Geoff Weeks

According to the .net Big cam came out in '76 I had a '79 in one of my trucks. There was a long time when Gassers still were used in heavy trucks. Esp in the east where the runs were shorter. By the late 60's they were on the downslide, but I had a '69 Fleetstar with an RD gasser in it as a parts truck. I think I mentioned elsewhere that LaPort transport ran Ford and IHC Gassers into the late 90's.

And I want you to succeed, which is why I am passing on hard learned experience. There is tools made to slide the hub, wheels and tires off as a unit. I know one shop that does all brake jobs that way inboard or outboard. He claims it is much faster. I kinda figured that truck wasn't your sole means of employment, but you never said, and I didn't assume. There was a shop I used in the valley (if we are talking the SLC valley) that had no problem working on old stuff when I was out there. No idea if they are still in business. I'll see if I can find their name and number. I know they did a pinion seal that was on my '83 was gushing, and I wasn't going to drive it home over 1000 miles like that. United Diesel Service 1905 pioneer. Did fair work, I used them a coupla times, but that was a decade ago so things might have changed.

Reminds me of the old Bell helmet ads, "If you have $15 head buy a $15 helmet".

The requirement for a headboard/headche rack went away with the newer securement regulations. I don't agree with it, but the law is if you have two securement devices on the front of the load close together, each being capable of holding 1/2 the weight of the piece, then a headboard is no longer required. IIRC there is an exception to that for pipe, I think you still need it with pipe and may be beams. I never looked at it closely because I always ran a headache rack. I always had a headache rack on my tractors regardless. When a company is paying to outfit the truck, and extra strap is cheaper so that is all that is provided in most cases. We see the result of that in those pictures.

That is later than the manual I saw one in, IIRC it was later 60's before the body re-design. Showed the cab heater using engine oil as a heating fluid. When did the Toro-flow go away? Likely the Deutz was offered when that happened.

IHC cabover and some conventionals use that air seat. Only on the passenger side. Some have a non suspended seat but look for later ones where the air seat is more common on the passenger side. That will give you more trucks to look for in the junkyard.

Worse lumber I hauled for squirming were new RR ties right out of the creosote, it was like they were coated in grease! Had to be real careful with them esp when it was sunny and hot.

Looks like at least 6' lumber may be 8'. That is a lot of travel. Not enough straps or not enough tension on the straps. Hope he walked away to learn from it.

The visor and the window regulator are going to likely be Mack only, but the shorty air seat, IHC used on their trucks esp cabovers, as the heater box was under the passengers seat and it couldn't take a full height air seat. If I am understanding you, that you are looking for an air suspended seat that doesn't bolt to the floor, not just one with a low back.

I've done my share of diff work, I have the torque multiplier for a reason. I worked one place that had to re-torque the rotex bearing on equipment yearly. They had either a 1" or 3/4" torque wrench ( 40 some odd years ago, I don't remember which it was) and there was barely room to swing it in the service bay with the machine in there. Torque multiplier is dead easy: put on the nut/bolt to be tightened and install a short reaction bar to someplace solid on what you are working on, dial the 1/2" torque wrench to the correct input torque and start ratcheting away until the torque wrench clicks. In most cases a one man job. works great on trucks, there is always the frame to act against.

I just saw one new report that the family has confirmed that is him in the video, If that is true and I see some concrete evidence ( like a family member or lawyer representing the family saying it) I will re think my stance on this. However the lack of arrest and corresponding documentation is still troubling.

GMC (or Chevy) with a Deutz from the factory, that is what I call rare. I seen pictures of one in a manual, never seen one in pictures or otherwise in the wild. They were offered as a factory option.

The why, when they have killed for less, was he not even arrested? You see what you want to see to bolster your own views. But ask why no arrest and paper trail that would prove it to be true?

Funny that, he wasn't arrested, the video ends with him standing un cuffed on the side walk. Labled as "appears to be..." Humm Could it be if it was him and they show that he was arrested, there would be a paper trail to confirm the truth of the video? At very least an arrest report and a bond ruling by a judge. It has fake smear written all over it. Spitting on a officer would be assault, Kicking out a light destruction of gov property, but these kind officers just let him walk? Look at things will a little more open mind. It falls apart on the face of it.

