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other dog

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17 minutes ago, other dog said:

My fuel tank strap rubber came late this afternoon, too late for me to start working on anything anyway. I also ordered a new sending unit when I ordered the rubber. I thought one would have came with the tank but it didn't, it came with nothing- no fittings, no plugs, no nuthin'. I didn't want to use the old one because it still had black gunk on it that carburetor cleaner wouldn't take off.

So since I got a new sending unit I figured I'd just get a fuel gauge too. Thought I just had to hook a wire to the sending unit and run it to the gauge, but nothing is ever simple. I got to step 2 on the instructions and said "WTF?"

PXL_20240419_231708658.thumb.jpg.83093e1ecbb2e186085e7f4c2a32fbc0.jpg

I have a multimeter that somebody gave me a few years ago, but I don't even know how to use it.

But no worries, I still have a stick in the side box that I can check the gas with. Even I can run the measuring stick.

There are at least 1/2 dozen sending unit profiles that were or are in use. No "one size fits all" Old AC, new AC, King Seeley, VDO, SW, and more that I can't remember right now. Some are easier to come by then others.

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13 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

G.W.  is is the right one for my '48 KB-7,,BD 269?

No the BLD takes an SAE-1 mount. Early RED (Big IHC six) used the SAE-1 also, then at some point (may be when the big six became the "RD" series), they went with the SAE-2 and a bigger starter.

 The MT-30 looks a lot like a scaled down MT-40. Bolt on and rotatable nose cone and 3 equally spaced bolts but unlike the big truck starter that have 5/8" bolt hole, the MT30's are smaller (7/16"?)

from  left to right: SAE1, SAE2, SAE3

CIMG3923.JPG

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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Yep,, you told me that a year ago,,  thanks..  I pushed it into my shop earlier..  going to lay out the new wiring for it, a little at a time. 

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10 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

That is fine, the offer is open to anyone who can use it. I have no use for it (anymore) and hate to see it go to scrap or just sit in my storage trailer.

 It does seam (Delco MT-30) to be a orphan, and the SAE-2 mount is not being made or at least not found on newer starters, so if you have something with one, used may be your only choice.

 SAE-3 and SAE-1 starters are commonplace and you can buy new.

Well let me know before you throw it away, I'll look at mine when I take it off and if it's the same starter I'll pay to have it shipped. Most of the ones I looked at on the old International site were around $300. I put a starter on the pickup last year and was astonished at the price, about 3 times what I was expecting it to be.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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Confirmed 1113218 as the complete model number of the MT-30 I have, which is correct for an RD inline. Shaft turns by hand, but I didn't lug a battery to it or it to a battery to see if it will motor.

Given how long it has been sitting I would go through it anyway, but I can confirm with a battery if someone is serious about it.

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trucks looking real sharp. the alum tank definitely sets it off . it is  with out a doubt different then most. not just the model of the truck it self but the sleeper cab/ vizor/ and the one large trumpet on top just to name a few of the oddities . 

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15 hours ago, other dog said:

Got that tank on today. It has some issues, but it's on.

PXL_20240420_190011831.thumb.jpg.7edbf5006650bd7c4ef3d1b3c0916450.jpg

Has about 3 1/2 inches of gas in it, according to my stick. 

 Definitely a nice ride!👍terry:MackLogo:

Edited by terry
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OD, just take the sender and touch to your frame and then attach existing wire.  Move the arm to full and empty and see if gauge reads correctly.  Most gauges respond slowly so it may take a few seconds to see gauge move.

 

There are a few variants of sending units that have different resistance to make gauge respond correctly.  90 ohm, 270 ohm, etc.

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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18 hours ago, Freightrain said:

OD, just take the sender and touch to your frame and then attach existing wire.  Move the arm to full and empty and see if gauge reads correctly.  Most gauges respond slowly so it may take a few seconds to see gauge move.

 

There are a few variants of sending units that have different resistance to make gauge respond correctly.  90 ohm, 270 ohm, etc.

I got a gas gauge when I got the sending unit, but it didn't get a bracket because it was almost as much as the gauge. You'd think it would come with a bracket but it didn't. I figured I'd pick up a "cheap"- if there's any such thing anymore- oil pressure or temp. gauge at the parts store for it and use the bracket. The original gauge in the truck didn't budge. But I still have my stick.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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Usually grounding the sending unit wire should make the gauge show full.  That is a good test to confirm the gauge even works.  If it works and the new sending unit doesn't, then it is the incorrect resistance (or the tank isn't grounded well enough).  May need it's own small wire coming off the sending unit mounting screws to the frame.

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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I'm going out there and try to see what I can see on the carburetor but I'm waiting for it to warm up a little. We had frost here this morning and it's only up to the lower 50's now. I'm going to try to take that pressure regulator off and look at it. I won't know what I'm looking at, but I'll look.

The gas had to go through 3 filters before it got that far but that doesn't mean much, it was still running on that crappy gas when it was running. It has the in-line filter, a little canister type filter, then the electric fuel pump has a filter in it too.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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Nothing to the regulator.  Spring loaded diaphragm against a needle/seat.  The nut on the top is jam nut, loosen and turn Allen wrench CW to increase pressure, CCW to lower pressure.  Don't have to remove it unless you want to.  Depends if you can reach it on the engine?  I've learned to dread leaning over fenders anymore.  Tilt hoods RULE!

 

I was going to get wagon loaded in trailer yesterday but it was 38* at lunch and barely mid 40s in afternoon.  Too freaking cold to work outside.  Likely take Friday off since it will be near 70s.  Suppose to go to test n tune with Buddy on Saturday.  First time his car will be out in a couple years.

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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3 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Usually grounding the sending unit wire should make the gauge show full.  That is a good test to confirm the gauge even works.  If it works and the new sending unit doesn't, then it is the incorrect resistance (or the tank isn't grounded well enough).  May need it's own small wire coming off the sending unit mounting screws to the frame.

I think the OEM gauge would be the same one used on the lighter R/S series and will be the late King Seeley  type thermal gauge.

 These are like Ford and Chry used in the 60's and 70's, with a "regulator" ahead of the gauges and a resistance type sender. The regulators go bad and the gauges also. This is if you want to use the OEM gauge in the dash, if you are hanging another gauge, then never mind.

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Yup, didn't think about the voltage regulator that typical cars have on the back of the dash.  It could be dead and cause lack of reading.  I suppose checking for voltage on lead to sending unit would be a good start.  I think it is like 9v?

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

Yup, didn't think about the voltage regulator that typical cars have on the back of the dash.  It could be dead and cause lack of reading.  I suppose checking for voltage on lead to sending unit would be a good start.  I think it is like 9v?

It is not a steady voltage but pulses on and off.  Of course, since it is in series, there has to be a path to ground. A test light works better than a meter in this case.

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