wastenafarmtrucking

i got the dynatard working, solenoid was bad, again. the problem that i'm finding and am most worried about is the hydrolic tappets aren't aval from mack anymore and the last time i had a problem with it i had to drive 2 hrs and rummage through a junk yard to find 2 (and thats all i could find) of the updated ones. i have driven 4 valves with jakes and i certainly have noticed the difference.

my dynatard has dropped a cyl and i am tired of dealing with it. i want to install a pacbrake or tech-brake but i can't afford the $$$ they want for a new system. anyone have a system or know someplace that has used mack engine brakes? it's a 86 E6 300 ata. what about putting a system on off of a E7? the heads are interchangable.........

check the frame connector brackets in the front, the rear cab mounts and the front cab mounts. look real good to the left of the clutch pedal, back in the well by the door, the cab often cracks there. other than that welcome to the world of back aches, head aches and blood in your piss! your and rd owner!

a new rear will cost what they are asking for the whole truck. of course they're probably 38k rears. i'd buy it if it had a mack 13 speed. never heard anything good about the mack 9 speed.

Name: 86 R686S Date Added: Owner: wastenafarm wastenafarm

did you use a 6 volt or a 12 volt coil?

for 33x12.50-16.5 tires you need at least a 10" wheel. pick up some 16" wheels, they're plentiful, and go with 265/75r16 or 285's.

yes i have had that problem, twice. both times because the bead didn't seat evenly on the rim. release the air, break the bead and re inflate. if the tire was run flat for the miles you say, it's junk. the belts were probably broke/stressed and the tire is out of round. jack up the axle and put a 4x4 close to the tread and rotate the tire to check run out.

I bought a pair of internal mufflers for my Vision. Never got them put on, would let them go for $250 you pay the shipping. still in original boxes. for 5" pipes.

the CH hood is longer and wider. just asking, why would you want to?

i removed mine on my 01 vision with the 460. gained almost 1.5 mpg and more power, lower the turbo temps. also got a nice little $150 fine in ohio. 2 90deg elbows fit the pipes together if you have the under body muffler. it will be obnoxious yet beautifully loud! but mine was the E7 so the results may be different.

i recently had my trunnion bushings and pads replaced on my RD and my front axle is in a little farther than my rear(looking down from the drivers side mirror). the job was done by a reputable shop that knows it's stuff and they said it is normal. to check your bushings place a jack under the u-bolt and just jack up enough to take the weight off the axles. then place a 2nd jack under the trunnion brace that comes down from the frame and start to jack that up, while watching the spring mounting pad were the spindle goes through. if you have more than a 1/4" of movement than the bushings are bad. another thing you will want to check is the lock nut. take off the bushing cap and check the locking nut. when mine were bad they moved enough to knock the nut off the spindle.

you have found my old truck! LOL i owned the same truck a couple years ago and i do miss it. as stated the most common problem was the cam, which at 500k has been replaced i'm sure. they also had a problem with the original turbo, which has been replaced also and some had problems with the computer, which mine had. i was the second owner, purchased the truck with 345k and it had 720k when i got rid of it. all the "problems" had been fixed and i had only a couple problems with it. they were... the computer, which mack warrantied, one turbo and the radiator. one other problem the cx's have is high under hood temps. i cured mine by putting a couple of those aftermarket stick on hood scoops(mounted backwards) on and cutting out the hood under them to allow air to enter. then i bought two chrome louvered side air intakes for a CH and cut out the hood above the front fenders on the side and put them on. this lowered the engine coolant temp by almost 10deg. and extended my coolant hose life by over a year. another thing you will want to do, and it's probably due, is to replace the front 2 leaf springs with a 3 leaf setup. this improved the ride and handling on mine a hundred fold!

Just unplugging the sensor won't help you. You have to put a jumper wire between the two connectors n the plug, same for the oil sensor too. Try the wire and see what happens. I had to cut the plug off and twist the two wires together on my 01 Vision.

we did that to a Brockway were I used to work. the bulldog was mounting the husky..... Boss didn't like it much

i noticed that advance auto also carries the "exhaust piss".

when i had an air shift six speed i always went 1-2-3 in low then went to neutral, moved the splitter to hi or direct then went to 2nd. didn't grind bad, but they will always grind a little. always shift from low to direct in neutral. this is how mack says to do it

if it has the dayton hubs(spokes) it's about $2300 to change the rears over to hub pilot, less if you can find used parts. if it has stud pilot then you will need to get longer inner studs.

the 237 had a run from 1966 to the early 80's. great motor lots of torque. the six speed can be swapped out for any other mack trans or any eaton but you have to also get a mack bell housing and do some drive shaft adjusting with either swap.

Yes it's a DM, probably a 685S. most common engine would be a 237 2 valve and the most common trans would be the six speed with two sticks. From the pictures you can tell it has the 20k front axle. Can't tell what the rears are, ask him if they are either 5 or 6 spoke. 5 would be 38k and six 44k. Pretty much a bullet proof truck, great as a site truck. If it has the Mack front axle( which it probably does) the king pins are adjustable. As far as leaks, the most common are the valve covers.