Geoff Weeks

Tried to do some more digging on the starter numbers. Same basic model so it might be as little as how the nose cone is indexed, or could be a different drive. Either way I am finding rebuilds in the upper $300 to mid $400 range plus core charge. If you just want it for a spare/core it would be worth having around, SAE #2 housings are not common any more. I think this one spins, I haven't tried it, but if you are interested, I'll dig it out and put a battery one it.

Carb numbers for model 852 FFG for V-401 Manual 391-937-C91 List number (4438) Manual 391-938-C91 List number (4679) Auto trans 391-939-C91 List number (4378)

Just checked, it is the one I am thinking about an MT-30 with SAE #2 mount. The one I have came off an RD inline and is one digit different (according the the catalog, I haven't looked at/for the tag on it) but is also the MT-30 with SAE #2. I don't have spec's on the drives, but wouldn't be surprised they were the same. If you have a cost effective way to get it from western Iowa, it is yours for the asking. According to my Delco book it should have a 1113217 starter, and the one I have "should be" an 1113218 for an RD inline.

I may have a starter for that. They use a type that is kind of rare, an SAE 2 if it is the starter I am thinking of. You can have it for free, but getting it to you would cost more than it is worth last time I looked into it. I might also be able to ID what carb it has or should have on it

Welcome Pogey, 25+years ago I was moving the same type loads, 12,000 front axle with 16,000 lbs springs, 40K rears, and a 23K pusher. I took that up to 170,000 lbs a few times. I guess not much changes. I did have a lighter frame, however. 400 Cummins and Eaton 13 through a 14" organic clutch. My guess is your power is more than we had back then, but the job doesn't change. Edit: didn't notice this was an old post, and he hasn't been back since, Oh well.

Knowing the why is paramount, how can be picked-up. I was re-rationing a diff, I had the pinion at a local gear shop, and needed the spigot bearing peened on the shaft, so while it was there I had them replace the other two and set the pre-load (easy to do in a press). They gave it back with 0 preload on new bearings! When I pointed it out they claimed I didn't know what I was talking about, rather argue I brought it home and re-set. I guess theirs last long enough to get out of warranty, so good enough for them. 0 pre-load will outlast too much pre-load, but not nearly as much as correct pre-load. Knowing why is the key.

While I would agree with the above in general, I have learned from experience on "heavy duty" spark ign engines without vacuum advance, that getting it right on spec does bring advantages. So worth the effort if you can. If you can't then at least you can get somewhat close.

Hamilton Fuel injection is another one. The TBI are more or less GM TBI clones. I don't like TBI as it has most of the vaporization and throttle icing problems of a carb without the advantages of port injection. I don't know that one is made to feed that big LV engine either.

Perhaps this will clear it up a bit.

I had similar problems with the vents freezing shut in the real cold weather. At first I thought it was the cross over line with a slug of water in it (low point in the system) but later I realized that if I took the cap off it would flow to the draw tank. Seamed to happen when I was running in real cold weather (-20 to -30f) fuel and air in the tank were warm enough but the moisture in the warm tank would freeze the vent.

Ahh, I see I suspect that front cover that is screwed on is a dust cover keeping water and dirt out, and is a conventional clutch below that. Kind of like the old chafe shield on the Harrison A-6. I think I can see a clutch coil behind the pulley. If he has one of those, I would pull the cover so I could see what the clutch is doing. I haven't run up against one of those yet. The clutchless are a worse almost throw-a-way compressor. I was pondering how it could push instead of pull, now I don't think it has too. Thank you for the picture. I never thought much of the APADS, make it more complicated than it needed to be. I had mine set up with Hi and Lo cutoffs, and the low would lock-off until re-set. It would shut the system if 25% of the refrigerant (or there abouts) had leaked, and there was a secondary low pressure that would prevent clutch pull in below about 45 psi on the high side. One pound loss on a 4 lb system and you might not even notice it in the cooling unless very hot. It would throw some for a loop, but was like the old thermal limiter fuse GM used to use, it could shut down before all pressure is lost, keeping some oil in the compressor.

