07cl733

Well my pre ccrs engine had 1 ceramic lifter and 12 spring loaded push rods. I put the same push rods back in, along with all steel lifters, but your info on this may come in handy in the future if I have any problems with them. I can certainly change out the intake rods to the cheaper, standard style.

Okay, thanks again. The manual only says they used different push rods, not when and where. These engines have been around so long that I find myself robbing an engine made up of multiple other engines to piece together a different engine made of multiple other engines.

Thanks Joey Mack. My 1999 built engine has all spring loaded push rods, intake and exhaust. Is that normal, or should they only be on the exhaust? I'll check the camshaft. It is a new PAI part and supposed to be for this e tech, engine, but so were the heads.

Hello all, my seemingly endless e tech project has hit another snag and I could sure use some input on this problem. I ordered new heads from ATL diesel, FedEx damaged one and over 4 weeks later I finally got a replacement. I bolted them on and realized the heads are from a newer engine with pinless intake yokes. I have a parts engine with pinless yokes that I could steal and install today, or the heads are drilled for pins which I could order and install whenever they arrive. My question is, is there any problem mixing these yokes from two different engines? Also, the parts motor has an engine brake but standard, not spring loaded, push rods. Is that normal?

Was that an NTC or N14? Either way, that's a long ride. These new 15 liter Cummins could only get that if you hauled them around with your old Cummins for 800,000 of those miles, at least the one I'm around with company drivers in them. Add a zero to that parts figure and you have a pistonless in-frame these days...

It has definitely been rebuilt somewhere in the past and I have put head gaskets in it once before, also. I didnt realize "in spec" wasn't necessarily good enough for the liner protrusion, so I just bolted it back together with new gaskets. I got over 200k more miles out of it for $500 and my labor. And I totally agree with Joey Mack, these things are tough! And I'd like to keep this old dog barking a while longer. If this truck were what you got when you bought a new one today, I'd be making payments.

I think this motor is a testament to what you are saying Geoff. I found 3 different kinds of lifters and the connecting rods aren't all the same either. I've felt the rings have been sticking since I started running it and pulling a couple off has proved that true. I still feel its been a good motor that pulls strong and makes good fuel mileage.

Thanks guys! I do need this truck to work, but the reality is it has almost 2 mil on the chassis and another 250k would be a pretty good ride in my line of trucking. Your words make good sense. I'm going to think on it a bit and weigh my options. This already turned out to be more involved and expensive than hoped and I do need to get back on the road. The motor ran good with good oil pressure before this, a blown head gasket started me down this rabbit hole. Low liners lead to new liners, bearings and pulling the camshaft, which turned out to be bad and I'm trying to get the right balance of getting a reliable truck and not going broke.

Here are some pics.

Thanks for all the replies. I do not have a machine shop close by, but may need to find one. I don't have any type of bore gauge that will come close to .0015, so I probably should find someone that does. Do you think a feeler gauge between the pin and bushing would be a good enough indicator? I'm trying to upload pics, but not having any luck. Would you normally have the bushings replaced, if worn, or get new/reconditioned rods?

I'm not sure if I need to start a new topic for my etech project, but I have another question and can't find many answers for it in any search. How can I tell if the wrist pin bushings are bad? This is a high mileage truck, 1.8 million, and I don't have any history on it for the first 1.6 million. The bushings are copper colored. Is that normal, or does it suggest high wear? The manual says you need a special press and broach to change the bushings. Is it possible to change them without these very expensive tools? New rods are much cheaper than the tools, but still $400 a piece.

Thanks for the insight! I understand it's impossible to predict how long any part will last, but any info will help me understand more about the situation. And any tech tips, like the cam gear key advice, are most appreciated. I'm glad to know PAI is a decent aftermarket option. My dealership tells me that Volvo has completely stopped support for mack engines, and seemingly everything else Mack, save the name.

Since a blown head gasket has led me to an in-frame on my 2000 etech 460 that has 1.8 million on the motor and 750k on the current build, I'm pondering changing the cam and/or lifters. The motor ran great and the cam looks good, but I don't know if it, or the lifters, have ever been replaced. I've read from this invaluable resource, bigmacktrucks.com and it's members, that the lifters can go bad and take out the cams in these motors. Are cam failures common enough to justify going deeper and spending thousands of more dollars? How about lifters without the cam, would that be a better idea? Or even just the eup lifters, as they seem to be the biggest problem? Joey Mack, if you're out there, I read a post from 2022 that said you were using a pai cam and ceramic lifters. Would you recommend that combo for the etech?

I think I'm on the right track now. Thanks for all the valuable recommendations guys. I wish the last one in this engine would have had Joey Mack's advice used the silicone a bit more sparingly. It took half a day to pull the liners and I thought I was going to break the puller. They must have used a whole tube on that engine.

I'll get in there and check things out. I may be able to borrow a cutter if needed. Thanks for the advice. This may be a new motor before I'm through.