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ivanuke

Porch Pup
  • Content Count

    72
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About ivanuke

  • Rank
    Mack ET

Profile Information

  • Location
    Houston
  • Interests
    Technology,Electrical, Mechanical, and Computer Engineering, 3D Printing, Fabrication, Computers, Programming.

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    CV713, CHN613, CH613
  • Year
    2007, 2005, 2001
  • Other Trucks
    2001 CH613, 2005 CH613

Recent Profile Visitors

1,086 profile views
  1. Only have purchased the road choice coolant. Doesn't look like I'll be buying anything else. If it's a non critical part I would consider cheaper alternatives. But something like clutches and alternators stick with the tried and true.
  2. I decide to skip on them because there's more lower mileage ones coming soon. They sold for 5000 and 6000 flat price I should of got one regardless!
  3. The compressor on my truck is a meritor system saver 318, i cant seem to find any for sale. Any compressor brand should do as long as it fits and same CFM? Im thinking one from bendix as those seem easier to find. I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow.
  4. I just got around to trying to fix this issue, I did what you recommended and this is the amount of oil it put on the paper in 1 minutes time. Any advice on where to check next? I'm not sure how to verifdy if oil is being pulled past the rings of the compressor. Paper was about 24" away from supply line for 1 minute. Update: I ran the truck for 30min and then did another 1 minute paper test. This is the results. Im assuming the first test was maybe risidual, dont know if itll clean up after a while. Thoughts?
  5. Do you have a part number for this jumper? Or how it prevents capillary action? I need to make sure mine have it too. Edit: Nevermind just did a quick search for anti capillary jumper and found it Pai 854049 Mack 20838672
  6. came for the pics stayed for the tits
  7. It looks like Pins 10, 22, and 24 are the culprits. Pins 10 and 22 are 12v+ and 24 is ground. If everything else works fine in the truck, like your headlights and windshield wiper, I think the ECU is what caused the problem, an internal failure Im thinking. If you're looking at the harness connector, pin 1 is upper right hand side, count down. Top half has 4 rows bottom half has 3 rows. Are there any other fuses that are blown? If so please list them here. Also are you saying if you connect it back you can turn on the truck by replacing the fuse, but itll blow shortly after? Not an immediate blow?
  8. I was just about to message you, I spent some time looking through the schematics. If you disconnect the J2 line and the fuse keeps blowing you have a short in the harness. If it doesn't blow and it blows when you have J2 connected, your ECU is probably bad, but now it looks like you have pretty good damage on both sides. If you determine your ECU is bad I'll offer to buy from you, I want to take a stab at repairing one. If i were you, I would clean that connector as good as I could, and make sure there is no visible shorts (use your multimeter on ohm setting to make sure theres no short from pin to pin) and if it looks good, put another fuse back in and see if it pops (which it shouldnt if all pins were good during the ohm check) This would help determine if it was the harness or the ECU, the connector looks pretty destroyed, hopefully its salvagable. Not sure if mack sells connector parts.
  9. Sorry to hear that, if you have Code 6-4 thats loss of communication to an ECU. Attached are the troubleshooting steps from the V-Mac III manual for this code, go through these tests and it may help you find the fault, there is a paragraph in there if you lose both communication lines the engine wont start. Let us know what you find! CV713_6-4_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf
  10. I just picked up an 06 CV713 with an eaton autoshift, I got it from a salvage yard but its definitely fixable. I will start to tear into it and to the electronics and see just how much would be involved to make the swap. I may ditch the autoshift myself if its not to my liking.
  11. Try removing the dash and see if you can get your meter leads to touch Pins 29 for power and pin 35 for ground (cant remember if the wires had boots or if the crimp is exposed enough to get leads on it. or maybe get sharp leads to poke the wire). If you have 14 volts I would get another dash. Pins 29 and 35 are somewhat close together, just be careful they don't touch when checking voltage.
  12. You can perform a Blink Code Method for reading the diagnostic fault code. The lightning bolt flashses a two digit blink code for each fault in the system. Its a quick and easy way to get the blink code, here are the steps: 1. Turn the key to the ON position and wait a few seconds. 2. Make sure your speed control switch is in the OFF position. 3. Press the SET/DECEL switch for a second until the lightning starts blinking. 4. The lightning bolt will start blinking, count the number of blinks before there is a 1 second pause, then count the next set of blinks. The number of flasses before and after the pause will determine the diagnostic code. For example: 1-3 or 4-2, or 9-3. You can easily google search your fault code once you have the blink code numbers, if not just come back to the forum and i'll look them up for you and try to give some troubleshooting steps to fix the issue.
  13. We've had drivers that complain they could be making more money if they had their own truck vs driving for us (I pay them 35% of whatever we get paid, which I think is very good), most drivers do not understand running an older cheaper truck to get into the business requires a solid maintenance plan for equipment uptime, and i don't mean just making repairs, I mean have a solid maintenance plan with forecasting and having critical spare parts on hand and unit exchange items like a spare transmission. When you have these systems in place it becomes easier, drivers just drive, owners dispatch, mechanics repair. Its a system that one cant function properly and smoothly without the other. If you try all three you will exhaust yourself most likely unless you're really making great money above the average guy and can afford the downtime to pay someone to make repairs. My goal is to have our drivers make as close to what they would make if they were an o/o without the headaches of repairs and downtime. Scaling the operation in the backend with maintenance I think everyone can be one big happy family and make a good living.
  14. Update: I had to leave town but had a mechanic take a look at it. He said the forks had too much play and sold me a "refurbished" shift bar housing with all forks and everything ready to drop in for $550, and charged me $250 labor and took my old housing as a core. I am a bit suspicious about this as I wasn't able to verify, but word from the shop is the truck is working fine now. I just find it strange all three shift forks are now "too loose". Hopefully he didn't pull a fast one on me because I wasn't able to verify, but did have someone there less mechanically inclined witness what was going on. In either case that fixed the issue, take with a grain of salt. I had the air module tested and the o-rings replaced on the range selector piston, that didn't solve the issue beforehand.
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