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Licensed to kill

Big Dog
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Licensed to kill last won the day on July 17

Licensed to kill had the most liked content!


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    Alberta Canada

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    1959 Mack B61T, 1955 B61T, 1958 B61T

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  1. I will figure all this out on my own (then will share what I find to help others doing similar projects). Just asking in case someone has already "invented this wheel" so I can just proceed with confidence rather than trial and error. Kinda like walking in the dark. I will get where I'm going cautiously feeling my way but would be easier if someone that knows the path could tell where to and not to step (if you know what I mean).
  2. LOL. Understood. I never really liked daytons. However, I'm doing a B-61 and IMO, the steers on a B Model don't look right with polished budds and the daytons with the "Mack" script cap look really good to me so I'm sticking with the spokes. Putting a diff from a 2016 Freightshaker with air ride and have to covert them. Pretty sure I'm the only guy in history to change hub pilots to spokes. FWIW, my brother prefers spokes over hub pilots because they never come loose and they never crack. The only sad part is that to use the 8 bolt axles I have to use newer spokes that are somewhat square, not rounded like the ones that came on the B's. The chance of using the hubs that came with the truck with the 6 bolt axles on this much newer diff is pretty remote to say the least. I'll be running 10.00R20's in the rear (again, because the 20" rim just looks right on these trucks) and 11R22.5 on the steer (to eliminate the split ring AND because tires are easy to get).
  3. I will be doing the opposite, changing hub pilots to 6 spoke daytons. I am told that the inner bearing on the spokes is smaller than on the budds and that there is not a bearing available to fit so I may have to have the spoke hub machined to accept a bigger race. What did you find regarding bearing sizes?.
  4. Does the END 673 (1959) and the E-6 350 2 valve (1981) use the same oil pump?. If so, can the pump be removed from the 673 through the round cover in the pan sump?.
  5. Whats wrong with that?. I have 4 model A fords (3 hot rods and one stock) a '57 Chevy short step BBW, a 1944 IH firetruck, a '35 Ford 1 1/2 ton wrecker and i just picked up my 3rd B-61 yesterday. If you are nuts, what does that make me??. R model macks are plentifull and cheap and would make a great "cruiser" IMO. Would be awesome if you found a good early one with the steel dash (something I didn't even know existed until "doubleclutchinweasel" introduced me to them). Don't hold back (but don't snap up the first one you find unless it's exactly what you want for a good price). There are lots available and parts galore.
  6. Still gathering info for my B61 project and am looking at the trans swap. I read somewhere that the bell housing/clutch had to be used from the B61 because the Lever points UP on the factory TRXL-107 and points DOWN on the b61 plex trannys. I did a search but can't find where i had seen it or any reference to it. Is this a straight swap and if so, what parts from the plex trans do i need to use with the 6spd?.
  7. So, just to be sure, just remove the three bolts that bolt the pump to the cover, remove the rear support and pull it out? (after all lines and linkages etc are removed of course). Replacing the coolant hose while the pump is off is sound advice. I already did replace that coolant hose and yes it was a PITA.
  8. Not sure what kind of pictures but here are a few. If more are required just let me know what angles are needed. Thanks.
  9. I have an oil leak that appears to be from on of the side plates on the block behind the injection pump. The pump will need to be removed to get to it. What is the procedure for removing the pump and reinstalling it without messing up the timing?. Engine is a 1981 E6-350 2 valve.
  10. Yup, not a big deal. I called the guy I got the engine from and he said to just go poke around the sheds and see if i can find one. I didn't find one so he said he would check with his boys on tuesday to see which engine they can open up to pull an oil pump from from. In the mean time i will order a pan gasket and blast and paint the pan.
  11. Found the problem. After exhausting everything I could think of I finally broke down and pulled the pan. The pick-up was broke off the oil pump. Looking at the broken opening to the pump and lining it up with the dip stick I can see that the oi level was about half way up the opening so when i started the engine, the pump could get some oil but as soon as it pumped that oil upstairs the level would drop to the point that the pump starved and the pressure would drop off. The pick-up must have broke off when the truck was rolled and the oil level was higher when i initially started it up so it didn't starve.
  12. Interesting comment about the filters. When I took the filters off to remove that housing/cooler, I noticed that they were only about 2/3 - 3/4 full. I thought "how can that be???". After I had this issue and had to take it all apart again, again the filters were only 2/3 - 3/4 full. I don't know how that can be possible but there it is. These filters are new NAPA filters so should be made by Wix and would have about MAYBE 10 minutes total run time on them.
  13. As near as i can tell. I looked that up and see that there a few different ones but appears that I have the correct one for this engine.
  14. I went out and looked and there is a spring loaded plunger going sideways in the base of the housing. Took the end cap off and removed the spring. Spring is clean and the plunger moves freely. Put the spring back and the cap.
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