Geoff Weeks

Filter should look like this on the inside, It appears the Farr of old has been acquired by someone else and is no longer made.

If I am not mistaken, that is a Farr aircleaner. open and count the tubes across and down and get that size element. They were more of a "construction" equipment air filter and often were tied with an "aspirator" on the exhaust to "knock" the bigger dust particle off and blow them out with the exhaust flow.

Looking for a "military" style steering wheel in the 18-20" range and a 1inch 36 spline. I bought this one, but it was miss labeled as a 1" and is a 1 1/8" shaft.

If you want to try and diagnose the present system, start at the regulator. With the battery disconnect switch in the "on" position and ignition switch off, you should have power at the left terminal of the regulator when measured between it and ground AND measured between it and the case. Next turn the ignition switch on engine off. You should see power at the ignition terminal of the regulator (the one by itself on the other side from all the other terminals), as well as power on both the generator (center terminal) and some on the field terminal. So all three terminals should have some power at least with the engine not running and the ignition on. Start the engine and look for AC voltage between any two of the three big output terminals on the alternator. If you don't have ac voltage, check the two small terminals on the back of the alternator (they are slightly staggered) one should be seeing power and the other should be going to the ground side of either the engine block or the rectifier. If you see power on one and none on the other, it is ok, if you see power on both, you have have a broken ground side wire, If you don't see power on either, you have a broken wire between the regulator field terminal and the alternator. With the engine running, the voltage at these small terminals (field voltage) will be less than the full 12 volts, but should be a readable voltage. The part most likely to fail is the rectifier. It can fail open (no power gets through) or shorted (allows power from the battery to drain through the stator windings. You can replace the rectifier with a set of diode blocks out of a modern alternator, you'd need to mount them on an insulated board and somewhere where they would get good airflow to cool them

If your regulator is EXACTLY like the one in my picture (there were several different regulators used), with the side with the single terminal pointing away from you and the three facing you, the three are far left: output to batteries and/or ammeter center: output from rectifier/ alternator far right: field the single terminal facing away from you is ignition feed. Note the regulator is mounted in rubber bushings and need the case grounded to function. On most there is a tab on one of the bushing that grounds from the bolt to the case of the regulator. If you are going to replace with a modern one wire alternator, you need to extend the wire from the left terminal on the regulator to the output stud on the alternator, and remove the regulator from the truck. You also remove the rectifier and assorted wires along with the L/N alternator. Note: you can identify the main current carrying terminals on the regulator as they have 2 screws holding the wire terminals on the regulator, the field and ignition feed only have one. They are also stamped with letters (G or generator) F for field, ign for ignition etc.

If you are going to go with a modern alternator, you'll need a pulley (most modern stuff uses a 7/8" shaft, the early L/N uses a smaller shaft) but most importantly, you'll need to make a new mount. The early L/N was designed to replace the normal generators of the day, and so came with a mount that would fit the same as a generator. Modern alternators come in either pad mount (not what you need) or SAE j180 swing mount. The SAE mount takes a 1/2" bolt and has a spool on the engine 1/2 of the mount, the two ears on the alternator fit over the spool and a 1/2" bolt passes through all. The generator mount used 3/8" bolts and a much wider spacing between "ears". To make the mount, you'll need some 5/16" or 3/8" plate and some cored bar or xx pipe (schedule 180) for the spool. It has a 1" or so OD and 1/2" ID. The mount will have to be fabricated carefully as it aligns the alternator (and therefore pulley) to the engines belts. Alternatively, you could buy a mount for a Cat or Cummins (or other engine) and adapt it to your block. Alternator will need to be either positive ground or case neutral.

Ok, then it is a Leece Neville alternator set up. A Delco 40DN looks some what similar but doesn't narrow down at the rear like the L/N does. Note: both have 3 AC taps on the top. Next question is do you want to fix the original or replace with something modern that is easier to get parts for? replacing makes it easier for someone not familiar with these old systems to work on it, fixing keeps the truck "period correct".

Sounds like the brake treadle valve is leaking. Check for air leaking out the bottom of the valve (floor mounted) or back of valve (firewall mounted). Kits are available for both types, but most just buy a reman and slap it on.

Likely a Leece Neville, but could also be a Delco 40DN or 30DN with something else wired to it. For the 4th time, does it look like the picture I posted? I can't help if all you do is repeat what very little info you started this post with. Tag pictures with the info and numbers would clinch the ID, Alternator, regulator and "rectifier", then we can address what the options are.

Not exactly like, but a version of our piston type spring brake chambers. I guess in Europe, they know enough not to remove the bolts holding the chamber together with out caging it in some way, so don't need our idiot-proof non serviceable chambers that are required here,. I have similar MGM piston chambers with the big snap ring on the rear cover/lid on my Marmon. https://mgmbrakes.com/files/4815/8153/4411/MGMBRAKES_PISTON_BRAKES_FINAL.pdf

did the stud back out (hopefully) or did it snap off below the spoke surface? They can be a pain if the stud snapped off. If near the surface weld a nut onto the top of the stud, gives something to wrench on and heat from the arc weld often breaks the rust bond.

Any method that doesn't grind is fine. Shifting without any clutch slip can be hard on the splines and damper spring in the disk. when teaching, I get the student to slip the stick into neutral with two fingers then clutch into the next gear. Gets them to understand the process. A lot depends on the ratio jump between gears on what method works best. In my opinion, too many put too much stock in being able to shift without using the clutch. More of a "show-off" thing than any real reason to do so. Mostly I didn't but it depends, I put much more stock in someone who can shift smoothly and without shock or grind then if they use the clutch. Seen a lot of so called driver shift without and grind or shock load the drivetrain, then I have drivers who used the clutch poorly. Pulling heavy on a large hill, speed and smoothness can be the difference between making the shift or coming to a halt or worse, driveshaft on the ground. 170k can be very unforgiving.

