Geoff Weeks

Same with the Fleetstar A, it was a closer match to the A series, but the floor pan, firewall dash and roof were different stampings. Early Fleetstar's and Loadstars were more closely related. Look at/to the lower outer corner of the windshield, and the difference will be more evident.

Problem is, the blue goo can be forced up the stud when the flange is tightened and "glue" the cones in place. I know it happens, but the correct way is a paper gasket. If you ever have to pull one that someone used a whole tube of RTV on, you'll never install with goo again, and always use a gasket. I know one that took 3 hrs of digging to get the cones out so the axle would come out. Paper also saves you from having to clean the old blue goo off the parts.

https://speedometercablesusa.com/cables_and_housing_assembly.html Just one of a few places that come up on a search.

Aurgh, too late now, but NEVER use goop with the taper cones, it make getting them out the next time a real chore. Use a gasket. When you remove the nuts, you should just have to give the flange a rap with a hammer and the cones will pop out. When blue goo is used they stick in the hub and don't release. Blue goo can be used on axles with straight studs and plain nuts (no cones), but I used to stock the gaskets and changed every time the axle was pulled.

I saw one with 44,000lb GVW, tandem drive and juice brakes! 392 and stick. Vacuum PDL

12x 22.5 would give you the same tire size (circumference, load and rev/mile) as 11.00 x20) Likely need 9" width rim to run that size. 11x 22.5 would be one step down in size and load capacity. Going to be expensive buying rims and tires. Neither are all that common either, but still easier to come by than 11x 20's.

Air in the system can cause the safety check to lock. Basically, the cyl is double sided, fluid on both side of the piston, so for the ram to move oil has to go in one port and come out the other. So if there is no pressure (air) coming out, it slams the ports shut, preventing the ram from moving either way. There should be a bleed procedure somewhere in the manual.

Wet tank 1st after the compressor is where most of the moisture will be found. You could put them on all, but shouldn't need too. Air driers replaced the need for them.

I've made friends with a good small machine shop, He can make just about anything as long as it doesn't need a annealing oven to ether harden or anneal. His prices are too low for the work he does, and I always throw a few bucks extra when I pay him. Worth it to me.

The issue/question is NOT will one bad battery pull the others down, it will in both cases, The question was if replacing just one, will it damage the others, and there the answer is no, but all will be better in a parallel bank than a series bank after the bad battery is replaced. A series will be held to the capacity of the weakest battery Lets say you put an 8D and a lawn tractor battery together to crank a diesel, In parallel, you get the full current of the 8D and a little help from the lawn tractor battery, in series you are limited to what the lawn tractor battery can pass.

Paul I will have to disagree, not about the least resistance, but the state of charge in the battery. With the way they are charged in parallel, all the batteries see the same charge voltage, the current will flow to each as they all charge, the current may vary on how it is divided, but all will be raised to the same voltage. On in the pack that had a bad cell would get hot, and the current draw wouldn't taper to zero, but the other batteries in the pack will fully recharge. As for charging in series, it limits to all in the string. Li batteries and super capacitors are monitored and balanced individually even while being charged in series, to prevent damage from cell imbalance. It was not possible in days gone by and not economic with systems like trucks to have an active battery management system, but it would benefit from one. It is precisely why 24 volt start 12 volt run, just don't leave all the batteries in series and pull the 12 volt load off the tie between the batteries ( battery balancers or dual output alternators are used).

How did they reply to it being a Mack engine? "Oh I mean we are a Volvo dealer"?

Yes, it is a hard sell to make, BUT, as I said, if you are considering replacing your 24 volt start/ 12 volt run with a full 12 volt system, you are going to need new cables, new starter and likely new batteries. Add up all that, and the cost of only the Maxwell unit isn't as dear as it first looks. I can attest to the advantages, having a 12 volt unit, the 24 volt would only increase those advantages. Hard to justify on a "hobby" truck, more easy to on one that is out earning its keep daily.

No, it is the other way around, you can't be sure of bringing cells in series to an equal charge. All batteries in parallel "see" the same voltage, but those in series are dependent on those below and above them in the stack. In an ideal world, you would charge each cell of a battery individually, then place them in series for the work needed. That, of course is not practical, so we charge them in groups of 3 or 6. The reason they say don't just replace one battery in a series group, is it's condition will be effected by all the other in the series group. In other words, the weakest link in the chain will determine how strong the chain.

