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Tommy- for the alternator/generator and the starter, if you need anything and cannot find it and want to get what you have rebuilt, I highly recommend Vineland Auto Electric in Vineland New Jersey. They are HIGHLY regarded in the antique firetruck world for electrical components and systems. 

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TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS

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1 hour ago, tjc transport said:

i very rarely use timing marks because they either are unreadable, or simply not there.  i time by ear. 

advance a touch and go for a ride. if it don't ping under full throttle, advance a little more. i keep advancing until i get ping under full throttle, than back off a bit. 

that usually gives me most power, and still spin over good for starting hot. 

That's exactly how I learned to Time an Engine. I remember I timed my 400M in my 79 Bronco then it got sent to the shop for some other things. I've know the owner since I was little and he asked me if I timed it by ear and when I said yes he laughed alil and said I was only about MAYBE a 10th off after checking it with his timing light. 

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7 hours ago, 1958 F.W.D. said:

Tommy- for the alternator/generator and the starter, if you need anything and cannot find it and want to get what you have rebuilt, I highly recommend Vineland Auto Electric in Vineland New Jersey. They are HIGHLY regarded in the antique firetruck world for electrical components and systems. 

Thank you, I checked with oldInternationaltrucks.com and they have starters for about every International engine there is- except the 401. Same for carburetor kits, I didn't see one listed for the 401 engine. I've rebuilt a starter or two myself, and generators too. Pretty easy actually, but you still need the parts, like the brushes, bushings, etc. But when it comes to carburetors- I'm afraid to touch 'em.

 There's a place in Roanoke that I got a positive ground alternator from for a B53S Mack I used to have. I called them and asked if they could rebuild the starter and they said "absolutely". So I'll probably just take it off one day and take it up there. I don't remember how much they charged for that alternator, but I remember that it was much cheaper than I was expecting it to be.

There was nothing wrong with the alternator until someone was putting new batteries in the truck and forgot that it was positive ground. I- I mean they- touched the cables to the wrong post for just a second, and that was all it took. Fried.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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19 hours ago, tjc transport said:

for ;points elimination, you really can not beat the pertronix ignitor. uses the factory distributor, cap, and rotor. all you need to do is remove the points, put the pickup in their place, slip the magnet over the distributor shaft under the rotor, and run the two wires out to the coil.

after install i usually open the plug gap up a little, and advance timing around 4-5 degrees. 

Now this is something that I would definitely be interested in. As soon as I can positively ID what kind of distributor is in it I'll try to get one. They probably have one for everything but a 401 IH.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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1 hour ago, other dog said:

Now this is something that I would definitely be interested in. As soon as I can positively ID what kind of distributor is in it I'll try to get one. They probably have one for everything but a 401 IH.

Most of the upgrades require 12 volts to the distributor . IDK if the truck uses a balast resistor (or wire) , but I know  most need 12 volts . The Petronix distributors are emphatic about that when you buy the whole distributor I know.

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6 hours ago, other dog said:

Thank you, I checked with oldInternationaltrucks.com and they have starters for about every International engine there is- except the 401. Same for carburetor kits, I didn't see one listed for the 401 engine. I've rebuilt a starter or two myself, and generators too. Pretty easy actually, but you still need the parts, like the brushes, bushings, etc. But when it comes to carburetors- I'm afraid to touch 'em.

 There's a place in Roanoke that I got a positive ground alternator from for a B53S Mack I used to have. I called them and asked if they could rebuild the starter and they said "absolutely". So I'll probably just take it off one day and take it up there. I don't remember how much they charged for that alternator, but I remember that it was much cheaper than I was expecting it to be.

There was nothing wrong with the alternator until someone was putting new batteries in the truck and forgot that it was positive ground. I- I mean they- touched the cables to the wrong post for just a second, and that was all it took. Fried.

I may have a starter for that. They use a type that is kind of rare, an SAE 2 if it is the starter I am thinking of. You can have it for free, but getting it to you would cost more than it is worth last time I looked into it. I might also be able to ID what carb it has or should have on it

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Just checked, it is the one I am thinking about an MT-30 with SAE #2 mount. The one I have came off an RD inline and is one digit different (according the the catalog, I haven't looked at/for the tag on it) but is also the MT-30 with SAE #2.

 I don't have spec's on the drives, but wouldn't be surprised they were the same.

If you have a cost effective way to get it from western Iowa, it is yours for the asking.

According to my Delco book it should have a 1113217 starter, and the one I have "should be" an 1113218 for an RD inline.

