Geoff Weeks

I can't remember how many times I had polio, diphtheria or whooping cough, because I never had them. You can't remember how many times you had measles because at most you can have it once, unless your immune system is severely compromised. By implying you had it repeatedly just shows you don't know about it. There are at least five (IIRC) kids who died unnecessarily from the latest outbreak in Tx. Yeah, I had those diseases also, but why would you want to put a child through that when they can get the same immunity from a jab? Yeah I got chicken pox and now have to worry about shingles, if there was a shot for chicken pox when I was young I wouldn't! You are looking backward with nostalgia for a time that never existed. I didn't have to worry about small pox because it was under control, and now mostly eliminated from the world. Getting it doesn't make you stronger, most often it makes you dead. Some survive, as with most diseases, but at best it leaves you immune from future infection.

Yep, and they died of diphtheria, Whooping cough, and suffered polio, not because they were stronger, but because the only ones around to tell us about it are the ones that survived. Do you know what diphtheria does? It forms a membrane across your larynx, so you die of suffocation. Not a pleasant way to go. Polio can prevent your ability to breath also. It is not a coincidence that "vaccine hesitancy" has come about only after all who lived though the times when there was nothing that could be done for these diseases have pass on from long lives. The lack of these horrible diseases, is the only thing that breeds the kind of thinking that they are not necessary, or worse "dangerous". We are too far removed from the horrors of them.

Shouldn't have to mention it, but will anyway, no more than 50/50% antifreeze and water. If someone keeps topping with straight antifreeze, it will cause problems with heat transfer.

egg laying hens are housed in much higher density so it rips though the whole flock much quicker, also more are kept for laying than are raised for meat. We did have it spread to zoo birds here, the zoo ended up quarantining their birds in buildings to prevent it from wild birds. Bio-security is a big deal around here, we even had one town completely quarantined for the movement of birds. Rose acre farms had it get into some of their turkey houses, cost them plenty, and I saw the efforts took to deal with it. No vehicles in or out without being "sprayed and drove through a de-contamination pool to get the tires and under side, all employees had to park remotely and walk in. Culled birds were buried in a big pit. I don't know if it was lined or sprayed before the cap was put on the pit. Big news out here where there are large chicken, egg and turkey farms.

In all my time working on heavy stuff, I've had ONE impeller in the water pump be a problem. ONE wrong waterpump and countless radiator failures. If you want to go with the odds and not confirm with a test, replacing the radiator is the most likely solution. If you want 100% confirmation, put a temp gauge in the lower radiator (return) and compare to the one on the engine. If the return isn't 10 deg cooler when working the engine hard, then you have proof it is the radiator. Edit: The above is on a clean system that has been maintained and has a coolant filter that has been serviced at normal intervals. If you have never serviced or don't run a coolant filter, then all bets are off.

What do you expect from people who are always getting loaded and getting dumped?

Both my 9670's had them on the floor, and lasted as long as I had the trucks, hit with a little WD-40 if they sat for a while, the water dispersing quality of that product does well here. "92 Marmon had on the turn signal stalk, when it went bad, it went on the floor, eliminated a relay and was more "ergonomic" to have it on the floor. As with most "tilt-tele" steering columns, the turn signal switch was below the "tilt joint" meaning you had to reach down for it. Not a big problem for the turn signal, as you know you are going to use it, but fumbling when a car comes over a hill to dim was more of a problem. I am of a generation that it was on the floor, and that is where I like it, even though vehicle have had it on the column for 40 years or more.

The use to pull with a pintle hitch makes it a little more critical, it has to be strong enough for the loaded trailer.

My guess is the owner had a short-neck drop-deck that was made for a single screw and the frame hit when towed by a tandem drive tractor.

If it makes you any more at ease, I never went further in than taking the covers off and the main gear/piston out. I have replace the sector shaft bushing and then popped the main gear back in (being careful to time the timing marks). Only time I would "go inside" is if it had power in one direction and not the other (indicating the poppet valve/springs) were bad. That was never the case for mine, they worked fine.

Ok, I'm not sure why you are trying to disassemble that far. Last I knew you were going to replace the bushing for the pitman shaft, I see no reason to take the main gear apart, they don't leak externally.

This: https://www.accuridecorp.com/sites/default/files/resources/2023-08/WE1.011 Rev. 4 Gunite Brake Drum Product Catalog 8-7-23.pdf shows that drum still active in 2023. Also has all the dim's.

My experience is the hub is always different inboard to outboard. Because the drum is between the hub and wheel on outboard, the flange that the drum mates too has to be further in than with inboard. In otherwords, the wheel has to be the same distance from the frame, regardless of if it mounts against the hub or the drum is sandwiched in between. That makes the hubs different.

Paul, 34K on a tandem is country wide legal, but each state can set limits in that state over that, and of course if you do heavy haul there is permitting for much higher weights. Also off road use. 38-40K is std rating now a days on anything for drives, dumpers often go 46K or higher. I'm sure you know, but higher cap housing use thicker wall and bigger bearings, so are an advantage regardless of weight carried in the long run.

Towing my Dart oil field truck backwards from Ill to Iowa I had some lugs loosen. (never happens with spokes!) I have seen 1st hand there is some truth to that.

I have built several with "rope" seal, I like them, but they do have some drawbacks. Even replace with crank in place, which is never ideal, but worked. Low pressure on the shaft and self lubricating are some of the advantages. Also no need to source an exact replacement, you can just buy a length and cut what you need.

Hammer the Ken-Tool on as far as you can, break loose the inner nut but don't remove it, used some pinch bars to get the Ken tool off. Easier to do when it is still threaded on the hub and the rim is available to pry against.

Honey bees, I'll do what I can to make sure they live, and a few stings is no big deal. Wasps: totally different story, they are like tick's and 'skeeters, pests!

I used the 25SI as the basis for my multi-staged (IUoU) charging systems. I know them intimately down to every last nut and bolt. They are extremely robust and hard to damage. On the ones I modified, they would at times, run full field output for up to 9hrs at a time.

If run with output hooked to ground, it will never produce any voltage and will not be harmed.

The correct 6 ga lead is Delco # 1971105 which is so long obsolete it doesn't even get any "hits" on the internet anymore. I used side terminal battery cables and drilled out the center hole for the large (7/16" IIRC) bolt. Note: the hex on the output bolt is ISOLATED from the output, and can not be used to check for voltage.

Yeah I tried to edit your picture with a blue arrow pointing to the output but not sure I was successful.

I have come across where someone has swapped a hub from side to side, so always a good idea to check first.

Hub pilot are all right hand thread, Stud pilot (what some refer to as "Budd") are right on right and left on left

Yes, that is the output wire and should go to battery positive.