I've never seen what you are saying it has, do you have a picture? How is the pulley retained if the clutch is behind? How is the air gap adjusted? Where is the electo-magnet and how does it pull? It can't push the internal plate out so must pull something. In automotive there are some totally clutchless compressors the have a movable swash plate and a shear point on the shaft in case it locks up. Supposed to 0 out if it is low on refrigerant, and supposed to shear if the compressor locks. Lots has changed since I got out of commercial work, so am open to learning new stuff I haven't (yet) seen.

I wasn't aware of any trucks that were "clutchless" compressors (variable displacement) that turn the shaft all the time like some cars, but stand to be corrected on that. Those types have a control valve in the compressor that move the swash-plate to 0 instead of a clutch. Big pain in the rear. All others have a clutch on the front that can be observed. Sanden's I'm aware of all have clutches, with it turned off the center bolt will not spin with the pulley. If it is clutchless than there have been a lot of problems with the control valves in the compressor not moving it to high displacement. You'll see low high pressure and high low pressure. The the charge is known to be correct by weight, then we can move on to pressures and temp readings. It is possible the Tx (if used) is stuck in its lowest flow position, but my experience is that is unlikely, not impossible, but not the 1st place I jump to. Does this truck have a bunk unit also?

1st 62 deg is not good at idle unless it is 125 deg or hotter outside. Unless you removed the refrigerant, weighed it and put it back in, you can't have checked the amount in the system. Pressures in the system tell you the temp of the refrigerant, and therefore how well it is moving heat, but not how much is in the system. Until the amount in the system is known to be correct by weight, it can be impossible to diagnose further problems. Poor condenser performance is often a problem on older systems, the condenser is low an out front, and subject to all the debris and chemicals the road can throw at it. 1st order is to leak check the system, as it still has enough in it to operate. Go over the whole system with a good sniffer. pay special attention to the compressor shaft seal. Have someone raise the engine speed to around 1500 or so while you watch the compressor clutch, may be put a white mark on the face of the clutch and pulley and watch to see they are turning at the same speed (clutch not slipping). If you can't find a leak, the clutch is not slipping, then recharge with the measured amount the system calls for, and start looking at the heat loss across the condenser. gas should enter hot (almost burn you but exit warm, just above ambient. You should be able to run you hand along the tubes from top to bottom and feel a steady drop in tube temp, no cold spot and no sudden change in temp. Most system see a condensing temp (pressure) of about 30-40 deg over ambient temp, on the hottest days, the closer the temp of the refrigerant leaving the condenser the better it will cool. My truck would see temps between 15-20 deg above ambient temp on the exit of the condenser, but I over sized the condenser from stock and was running R 134a in an R 12 system, still it would get the evaporator cold enough to trigger the frost switch (32 deg) with outside temp of 95 deg while running down the road. I suspect your system is low, but without pressure and temp readings I can't tell you if that is even a possibility. Low refrigerant has a tell tail pressure readings, so it can say it is low, but not that it is filled to the correct amount, that can only be done by weight to any accuracy.

Yeah, I run it in my 1942 and 1948, it has to be at least as good as the stuff the army had back then, the "good stuff" went to aviation, the rest got "Mo fuel". My biggest problem is losing prime after running. I carry a big syringe to draw fuel up past the fuel pump and then it does fine until I shut it off and let it sit. I could save myself the trouble if I put an electric pump on it, but I just like things stock. I have a 6 volt electric (Carter clone) for a transfer pump for the farm diesel in the near side tank.

I have one Fleetstar that has that type (pintle hook) below the frame, but this a is K-7 with a GVW between 16500 and 21500, so more or less in the Loadstar GVW range. A lighter truck than most that pull a pup. As you see it has a flat bed on it that covers the rear of the frame. The rear of the bed was stout, the original hitch was bolted to 1/2" plate tied to the truck frame and braced, there was nothing wrong with original hitch if you are towing something that has the pull bar that high up. It would handle every bit as much as the one I put on, the difference is I can use differing ball mounts for varying heights. If the rear frame was exposed, I would have pulled the mount off the Fleetstar, and added the box receiver to it, giving more options on the K-7. The 269 mill will pull anything you can hook to, just at limited speed! I've had this one across the scales at over 18K and drove it 360 miles that way.

