Geoff Weeks

I think you had two distinct problems, and the 2nd didn't come to your attention until you addressed the 1st. The MV-3 should not have fallen apart when removed, so there was a definite problem with it. The spring brakes shouldn't have taken close to a minute to apply with the loss of pressure in the red line of the trailer, problem #2. Good that you addressed both. The 2nd would fail a level 1 inspection if the inspector was any good. It would have resulted in an OOS for the trailer. The 1st likely would result in a OOS for the tractor, although it was only an issue when hooked to a trailer so should have allowed you to bobtail away for a repair. P.S. we ALWAYS like to hear results, it helps in future problem solving.

I'm reaching a point in my life, that when Rory dies, I'm not sure I have another 15-16 years I can provide to a young dog. The only thing worse than my dog's passing would be for me to pass before him. I can't imagine how to make sure he would be cared for. My 2 dogs were over 1 year old when I got them. I think this time I would look for an older dog that needs a good home, and can be cared for in its older years. Only "puppy" I had was when I was growing up. While it is nice to be there from the beginning, there is plenty of love coming into their lives later also.

If it is anything like the screens in Cummins engines, they are there to be easily and cheaply replaced, to protect parts downstream that are hard and expensive to replace if plugged with debris. Remove or defeat at your own risk. Is it in the EGR cooler line?

So sorry to hear that. It is tough. I can't go through it with dry eyes. Buried one and the dog I have now isn't long for this world. The love they give their whole life doesn't make it easier but does blunt the pain long term, I have the good memories of all animals that have passed through my life..

I don't know why, but the Rotochamber was like 10X the price of a clamp chamber, there isn't a lot more to them then the clamp type. They are smaller in overall diameter for the same area (type number) then the clamp type. There there were the true Maxi brake, where you couldn't cage the spring and there was no way to manually release.

I am not familiar with those, and they don't have the "step" that the rotochamber does. I wasn't doubting you, I just saw what he pictured as a rotochamber. I don't think I've ever come across the Wagner, in my time, but don't claim to have seen it all.

I don't know, the O/P listed a part number which is for a Bendix rotochamber. That Bendix looks identical to the chamber in the picture. There were piston chambers, most I've seen are for spring brakes. Piston compresses the spring brake, diaphragm for service. https://www.amazon.com/Bendix-101260N-Rotochamber/dp/B0BVYDKZ4B

What did you see when you ran the test? With or without the hole in the web?

It is not a piston that wears a ridge, If the can is solid and the screws come out, your good to go. There is no wearing contact between the piston and the outside, the bladder is a "rolling lobe" like an air bag on air ride.

The "bladder" is about $200 +/- depending on where you get. Toss up between two Type 24's or one "badder" for the can. I would keep the rotochamber, but that is me.

The one he has come apart with a ring a screws around the outside to take apart.

There is a return spring, just like on a clamp type chamber, but it is weak just to return the piston, not like a spring brake, which provides the braking force.

Take the red and blue lines off the spring brake valve. Have someone in the cab press in the red button, you should get a large volume of air out the red line, basically a direct line to the red tractor line, so lots of air. red button will not lock in because it detects a large leak. Re connect the red line and have him charge the trailer. No air should come out the blue line or the fitting on the spring brake valve it was attached too. have the assistant pull the Johnson bar, you should get lots of air out the blue line. If it passes that test, re-connect the blue line (red should already be on) Pull out the red knob. remove any one of the black lines and its fitting from the spring brake valve. Install a 0-150 psi gauge in the port and have the assistant push in the red knob, you should see the pressure on the gauge rapidly rise to system pressure. Then have him pull the red knob out, the pressure should fall to 0 almost at once. Do not have your face under the spring brake valve when preforming these tests, you could get air and debris blasted into you. Test results poor low flow on the red = clogged line Poor-low flow on the blue= clogged line delivery port pressure checks doesn't rise to system pressure or leaks constantly =failure of valve Doesn't exhaust pressure immediately when red knob is pulled, but maintains pressure or pressure falls slowly = failed valve

1st picture is the ABS 2nd picture might be it, but is not a SR-5 so not subject to recall. You don't even know if the valve is at fault, could be crap in the lines. Looks like a "Sealco" spring brake valve: https://sealcocvp.com/product/110800/ Again, I advise against replacing stuff "willy nilly" esp when we are talking about stuff as important as brakes. Note: there are two version of this basic valve, one prioritizes the res the other the spring brakes, make sure you get the right one if you do replace it. One will have a drilled hole on a web for ID purposes.

