96bulldogpower

Hi Shortdawg67. I removed the entire egr system from my 2007 CHN ASET AC engine about a year ago. The truck runs better than ever, keeps the engine oil cleaner longer, and I don’t have to worry about all the extra EGR junk. I started by removing the cooler, valve, and crossover tube. Leave ALL associated electrical connectors disconnected and zip tied out of the way (you won’t need them anymore), create a 1/4” plate to cover the port where the egr valve was (I used a piece of cardboard to make a template and then cut the plate to shape). You’ll also need to cap off the two coolant lines leading to the egr cooler, cap off the egr valve oil supply line and the oil return port located at the turbo drain pipe. Lastly, you’ll have to cap off the EGR inlet port that’s located at the intake horn on the intake manifold. You’ll end up with a lighting bolt on the dashboard indicating errors for egr, but in my case the truck does not de-rate or have any other issues. All in all, I’m very happy with deleting the egr off my truck, it does away with potential coolant leaks, allows the engine to run cleaner and cooler, less items to break down, and the engine is easier to service without all that junk in the way.

Masterwelder, thank you so much for the reply, such great info and detail! I found a prolink plus but the cartridge is VMAC III “Version 6.00, System Software 3.09” which sounds slightly older than yours. Will this still work? If so, I’ll order now. also, is having the donor VECU mandatory? I got the etech EECU from a private sale and they do not have the VECU. I’m currently running the original VECU that the truck came with. Prior to changing the EECU to the etech, the fan and engine brake worked as designed. I’m pretty sure the parameters for both of these functions lie in the EECU, but I’d like to double check with someone more knowledgeable than myself. side note, I had a EECU from a 300 etech and both the engine brake and fan work properly on the AI, so I’m hopeful this is simply a matter of programming the right settings.

Hey guys, I’m hoping to get some help with a rabbit hole I’ve gone down with a 2007 Mack CV713 AI 400. This is a triaxle dump truck we just put together, when put into service we discovered it is absolutely gutless, it was pretty much unusable for what we do. Long story short, we’ve been throwing parts at it in an effort to make some power with it. The problem is that our local dealer is useless and won’t uprate the horsepower. So we bought a ECM from a 2000 CH 427hp engine, we knew we wouldn’t make power with any of the available ASET AI data files anyway so we’ve decided to take it back to an etech ecm. The truck has gained a bit of power and is now usable. Unfortunately the donor truck we pulled this ecm from did not have engine brake and apparently didn’t have an air fan clutch because the fan will not turn off anymore. My question is, will a tech tool with V-Mac III software be able to turn on the air fan clutch and engine brake functionality in the parameters? Or is there such a thing? If so, I’ll be purchasing a tech tool very soon. list of mods to truck: etech exhaust manifold, s475 74.5mm turbo, 460HP ASET injector nozzles, ECM from 427 etech, 3.65 rear gears as a side note, the truck runs considerably better, has more power throughout the power band. But it still feels sluggish, we have a similar spec’d ASET AC truck with 355/380 ECM with K&S injectors and the same gear ratio and it pulls HARD compared to this troublesome truck. Is there any other modifications I can do to this AI to make it have more power?

Hey guys I was wondering if one of you Mack gurus with access to part number information could help me out. I’m needing to replace the camshaft in my Mack with the aset ac motor. I have a GC5247 cam in it now, but I have access to a reconditioned cam with part number GC4268. Can anyone tell me the differences between them? Will the reconditioned cam be a drop in install and work with my engine? Please help!

Turckster, very helpful! I did what you said about checking the timing. The timing is right where it needs to be. I have done a few things since I last reported. I bought and installed a used ECU and VECU, thinking that it would solve my issues but it did nothing, as a matter of fact the engine wouldn’t even crank with the replacement computers, I did not even get anything on the dash screen just like before. So I reinstalled the factory ECU AND VECU, and I’ve decided to stop chasing electrical issues because all computers are getting power and the truck seems to respond to the gauges most other functions just fine with the exception of the dash screen. The truck still refuses to start on ether. I’ve checked the fuel system and it is getting fuel just fine. I even went as far as replacing the filters and a new fuel lift pump. Still no start. The engine may sputter a few times while it is cranking on ether however it never actually starts or fully runs on ether. Any ideas of where to check next? Also, I do not have a diagnostic tool or a way to check compression.

