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RowdyRebel last won the day on February 4

RowdyRebel had the most liked content!

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About RowdyRebel

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    Certifiable Redneck Engineer
  • Birthday 02/12/1979

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    If its got wheels or a skirt, I'm interested...

    ...but I probably can't afford it either.

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  • Other Trucks
    2000 Kawasaki ZRX11001996 Ford F2501992 Ford Ranger1986 Ford Ranger1947 Ford 8N

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  1. RowdyRebel

    More Suburban "fun"...

    The cam really isn't all that extreme... http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=197&sb=2 ...actually, the cam is just a hair mild for the stage 2: https://www.jegs.com/i/JET-Performance/561/36002/10002/-1 "This Carburetor is intended for 305,350 & 400c.i. Chevy Truck engines with mild performance upgrades..."
  2. RowdyRebel

    More Suburban "fun"...

    Problem now is it's running stupid rich (so much so that it will occasionally continue running for a few seconds after you shut off the key), wasting a bunch of fuel. That and the little 2bbl primative EFI isn't up to the task with the Vortec heads and free-flowing exhaust...so even if it wasn't running so rich, it is sucking air in through a straw and not living up to it's potential in the power dept. 800 cfm carburetor can be tuned...idle adjusted, needles and jets adjusted...not to mention having the ability to control the spark advance (which I think is set rather conservatively, because I told the chip maker I wanted to run the cheap gas...NOT the premium he "recommended". To have that chip reprogrammed to fix the over-fueling/spark advance issues involves pulling the chip, mailing it to him, he takes another stab at it, mails it back to me, and 2 or 3 weeks later I get to see if it is a good change or not...and if not, repeat. Who has time for that? Carburetors and distributors can be tinkered with whenever I've got a few spare moments. Once it's dialed in, it'll run better...like I said, the old worn out & inefficient 190 hp engine was giving us 11.25 mpg. This one (with 1996-2000 intake) is rated 60-100 hp higher. More power is usually more efficient, because you spend less time and effort getting going. I was honestly expecting 12-14 mpg. Dad had a '97 Chevy Express van, same engine (minus the cam), same transmission, 4.11 rears instead of the 3.73's, and 235/85R16 tires instead of the 285/75R16's we've got...and he was getting 14 mpg with that, so I know it CAN be done...just got to get it tuned right.
  3. RowdyRebel

    More Suburban "fun"...

    Well, starting to put together a list to place another order...Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake manifold, still a toss-up on the carburetor (leaning toward a Jet remanned 800 cfm stage 2 Quadrajet for light trucks), but also need a TPS to run the transmission controller. US Shift has some listed on their site, but none say they are specifically for the Quadrajet. Then there's the distributor...thinking a Proform (officially licensed by GM) with mechanical and vacuum advance ought to do the trick...hoping to find one compatible with the hydraulic roller cam I have or at least uses the same size drive gear that I already have so I can just swap it over. That right there ought to get it running a little better. Also going to yank those silly long tube headers off and go back to OEM exhaust manifolds. Thought about putting shorties on there, but from what I'm reading there isn't enough gain in power to justify paying twice as much as the OEM replacement manifolds. Why? Because I want to get another Y-pipe (had to cut the one I bought into 100 pieces and weld it back together...and it's got a few leaks as a result). Having a one-piece Y-pipe will eliminate 99% of the exhaust leaks on the truck. Last up is fixing the driver's side window. Probably going to order new glass, wing window, track, etc...got to be able to roll the window up and down without it jumping out of the track or getting stuck...otherwise, it'll be a very uncomfortable trip to Texas in a few months. I'm really hoping these changes will get us up into the 12-14 mpg range I was hoping for with the new motor, because we WERE at 11.25 mpg before the swap to the Vortec heads. Sitting at 7.75 mpg right now, and the sad thing is I can get that all day long out of the 460 in the F250 pulling the 4-horse gooseneck around. Still need to do the body mounts, too. Bought a 3/4" drive 3/4" socket, because my 1/2" drive impact and ratchets just weren't breaking them loose. I don't care much for reducers if I can find the proper size socket in a bigger drive. Guess I ought to get to work on it...
  4. RowdyRebel

    Tire air pressure

    I put a quick-connect on my air tank to plug an airline into. When my brother started driving, I made him one of those gladhand airlines using a rubber hose and a dual inflation chuck that locks onto the valve...for the same price as the POS pvc ones the truck stops sell. I can't stand pvc hoses...OK in the summer, but the other 3 seasons they don't want to unroll so you can use them, and then when you're done they don't want to roll back up to put away.
  5. RowdyRebel

    Tire air pressure

    50% of the max inflation listed on the sidewall is considered "flat"...so if you're running 16-ply tires with a 120 psi max, you could have one @ 120 and the other @ 61 and be legal. 120 & 60 and you're in trouble. Best to keep them as close to equal as you can, though, for better wear.
  6. RowdyRebel

    This one got me a "Talking To":

    Might want to be careful with that video...local gestapo sees it and they'll run you in on some BS child endangerment charge. Times have changed for sure, and not always for the better. They're never too young to learn...
  7. Sorry, but if I were hung up on the tracks, I would unhook the air and electric lines, pull the 5th wheel release, and pull the tractor out of harms way. Do that while on the phone with the railroad. If they can't get the trains shut down, at least you minimize the damage. Once the trains are shut down, get some blocks to roll the drives onto as you back under the trailer again, hook up the air lines, and back off the tracks. Even if you can't pull out from under the trailer, with the 5th wheel released and the air lines disconnected, at least it won't drag your truck 1/2 mile up the tracks. No big loss here, though...just a petercar.
  8. ...says Easter Bunnies taste like jelly beans.
  9. RowdyRebel

    It happened again...

