BottleHauler84

I believe that is a MC, not technically the exact same but pretty close to MR. As far as the Scania engine goes tho I have no idea what clutch setup it would have.

So far so good Bob 👍

Now Joey, you know im gonna be bugging you about this lol!

Gave $150 for them, which i thought was a great deal. The front carrier has the power divider lockout which was my main reason for buying them.

Started tearing down these extra set of CRD92/93 diffs for gear swap and full rebuild. Old army truck surplus i found cheap. 6.56 gears but barely any wear on them, but they have been sitting for AWHILE. Should be a fun project....

I always take connecting rods to a good machine shop. Im not sure if you have one local to you, but when putting new bushings in the small end of the rod, they need to be machined and sized to fit for proper tolerance spec to the wrist pin. The wrist pin bushings are bronze and need to be pretty precise.

Does your shut down light in the dash work or come on at all or stay on? I had this same issue on my 88. Not sure if yours does, but If your truck has the Kysor shut down system, theres a sensor on the coolant manifold on the drivers side of the engine with 3 wires. Mine was located at the rear of the water manifold. Mine was corroded and shorting out. Might give it a look. Alot of people disable them so it no longer activated the light and buzzer.

Right. Yeah I actually did the upgrade on a RTLO20913A thats in one of my trucks. Its a simple upgrade and its not terribly expensive to be honest. It just consists of changing the splitter gear that incorporates the extra bearing, splitter gear, reduction gear and mainshaft (output). Here's the parts you change to build the auxiliary box of the 13 to the 18 specs. Then you can split it. Like you said though Larry, not really needed unless your doing heavy work in my opinion.

RTLO18918b has an extra bearing and different splitter gear design in the auxiliary section that the RTLO18913a doesn't have. If you put a 18 speed knob on a 13 speed and plum it up, the auxiliary will burn up the splitter gear in the 13 speed. Also, the main box ratios in a 13 is totally different than an 18.

I know you like to argue with people, and its ok because most dont take it personally...including me. I respect your knowledge. Will you point me to the section of your information that deals with drains and refills? I was referring to what Eaton currently recommends (PS-386), and the idea that you dont mix mineral based oils with synthetics. It never has and still isn't a good idea. Will it work, yeah im sure it will. Along with 80w90 gear oil, 50w engine oil, iso32 hydraulic oil, vegetable oil, maybe just put a grease zerk on it and fill it with grease. Why not just put back in it what eaton calls for?

That transmission has most likely been filled with the recommended synthetic sae 50. Its never a good idea to change one way or another with out a proper flush or replacement of parts. Its hard on the friction material on the range synchro clutch lining. Not a good idea.

You are correct. Eaton RTLO series call for SAE 50 synthetic oil. Anything else trashes the range synchro in the auxiliary box.

You can definitely loop it with a oil line, but the lube pump bypass plate does let the oil continue to circulate, so the internal lube pump can still pump freely and would have a cleaner look in my opinion. They are cheap and readily available if you need one. If you dont already have the current part#, here you go bud. https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/k2402-fuller-pump-port-cover/

That could probably be said for about 99% of that generation, not just specifically democrats or republicans. They would all be upset with the way our country has turned out after fighting WW2.