Geoff Weeks

Well you are dealing with something old and odd ball. If the adjusters are worn but serviceable, then they go back in, if they can't be cleaned up and serviceable, or the teeth on the wheel are badly worn, then you'll need a machine shop to copy the old parts, and make new. I have done that before, and as long as the machine shop is good, can be the best bet. I had to have a part made for an adjuster on my Saab, which has the hand brake on the front caliper. Grand total for 2 adjusters was $70. Other would swap out the front and rear brakes (caliper, disks and hardware) (requiring an axle swap on the rear, new parking brake cables etc) to "update" to the system that parts are available for. When working on old, not available stuff, you have to think outside the box, and keep in mind, that if it was made by man, it can be re-made by man. The type of machine shop you want is a small shop that does repairs on older stuff, not a large production shop. Ask if they do the kind of work you need or can recommend a shop that does. Your parts look "all there" so at least you have patterns to work from. Shoes can take linings, and cyl can be rebuilt.

Been almost a month, and progress?

Grounds and bulbs. Most likely one side doesn't have a good ground, and backfeeds through the taillight filament.

Not sure what you are looking for? Your shoes look like they could be relined. Your cyl? they can be either be overhauled or sleeved and rebuilt. Parts like adjusters, often can be sourced by looking though buyers guides, although you need a good parts store who will have these catalogs and know how to look at them instead of a computer.

I always think of the late, great George Carlin when talking about stuff like this

As much as I am an "original" guy, I'd forgo those shields as well 1) they look fairly rusty 2) they only have a marginal effect in keeping grease off the linings 3) as your results show, they have almost no effect keeping oil off the shoes if oil bath bearings are used. Since you are going back with oiled bearings, then just toss them. I kept a set on one of my axles, because they were in premo condition, but there is no real advantage to them with oil bearings.

All else fails, should be easy to make one.

My experience is: the shaft is the vehicle mfg part as it has the location and orientation of the linkage arm dictated by it. Bushings and fork would be Eaton.

I agree with @fjh, check fuel pressure and diaphragm. I had one similar, came on quick, and got worse quick. changing fuel filters helped a bit but not enough. I my case it turned out the suction line was leaking air into it but not fuel out. Would show in fuel pressure reading or a sight glass placed in the fuel line near the pump. Just one of a few things that could be bad. In my case, not obvious to find but easy to fix. Fuel pressure, esp under load where the problem is happening, would help to narrow it down. A hand pump on the smoke limit device would be a good way to check if it is holding pressure or leaking right through.

I am working on a mount for an air compressor, and have a few 5th's that I could make a drop on mount on the flat bed for moving my storage trailer. If I were to be serious I'd have to replace the hydrovac with an airpack then it could tow semi's for real! As I posted some time ago, it has a 16K hitch and will have an electric brake controller for running electric braked trailers. K-7's could be spec'd from the factory with air brakes, but so far have only seen a picture of one spec'd that way. During the war, there was a need for trucks that could pull semi's and many hyd equipped trucks were retro-fitted with a compressor and airpac in place of the hydrovac. It turns out that the Leese Neville alternator is too big to fit where the stock generator is, so I can either have an air compressor or the L/N on the left side but not both. May put the L/N on the 48 gin pole and move its 48 amp generator to the white truck, or may opt to put the air-compressor on the gin pole truck, but that bed is too high to pull most semi's and the gin poles would be in the way.

Yeah, and why the '48 (blue green) doesn't have them. It can be done well, just not with what the P/O did on the '42 (white) truck. It has another cab and doors going on, that also have W/C mirrors. I think either are ok if done well. Small round does leave something to be desired, but it is also rarely out of the far right lane either!

Small round on an extendable stalk would have been factory. You need west coast that can extend away from the door a fair bit as the cab is considerably narrower than modern beds that you might want. Mine has the double A frame and then a loop for the mirror, but it rattles and moves a fair bit. Guy used all thread between the top and bottom A frame. I could make it better but haven't yet.

Which is all why I just put some grease on and take on a short road test. Always wise if running a tandem axle in gear to have both axles off the ground. It wasn't stated if single or dual, and I should have made that clear. when running, the rotation of the ring gear moves oil out the tubes, which keeps the bearing in plenty of lube, and why they don't run dry right after the seal starts leaking. Once stopped any excess (above the bottom of the tube) runs back into the bowl. Some applications it is not easy or possible to over fill. Grease and a road test, then let sit for a few min and check/fill to the correct level has always worked for me.

The spinning of the ring gear move oil up and out the axle tube, You only need to make sure you have enough oil in the bearings until that happens. You can: lift the rear axle and run at speed with the tires off the ground. jack up one side enough to have the oil run to the other side, then jack up the other. My way was to put a good coating of grease on the bearings when installing, then when the job is done go out on the road at 50 mph or so, then come back and top up the rear axle with oil. Oil will dissolve the grease and do no harm, grease will lube the bearings until the oil gets there.

Neatfoot oil could be a substitute. Just a little to keep the piston seals supple. http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Manuals/TM 9-1827B.pdf https://www.abebooks.com/Bendix-Hydrovac-First-Second-Series-Service/31992141638/bd best I can find at the moment.

