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R.E.D

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About R.E.D

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    BMT Veteran VIP
  • Birthday November 11

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    Houston , Texas

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  1. On my etech ,it was the injector oring that was bad.it would put fuel past the injector hold down cap threads and contaminate oil...you can tell by running engine shortly without valve covers .the culprit injector cap will have less oil sitting on it since the fuel washes it away.
  2. New coolant , and I used the little gauge thingy to measure the concentration of antifreeze to water. And by the looks of it, thermostats were the stock original ones
  3. Yup...that ring was sitting on the pitted lip of the housing..after adding the permatex it sealed nicely ...I filled it back up with coolant..on second thought I should have waited until the permatex cured in order to add the coolant.
  4. I have attached a picture of the thermostat and the arrow is pointing at the metal spacer I was referring on the earlier post
  5. If it does cure , it will give me time to procure a new thermostat housing .
  6. Yes sir..new seals are in ..I figured it out , it seems like the thermostat housing is pitted from cavitation and it would not seal...I know silicone is not to be used ,but I put just a dab to fill up the pits in the thermostat housing and it seems to be holding pressure. I will let it cure overnight and I will update in the morning.
  7. I'm installing the dual thermostats on the granite .I got Pai thermostats .they seem to have like metal spacer that goes between the thermostat housing and the thermostat? Does this sound right?does it go on the thermostat housing?rubber seal looks thinner than the stock one, but it could the old one is thicker because of age.i installed with said spacer and it pours the coolant out . pleased advice. Also if that spacer is not used the seal is lower than the deck.with the spacer, seal is above of the deck. Red
  8. Looking for a r model , rd , rb fuel tank with built in steps .it has to be the small one that's like 50 gallons or less.aluminum or steel.doesnt really matter. Thanks Red
  9. Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/QrV2iZkEidb Saw this on offer up.figured someone would be interested.
  10. I have since rigged a switch to the dash to turn fan off and on ..I have checked the a/c pressure switch by unplugging and checking voltage and continuity...also my truck is not equipped with a torque limit switch so that rules out that..I check eecu j1 pin 9 and no voltage...not sure if it is supposed to be ground..?? I will have some more time this weekend to troubleshoot ..if all else fails I will be installing a fan 195 degree temp switch to activate the fan..it will go through the a/c high pressure switch as well. Ps: I don't have a 4-2 code.just wanted to show fan circuit.
  11. Engine fan is staying locked ... solenoid tested good .I'm only getting 3.8 volts to solenoid connector and a/c high pressure switch. Fuse 41 on fire wall is good.any thoughts?
  12. Sounds good , yet I would like to find a led replacement.
  13. Howdy fellas Can someone provide the part # or bulb style for the instrument cluster for the granite? The bulb is not removable from the bulb houlder.im attaching pics , the holder only says "wagner " and "10 j".
  14. This is on a 2004 Ami 370.i believe yours is different yet the principle is the same...Eup engines have a Cross drill passage from front to back of engine . remove plug in the front and test it with a pressure gauge.I believe it should be from 55 to 80 psi at idle.if lower than that replace pump... Pump is on passenger side in front...there should be a hand priming pump attached to it. RED
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