Lmackattack

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Lmackattack last won the day on March 22 2013

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About Lmackattack

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    CHICAGO, IL
  • Interests
    bulldogs and boobs

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    RS700L / B613LST
  • Year
    RS 1977 / B 1965
  • Other Trucks
    there is no other truck

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  1. The superliner II that was at a company I worked for simply had the stainless breather bracket bolted to the driver side cowl with aid of a stiffener plate on the inside of the cab. it made the kick vent un usable. I have seen some superliners that had that stiffener plate on the passenger side as well. you will also want to adjust the driver door stop so that the door cant swing into the breather. again the passenger side may already have the limited swing hinge on it.
  2. I was not aware it was available that late into the 90s
  3. correct me if im wrong but wont a trans with a over drive final gear driving very fast rears give you very poor pulling ability. I can see how it might be better on fuel if the engine can maintain such low RPM on cruise but once you hit any slight grade you will need to downshift to get the RPMS back up?
  4. if its a simple 2 wire set up..... from the back of the unit just run a wire from the + post over to the battery then attach a ground wire to the frame or block. after the truck starts give it some rpm and then use the volt meter to check voltage at the battery. On my R model I am seeing 13.5 to 13.7 at my batterys and about the same on the dash gauge Or just run it over to a electrical shop and ask them what they think. I know the 22SI had different options how they were equipped.
  5. well done Larry ...Got to have fun even if you dont win it all. I have yet to figure out this kind of drag racing where you have to call your dial in time or what ever. I enjoy the old line em up and run. he who is fastest wins. I can understand having brackets where you have a weight or power class etc... I just cant follow the dial in times and if you go faster than that you get thrown out.
  6. I noticed the hint of a RD fender as well and it also looked like it has a wheel opening kinda like a old R model. That would be cool if it they pulled it off right. I never really had a complaint about the CH cab as it was roomy. It is up there with age and really the only thing most of them lacked was a nice dash. they have improved on that over the years. I wish they would get away from naming the truck line up. For example Who names a truck after a golf ball? They should go mack to calling it a "X" Model or "X" 600. it was a much better way to denote what it was and equipped with. Locomotive MFG and most other large MFG still use that method and its easy to follow. still is a shame that you cant get big HP in a Mack. How Volvo cant see this is beyond me. Its been 30 years but to see all the Mack westerns equipped with different power and trans options really set the truck apart from a fleet spec. Sad that Mack even before volvo ownership has been shy to this market for 2 decades. Hope the truck looks good and they drop the
  7. Thank you Vlad... I had the truck on a solar power trickle charger for the last few days. its keeping voltage at 12.5 during they day. When I started it voltage at the battery was a little higher than 13.5 so I guess its doing what it should. after some research I also noticed that my unit does not have a 2nd + post like some Delco Remy units have. the delcos have a "smart sense" option. It seams the delco units have a wire that goes to the starter and another wire directly to the battery. the delco units will self regulate making sure that 14.5 is always going to the batterys. I guess it can better see if the battery is seeing all that the unit is really putting out? The truck starts fine and in excites as soon as I touch the pedal I just fount it odd that I could see 14.7 when the battery was disconnected but 13.5 when they were in the system
  8. First question is this a internal regulated unit or a non regulated unit. ? I think the 22si could be had both ways. Most people today buy internal regulated as its less wireing. if it is internal regulated you just need a thick red wire from the unit to the + side of the battery and a good ground wire to the block or frame. if you start the truck and voltage stays 14.5 or less you are good. if it is above that it likely needs a external regulator. Still Best to find out before. The "R" puts out 1/2 the voltage used for other stuff that you likely dont have. one other thing is some units need to see RPM before they start charging. so after you fire it up give it some RPM to excite it.
  9. Only thing keeping me here in shitcagoland. is old friends and family. once they are gone so am I
  10. not a Mack but this happened in the CP Rails Franklin park yard about a week ago. Trumble has a yard on the property. looks like they were doing some yard repairs when it tangled with a backing train. the train was only doing about 5-10 mph
  11. CH cab with a Pinnacle hood on a Volvo frame with a Volvo drivetrain and new headlights. HOW NEW!
  12. throw some grease on the frame so the tires dont wear down and steer a 1/2 turn left and you are go to go!
  13. Been having what I think is an on going charging issue with my RS700 that I decided to dig into. I only have two 12v batterys installed in the truck (made by Interstate). One is brand new the other is 4 years old but load tested good. When the truck is running (2000RPM) the dash gauge shows I only have 12v (no lights on). Testing voltage at the battery cables again with engine running at 2000RPM I see slightly higher 12.8V. I pulled the Alternator and had it tested at a reputable rebuilder (not a big box auto store) and its putting out a respectable 14.8v . He suggested I run a wire from the Alternator direct to the battery. Doing so I was able to get 13.2v at the battery cables, still well below the 14.8 it can put out. When I unhook both positive cables from the batterys with the truck running at 2000RPM I have 14.8 at the alternator. the dash gauge is showing 14.8v and 14.8v at the cable ends. As soon as I connect to one battery it drops to 14v at the cable ends. and when I connect to the 2nd battery im back down to 13.2v at the cable ends. To sum it up I have a alternator that can put out 14.8v at 2000rpm with batterys connected I only see 13.2v at the cables with batterys connected I only see 12.8v on my dash gauge my dash gauge says im lousing 2 volts somewhere in the charging system with no lights on with lights on my dash gauge is showing 12v Thoughts?
  14. The truck John posted of the logging RS700...that grill is one piece . I agree a HD bumper may have allowed them to omit the lower part of the grill but I have never seen one like that before. I cant see if it has panels behind it but It does not look like it? Im glad they went with the later style as it adds to the truck much better.
  15. ^Ouch....that does not look good^