On an air tank most often, but don't go half assed running to replace it. I don't know if your trailer even has one, or that it is the problem. I needs proper diagnosing of what is the problem. I just mentioned the SR-4 because I had one that the only symptom was the spring brakes didn't apply (until all the air in the trailer was lost). In looking at spring brake valves, I came across the SR-5 re call.

Way too long. There is a re-call out on the Bendix SR-5's mfg between Jan 2014 and March 2016. No idea if it applies to your trailer, or if that is even the problem. You have more work to do, but I strongly recommend a good shop that knows what they are doing and what to look for,

I've had SR-4's fail and never set the spring brakes. A restriction in the system could cause a delay. I want clarification on the time frame before for calling just a typo. He states seconds a sentence later when talking about the two ventings, which is correct the "dump" valve doesn't trip until the pressure is way down in the spring brake line. That may take a second or two after the Spring Brake valve functions.

This bothers me, it should not take 1-1.5 minutes for the trailer brakes to set. I would be OK if it was 1-1.5 seconds. When the red button is pulled out, what should happen is the air in the line to the Tractor Protection valve back on the frame, should exhaust out the MV-3 exhaust port (in this case the yellow line). The TP should immediately slam shut, closing off both the supply and service lines from the tractor and venting the supply line from the TP all the way to the trailers spring brake valve on the trailer. The spring brake valve should do many things at this point, It should prevent the air from the air tank from escaping back up the supply line, it should detect the lack of air coming from the tractor on the supply line and immediately exhaust the air going to the spring brakes, applying the spring brakes almost at the same time as it lost supply. On newer air ride trailers a valve is used in the air suspension line to close off the supply from the level valve and open the lines to the air bags to drop the trailer down on the stops when the spring brakes apply, so it doesn't rise and fall when being loaded/unloaded. It prevents "dock creep". If yours is taking a minute to react, you have more problems on the trailer.

Back when I did my Low-Fow Cummins rebuild, the engine kit (Interstate McBee) out of chassie kit was around $1500 and the re-cored 1500 sq in radiator was $2100! That just doesn't seam like it should be. However I could pull Parley's canyon in the summer with a full load, no problem.

Automotive alternators and generators both produce power to recharge the vehicles battery. Both have electromagnets, neither have permanent magnets. (Some small engines use permanent magnets as do some motorcycles, but the amount they can produce is limited) Modern car and truck alternators all have rectifiers, but they are not separate, they are located inside the case of the alternator, where they can be cooled by the fan. Generators are somewhat limited in their power output. The field is the stationary coil and the power comes from the rotating (armature). The biggest generator generally fitted was a 50 amp unit, and to make those 50 amps, it had to be turning fairly fast. Leece Neville was the 1st to produce automotive alternators, but at the time the only rectifiers were big metal oxide types that had very limiting characteristics. Still, they can produce more power at lower RPM. They had to have remote mounted rectifiers because they were so large and needed a lot of cooling surface area. In most applications the early alternators weren't worth the trouble. In police, fire and tow trucks that might be working at a scene for hours at a time, lights etc on, they were worth it. So they were retro-fitted or installed when the vehicle was ordered. Once silicon diodes were invented around 1960 (late 50's) then the switch to alternators with internal rectifiers became ubiquitous. Before most fire trucks had 120 volt inverters or generators, you could also tap into the AC output with a transformer and run 120volt lights and universal motors for saws and such. Even after the silicon diode, many mfg of large vehicle alternators kept external AC taps for use with a transformer (Delco DN40 and DN 30) as well as various other. In the late 50's Leece Neville sold a "conversion kit" to convert their early external metal oxide rectifier alternator to internal diodes. I did a write up about installing one on my early Leece Neville.

If the wheels turn, but in opposite directions, the brakes are not stuck (at the wheels) but something is preventing the driveshaft from turning. In gear is the 1st thing to check, frozen driveshaft brake, if equipped. Damage in the transmission, all come to mind.

In the late 2000's I had my 1942 re-cored, and the core was still an orderable item. When I had my Marmon re-cored a few years later, it was a "custom core", move forward to a few years ago, and my good semi-local radiator shop is gone.

My wife also will pick them up. We have a fox snake that for the last few years (5?) over-winters in our basement. Cats on the 1st and 2nd floor, decent size snake in the basement, not too many mice, but we still get them? Hibernating snake doesn't eat much.

This is a far cry from "it came apart when I removed it"!

Geeze, that would have been helpful to know! You knowth not what your knowth not! So we can conclude the original was defective, at least in some part. So it was good you replaced it. again a lack of clarity is leading to problems. I am going to walk away, this is obviously way beyond what you can do, and you should either find someone local to come and help you or pay for a shop to work on it.