That is why I am holding on to some old truck frames. A lot of steel in them that may come in handy. In this case to build what I wanted would have been more work then buying pre made, of sorts. It is a universal hitch that can go on the back of anything with frame spacing up to 40". I have enough time in just making sure it is true and drilling and reaming the holes. I could have used old Fleetstar C channel frame for the drops, but the frame-rail is more valuable to me whole for ramps, etc. In the end, just buying, fitting and welding was less work and money ahead in the long run.

I am going to take the 5th wheel off one of my junk frames and make an adapter to drop on the back of the K's bed, already am working on the compressor mount, have plenty of air tanks and compressors laying around. If I really wanted to do it right, I could get an air pack to replace the hydovac and then it would be legal to pull semi's with it. I only own a storage trailer now so no big deal. I was presently surprised at the cost. Calling around for "small bits" of steel the prices were high. This has the added value that if stopped by a DOT cop, it has the factory weight rating sticker on it.

Thought you might be interested in this, 16,000 lb hitch for the K-7. They make a 20,000 lb version but realistically I don't think I have anything over 5,000lbs I'll be using it on. I had 10,000 on the bed before, however. If I am going much over that, I'd want a 5th wheel over the drive and not a rear pull. The truck had a hitch (holes seen on the rear) but it was too high for everything I tow, and always ran into it when I was working around the back of the truck. There is a 1/2" plate steel there welded into the frame and braced diagonally from further up. Very stout. I left all that, and added in a axle U bolt to it from the receiver, which should add even more strength to the already over built 16,000 factory rating. This set-up is all behind the rear of the truck when the ball mount is removed. I got a N.O.S, Kelsey-Hayes electric brake controller rated for both 6 and 12 volts. In the lit for it (circa 1975) it stated that ALL electric brake magnets are "8 volt units" suitable for use on both 6 (7.2 volt) and 12 volt systems. I don't think much has changed in electric brake magnets over the years. The K-7 has all the brakes it need to stop over 20K but if the bed is unloaded, the trailer can push the rear around, that is where trailer brakes make all the difference. Most states don't require below around 3500 lbs, but I have two single axles I spec'd with brakes anyway. I looked into buying metal to make my own, but the whole ball of wax including the ball mount was around $160 and I couldn't come up with the steel for that price. Pictures are the final fitment prior to tack welding the cross tube, then remove the whole thing and weld in position. Bolts to the frame with 5/8 and 1/2" grade 8 frame bolts.

I know fuel tanks outside the frame rails must be able to pass a drop test, filled and dropped at different angles and can not leak (or leak more than a spec'd amount) to be approve for road use. I do not, however, know if gasoline and diesel have to meet the same requirements or if gasoline is stricter requirements.

As has been pointed out, other equipment uses aluminum for tanks. I wonder how much of the "not approved for Gasoline" has to do with emissions and venting requirements for gasoline and roll over requirements for the same? My old step tanks from "back in the day" state for diesel or gasoline, but the lower bungs are not to be used for gasoline. (I.E. no cross over or gravity feed).

I run premium no alcohol in my 1984 Saab 900 turbo, The rest gets whatever as long as it isn't over 10% alcohol, but the 1942 doesn't like any of today's gasoline it evaporates from the fuel line during sitting , requiring re-priming if t sits.

Well, I wouldn't consider either my Marmon or either of my 9670's beaters, may be not show trucks but something in between. I have had even the pre made tank strap web come out on rectangular tanks after a while.

IDK, mine stay put. I don't trim until the straps are tight, and are just the width of the strap. Purpose made stuff is great, but I am going with what I have to hand. I've got stuff that has over 15 years on it and hasn't moved. If If had serviceable purpose made stuff, of course I'd use it. You could (and I have) used a little weatherstrip adhesive in the center of the strap to hold it, but I have also done it dry. Thinking about it, the times it worked best was on cylindrical tanks where the force on the strap was even all the way around. Rectangular tanks, the strap is less tight on the flat parts and more on the corners,

Oh, and one thing I didn't mention but may be should have, when I did my swap, I went from 3.90's to 4.11'/ 5.63's, and my mileage went up. You can be too slow.