Geoff Weeks

Huntington, WV delivering brick.

I had two of those, 1st one was crap, cracked from the get go. 2nd one I kept in the one and only truck with stud pilot. They work but if you have to change an inner dual you'll be knackered before you get all 20 nuts off.

I think the 1st highlighted starter would put the solenoid close, but would have to be rotated to clear everything.

This shows the rotational choices with those two starters, I think one of the two should clear the manifolds and block.

Mine hand cranks so easy. The problems come when the gasoline evap's from the carb, then it takes a bit of hand cranking. I set my points with a dwell meter and the timing with a strobe, it never has tried to kick-back when set like that. It should have a hand choke and throttle. I give it a little throttle and set the choke depending on temp. Starting for the 1st time after sitting for a long time, I draw fuel up with a syringe, but still takes some cranking either electric or hand to fill the carb. Once it is full, it fires right off.

This claims to fit a delco 737-Z which is what the 269 takes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/282933350969 But IIRC you are going 12 volt, so I'd be looking in the Leece Neville catalog for a 10 tooth clockwise rotation SAE#1 starter. Last I looked they made some. Check the two highlighted starters

Well my memory is crap, I went out and looked on my Dart and the cab is by Chicago Mfg and it is on North Trumbal not Elston. So wrong about the name and location.

Hard to say, could be almost anything from a -7 through -10

Does sound like a cab grounding issue. Run a 10 ga wire between the cab and engine and cab and frame.

Diamond T and IHC, both shared a fair bit over the years, with Diamond T even using some IHC engines, but there was never any doubt which had more "bling" or was the upscale Mfg, that has always been Diamond T!

When I got my Dart, I spent a lot of time trying to find info on CC and didn't get far. Since the Dart data plate was missing and the frame so heavily modified, I was trying to find another angle to "date" the truck. CC was a dead end, and the Stewart-Warner gauge panel came closest to dating the truck to the early 50's. I does have a Chicago Cab plate on it.

McLaughlin Body in Rock Island, made a lot of cabs and stuff for the Military trucks, may be? They are or were still in Rock Island, Il last I knew. One reason I don't think Chicago Cab was involved as they seam to disappear around the same time, but the Comfo-vision cab continued into the late 60's. I haven't seen or heard of either truck mfg buying Chicago Cab, they just seam to fall off the radar screen. By the late 50's Dart was using other cabs, and were briefly absorbed into KW, then Unit Rig, then ??? CC may have made prototypes or may have had no hand in it at all. The Comfo Vision is like the Ford "C" Budd cab, that Mack also used for a short time, Did Budd stamp out all of them? I kinda doubt it. So many low volume Mfg used the Comfo Vision cab, whether they bought the stamping in knock-down form, or paid for the rights to make it, I don't know.

IDK, I don't think Chicago Cab made it, They did make the cab on my Dart, however, and that was around the same time period. I haven't found a lot of info on Chicago Cab, other than they were on Elston st in Chicago. The shear volume of Comfo-vison cabbed trucks make it unlikely it was produced by a independent cab maker.

Try owning a Marmon! "who makes Marmon?" Me: Marmon makes Marmon Other person: Yeah, but what company owns Marmon? Me Marmon Group Yeah but who owns them? I give up.

If it makes you feel better I have done the same, I think anybody who has worked around tires long enough has done it. Lock on chucks, and the tire falling over or getting bumped or hose getting pulled, is all it takes.

I miss the "good old days" when every car had a bumper jack, and the metal "foot" of the jack was just the right shape for breaking the bead on any tire! Line it up under the front bumper, install the jack and a few quick pumps (or ratchets) and the bead was off, flip the rim over and do the other side.

Air drier still need a signal from the gov to the air drier. That means two lines, one for the air pressure from the wet tank, and the 2nd for a purge signal to the air drier. That line comes off the middle port. Same port that goes to the unloader port on the compressor. He may have one hidden behind the intake piping, I can't see.

What I don't see (may be there, I don't see in the pictures) is a signal line to an air drier for purge. Does this truck have an air drier? Moisture and oil/gunk from the wet tank can get back to the governor if the tanks aren't drained EVERY day when in use, without an air drier. I, for one, can never be bothered to drain tanks every day. I had air driers on my stuff and never had a problem until the drier had some sort of problem. If you don't have a drier, they are not hard to install to limit future problems. You may get it to work by cleaning as Brocky recommends, but if you don't address the source of the problem, it may stick the next time you need the truck.

Air governors from top to bottom. Old Bendix, Midland front, Midland rear, Bendix D-2

D-2 Pretty much an air gov is an air gov, you can put any kind on there. Bendix, Midland, it doesn't matter.

Next time it happens, disconnect the ABS actuator electrically while it is leaking, if the leaking stops, the problem is in the electrical portion of the ABS, if not, it is in the pneumatic portion and is likely crud in the air system sticking the valve open.

Replace the gov, Unloader only gets air from the gov. Had it happen many times with stuff that sits. If compressor valves are stuck in the unloaded position it will not build air at all.

Does the truck have traction control?

To be clear, you lay the gasket over the item, feel for the bolt hole, put a larger ball bearing at the hole, and strike with a hammer. Then put a bolt shank or rod through the new hole, and move on to another. I like to do the holes 180 apart 1st to more accurately punch the rest of the holes. Even used on holes you already made, it cleans up the hole in the gasket paper.

Put a ball bearing over the hole and strike with a hammer.