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Mackpro last won the day on January 23 2019

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About Mackpro

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    BMT Certified Know-It-All!

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  1. The Horton HT650 is the ones I’m thinking about.. Only issues we had was not with the fan clutch itself but the air solinoid leaking and wearing out the friction disc in the clutch. We always installed a new air solinoid when replacing a fan clutch. Also , sometimes the fan clutch would not fit flush on the water pump and a shin was needed . If the shim was not used , the clutch would wobble and cause the water pump bearings to go out .
  2. If you have the last 6 of the VIN I can do some digging for ya and see if there were any bulletins on the issue
  3. All the RD’s that I have seen that came factory with a 460 had a Horton air fan, If it has a viscous fan on it might have been originally a lower HP engine then later upgraded to a 460. The RD radiator it barely big enough for the 460 HP
  4. Mack/Volvo makes a gauge that checks the turbo stroke with the actuator removed. 90% of the time the turbo has to be replaced. We have seen actuators go bad or not calibrated but it usually throws a code. We did have a turbo not doing the full stroke and had our DPF cleaning guy come to the shop with some special machine that shot hydrogen ( or something similar) into the intake/air cleaner and cleaned the carbon out of the engine and turbo. I don’t know what this service is called but I saw it work in this case and we didn’t have to change the turbo.
  5. Way to much boost . Probably turbo actuator is stuck in the full boost position. A guy around here has been doing crappy emission deletes. He’s using a “Export” engine file made for a eXport MP with no EGR and a non-VGT turbo. Then locking the actuator in the full boost position. On the MP8 it kinda works OK up to about 42-45 psi of boost . But the MP8 I worked on started back firing through the intake/air filter at about 46-48 psi of boost .
  6. You can try the conical puller but it will probably break the cup off around the nozzle tip area. We have had the stainless cup tips break off in the head several times. We revert back to the old tap/threading tools of the copper cup days. On a couple of extreme cases we drove the tip through in to the cylinder area and pulled the exhaust manifold and dropped one of the exhaust valves down and blew air into injector hole and blew the piece out the exhaust . It worked the 2 times we tried
  7. Clusters go bad a lot on the “Grey engine trucks” ( non-MP engine trucks). When the clusters go bad there should never be a de-rate issue. You can unplug the cluster and drive it with no performance loss. If the speedo sensor fails you can get engine de-rate if that parameter is turned on. I would first un-plug the low coolant sensor in the coolant reservoir and check the harness plug for coolant. If you have coolant in the harness plug then unplug the 2 connectors on the engine ECM. Coolant in this area can cause cluster data issues.
  8. Sorry for the delay, I lost my log on and password info and finally found it to log on . I’ll try to answer your question asap
  9. You truck is at the Step 12A level and that’s the way it came from the factory. Step 12 B download wouldn’t hurt it at all. I would start battery and ground connections . Start at the battery, then starter and aux starter solenoid and ground breaker on the fire wall next to the wiper motor, this is where power and ground come into the cab. Then pull the kick panel down in front of the passenger seat , carefully go over all the wiring going to the VECU and ABS ECM’s. Spend no less than 15 min looking at this area. Look for the paint rubbed off the firewall and kick panel where the wires lay against it . Very common to have bare wires shorting there that won’t set a fault code. Then carefully pull the 2 engine ECM connectors and look for coolant or oil and corrosion from leaking sensors . Also check for broken baffles in the muffler that can randomly clog the exhaust flow. Lastly , if the engine has a powerleash engine brake, pull the valve covers abs check the rocker arm hold down bolts and make sure none are broken . There is a service bulletin that’s posted here somewhere that discusses this , it leads to broken rocker arm shafts that actually lets oil into the engine brake oil passages and causes the brake to come on randomly. That’s all I can think of for now
  10. In out fleet of 25 trucks , all are 2013 or newer CXU’s or Anthems and all have T-310 trans and Mack rears . To be honest, every one of our Mack transmissions have been back to the dealership ( except the newest ones ) al least once and most twice. All having synchronizer problems. 25% of the problem is driver abuse/ improper range shifting. The other 75% are loose range shift fork set screws or loose rear yoke bolts . Years ago Mack used safety wire on the fork set screws , if they started doing that again it would help out a lot . And if they would use red Loctite or redesign the yoke bolt it would save a lot of down time. The M-Drive automatic would work great in our live haul trucks. Our feed trucks need multiple PTO pumps and massive plumbing to the trailer. We have looked into the M-Drive and I just don’t think the room is there to rig up all our crap. Sadly we have no say in ordering our trucks . Our corporate sends us what they think we need.
  11. Mackpro

    1999 mack cn613

    Behind the kick panel in front of the passenger seat . 4 screws at top and 2 at the bottom next to the floor. Should be a ABS module next to it as well
  12. A buddy at my old dealership sent me a screenshot of someone at Mack at Hagerstown. It’s states that the last Mack manual transmission rolled of the assembly line today. I’ll try to add the screenshot as soon as possible,
  13. Looks like the Fuel MPG performance bonus/penalty has been set up to lower the road speed if a certain MPG is not achieved. These are parameters that can be turned off or adjusted by Tech Tool. Our company ordered all our CXU’s with this turned on , we later turned this off due to the amount out idle time and PTO time and stop and go driving , we could rarely get 4 mpg.
  14. Two common issues specific to the ETECH RD’s. It’s common for the when the motor mount bushings wear out , the engine ecm will contact the fuel filter mount and if it hits hard enough to put a dent in the engine ecm then it’s shorted out the ecm. Check for a dent on the ecm where it faces the fuel filter. The other issue has to do with the Vechicle Control unit ( VECU) mounted in the kick panel in front on the passenger seat. Pull the kick panel down and the if the VECU is mounted with wire connectors facing up then water drips from the windshield right into the VECU. Unplug the connectors and check for green corroded pins . We always remounted it facing down
  15. We fight this problem every it rains as well. On our CXU daycabs we find the harness shorted to ground on the inside of the driver side frame rail . About half way between the. Back of the cab and the 5 th wheel. It seems Mack only makes one length of wiring harness ( can’t remember if it’s the front or rear ) . So on the shorter wheelbase trucks where the harness is to long , Mack folds it over on top of its self and zip ties it . Over the years the excess harness rubs the frame rail that’s it’s laying on and the issue shows on rainy days .
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