Geoff Weeks

CTS 2301 It covers the Fleetstar line. Volume 2 covers cooling systems.

Should look something like this: shutters.pdf

Yeah, I don't know if parts are even available anymore for them. I would disconnect the linkage and see that everything moves freely. Other then that, the only real test would be to remove the engine fan and let the radiator heat up, until engine temp is close to 200 and see if they move. You'll not likely see them move much when running the truck, as they close when the temp in the bottom tank is below (engine) thermostat setting.

Yeah, I found the instructions for them. If the engine has a 180 deg stat, the shutters should open when the bottom tank is at 180 deg, engine should be at 190 at the top outlet hose. Shutters don't open to full 90 deg on the shutter "blades" only go to about 45 deg open. Fully mechanical so any rusted linkage will jam the operation. I can see two nylon bushing in your linkage cross shaft. Just make sure it is free to move but don't force the actuator. If you need more I can try and scan the pages, but yours looks functional.

I could be wrong, but I believe that is the type of shutter that is fully mechanical. It uses a "wax pill" to operate the shutter. No air involved at all. The temp setting should be the same as the thermostat, as the sensing unit is in the bottom tank. Somewhere I have the info on them, as I have that type on one of my Fleetstars. One of the things I remember it saying is "DO NOT FORCE" the shutter or you can damage the "pill". On mine, all I had to do to get it working is to take apart the linkage and paint with graphite paint.

I do know this style wheel was made in several sizes and at least 2 shaft sizes. It does seam to be used on trucks made for the military production during the war years. Later and earlier civilian production didn't use this wheel. Hopefully I'll get the correct wheel later in the week. then I have to find the correct horn button assembly for it.

The common electronic tachs I am familiar with use a mag pick-up on the flywheel that reacts to the ring gear teeth. They are not "powered" pick up. There are some that run off an ac tap on the alternator. If your engine doesn't have a cable drive, it should have a 3/4" x 16 tpi hole tapped into the bellhousing for a mag pick-up.

In case I wasn't clear, I wasn't saying elements were not made anymore, just the filter housing. Elements should be available from any filter mfg. Baldwin, A/C etc

The guy I bought this one from got back to me and thinks he has one with the correct shaft opening, waiting to work out an exchange. One of my K-7's has one and after 80 some odd years is near perfect condition. The other was post war and has the OEM wheel, which is all deteriorated as most do.

Filter should look like this on the inside, It appears the Farr of old has been acquired by someone else and is no longer made.

If I am not mistaken, that is a Farr aircleaner. open and count the tubes across and down and get that size element. They were more of a "construction" equipment air filter and often were tied with an "aspirator" on the exhaust to "knock" the bigger dust particle off and blow them out with the exhaust flow.

Looking for a "military" style steering wheel in the 18-20" range and a 1inch 36 spline. I bought this one, but it was miss labeled as a 1" and is a 1 1/8" shaft.

If you want to try and diagnose the present system, start at the regulator. With the battery disconnect switch in the "on" position and ignition switch off, you should have power at the left terminal of the regulator when measured between it and ground AND measured between it and the case. Next turn the ignition switch on engine off. You should see power at the ignition terminal of the regulator (the one by itself on the other side from all the other terminals), as well as power on both the generator (center terminal) and some on the field terminal. So all three terminals should have some power at least with the engine not running and the ignition on. Start the engine and look for AC voltage between any two of the three big output terminals on the alternator. If you don't have ac voltage, check the two small terminals on the back of the alternator (they are slightly staggered) one should be seeing power and the other should be going to the ground side of either the engine block or the rectifier. If you see power on one and none on the other, it is ok, if you see power on both, you have have a broken ground side wire, If you don't see power on either, you have a broken wire between the regulator field terminal and the alternator. With the engine running, the voltage at these small terminals (field voltage) will be less than the full 12 volts, but should be a readable voltage. The part most likely to fail is the rectifier. It can fail open (no power gets through) or shorted (allows power from the battery to drain through the stator windings. You can replace the rectifier with a set of diode blocks out of a modern alternator, you'd need to mount them on an insulated board and somewhere where they would get good airflow to cool them

If your regulator is EXACTLY like the one in my picture (there were several different regulators used), with the side with the single terminal pointing away from you and the three facing you, the three are far left: output to batteries and/or ammeter center: output from rectifier/ alternator far right: field the single terminal facing away from you is ignition feed. Note the regulator is mounted in rubber bushings and need the case grounded to function. On most there is a tab on one of the bushing that grounds from the bolt to the case of the regulator. If you are going to replace with a modern one wire alternator, you need to extend the wire from the left terminal on the regulator to the output stud on the alternator, and remove the regulator from the truck. You also remove the rectifier and assorted wires along with the L/N alternator. Note: you can identify the main current carrying terminals on the regulator as they have 2 screws holding the wire terminals on the regulator, the field and ignition feed only have one. They are also stamped with letters (G or generator) F for field, ign for ignition etc.