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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Tried to do some more digging on the starter numbers.  Same basic model so it might be as little as how the nose cone is indexed, or could be a different drive. Either way I am finding rebuilds in the upper $300 to mid $400 range plus core charge.

 If you just want it for a spare/core it would be worth having around, SAE #2 housings are not common any more.

 I think this one spins, I haven't tried it, but if you are interested, I'll dig it out and put a battery one it.

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17 hours ago, other dog said:

Now this is something that I would definitely be interested in. As soon as I can positively ID what kind of distributor is in it I'll try to get one. They probably have one for everything but a 401 IH.

I looked in my books, and there are a few Dist it could have. Also depends if it is driven from the front of the engine or back. (Fire trucks had two, both front and back and dual plug heads) I would guess single could have either depending on what the engine was in. There was also a early "transistorized" ign at one point (looks to be early GM), and to my surprise it did have vacuum advance. 

Also makes a difference if it had a cable tach or Gov and cable tach, or just gov. 

 So tag number is going to be needed

 Early IHC used Delco dist but Prestolite and Holley were also used so to be sure get the tag number.

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You could pull #1 plug, use some form of measuring stick to determine TDC and use that to mark the damper(or find the mark that should be pointing at damper).  Then you know where to start.  I have a timing light with variable timing so it is easy to set at any number you want just using the TDC mark.

 

Seeing the truck won't see any heavy load, it likely could survive on a bit more advanced then stock.  Not like you're in a race anyway.... 😆 

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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20 hours ago, Mark T said:

Carb kits are on Ebay.  If that's a two barrel it's likely a 852FFG.    I have an old Chiltons book Iv'e been looking at here.  That truck reminds me so much of my uncle's dump truck when I was little.  Hit a soft spot or something.

Yep, that's what it is. Fuzzy Buzzard sent me a lot of useful info. about it.

Screenshot_20240415-130307.thumb.png.3c17377615f18378f4f6b8f3efe367ef.png

 

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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On 4/18/2024 at 2:02 PM, other dog said:

There was nothing wrong with the alternator until someone was putting new batteries in the truck and forgot that it was positive ground. 

What kind of a dumbass would do that?

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TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS

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2 hours ago, other dog said:

Yep, that's what it is. Fuzzy Buzzard sent me a lot of useful info. about it.

Screenshot_20240415-130307.thumb.png.3c17377615f18378f4f6b8f3efe367ef.png

 

So it does look like it has the Holley dist.

 Let me know if you want the starter (free), I could try and box it up but last time I looked for a guy it was real expensive to ship, but if someone was passing through...

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4 hours ago, other dog said:

Yep, that's what it is. Fuzzy Buzzard sent me a lot of useful info. about it.

Screenshot_20240415-130307.thumb.png.3c17377615f18378f4f6b8f3efe367ef.png

 

That's about all the information that's in the Chilton book. The book isn't specific to the truck, it covers several. But if you think it'd be of any help, I'd ship it to you.

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My fuel tank strap rubber came late this afternoon, too late for me to start working on anything anyway. I also ordered a new sending unit when I ordered the rubber. I thought one would have came with the tank but it didn't, it came with nothing- no fittings, no plugs, no nuthin'. I didn't want to use the old one because it still had black gunk on it that carburetor cleaner wouldn't take off.

So since I got a new sending unit I figured I'd just get a fuel gauge too. Thought I just had to hook a wire to the sending unit and run it to the gauge, but nothing is ever simple. I got to step 2 on the instructions and said "WTF?"

PXL_20240419_231708658.thumb.jpg.83093e1ecbb2e186085e7f4c2a32fbc0.jpg

I have a multimeter that somebody gave me a few years ago, but I don't even know how to use it.

But no worries, I still have a stick in the side box that I can check the gas with. Even I can run the measuring stick.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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2 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

So it does look like it has the Holley dist.

 Let me know if you want the starter (free), I could try and box it up but last time I looked for a guy it was real expensive to ship, but if someone was passing through...

I sure appreciate your very kind offer, that's really nice of you. But I think I'll just get my starter rebuilt at the place in Roanoke and see how it goes. At least for now.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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That is fine, the offer is open to anyone who can use it. I have no use for it (anymore) and hate to see it go to scrap or just sit in my storage trailer.

 It does seam (Delco MT-30) to be a orphan, and the SAE-2 mount is not being made or at least not found on newer starters, so if you have something with one, used may be your only choice.

 SAE-3 and SAE-1 starters are commonplace and you can buy new.

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