Geoff Weeks

I don't know when you tried, but when I needed a rugged phone I found a flip phone that was rugged and could be ordered with or without a camera for secure locations. Most at Verizon had never heard of the model, said it didn't exist, but I pushed until I found someone who did know and get what I wanted. They want to sell what they stock, not what you want.

picky linky no worky

I'd rather be a seppo that septic anyway!

Nope, we're "septic's" in Aussi slang. I guess it depends on how polite they want to be.

Yep, same with Interstate McBee, have to go through a dealer. Kind of a pain, but I understand it. Once you find someone local you can use or a good internet supplier, it is almost like having an account. I had a good Internet one that turned bad, so I can't recommend them, Toward the end I was using Vandehaag's for S&S (Newstar) and Interstate McBee. I could call up with the part number and they would order without a deposit or having to go to them.

If you have checked for a vacuum leak (unmetered air entering after the carb). take a good look at the distributor. Any play in the shaft can cause the dwell to go haywire when the advance starts to pull in. I'd 1st check the carb and intake for reason why it seams to be lean. But if you find nothing wrong look at the ign side of things. I had a 392 in a school bus that was in a shop for a valve job. Wouldn't run for crap and the shop wanted to put a new carb on, I wouldn't authorize it as I knew the carb was fine. They put one on to "show me" and it didn't run any better, had egg on their face and had to re-install the old carb and eat the price of the new one. Put a dwell meter on the ign and strapped to the windshield, and as soon as the advance started the dwell dropped to nothing. Long and short was the shaft bushing were shot and it needed a distributor. Also make sure the mechanical advance is free and the weights can move the shaft. Use a mighty vac to test the vacuum advance. It would act like fuel, stubble and back-fire with an occasional after-fire. I had to farm out the valve job because the place I was working, caring for their fleet, the bus took up the whole shop and was very difficult to get it in under its own power, would have been impossible to get it out and back in while the heads were being worked on. There is an old saying that 90% of carb problems are ign problems.

You really need to ascertain if the diff lock's are on or just the light. Side to side locks will be evident if you try to make a sharp turn, PDL (interaxle) will not be quite as evident. None the less I think it is highly unlikely the locks are on and you don't know it. Much more likely a switch or wire is the problem. You can take the air lines off the actuators and throw the switch one way and then the other, you should get air in one position and not in the other. Truck may need to be in "running down the road" (brakes released) condition for this test, so wheels blocked so it can't move. In the years I worked on stuff they could be air apply or air to release (reverse air) but I think everything today is air apply. (IHC and some Dana axles could have reverse air) I don't know about Mack axles. You will likely need wiring diagrams to track down how the light is lit and which wires to look at. Running around in the locked position will cause excessive tire wear and long term will damage the diff's so get to the bottom of it.

I doubt you are running the stock gauges on your race car, so you wouldn't be using one, unless for fuel, but that would be a cell no? They worked fairly well but were a known weak point. Early King Seeley gauges had that part in the sender itself and those senders are hard to come by now. I don't know when Ford and Chry phased out the K-S gauges early 80's?

It is not a steady voltage but pulses on and off. Of course, since it is in series, there has to be a path to ground. A test light works better than a meter in this case.

I think the OEM gauge would be the same one used on the lighter R/S series and will be the late King Seeley type thermal gauge. These are like Ford and Chry used in the 60's and 70's, with a "regulator" ahead of the gauges and a resistance type sender. The regulators go bad and the gauges also. This is if you want to use the OEM gauge in the dash, if you are hanging another gauge, then never mind.

My year Goldwing was the last with the kick-start as well as electric.

Confirmed 1113218 as the complete model number of the MT-30 I have, which is correct for an RD inline. Shaft turns by hand, but I didn't lug a battery to it or it to a battery to see if it will motor. Given how long it has been sitting I would go through it anyway, but I can confirm with a battery if someone is serious about it.

My thoughts are: If it isn't leaking why worry? If it is, I would note how far the pulley flange and impeller are pressed on the shaft, then disassemble. with the shaft and bearings out of the housing you can assess the housing, and what went wrong. New bearings and seal and any repairs needed. Really only way forward on something like that. Waterpumps are fairly simple devices. The only caveat is to be careful not to damage the impeller, housing or shaft when taking apart. Make a puller to pull the pulley flange off, look at the impeller for puller holes, if there are none, the likely the shaft and impeller can be pressed out the back together and separated on the bench if you even need too. Going together make sure to press the flange back to the same depth while supporting the impeller end, the depth is what puts the preload on the shaft seal. NO HAMMERING. Did my share on the British Buses when parts were not available, or at least not readily available on this side of the pond. Industrial pump seals are made in most types and sizes and it is a good bet the Mack pump uses one of them.

