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RowdyRebel

Pedigreed Bulldog
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RowdyRebel last won the day on December 24 2018

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About RowdyRebel

  • Rank
    Certifiable Redneck Engineer
  • Birthday 02/12/1979

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SoIL
  • Interests
    If its got wheels or a skirt, I'm interested...




    ...but I probably can't afford it either.

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    CH613
  • Year
    2001
  • Other Trucks
    2000 Kawasaki ZRX11001996 Ford F2501992 Ford Ranger1986 Ford Ranger1947 Ford 8N

Recent Profile Visitors

5,912 profile views
  1. RowdyRebel

    Liz Warren

    A group of democrats gathered together wearing white...seems like that sort of thing used to be cause for serious concern. Were they trying to show solidarity with the VA governor?
  2. RowdyRebel

    Santa stopped early in a Penski Truck.

    You could build one with 3x the CID and have the same though if you could've built it with 4x the CID...
  3. RowdyRebel

    Merry Christmas to all of you!

    ...but that ain't a Mack. I specifically told Santa if it ain't a Mack I don't want it!
  4. RowdyRebel

    More Suburban "fun"...

    Don't know. All I know for sure at this point is that it's an electric choke and the stumble went from a mild hiccup to a major issue after it sat for 3 or 4 weeks, and that it's less of an issue once it's up to temp. Tried running a tank with the cheaper Berryman B12 fuel system cleaner...probably should've used the more expensive Seafoam...but a few tanks of fresh gas later, it's still doing it.
  5. RowdyRebel

    More Suburban "fun"...

    Got the new line on there, bled it, and it stops nice & straight with no pulling to either side...just like it's supposed to. Now I just have to work on the stumble. If the engine is cold and you put it in gear, it stalls. If you mash the throttle (whether it's warmed up or not) it really struggles between 1500 and 2000 RPM (which sucks, because 1600 is about where the torque converter starts turning the wheels if you're pointed up hill). Not sure if it's a carburetor/fuel ratio issue or if I need to replace the ignition wires or tinker with the timing some more. Probably wouldn't hurt to pick up a new set of wires...these are a little on the ragged side. Picked up a book to read up on all of the little nuances and adjustments on the Quadrajet, and I really need to get a wide band O2 sensor and an air/fuel ratio gauge to go with it...then I can see exactly where it needs to be tweaked and which direction to tweak it. If the guy who's numbers were on my door most of the year ever pays me what he owes me (or even part of it), I'll probably go ahead and get that. Until then, I'll just have to deal with what I've got...
  6. RowdyRebel

    More Suburban "fun"...

    Ok, so it wasn't the caliper that was bad... Got the driver's side done & let gravity bleed it for a few minutes until bubbles stopped coming out, then put a little suction to it to make sure it was good. Went to the passenger side and tried the same thing...nothing. Vacuum wouldn't even suck it out. Disconnected the line and no drip. Step on the brake pedal with the line disconnected and it's a hard pedal. WTF? If I pushed REAL hard on the pedal, I could make it go down, and fluid would come out the disconnected line...but when I'd let up, the pedal was hard again. Cracked the rubber flex line loose and it started leaking, so I pulled the flex line off and ordered a new one. I guess the flex line was bad. Enough brake pressure would squeeze fluid down to the caliper, but it would close off again and not allow the pressure to be released. That's why it was slow to apply, and slow to release. I'll pick up the line after work today and should have 'er back together pretty quick when I get home. Anyway, new calipers, rotors, and pads, cleaned & repacked the wheel bearings, new grease seal, and manual locking hubs. Kind of glad I had made the decision to change the hubs before I dug into it, because I already had them. Auto-locks come out in a million pieces, with springs and clips and a whole bunch of other stuff to try to stuff in there just right...and when something goes flying, it's a lot easier to say "F-it...don't need it anyway" than it is to spend 3 hours looking for the damn thing. New line goes on tonight and she'll be road-worthy again.
  7. RowdyRebel

    More Suburban "fun"...

    Damn rain...couldn't get a jump on today's project because it was pouring...now can't get to work 'til the boy decides it's nap time. Then I'll have about 3-4 hours to knock it out before he wakes up again. If I don't get it finished, I'll have tomorrow morning before the wife leaves for work and nap time tomorrow...but I've also got to finish the cover for the trailer and the draw bar for the little tractor tricycle the boy's going to find under the tree in 10 days... So much to do, so little time...
  8. RowdyRebel

    More Suburban "fun"...