    So easy a 7 month old can do it...
  10. RowdyRebel

    It happened again...

    ...and it cracks me up every time: Two boys tried to steal pizza delivery car but could not drive stick, cops say http://www.foxnews.com/us/2018/03/31/two-boys-tried-to-steal-pizza-delivery-car-but-could-not-drive-stick-cops-say.html
  11. RowdyRebel

    Well THAT 'splains it!

    Thanks. Will plan on pulling the floor in the next day or two then to get the rest of them...guessing maybe 3 or 4 more?
  12. RowdyRebel

    Well THAT 'splains it!

    Well the good news is I was able to use a tap and a 1/4" wrench to get all but 1 of the wallered out holes stretched out to the 7/16-20. Used the old bolts in the holes up next to the transmission mount, since they didn't seem too bad and there was no way to get the tap into them even if I wanted to. Only vacant hole right now is the one behind the clutch linkage...wallered out too bad to use an old bolt, but can't get the tap in there to stretch it to fit a new one. Maybe I'll pull the clutch linkage off when it's warm enough to have the boy outside with me and I'm not listening to him screaming bloody murder through the baby monitor. Way I figured was if he's screaming, he's breathing. Had to make a few trips inside to check on him while he was napping, though. Anyway, I didn't pull the floor panel to get any bolts in the top...figure there's probably a couple up there, but again with a screaming kid in the house I didn't want to spend any longer than absolutely necessary. At least now I've got most of them...and I left my ratchet strap on there for good measure. Every bolt also has blue lock-tite on the threads, and the new bolts have lock washers, too. HOPEFULLY there wasn't too much extra wear that will cause me trouble in the near future...guess we'll wait and see. I'm only planning on reloading the stuff I'm going to need tomorrow into the cab...emptied it out Friday when I got home anticipating removing the floor panel this weekend. If anyone knows for certain whether there'd be bolt holes in need of bolts up there, then I'll run with minimal equipment until I get those taken care of. If there aren't any up there, then I won't bother pulling the floor panel and will restock the cab when I get home.
  13. RowdyRebel

    Well THAT 'splains it!

    I could find the 12x1.25 tap, but no bolts. 7/16-20 seemed extremely close...larger than the 10mm, slightly smaller than the 12mm, and the threads are only about 1/4 thread off over the 1-1/2" long bolt. Close enough, so I picked up a pair of drill bits and a pair of taps (just in case I break one). Going to see if the holes are close enough to run the tap in with a wrench first...might solve the clearance issues of getting in there with a drill. Hell, might even weld a nut on the end of one of the drill bits to turn it by hand (slowly...) if I get to thinking that might be quicker/easier than dropping the transmission. Also picked up some thread paste (says it's "better than tape") and a stick of blue locktite. With the threads being a hair off, not sure which would be better to use to get things to stay put...guess I'll figure it out as I go. Anyway, pretty sure I've got what I need. Already 3:00 today and still got a few more stops to make while I'm up this way...probably be tomorrow before I get to work on it.
  14. RowdyRebel

    Well THAT 'splains it!

    Most of what I'm finding as far as threaded inserts and helicoils, I'm afraid I'll have to pull the transmission back out of the way. While I've got a 2000# transmission jack, that 2180B is going to be pushing that to its limit...and I've got a choice between a gravel parking spot or a rough asphalt driveway to work in...neither one very friendly to rolling around a 2000#+ (transmission, gear oil, 2 PTO's, hydraulic pump, etc...) Prefer (if possible) to find an option that can be completed with the transmission in place.
  15. RowdyRebel

    Well THAT 'splains it!

    Well that's not what I wanted to hear! Dern near a brand new clutch...just replaced 150K miles ago with the new motor. If the clutch goes, I'll look into the new bell housing, but for now looking at my options for making it work. Found some thread inserts at Fastenal ("only" $4.95/ea) that I'd have to drill & tap a 9/16-12 hole to screw in some brand new M10x1.25 threads...but they look to be special order only. Also found I could go with the cheaper wire inserts (helicoils), but I'm not having much luck in finding out how big of a hole they thread into. I've also found that M12x1.25 bolts are available...but have yet to find a source for them. I'd also need a tap that size. I figure if I upsize the bolt a little but can keep the thread pitch the same, I'd avoid the problems associated with cutting new threads and stuff not all aligning right. Unfortunately, money is extremely tight right now. Changed the name on the door to run under my buddy's numbers, and there was a 2 month delay while paperwork and everything got sorted out and put in place. Still owe on a brake overhaul (S-cams, slacks, etc...) and now that front diff that let go...so really not much room in the budget for a clutch right now. That and a full year's registration is due at the end of the month to renew my tags. I could really use a winning mega-millions ticket right about now...only a $421 million jackpot tomorrow night.

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