No the BLD takes an SAE-1 mount. Early RED (Big IHC six) used the SAE-1 also, then at some point (may be when the big six became the "RD" series), they went with the SAE-2 and a bigger starter. The MT-30 looks a lot like a scaled down MT-40. Bolt on and rotatable nose cone and 3 equally spaced bolts but unlike the big truck starter that have 5/8" bolt hole, the MT30's are smaller (7/16"?) from left to right: SAE1, SAE2, SAE3

There are at least 1/2 dozen sending unit profiles that were or are in use. No "one size fits all" Old AC, new AC, King Seeley, VDO, SW, and more that I can't remember right now. Some are easier to come by then others.

That is fine, the offer is open to anyone who can use it. I have no use for it (anymore) and hate to see it go to scrap or just sit in my storage trailer. It does seam (Delco MT-30) to be a orphan, and the SAE-2 mount is not being made or at least not found on newer starters, so if you have something with one, used may be your only choice. SAE-3 and SAE-1 starters are commonplace and you can buy new.

So it does look like it has the Holley dist. Let me know if you want the starter (free), I could try and box it up but last time I looked for a guy it was real expensive to ship, but if someone was passing through...

He'll always be racing the fuel gauge to the fuel stop!

I looked in my books, and there are a few Dist it could have. Also depends if it is driven from the front of the engine or back. (Fire trucks had two, both front and back and dual plug heads) I would guess single could have either depending on what the engine was in. There was also a early "transistorized" ign at one point (looks to be early GM), and to my surprise it did have vacuum advance. Also makes a difference if it had a cable tach or Gov and cable tach, or just gov. So tag number is going to be needed Early IHC used Delco dist but Prestolite and Holley were also used so to be sure get the tag number.

Tried to do some more digging on the starter numbers. Same basic model so it might be as little as how the nose cone is indexed, or could be a different drive. Either way I am finding rebuilds in the upper $300 to mid $400 range plus core charge. If you just want it for a spare/core it would be worth having around, SAE #2 housings are not common any more. I think this one spins, I haven't tried it, but if you are interested, I'll dig it out and put a battery one it.

Carb numbers for model 852 FFG for V-401 Manual 391-937-C91 List number (4438) Manual 391-938-C91 List number (4679) Auto trans 391-939-C91 List number (4378)

Just checked, it is the one I am thinking about an MT-30 with SAE #2 mount. The one I have came off an RD inline and is one digit different (according the the catalog, I haven't looked at/for the tag on it) but is also the MT-30 with SAE #2. I don't have spec's on the drives, but wouldn't be surprised they were the same. If you have a cost effective way to get it from western Iowa, it is yours for the asking. According to my Delco book it should have a 1113217 starter, and the one I have "should be" an 1113218 for an RD inline.

I may have a starter for that. They use a type that is kind of rare, an SAE 2 if it is the starter I am thinking of. You can have it for free, but getting it to you would cost more than it is worth last time I looked into it. I might also be able to ID what carb it has or should have on it

Welcome Pogey, 25+years ago I was moving the same type loads, 12,000 front axle with 16,000 lbs springs, 40K rears, and a 23K pusher. I took that up to 170,000 lbs a few times. I guess not much changes. I did have a lighter frame, however. 400 Cummins and Eaton 13 through a 14" organic clutch. My guess is your power is more than we had back then, but the job doesn't change. Edit: didn't notice this was an old post, and he hasn't been back since, Oh well.

Knowing the why is paramount, how can be picked-up. I was re-rationing a diff, I had the pinion at a local gear shop, and needed the spigot bearing peened on the shaft, so while it was there I had them replace the other two and set the pre-load (easy to do in a press). They gave it back with 0 preload on new bearings! When I pointed it out they claimed I didn't know what I was talking about, rather argue I brought it home and re-set. I guess theirs last long enough to get out of warranty, so good enough for them. 0 pre-load will outlast too much pre-load, but not nearly as much as correct pre-load. Knowing why is the key.