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B-73 Restoration


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Absolutely Outstanding Matt!  You are making some good progress.

As a super triple check on the door fitment and operation, verify the dovetails on the door and jamb and the door seal retaining strip with a new seal in place.  Much easier to make an adjustment while still in primer. 

Ask me why I know....

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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2 hours ago, j hancock said:

Absolutely Outstanding Matt!  You are making some good progress.

As a super triple check on the door fitment and operation, verify the dovetails on the door and jamb and the door seal retaining strip with a new seal in place.  Much easier to make an adjustment while still in primer. 

Ask me why I know....

I prefer "slabs" of modeling clay when fitting repaired, aftermarket, or generic sheet metal. Place the clay in a few places around the perimeter you are working with, align body lines and openings, open and look at impressions. Measuring thickness of impressions allows you to adjust accordingly. 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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13 hours ago, j hancock said:

Absolutely Outstanding Matt!  You are making some good progress.

As a super triple check on the door fitment and operation, verify the dovetails on the door and jamb and the door seal retaining strip with a new seal in place.  Much easier to make an adjustment while still in primer. 

Ask me why I know....

You mentioned you were having some issues with your cab, after getting it back from the shop that did the work. What did you do with the door seals and the metal retainer that holds them in place? Mine are not usable and I was thinking about using a self adhesive strip to seal the door. I'll be doing a lot of assembly/disassembly as I go before making things permanent to make sure it all fits.

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On 3/6/2019 at 2:43 PM, mrsmackpaul said:

WOW 

That's one heck of a job your doing 

Im not sure I am brave enough to get this far into a cab 

 

Great stuff and thanks for sharing it with us

 

Paul 

Thanks, it's been a lot of work, so far. Looking at using Lizard Skin, like you mentioned for soundproofing. Under the cab, inner doors, roof, cab back wall and firewall. Pretty much everywhere that won't get standard paint.

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Excellent idea as I have noted to you re the Lizard skin. Don't forget after all metal is primed, clean to remove any oil or similar on primed metal, then first apply the sound control and then apply the lizard skin. Both products are made by the LS company.

And make sure you spray both products into all the corners, tubes, weld joints etc, because the 2 products will result in a 100% sealing of all the joints to prevent moisture getting in and through - the other stick on type products are not designed to do what LS does - and do both sides of the cab floor and the fire wall.

 

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10 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

You mentioned you were having some issues with your cab, after getting it back from the shop that did the work. What did you do with the door seals and the metal retainer that holds them in place? Mine are not usable and I was thinking about using a self adhesive strip to seal the door. I'll be doing a lot of assembly/disassembly as I go before making things permanent to make sure it all fits.

Ahhh, yes.  My body shop purgatory that then turned into a hostage standoff...

I had a small section of the OEM door seal retainer so I had new ones made for the cab.  With a new seal provided by FW, I promptly drilled the cazillion holes in the cab to mount the w/s and retainer. 

The look was perfect! 

Hmmm....  The doors don't close..... 

Come to find out, the body shop failed to do what they promised and without cutting the now finished cab apart, I am left with no seal or retainer and a cazillion holes in the jamb.

At some point, I may use the same type of foam that you are considering and repair the holes in my cab.  With all your detailed cab work, any interest in fixing mine??!!

 

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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I just bought the roll foam strip with adhesive back to use on my B model doors.  Unfortunately the channels are not perfectly clean(kinda rusty), but I got foam that is wide enough to stick behind the lip and pretty sure it won't fall out.  I used 3/8" thick on the passenger door, 1/4" thick on the drivers door.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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When I bought my B, the rear mount area was weak.  The PO had run a piece of angle iron across and just let the cab sit on it.  Ya, you could wiggle the cab around.  I cut the rear cab patch off and welded new pieces across tying it into the rear of the cab structure.  Wow, the cab is rock solid.  Not quite as purdy as your repair, but functional!

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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On 3/12/2019 at 2:43 PM, Freightrain said:

When I bought my B, the rear mount area was weak.  The PO had run a piece of angle iron across and just let the cab sit on it.  Ya, you could wiggle the cab around.  I cut the rear cab patch off and welded new pieces across tying it into the rear of the cab structure.  Wow, the cab is rock solid.  Not quite as purdy as your repair, but functional!

I lucked out with my B-42. It was owned by a tree company and was mostly used in the summer months and garage kept. It had a shag carpet covering the floor that was soaked in chainsaw oil. The floor and cab back were like factory new, with a sheen of oil on the factory paint. It also had less than 100K on it. It was a really easy clean up and repaint after I converted it to diesel. The B-73, not so much, used hard and then abandoned outside. That definitely took its toll. I had thoughts of getting it on the road, but I think that would have destroyed what I did have. This will be like new if I can keep going and get it done.

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14 hours ago, h67st said:

The guy that did my body and paint work recommended Steele.

I'll probably look at some of their products to finish this cab. Luckily, I do have new windshield seals I sourced years ago from a guy in Mass.

 

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