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doubleclutchinweasel last won the day on January 10 2014

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About doubleclutchinweasel

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    Busier than a squirrel on final approach!
  • Birthday 12/23/1961

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    Marion, NC

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  1. It would be interesting to sit in a room, pour tasty alcoholic beverages into you, and extract every bit of Mack knowledge you have out of your head! You've forgotten more about these old Dogs than most of us will ever know...
  2. I love how the number nomenclature comes up in threads every now and then! The old Mack stuff had an elegance to the numbering system that everybody could use as a pattern. Even individual part numbers had a system. Then, Volvo came along and assigned random numbers to the parts, and royally screwed that up! Anyway, it is cool to see that folks are still learning how to read the number codes on the engines, transmissions, and model numbers. Makes me feel like I'm not such a "newbie" anymore! I remember going through all those same exercises when I was piddling with my old R611ST. Yes, sometimes the "END" was omitted from the engine marking (ENDT-673 for instance), because ALL the diesel engines at that time started with "END" (ENgine - Diesel). The ENDT-673 was a turbo (T) version of the "673-series" engine. That would have been the venerable "Thermodyne" engine. I know they were available in at least a 250-horse version. The END-673 would have been the normally-aspirated (non-turbo) version of the same engine. And, yes, it was 672 cubic inches. The "672" series was an older engine. The "673" was used to denote the "new" engine. Another very common version would have been the ENDT-675...the much beloved 237-horse Maxidyne (still 672 cu-in). Remember, the model number on the truck actually hinted at the powertrain configuration (R611 = ENDT-673 Thermodyne), (R685 = ENDT-675 Maxidyne). There were also similar numbering "clues" on the transmissions. Lots of folks don't remember that a "0" on the end of the trans model number denoted overdrive. Like, TRQ-7220. This was a TRansmission - Quadruplex. I believe the 722 indicated the torque rating or the particular gear rations used...or something. The "0" indicated that it was "overdrive in 5th"...making it an 18-speed rather that a 20-speed. I used to have a list of all those trans model numbers and what they meant. I need to see if I can find that... The attached pic shows a little of that. Again, elegant. Sorry for the rant! I guess I just miss being a part of the conversation!!!
  3. Sounds like that was NOT the truck I saw at Dennis Meehan's place. The one I saw there did not have good seats or A/C. Still, I hope you find it.
  4. That looks like the one I went to see a few years ago when it was being advertised through OldMacks. If it is one I went to see, it did indeed have a 2-stick (Quadruplex) box in it. Also had rigid seats on both sides (no t-bar driver's seat). Supposedly, the one I saw lived most of its life on Long Island. It didn't look quite that good then, though. Dennis had it hooked to a lowboy trailer, and was trying to sell them together, if possible. I was only interested in the tractor, and it was not exactly what I was looking for (for the price), so I passed on it. I think it sold not long after that. I hope you can track it down. Good luck.
  5. "Cat-Dog"? I'll bet that's a "hoss". Wow, we've got a zoo started here!
  6. Regarding the speedometer reduction unit... http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/speedo.asp
  7. I changed the one on my old R over to a commercially-available replacement tie rod and current ends. Found an equivalent diameter rod of similar length. Also, the old (bent) one was the "both RH threads of 2 different pitches" affair. The new one I put in was one LH and one RH, making it a bit easier to find parts.
  8. I have seen a few different ones. Most of the Bs I have seen were darker, and some even sparkled a bit! The Rs are a dull (flat) color. And, as I said, I have seen variations in color (this is from way back, when they were probably original). Like he said, above, take a part off. Let the paint guy scan the back side, where the sun hasn't bleached it out.
  9. The 15 speed Fuller i had in mine started doing the same thing going from HI to LO. Replacing the synchro unit solved it in short order. That unit is a marvel of simplicity. Not big bucks, either.
  10. If you bring that GA vehicle into NC, that CAN become a problem! Had several folks do that. NC can be a real ^%#$& about out of state vehicles. If you have the title, not too much of a problem. But, if it is an older, "no title required" vehicle, NC requires lots of garbage...things like the last 2 owners' shoe sizes, DNA samples from the third owner's mother-in-law, urine samples from the last DMV agent to register it, and so on. Had a guy do an old Harley that way a couple of years ago. I thought he was going to lose his mind before he finally got it done. Seems like his problem was that the registration the previous owner gave him was expired, and NC wanted a valid one. Eventually, they make you buy a bond (not that unusual for an out of state vehicle) and do a title search. Not sure why they don't just do that up fornt, and be done with it. Eventually, you do get a nice, shiny NC title. But it can be a BEAR. The good news is, once you get an NC title, it is accepted as gospel, all the way up to the pearly gates. Acquaintance of mine from the DMV says this all went into effect several years ago because NC had become a hot bed of stolen cars trafficing, chop shops, forgeries, and such. I guess we used to be TOO easy. So, in typical bureaucratic fashion, they seem to have gone completely overboard in reaction to it. A friend of mine actually moved his car salvaging business to TN, because they are much more "understanding" about that type of thing than NC is.
  11. No vodka! Just the empty NFL cans would suffice. If anybody comes up with any, PM me, and I'll give you a ship-to address.
  12. Ha-ha! Full would probably be more valuable. But, I think he realizes empties will be easier to ship!
  13. Got a guy here collecting the Bud Light NFL commemorative cans. He has a few from NY area, and from the west coast. But, he doesn't have any from the northern, central, or deep south teams. Anybody want to collect some and send them down here?
  14. These are the "crossover" cables that go from the starter to the Right-Hand battery box. I was only running batteries on the left side, and removed the cables. When I sold the truck, the new owner never picked up the cables. Need whatever $ it will take to ship them, and a few bucks to make me not regret selling them instead of recycling them! Anything reasonable will be accepted...really!
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