for the 292 and 312 are hard to come by thus making the upgrade seem more feasible. It's a sharp looking truck and it's nice that you're going to restore the ole girl.

check your toe. give it 1/8" toe in and see what it does. I've heard many of a mack wobble/bounce being fixed by toe in.

do you mean the centrifuge filter? more than likely the return tube has a hole in it from the clamp. put a new tube on it.

Why change a 427 to a 460? The 427 will out pull a 460 all day long. The company truck my Dad drove was a CH day cab, 427 and a 10spd, 3.55 rears. I had a Vision, 460+10% and a 13spd, 3.73 rears. With pretty much equal loads, his mite have been a little heavier, he would completely leave me in the dust on a hill. Every time, every hill.

boost gauge uses a 1/8" air line usually, I've also plumbed them with 1/4". whatever works best. find a plug in the intake manifold, (should be a 1/8" plug) install a compression fitting, run the line up thru the firewall and find a place on the dash where you want the gauge. most macks have extra hole in the dash for extra gauges. hook everything up and your done, usually takes 1/2hr-1hr to install.

keep running those recaps!

my 85 Rd did the same thing at the same speeds. I replaced the springs, spring hangers, king pins, tie rod ends, changed the fronts from daytons to hub pilot, re-bushed the camel back suspension, changed all of the rear torque rods, changed the front tires twice, spun balanced the steers, put on new drums, wheel bearings, bought those centering washers and put 3 different sets of front wheels on it. know what I had when all of the above was done? A rebuilt truck with a god damned bounce that would shake the fillings out of your teeth from 43-53 mph! the only thing that I hadn't tackled, and I knew there was a problem, was the drive shaft. I knew it had 2 bad yokes on the shaft, I had replaced all of the bolt on yokes. I was going to pull the whole shaft out, replace the yokes and have the whole thing balanced. it was stolen on Feb 6th. I hope that the S.O.B that took it to NYC pissed blood for a week!!!

when driving it and it does this, try down shifting and ring the rpms up to around 1800 then up shift again. Sounds stupid I know, but my vision used to lose power on a slight upgrade, lighting bolt would come on and she'd fall flat, split out of 13th, bring the r's up and it would go away, up shift and run it till it did it again. the ecm was bad. mack replaced it and the truck was well out of warranty.

it sounds like the puffer valve is bad. try disconnecting the air line to it and see what it does, besides smoke like a train, which you can avoid by not laying hard on the throttle until after 1500 rpm.

under a hard pull the pyro should climb to over a 1000deg. sounds like you're not getting enough fuel, you need to install a boost gauge and see what kind of boost you're pushing. for example, when i hauled the first load with the Acar I just bought, I noticed it fell flat on it's face, since I had installed a boost gauge and a pyro, I noticed that the boost wouldn't go over 16lbs and the pyro ran at 700deg most of the time. The only way to get it higher was to lug the engine down to 1200rpm and hold it to the mat. It also was a pig on fuel. Had the pump turned out 4 turns, now it will push 22lbs boost and run around 900deg climbing steadily in a hard pull. better on fuel and only puffs smoke on up shifts. Of course a mechanical engine is easier to do that than a computerized one, but the workings of the two are the same. Check the air to air, change the boots and clamps on the air to air tubing and have it put on a computer and check what the settings are, and put in a boost gauge.

Garbage Made Cheap......