I don't know if you can still get them, but before I spent a lot of money on that system, I would look into a 24 volt Maxwell ESM. Keeps the 24 volt cranking and cables, allows you to use the two best 6 volts for the rest of the 12 volt system, and Maxwell will recharge off the 12 volts. Not cheap, but if you are planning to change to 12 volt, you have to change the starter and cables, plus a set of 12 volt batteries, that makes the Maxwell more competitive.

Gone the other way on a few axles. I look at seal and bearing numbers and then compare with what you can find in the junkyard. Converted both IHC (Spicer) and Eaton to spokes using this method. If the bearing numbers match, the thing to double check is the bearing spacing on the spindle. Otherwise take your axle model and look for Hub pilot hubs on the same axle model. That is 100% to fit, but cuts your choices by a whole lot.

1st check the power and ground for good connection, 2nd check the sensor wires they should be a twisted pair and/or shielded. If not they may be picking up stray signals from something else. Also there are different impedance pick-ups, the wrong one usually just doesn't work. Sometimes swapping wires on the sensor circuit helps if one side of the sensor is grounded. If all else fails, run a twisted pair in a shielded cable to the back of the trans to keep out stray signals.

When I see an air problem 1st thing I check is how well the truck holds air going down the road. Take it out on the expressway with a trailer (if it is a tractor) in light traffic and see how long it runs between gov cycles (blow off if it has an air drier) On the highway without using brakes, it should go a MINIMUM of 15 minutes between cycles, if it can't do that, all other "fixes" will fall short. I realize a truck in town is going to use more air than a truck on the highway, but if the system leaks going down the road, then it will use more in town. Most trucks I see fail this test if they are a few years old or older. I had mine, at one point, air ride truck and trailer, air start, go 45 minutes between cycles, that was one tight truck! 30 min is about the best I can keep mine to.

I put AD-4's on my stuff, and never had a problem. Ran air start, If I got anything out of the wet tank, it meant I needed to look into what was causing it. Most often it was air leaks. I would go 30 min between compressor cycles running down the highway. If it cycled in less than 15 min I had work to do. Air drier alone isn't much good if the air system leaks like a sieve. Air drier can't do its job if it is constantly cycling.

For what it is worth, address the heat issue, start with the radiator, if you can find a good shop anymore. I put a new rad in my truck that I always had to watch the temp on. Shortly there after I was pulling a full load over the Big Horn mts. 45 min at full throttle and 25 MPH! That will test any radiator! Anytime you can't run full power for extended period of time, you have a problem, and it will only get worse. The radiator only has to drop the coolant temp 10 deg from inlet to outlet to keep the engine cool. If it can't do that, it is telling you where the problem is.

I see the rectifier was replaced with modern diode unit. That is good. I would leave it alone, if it is working for you. Only draw back is the space it takes up. To switch to a "modern" one wire, it would either have to be case neutral or positive ground unit. OR you have switch the polarity to neg ground, which would open up the opportunity for more accessories that are neg ground only.

I doubt that would work. My dog will not react to a dog or even a wolf on the TV but will to 'yoty's in the distance. There must be frequencies that we can't hear and don't reproduce in recordings.

Hear "yoties" at night, but they will not come anywhere there is a barking dog, they have learned a barking dog brings a farmer with a gun. Not the dog they are afraid of.

I'd say if the seal came with one, yes. Stemco seals had a "wedding band" ring that gets pressed on the spindle that looked something like that. Unitized seals are one piece. You wouldn't re-use a a grit guard with a seal that didn't come with one. That is why I said, it depends on what seal you get. If the seal comes with a metal guard like that one has, you should install it. If on the other hand you get a unitized seal, you should not re-use the old grit guard. The tool to install that ring looks like a fence post driver, a piece of pipe with two handles and an adapter that fits on the tube and the ring, you hammer it home by grabbing the handles and swing along the spindle. In all cases the wear surface is replace every time the seal is changed. Unitized seals are all one piece, Stemco type are two piece, one get pressed into the hub the other pressed onto spindle.

Not exactly sure what I am looking at. However I think what you are referring to is a "grit guard" to keep the bigger dirt out of the seal. That seal is toast, and need to be replaced, regardless if it is going to seal oil or grease. So it will come down to what you can get to replace it, not what was there in the beginning. There is a lot to be said for grease bearings, esp on something not in everyday service. As far as spoke vs, disk wheel hubs, the bearing and seal is the same. I'd go to SKF's seal finder app and see what you can find that matches the bore and shaft size. If you any numbers off the old seal, that might help also.