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1 hour ago, harrybarbon said:

Are the aluminium fuel tankers sealed or lined to cart gas/petrol? Or just bare aluminium?

possibly there isn't a need for sealed/lined tankers : 1- product doesn't stay in the tank for days or longer ;2- the owners of the tankers don't care , they don't use the product. and yes they still must own a gas vehicle to which they fill up at a gas station =after the delivered product sits in an under ground alum storage tank . in that case , we ALL put gas in our private vehicles which came from alum storage tanks. crap gas stored in alum tanks.

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Latest update, I'm just waiting for tank rubber. Meanwhile I took the vent out of the old tank and shook it. Nothing happened. Then I tried to blow through it. Nothing happened. I wasn't even sure if anything was supposed to happen, because I'm not even sure how they work. But I cut the bottom off of an aluminum can and put the vent in it and sprayed carburetor cleaner in it until it was covered. Now when I shake it it rattles, because it has like a check ball in it that was stuck. And I can blow through it easily now, so that's good. 

And I tried to take a cab marker light off because it wasn't working but the screw is stripped in the screwdriver slot and won't budge, and that's bad. But at least the light started working, so that's good. If I can get them off I'll see if I can find LED lights the same size and replace them all.

And I should probably replace the generator that's on it with an alternator.  

And I will have to find a starter soon, because the Bendix doesn't engage about half the time, so you just have to keep trying until it does.

 

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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3 minutes ago, other dog said:

Oh, almost forgot- while I was cutting the bottom off of the aluminum can with my pocket knife this girl pulled in the driveway.

She was asking for directions to Winfall, but I told her I was busy and didn't have time to talk and sent her on her way.

FB_IMG_1713371664785.thumb.jpg.2f307192fdb5906a04edd834c3168f20.jpg

 

Uh huh ok Raphie!!!!

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1 hour ago, other dog said:

Latest update, I'm just waiting for tank rubber. Meanwhile I took the vent out of the old tank and shook it. Nothing happened. Then I tried to blow through it. Nothing happened. I wasn't even sure if anything was supposed to happen, because I'm not even sure how they work. But I cut the bottom off of an aluminum can and put the vent in it and sprayed carburetor cleaner in it until it was covered. Now when I shake it it rattles, because it has like a check ball in it that was stuck. And I can blow through it easily now, so that's good. 

And I tried to take a cab marker light off because it wasn't working but the screw is stripped in the screwdriver slot and won't budge, and that's bad. But at least the light started working, so that's good. If I can get them off I'll see if I can find LED lights the same size and replace them all.

And I should probably replace the generator that's on it with an alternator.  

And I will have to find a starter soon, because the Bendix doesn't engage about half the time, so you just have to keep trying until it does.

 

besides all the fun; think of all the history you are saving. also rattle in vent is definite better. little metal ball lets pressure out and keeps foreign from going in.

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2 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

besides all the fun; think of all the history you are saving. also rattle in vent is definite better. little metal ball lets pressure out and keeps foreign from going in.

apologize Sir didn't intend to double up on your statement. I did NOT read back that far.

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7 hours ago, other dog said:

So, what is this "electronic throttle body fuel injection" of which you speak? I don't care about stock or original, I just want it to run like it's supposed to.

I nothing about this brand, but a quick few seconds on Google 

 

https://affordable-fuel-injection.com/product/intl-harvester-complete-tbi-system/

 

Holley and other companies make a similar thing 

Turns something with a carby and points that you have adjust and fiddle with into like modern car type of motor

 

Paul

 

 

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2 hours ago, other dog said:

Latest update, I'm just waiting for tank rubber. Meanwhile I took the vent out of the old tank and shook it. Nothing happened. Then I tried to blow through it. Nothing happened. I wasn't even sure if anything was supposed to happen, because I'm not even sure how they work. But I cut the bottom off of an aluminum can and put the vent in it and sprayed carburetor cleaner in it until it was covered. Now when I shake it it rattles, because it has like a check ball in it that was stuck. And I can blow through it easily now, so that's good. 

 

I would guess if you had cleaned that breather earlier the truck would eat all the organic from the tank even together with algea and alu brightener.

But that's of no matter now and doubtly you would like to provide experiments putting the old tank on and putting old dirty gas in it.

P.S. The girl worth a half of the thread.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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1 hour ago, other dog said:

I was going to Covington with a load of wood chips one time, 1979. I was driving a '74 Transtar with a VT903 in it and halfway up this really steep hill called Buffalo Ridge it just quit. Like it was out of fuel. Stopped dead in the road. I knew I had plenty of fuel, I think it was 4 loads I could run from Dillwyn to Covington before I had to fuel, maybe 3, but anyway I knew I had plenty.

However, even though I knew I had plenty of fuel and there had to be some other problem I looked in the fuel tank anyway and there was no fuel to be seen. Then I went around and checked the tank on the passenger side and fuel was running out of the top of the tank as soon as I unscrewed it. About that time a car pulled up behind me and I told the man in it that I was broke down. He offered me a ride to the nearest phone to call headquarters, and I accepted. This was long before cell phones of course. I told him just let me go put that fuel cap back on and set out my triangles first. 

When I walked back up the hill to the truck I put the cap back on and noticed that the fuel had gone down a lot. So I got in and tried to start it again and it fired right up. I went on to Covington and dumped with no problems then went by the shop so they could fix that vent. I just loosened the cap a little until I got back, but it had sucked the left tank completely empty and the right tank was still completely full.

