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Licensed to kill

Big Dog
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Everything posted by Licensed to kill

  1. Whats wrong with that?. I have 4 model A fords (3 hot rods and one stock) a '57 Chevy short step BBW, a 1944 IH firetruck, a '35 Ford 1 1/2 ton wrecker and i just picked up my 3rd B-61 yesterday. If you are nuts, what does that make me??. R model macks are plentifull and cheap and would make a great "cruiser" IMO. Would be awesome if you found a good early one with the steel dash (something I didn't even know existed until "doubleclutchinweasel" introduced me to them). Don't hold back (but don't snap up the first one you find unless it's exactly what you want for a good price). There are lots available and parts galore.
  2. Still gathering info for my B61 project and am looking at the trans swap. I read somewhere that the bell housing/clutch had to be used from the B61 because the Lever points UP on the factory TRXL-107 and points DOWN on the b61 plex trannys. I did a search but can't find where i had seen it or any reference to it. Is this a straight swap and if so, what parts from the plex trans do i need to use with the 6spd?.
  3. So, just to be sure, just remove the three bolts that bolt the pump to the cover, remove the rear support and pull it out? (after all lines and linkages etc are removed of course). Replacing the coolant hose while the pump is off is sound advice. I already did replace that coolant hose and yes it was a PITA.
  4. Not sure what kind of pictures but here are a few. If more are required just let me know what angles are needed. Thanks.
  5. I have an oil leak that appears to be from on of the side plates on the block behind the injection pump. The pump will need to be removed to get to it. What is the procedure for removing the pump and reinstalling it without messing up the timing?. Engine is a 1981 E6-350 2 valve.
  6. Yup, not a big deal. I called the guy I got the engine from and he said to just go poke around the sheds and see if i can find one. I didn't find one so he said he would check with his boys on tuesday to see which engine they can open up to pull an oil pump from from. In the mean time i will order a pan gasket and blast and paint the pan.
  7. Found the problem. After exhausting everything I could think of I finally broke down and pulled the pan. The pick-up was broke off the oil pump. Looking at the broken opening to the pump and lining it up with the dip stick I can see that the oi level was about half way up the opening so when i started the engine, the pump could get some oil but as soon as it pumped that oil upstairs the level would drop to the point that the pump starved and the pressure would drop off. The pick-up must have broke off when the truck was rolled and the oil level was higher when i initially started it up so it didn't starve.
  8. Interesting comment about the filters. When I took the filters off to remove that housing/cooler, I noticed that they were only about 2/3 - 3/4 full. I thought "how can that be???". After I had this issue and had to take it all apart again, again the filters were only 2/3 - 3/4 full. I don't know how that can be possible but there it is. These filters are new NAPA filters so should be made by Wix and would have about MAYBE 10 minutes total run time on them.
  9. As near as i can tell. I looked that up and see that there a few different ones but appears that I have the correct one for this engine.
  10. I went out and looked and there is a spring loaded plunger going sideways in the base of the housing. Took the end cap off and removed the spring. Spring is clean and the plunger moves freely. Put the spring back and the cap.
  11. I painted my engine last week (E6-350) which involved removing the oil cooler/filter housing. Yesterday, I decided to fire it back up to check for leaks and such. I started it and let it run for maybe a minute, then walked around to the left side and noticed that I didn't have oil pressure. I shut the engine off and considered this for a bit, filters where installed full, why no pressure after about a minute?????. So I restarted it and watched the cause and after 10-20 seconds the pressure starts to come up. Whew. The pressure goes up to about 35lbs then backs off to 28 (which is where it runs at idle), sits for a few seconds then slowly drops all the way to zero and stays there. WTF!!!. I shut the engine off, ponder awhile, I'm at a loss so I start it back up again. Pressure comes u to 28 then goes back down to zero. Shut it off. Thinking this through I have no clue what is going on. I start it back up and let it for for perhaps 30 seconds, no pressure. OK, so this is getting annoying. I change gauges. nothing, I remove the gauge and put a hose to a pail, crank it over a bit, nothing comes out. I did have an oil leak at the base where the filter pedestal bolts to the block so, under protest, I remove the oil cooler/filter housing. I blow air through the passage from the block to the filters and they are clear. I blow air through the gauge port and it is clear. I crank the motor and oil burps out the port in the block so the pimp is working. The ONLY thing I have left is that perhaps i just didn't wait long enough for the cooler to fill BUT, why did it make pressure then fall off???.
  12. Yes they can and if you are underpowered or JUST enough power to do the job, that can be significant. However, if you are producing 300HP and only require 150 HP do do what you are doing, 50HP to run the fan will matter little.
  13. Yes. Mine is a 1981 and the air cooling is air and water. I understand the the location of the shutters doesn't matter, it was just an observation. My 1989 Ford LTL had the shutters behind the rad and I had a guy say that he preferred them that way as they protected the rad from rocks off the front tires.
  14. I was out getting a few parts from the guy I bought the engine from. He said that whatever parts I need I can have. He has a veritable wrecking yard of Mack trucks and sheds full of parts. Anyways, He was showing me a truck he just got and said that I can take whatever I wanted from it. As we were looking it over he said that it was probably a 350 as it has the intercooler in front of the rad. It also had shutters but the shutters were behind the rad instead of in front like the older models. His son was mentioning that he had never seen an engine like the one I bought before. The turbo is tall and skinny as opposed to short and stout like all the others, and he never seen a 350 with the cooler on the intake, always in front of the rad.
  15. I had a 1987 Ford LTL9000 with a 3406 CAT that had factory shutters and the shutter stat was still available. Might have to look outside of the B model mack parts to find one but there should be some out there yet. A shutter stat is a shutter stat, doesn't have to be from/for a Mack to work.
  16. I don't recall, ever seeing a B ,model without shutters so IMO it's safe to say that they were fitted from new. Most R models run shutters also, to many IMO to think that they are all after market.
  17. I looked it up and the reason for the fan blades being asymmetrical is to reduce noise. There are also some that suggest that it is to provide access to bolts but it seems that this is not the primary reason. Anyways, the comment about room for a clutch hub on a B is valid. Thinking on when I took the fan off of the B, there is no way there would be room for a fan clutch without some mods such as suggested by theakerstwo. I'll just run the fixed fan that came off the B and see how that goes.
  18. I have a 1981 E6-237 and a 1981 E6-350, both are identified on the plate on the side of the block behind the injection pump.
  19. Pretty much. In my case, the engine cruising RPM will be 1250 so I doubt that noise or power will be an issue. I certainly can put a clutch hub on mine and probably will. My question was more about the size (diameter) and also the curiosity of why they are asymmetrical.
  20. When I got the engine to put in my B61, the fan was pooched. Got bent when the truck was wrecked. The guy I got the engine from said that he had another fan that I can have. However, being the not so patient guy that I am I thought, I would just take the fan off of the 673 in my B61 and use that. Well, I don't have the fan from the engine anymore (threw it away awhile ago) but it looks like the fan off the B61 is quite a bit smaller than what I remember of the other fan. It was also fixed and did not have the clutch (that was also broken in the wreck) that the engine came with. So, my question is, is there any reason to NOT use the smaller fan from the B61 in a fixed mount out should I get the bigger fan with the clutch?. I question the value of the bigger fan since the small one is the right width for the B61 rad and going bigger would make the fan bigger than the rad and therefore IMO of no benefit. While on the topic of engine fans, why is it that they don't make the fan blades symmetrical??. There is always one blade out of sync with the others.
  21. Looking at that truck reminds me of one of the MANY reasons I am grateful I don't live in Europe.
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