I found the DVD but the file is too big to attach. It is about 25 min of oil field operations. It says 1952 on that CD. 1.1GB in one file and 300 MB in the other. Film wasn't in great shape when it was digitized.

I don't know if I can find it, but if I do, I'll see if it can be posted, not sure how I would do that.

Those "Shields" were common on axles with greased bearings, it was an attempt to take any grease flung off the hub from reaching the brake shoes. They most often vent to the hollow spokes, so grease will end up on the inner rim and not on the brake. As Mowerman will attest, they weren't all that effective. Once oil bath bearings were the norm, they were almost 100% INEFFECTIVE! so they went away

Also it had the Tru-Stop disk E brake on the driveshaft after the Aux trans, It was a twin caliper brake, the disk and calipers were gone but the operating linkage was all there, so pre-dates spring brakes, no air parking brake control on the dash, so one wasn't added.

One can Date the GM Diesel by the two large bypass oil filters, that places it in the 50's sometime, later full low filter were added at the oil cooler. I has a Berg air supply button to pull trailers. IIRC the front axle has 18" brakes.

Somewhere, I have the sales lit. When I 1st pulled it from the scrap yard, I dove deep into research on it. That was many years ago, and I can't lay my hands on the info sheets, but remember the general spec's The GM diesel was one option, as was a large Wauk and Herc, both on Butane. Transmission were 5 speed and 3 speed aux with power-tower. As I said, the winch and rear axles were gone, as was the aux and power-tower. I purchased a 4 speed aux for it. Best I can tell, mine was built around '53. Dart made "off road" trucks the "100" and "150 oilfield" (mine) were the smallest trucks they made (at that timeframe) and the only of "legal" dimensions. The GVW rating of the truck alone was either 60K or 66K (I don't remember all these years later), more than most road tractors today. The GM 6-71 was smaller than the big Wauk of the day There is no way to tell if mine was a "re-power" or spec'd with the 6-71, what is likely, is it is a replacement block. Only question is what the original block mfg was? The yard I pulled it out of was padlocked, left un changed, from around 1962, that much is known. I bought it from the son of the yard owner, when the town forced him to clean it up in the early 2000's There were lots of old trucks, but none newer then the 50's. H model Mack, a Diamond T (that today, I wished I had bought instead) most missing their rear axles. That means my Dart likely had a working life of less then 10years. That is why the body remained in such good condition, however the frame had been beat to hell. The front axle was moved back, the steering column and box relocated, so it entered the cab in a more vertical position, the clutch pedal/lever extended so the operator could turn around and run the winch from the drivers seat. Winch brake control is mounted on the back wall between the seats. The person that found this yard, and worked to find the trucks a new home, sent me a super-8 movie converted to disk of either my truck or its sister, working the Oklahoma oil patch in the 50's. The abuse the trucks suffered make a 10 years in the wildcatting oil field seam more like 50 years of more normal use. At one point mine (or its sister) were loading the draw-works, and the front axle was up off the ground at a 45 deg angle, and they didn't slow down the winch, next second, it came crashing down as the C/G past the rear axles! The Mack H model was beyond hope, but the Diamond T looked like it could be driven out if it had a rear axle. It was a lighter model, but I don't remember the number, Had a IHC medium six, (could have been a 269 or may be a 308) and the leather protectors on the hood corners will in good shape, the gauges (always a strong point on Diamond T's) looked perfect. I chose the Dart because of it's rarity and because I thought (and hoped) it would be easier to find a home for the Diamond T. There were 50's livestock and car carrier trailers, as well.

Bolt still show as being available. I don't know what size so just did a "generic" search. https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/euclid-brake-lining/01tUZ000001qhxpYAA Have to look for lining blocks. Both will likely be a "special order" but you could have pride in saying I re-line my own brakes when I restored my truck! https://www.maxitrucks.com/products/4709-brake-lining-set-23k never mind, that brake block set say Eaton ES, but I bet they have others.

That was and add on, it sits outside the hood/bonnet. Shop made. The triple air cleaner was a GM mfg part but where it sits isn't. Unfortunately it got hit when the truck was moved, and the cast aluminum cracked, but is repairable. It was set up to mount to the blower directly. The hood was modified from original, there is evidence of a vertical exhaust exiting through the hood on the right hand side. There is some evidence, like the air cleaner and exh that this was a re-power, although sales lit show the 6-71 as one of the engine options. The engine number is hand stamped in the block and one is "upside down", it has a rear mounted (gear driven) generator that the cab floor was "boxed in" around, that doesn't look like how the factory would have done it.

AFAIK there is no advantage to bolt on linings, Bolt or rivet, either is fine. Cast shoes, unless cracked, or abused are great for those that re-line. They are the heavy duty option, and with core charge, I'd hang on them. I have one set of cast shoes in my core pile, unfortunately they are 16.5 x 6", which is not very useful. Q brakes, are fine in the wider sizes with two webs, I prefer pin brakes on the narrower sizes used on the steer axle.

I haven't seen bolt-on linings in 30+ years!