I doubt your air drier is compromised in any way, It is way thicker steel than the fitting are. Worse case buy a rebuilt bottom cover if that is badly corroded. You can change that "in situ" with the drier mounted to the truck. Changing driers (when you don't even know if there is a problem) but saying you don't have time to do what is obviously bad, is poor priorities. You've got an air tap on the lower fitting, apply shop air to above gov cutout pressure and see if it pops off! While it is building up listen for air leaks, and spray the hoses with soapy water. If your going to make it on 150 mile/week, you got to spend your money wisely, I see you jumping at things without determining if they are the problem or not.

Still well into the range of at least a 3/4" torque wrench, which is going to be damn hard to use while under a trash truck!

My point is still to focus on what is likely to shut you down, oil on brake cans isn't (unless the inspector is a real dick) Oil soaking brake shoes will. Air lines on the verge of failure will also get you shut down in an inspection even if they don't fail on the road and shut you down. So why if it only runs 150 miles in a week, can't you address some of these looming problems? There is a lot of oil in a differential, part of the reason there is more than needed for lube is to cool. A qt or two low isn't going to kill it. If it were I, I would pay a shop to do the pinion seal (as other have recommended) and use my time to address the other issues. While a torque multiplier is a good tool to have when working on stuff that needs to be torqued higher than a 1/2 torque wrench can reach, it is expensive kit to sit on the shelf. It is much more versatile then a 3/4 or 1' torque wrench because you can use it in tight spots that the long handle on a torque wrench that can go 600 ft/lb+ can't be used. Look, I know what it is like, I started with one truck, and had to prioritize repairs, I see big problems if you keep jumping problems without resolving any completely. I see real potential for a tow bill in your future, and trust me, you don't want that. It would be cheaper to pay to have the job done than it would be to "Kit up" for this one job.

BTW, unless that pinion seal is gushing oil, I'd put my efforts elsewhere before dealing with a "wet" seal. From what I saw of the airlines on the drier, that is much more likely to either get you shut down by DOT or leave you stranded. A damp or wet pinion seal that is not soaking the brakes with oil might get a mention on a inspection report but will not leave you stranded. You can check the oil and top off as needed, but a bust air hose leaves you dead in the water. Also, how did you make out with the fueling issue? was that fixed when you replaced the hose, or are you still running the electric pump?

Torque multiplier and a 1/2" torque wrench. That is how I do mine. Torque multiplier has a chart showing input (torque wrench setting) for desired output.

Those engine earned the moniker of "Toilet bowl" for a reason.

Thought it belongs here.

I suspect it is in fact, the other way around, the doors are the only part of the system that are working at the moment. The rest is controlled by the electronic control board and I am guessing that is not working. You'll need a manual control of a water valve for the heater, a switch to turn on the A/C and a frost switch in the evaporator fins to keep it from freezing over. All very doable. The original system used a thermostat in the airstream its signal was modified by the resistor (either directly or by its output to the controller IDK) and the controller which cycled the heater or A/C compressor as needed to give the desired output temp. Without the 'brains" of the system, you need to be the brains and control when the A/C is on or the water valve is open.

You have most everything you need to have both systems working. What you may not have is the controls for them to operate as designed. That is possible to build. You could add a frost switch and the A/C system would function. I don't know if the temp control lever has enough travel to have a cable controlled valve work with it. However, you can install a knob that can do that. It will not look "stock" but would look Ok and function. Do the air doors to direct the outlet air work?

I found old H-4 (Hella's) to be a good compromise between what we have today and what the old sealed beams gave us. But must admit I try and limit my night time driving, my eyes are as good as they were in my 20's. My 1st dog could spot deer long before I could. 1st time I had to hit the brakes hard to avoid hitting wildlife, he would come out of the sleeper and sit in the passenger seat and bark when he saw something. I came to trust his judgement better than mine!

Found an online Red Dot catalog and punched in the number for the controller and they don't even list it in the parts section so suspect it is NLA from Red Dot and not likely from other sources. Bummer.