    And the fun continues...or should I say the hits keep coming? So yesterday I drove the Suburban to work (wife needed the F250 to haul some stuff to town). Anyway, I get off work early enough I figured I could tinker a bit before heading home. Changing the weights in the distributor, one of the little black 5/32" E-clips went flying (never to be seen again). Boss man lets me borrow his car to run into town to get another one...Napa, Car Quest, Auto Zone, Orscheln, O'Reilly, Buchheit...best I could come up with was a 4mm (0.0312mm too big...which may as well have been 6" too big). So, I'm debating running it home with just 1 E-clip, but when I walked into the office I saw a tiny little paperclip that looked to be about the right thickness...so I snagged it. Cut the middle-sized bend out of it (which was about the size I needed) and wrapped it all of the way around in the E-clip's groove, leaving the 2 ends on opposite sides of the post. That seems to be doing the trick...3 HOURS wasted on a 20 second solution. Good news, though, while searching for the E-clip, I discovered the reason it pulls to the left when you first hit the brakes, and then pulls to the right when you let off...damn right side caliper is sticking. Slow to apply (pulls to the left) and slow to release (pulls to the right). SO slow to release, in fact, that the pads are gone and the backing plate is chewing up the rotor. Saw metal shavings on the inside of the rim while looking for the E-clip. So, got new calipers, rotors, and pads to put on. Still need to pick up the wheel seals and spindle nut socket for the Dana 44. Now would also be a damn good time to put some manual lock hubs on it, since the auto locks aren't locking...since it'll all be apart anyway. Also got (another) set of new spark plugs. Had to do some research...needed the 1990 gap (0.035) with the 1996-2000 reach, 1 heat range colder. NGK TR6 fit the bill. New motor came with TR55's, but the 0.060 gap was burning up ignition modules. Regapped them to 0.035 and problem solved. New plugs I just installed end of last month are for the 1990 heads (not the '96-'00 Vortec I have now) and the tip doesn't thread in near as far. SIGNIFICANT loss of power as a result! Dropping the 1 heat range ought to help eliminate what little pinging I'm still getting. With the lighter weights, I was able to up the initial timing about 3-4 degrees and hear less pinging pulling a hill. Hopefully the new plugs eliminate it altogether (as well as give me my power back!) Fun.
  9. RowdyRebel

    I guess it's time to retire THAT jacket...

    I was making a hard cover for the motorcycle trailer I build about 12 years ago. Already modified it to haul the dogs this past summer, but need to haul Christmas presents here in a few weeks. Anyway, I had the saw horses out, kneeling down and welding away when I started to not feel so cold anymore. That was accompanied by the rather pleasant smell of burning cotton. I stopped welding, flipped up the mask, looked down, and saw my jacket was pretty much fully engulfed. Oops. Smothered it with the gloves pretty quickly. No burns...had 2 layers of thermals, a sweatshirt, and coveralls on under the Carhart vest. Like I said, it was just a rather pleasnt feeling of not being cold anymore, which got my attention because it was cold as **** outside.
  10. Just a friendly reminder that old, worn, frayed Carharts are NOT very fire-resistant.
  11. RowdyRebel

    Eaton 8LL in an RD...

    This wasn't my first choice, but it's far from my last...driving feed trucks. Couple semis, couple straight trucks, a few dually flatbed pickups, and whatever else needs to be driven. Get into some interesting places, too...anywhere there are cows, chickens, pigs, horses, goats, or any other critters being fed, I just might get to go. I did get some bad news...the Mack RD (my favorite truck they have) is slated for replacement in January. Sucks, because that's the 1 truck I have no problems taking anywhere...46K camelbacks and a 20K steer, with a steerable pusher. E7-350 is a little under-powered (compared to my E7-460P) and the 8LL is definitely short a few gears from my 2180B. Rear gears have this thing tached out at 60-65 mph, so when I hit lo-lo, it just creeps along. They're going to remove the feed bed before they get rid of it...half tempted to see what they'd want for it. Move the pusher axle up in front of the drives and mount a 16' dump bed on there and go to work hauling for a road crew. Probably pick it up cheap, because the shifter leaks air (as discussed in the OP), the roof leaks (likely the roof vent or the cab light gaskets), and the hood squeeks (bushings gone that support the hood when closed). Other than that, though, it's a good running truck.
  12. RowdyRebel

    Eaton 8LL in an RD...

    I parked my truck for a while. Friend who's numbers I was running under wasn't paying me, then decided not to renew insurance I was paying for, leaving me in a bit of a bind. Meanwhile, the bolt holes in the bell housing of my truck are wallered out and the input shaft seal has started leaking, so it won't pass inspection to lease on anywhere. Need to pull the trans, repair the threads in the bellhousing, replace the seal, fix whatever else is damaged, and put it all back together again. Then, get my own damn numbers to run under. Until then, I'm punching a time clock while my truck sits in the driveway waiting for me to get some money together to get it back on the road.
  13. RowdyRebel

    Eaton 8LL in an RD...

    Is that difficult to change? Never pulled a shift knob apart before, and it isn't my truck...so I'd hate to screw it up.
  14. RowdyRebel

    Eaton 8LL in an RD...

    Other day I was driving it, come up to a 4-way stop, and it wouldn't go into low range without pushing down hard and holding the range selector. After a while, it got to the point where it would shift to low range without physically holding the selector switch down, but air is leaking unless you're pushing down hard on the switch. Flip it to high range, and the air leak stops. Talking to another driver, it had done that before and quit, but he didn't know how or why...just curious what would cause it (because it's rather annoying and I'd like to fix it). They think I'm nuts, but it's my favorite truck of theirs to drive (other trucks are a pair of freightshaker T/T's and a KW straight truck...no reason the Mack WOULDN'T be my favorite!)
  15. RowdyRebel

    Front Turn Signal Location

    ...and a truck with fender-mounted blinkers is less likely to drive down the road unknowingly signalling a lane change or turn, because you can SEE the blinky light on your fender clear as day. Then again, does it really matter if people can see a car's blinker if the person driving it never uses it? Sometimes I wonder if they quit teaching that in driver's ed...nobody uses theirs, and everybody ignores yours when you use it.

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