If you are going to go with a modern alternator, you'll need a pulley (most modern stuff uses a 7/8" shaft, the early L/N uses a smaller shaft) but most importantly, you'll need to make a new mount. The early L/N was designed to replace the normal generators of the day, and so came with a mount that would fit the same as a generator. Modern alternators come in either pad mount (not what you need) or SAE j180 swing mount. The SAE mount takes a 1/2" bolt and has a spool on the engine 1/2 of the mount, the two ears on the alternator fit over the spool and a 1/2" bolt passes through all. The generator mount used 3/8" bolts and a much wider spacing between "ears". To make the mount, you'll need some 5/16" or 3/8" plate and some cored bar or xx pipe (schedule 180) for the spool. It has a 1" or so OD and 1/2" ID. The mount will have to be fabricated carefully as it aligns the alternator (and therefore pulley) to the engines belts. Alternatively, you could buy a mount for a Cat or Cummins (or other engine) and adapt it to your block. Alternator will need to be either positive ground or case neutral.

Ok, then it is a Leece Neville alternator set up. A Delco 40DN looks some what similar but doesn't narrow down at the rear like the L/N does. Note: both have 3 AC taps on the top. Next question is do you want to fix the original or replace with something modern that is easier to get parts for? replacing makes it easier for someone not familiar with these old systems to work on it, fixing keeps the truck "period correct".

Sounds like the brake treadle valve is leaking. Check for air leaking out the bottom of the valve (floor mounted) or back of valve (firewall mounted). Kits are available for both types, but most just buy a reman and slap it on.

Likely a Leece Neville, but could also be a Delco 40DN or 30DN with something else wired to it. For the 4th time, does it look like the picture I posted? I can't help if all you do is repeat what very little info you started this post with. Tag pictures with the info and numbers would clinch the ID, Alternator, regulator and "rectifier", then we can address what the options are.

Not exactly like, but a version of our piston type spring brake chambers. I guess in Europe, they know enough not to remove the bolts holding the chamber together with out caging it in some way, so don't need our idiot-proof non serviceable chambers that are required here,. I have similar MGM piston chambers with the big snap ring on the rear cover/lid on my Marmon. https://mgmbrakes.com/files/4815/8153/4411/MGMBRAKES_PISTON_BRAKES_FINAL.pdf

did the stud back out (hopefully) or did it snap off below the spoke surface? They can be a pain if the stud snapped off. If near the surface weld a nut onto the top of the stud, gives something to wrench on and heat from the arc weld often breaks the rust bond.

Any method that doesn't grind is fine. Shifting without any clutch slip can be hard on the splines and damper spring in the disk. when teaching, I get the student to slip the stick into neutral with two fingers then clutch into the next gear. Gets them to understand the process. A lot depends on the ratio jump between gears on what method works best. In my opinion, too many put too much stock in being able to shift without using the clutch. More of a "show-off" thing than any real reason to do so. Mostly I didn't but it depends, I put much more stock in someone who can shift smoothly and without shock or grind then if they use the clutch. Seen a lot of so called driver shift without and grind or shock load the drivetrain, then I have drivers who used the clutch poorly. Pulling heavy on a large hill, speed and smoothness can be the difference between making the shift or coming to a halt or worse, driveshaft on the ground. 170k can be very unforgiving.

Once again, true generators don't use rectifiers, so still trying to get an answer to what you have. L/N calls it a generator because the ultimate output is DC. The three big studs on the top of the unit are the 3 phase AC output that is fed to the finned rectifier. SO FOR THE 3rd time, does it look like the one I posted or not. If not we need to see what you have. Big question is: do you want to keep it period correct or not? If you are not trying to keep it period correct, then rip everything out and use a modern "one wire" alternator for the correct polarity. If you are trying to keep it period correct, bushes, brush holders, slip rings, regulators are all still available, the finned rectifier is not, and it would be best to replace with silicon diodes anyway, which will require some fabrication.

You are going to need to be more specific on what you have tested and what you have on the truck. Does your charging system look like the one in the picture I posted? Have you checked the regulator? You can eliminate the system you have now and replace it, or you can address any problems with what is there now. Both are valid ways to proceed, but a lot depends on your knowledge on working on these systems. So far you haven't provided much information.

It has to do with the regulation and how the two connect to the load. Most alternators, with the exception of the early Leece Neville's are always connected to the load through the diodes in the rectifier. Generators and the early L/N have a reverse current relay or "cut-out" that keeps them isolated from the load until the voltage internally is above normal at rest voltage for the system. Diodes do a fine job of keeping current from flowing from the battery back through the stator windings, but allows any forward current to pass. If there is any kind of load on the output, be it a dead battery or just normal truck loads the stator voltage can't rise above that, and therefore the field current (voltage) can't either. This prevents the alternator from being able to produce useable power unless it has a high enough voltage on its output terminal to begin with. Generator regulators, (and some of the early L/N alternator ones) keep the generator isolated from the load until output voltage exceed the pull in voltage on the reverse current relay (cut-out), so field current (voltage) will rise and so will the output until it is at operating voltage before being connected to the load. So with these type of regulators, they can start from nothing, build to operating voltage before the load is applied. It isn't alternator vs. generator but the regulation and how the load is applied that is the deciding factor.