Once again, true generators don't use rectifiers, so still trying to get an answer to what you have. L/N calls it a generator because the ultimate output is DC. The three big studs on the top of the unit are the 3 phase AC output that is fed to the finned rectifier. SO FOR THE 3rd time, does it look like the one I posted or not. If not we need to see what you have. Big question is: do you want to keep it period correct or not? If you are not trying to keep it period correct, then rip everything out and use a modern "one wire" alternator for the correct polarity. If you are trying to keep it period correct, bushes, brush holders, slip rings, regulators are all still available, the finned rectifier is not, and it would be best to replace with silicon diodes anyway, which will require some fabrication.

You are going to need to be more specific on what you have tested and what you have on the truck. Does your charging system look like the one in the picture I posted? Have you checked the regulator? You can eliminate the system you have now and replace it, or you can address any problems with what is there now. Both are valid ways to proceed, but a lot depends on your knowledge on working on these systems. So far you haven't provided much information.

It has to do with the regulation and how the two connect to the load. Most alternators, with the exception of the early Leece Neville's are always connected to the load through the diodes in the rectifier. Generators and the early L/N have a reverse current relay or "cut-out" that keeps them isolated from the load until the voltage internally is above normal at rest voltage for the system. Diodes do a fine job of keeping current from flowing from the battery back through the stator windings, but allows any forward current to pass. If there is any kind of load on the output, be it a dead battery or just normal truck loads the stator voltage can't rise above that, and therefore the field current (voltage) can't either. This prevents the alternator from being able to produce useable power unless it has a high enough voltage on its output terminal to begin with. Generator regulators, (and some of the early L/N alternator ones) keep the generator isolated from the load until output voltage exceed the pull in voltage on the reverse current relay (cut-out), so field current (voltage) will rise and so will the output until it is at operating voltage before being connected to the load. So with these type of regulators, they can start from nothing, build to operating voltage before the load is applied. It isn't alternator vs. generator but the regulation and how the load is applied that is the deciding factor.

You got it backwards, mecho had it right. If this truck has a rectifier, it has an alternator, like the one I posted pictures of. Generators don't have rectifiers (commutator does that job).

Does it look similar to this:

I suspect you have a Leace Neville alternator with remote rectifier system. It has a remote regulator. Pictures of everything or replace with a modern unit depending on what you want. Pictures would be helpful

Some seam to be confusing alignment and run out, they are not the same thing. Alignment is the geometry of the spindles to the frame and to each other. It doesn't change with wheel type or tires. Run-out is how true the rim is on the hub. You can have tons of run out and be in alignment, and you can have no run-out and be out of alignment. By using a tram-bar and scribing a line on the center of the tread on the tires on both sides, then rotating the tires and measuring as close to 180 deg as possible (front to back) you are taking any run-out out of the measurement.You are comparing the same point in front and behind the axle. THIS HAS NOTHING TO DUE WITH HOW TRUE THE RIM OR TIRE IS! Tires and their tread can't be counted to be true, so you pick one single point as your frame of reference and use that point for both measurements. Mounting spoke rims (and tires) on a set of spokes is a completely different operation, that is getting the rim on the taper evenly. If you don't it will wobble side to side and up and down. BUT IT HAS NO EFFECT on alignment. toe in, KPA and castor angle don't change with run-out. To mount a demountable rim true, start with all the nuts and wedges on the studs but completely loose. Put one spoke at the top (12 o'clock) and just snug it. Then rotate so either the one a 6 o'clock (6 spoke) or 7:30/4:30 (5 spoke) is now in the 12 o'clock and snug it. Continue in the same vain always snugging the wedge in the 12 o'clock position. This allows gravity to pull the rim into center on the taper. With all wedges snug, check the run-out with a block of wood or tire hammer. If run-out is good, continue tightening is a criss-cross patter until all are 240 ft/lbs, and recheck. If at any time you see run-out, loosen and start over. YOU CANNOT torque straight, you'll at worse end up over torquing the nuts and could even deform the rim.

Pay and working conditions! If you are willing to pay and provide decent working conditions, you'll have no trouble attracting good employees. If the conditions suck and you pay starvation wages you always have trouble attracting and keeping any workers. Trucking conditions are hard, always have been but are getting harder*, Wages have (for the most part) been on the edge of what is needed to keep reasonably competent workforce,and have declining . This leads to the real bad turnover rate the industry has always struggled with. * the driving is easier, but everything else is worse, wait time, traffic, JIT, parking food, the list goes on. When on the "open road" driving is a enjoyable, and will attract some, but the real world conditions lead those that can find other work not to stay long term, and those that can't to take their turn in the mill of "training" and then disappointment.

Funny that? Every time I got or renewed my CDL it was issued by the state! I guess I didn't know enough to get one of the mythical Federal issued CDL's !

No problem, solid tires, just over 20K on the drive, chain drive.

Yes, they just get plumbed from the pressure side to the suction side of the waterpump. Most bigger filter mfg sell the spin on filter heads. If I were you, I'd install the filter and run it for a while. If you have overheating problems change the radiator. That way you give the filter a chance to work, and not put a bunch of crap into the new radiator from the rest of the cooling system. Coolant filter are a bypass type filter, meaning they can plug and cause no running problems. If you notice the filter is cool after running, the filter is plugged and you need to replace it. (doing its job). Once the crap is out of the system, the filter will keep new stuff from building up..

Coolant filter, add one if it doesn't have one!