I primarily buy trucks at auction for our family business. I know what you mean about auction truck nightmares, but I bought this truck as a known non-runner. So I guess you can say I dug my own grave. I’ve chased all the typical electrical connections and all seem good. I’d like to know which pins at the ecm to test for power, do you happen to know which they are? Although i haven’t tested compression, the engine doesn’t sound like it is freewheeling or has a dead cylinder as it cranks over. Obviously not a accurate way of gauging compression, but it does sound like it should. I’m concerned that it won’t even run on ether, leads me to believe there may be something wrong with the timing, what gets me is that it does “stutter” once or twice as it cranks over as if it was trying to start. The other concern is that the dashboard info screen doesn’t come on, leads me to think it may also be ecm related. Everything else checks out good, no shavings or out of the ordinary in the engine oil, everything looks mechanically sound, all fluids are topped off, new cam and crank sensor. I’ll do some more checking once the rain lets off, just wanted to get you guys’ opinion

Hey guys, I’m stuck on another truck again. I’m working on a 2014 Mack CXU with a MP8 and mDrive transmission. Bought the truck at auction, so I know nothing about it. Put fresh batteries in it and a new starter. I have looked through the fuses and found none burned. The truck cranks and every now and then sputters like it tries to start but never starts, not even on ether. While cranking engine, the engine sounds fine, no abnormal mechanical sounds present. Another thing is, the information screen on the dash does not turn on. Have any of you guys encountered this? No codes, and as far as I can tell the fuel system is not building pressure, but i may be wrong about that.

All Mack cabs with the “newer” interior from 2002-2007 are the same and completely interchangeable. The only modification you might have to do if you swap the whole cab, you might have to transplant your original dash harness to the replacement cab but even this is not difficult, I’ve swapped them in about an hour. 2007.5 and later are slightly larger cabs and have the redesigned interior. These newer cabs won’t work as a simple swap.

Hey guys I’m back at it again with yet another project. I recently acquired a Mack single axle dump truck. It’s a 2001 set back axle with the old CH style hood. I wanted to know if it was possible to update to the CX (vision) style hood? Does it just drop right in place like the original hood? The existing hood is cracked on the main mount, I rather update it with the vision style if I can rather than just buy an old style replacement. Ps. The hood I’d be using is the early 2000-2004 CX hood that mounted to the narrow Mack frame. 2005+ Hoods were on the wider chassis.

I got the part numbers for the 2019 pinnacles but that’s all I ever got, although I love the new pinnacle headlights, I just couldn’t justify spending the $1200 my mack dealer wanted for the set. Maybe later down the road I’ll impulse buy a pair and share some pictures with you guys, but all in all, I only have about $120 and a little bit of my time into these headlights I made.

Get the genssi’s! I’m a huge fan of them, I have a couple internationals running the 6x9’s and the output is excellent. Much better than the cheapo style. The 4x6’s your super liner are almost identical, I think you’d be happy. Give them a shot and take a look at my recent post, I did something pretty cool with a pair of genssi’s for CH model Mack’s

Now to see the results of the finished product!! Here you go guys! Let me know what you think! The optics, light aim, and output are second to none. These things look like a Mercedes lighting up the road. And they look very nice! You can’t even tell it’s a mack housing. I can get some night pictures if anyone is interested in seeing them.

Look carefully and you will see the tiny holes on the side of the lens where I injected the clear resin.

Once I had the LED unit inside and sealed in the housing, I had to find a way to make the original Mack lens less “fuzzy”. This type of lens is a diffuser type, and I wanted it to be clear instead, like on modern cars with clear lights. Not only would it look better, but it would allow the LED arrays to work better as well. I drilled six very small holes, only enough for a 16ga needle to go through to inject the clear resin. The resins job was to fill the void between the mack diffuser lens and the lens on the LED unit, thus creating the clear lens effect.