I had similar problems with the vents freezing shut in the real cold weather. At first I thought it was the cross over line with a slug of water in it (low point in the system) but  later I realized that if I took the cap off it would flow to the draw tank. Seamed to happen when I was running in real cold weather (-20 to -30f)  fuel and air in the tank were warm enough but the moisture in the warm tank would freeze the vent.

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1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I nothing about this brand, but a quick few seconds on Google 

 

https://affordable-fuel-injection.com/product/intl-harvester-complete-tbi-system/

 

Holley and other companies make a similar thing 

Turns something with a carby and points that you have adjust and fiddle with into like modern car type of motor

 

Paul

 

 

Hamilton Fuel injection is another one. The TBI are more or less GM TBI clones. I don't like TBI as it has most of the vaporization and throttle icing problems of a carb without the advantages of port injection.

 I don't know that one is made to feed that big LV engine either.

 

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That big gas engine likely has the same carburator base as a Holley 4150.  I think that one easy plug n play one is a (Sniper) ?   Get some clean gas to the engine , I think I'd be more worried about heat'n up the ignition some way.  I'd imagine someone makes something that can make it transistorized instead of points. A nice hot high energy ignition will be harder than a good rebuild on a old Holley. ( I'm assuming it has some form of Holley on it).  401 might only be a 2 barrel .  Either way, a kit probably is available .

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1 hour ago, other dog said:

I was going to Covington with a load of wood chips one time, 1979. I was driving a '74 Transtar with a VT903 in it and halfway up this really steep hill called Buffalo Ridge it just quit. Like it was out of fuel. Stopped dead in the road. I knew I had plenty of fuel, I think it was 4 loads I could run from Dillwyn to Covington before I had to fuel, maybe 3, but anyway I knew I had plenty.

However, even though I knew I had plenty of fuel and there had to be some other problem I looked in the fuel tank anyway and there was no fuel to be seen. Then I went around and checked the tank on the passenger side and fuel was running out of the top of the tank as soon as I unscrewed it. About that time a car pulled up behind me and I told the man in it that I was broke down. He offered me a ride to the nearest phone to call headquarters, and I accepted. This was long before cell phones of course. I told him just let me go put that fuel cap back on and set out my triangles first. 

When I walked back up the hill to the truck I put the cap back on and noticed that the fuel had gone down a lot. So I got in and tried to start it again and it fired right up. I went on to Covington and dumped with no problems then went by the shop so they could fix that vent. I just loosened the cap a little until I got back, but it had sucked the left tank completely empty and the right tank was still completely full.

Sounds like what happened to me but I ran out of Fuel on Caryville Mountain in Tennessee. My problem wasn't the vent either. Mechanic mixed up the lines when he put the tank back on. 

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for ;points elimination, you really can not beat the pertronix ignitor. uses the factory distributor, cap, and rotor. all you need to do is remove the points, put the pickup in their place, slip the magnet over the distributor shaft under the rotor, and run the two wires out to the coil.

after install i usually open the plug gap up a little, and advance timing around 4-5 degrees. 

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when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

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4 hours ago, other dog said:

I was going to Covington with a load of wood chips one time, 1979. I was driving a '74 Transtar with a VT903 in it and halfway up this really steep hill called Buffalo Ridge it just quit. Like it was out of fuel. Stopped dead in the road. I knew I had plenty of fuel, I think it was 4 loads I could run from Dillwyn to Covington before I had to fuel, maybe 3, but anyway I knew I had plenty.

However, even though I knew I had plenty of fuel and there had to be some other problem I looked in the fuel tank anyway and there was no fuel to be seen. Then I went around and checked the tank on the passenger side and fuel was running out of the top of the tank as soon as I unscrewed it. About that time a car pulled up behind me and I told the man in it that I was broke down. He offered me a ride to the nearest phone to call headquarters, and I accepted. This was long before cell phones of course. I told him just let me go put that fuel cap back on and set out my triangles first. 

When I walked back up the hill to the truck I put the cap back on and noticed that the fuel had gone down a lot. So I got in and tried to start it again and it fired right up. I went on to Covington and dumped with no problems then went by the shop so they could fix that vent. I just loosened the cap a little until I got back, but it had sucked the left tank completely empty and the right tank was still completely full.

before the days of the poppit ball vent , tanks had the 1/4 copper tubing which came straight off the 90 degree fitting = out couple of inches then had a towards the sky bend which looped back down 1 1/2.  never had to worry about a ball sticking; only situation was the darn bees making a nest and clogging the pipe! LOL

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1 hour ago, tjc transport said:

for ;points elimination, you really can not beat the pertronix ignitor. uses the factory distributor, cap, and rotor. all you need to do is remove the points, put the pickup in their place, slip the magnet over the distributor shaft under the rotor, and run the two wires out to the coil.

after install i usually open the plug gap up a little, and advance timing around 4-5 degrees. 

I put some of that aluminum brightener on a rag and tried to clean off the timing marks. Sprayed it with carburetor cleaner too, and rubbed it with fine sandpaper. I still can't read any marks on it. 

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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While I would agree with the above in general, I have learned from experience on "heavy duty" spark ign engines without vacuum advance, that getting it right on spec does bring advantages. So worth the effort if you can.   If you can't then at least you can get somewhat close.

 

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