Rob

I would agree Paul but I'll not use it for anything except moving trailers around the property to mow. That air compressor has almost 350# of tongue weight to it when horizontal to the ground and it is so much easier to not have to use a truck to move it. I purchased that tractor in April of 1997 out of the weeds as the owner said the engine was blown. All it had wrong was a rusted/corroded starter motor brush holder. After telling the former owner what the problem was and offering the tractor back to him for repair costs, he told me "I" got a good deal on a tractor has he'd already repla

SOB I like this hitch. Makes moving things around the shop so much easier: Back up, lift the 3point and go.

Silence suggests agreement.

You are correct Larry.

Pull the heater core out of the housing. I'd bet the a/c evaporator has a "carpet" of dirt buildup on it's front side restricting airflow. Much easier to thoroughly clean with the heater core out of the way and you don't have to dump the a/c charge.

If I were going to go with a V6 Detroit Diesel it would be a 6V-92TA as they will deliver the power and longevity required not requiring and air to air intercooler. The package is no larger than a 6V-71 but just a bit taller citing turbocharger installation. However It would be a problem to access the parts driven from the rear of the engine with it in the chassis without a doghouse. Power steering pump, alternator, (many times) air compressor, and near anything ancillary. With fabrication these can be easily driven from the front but it may get crowded. Lots of versatility in a Detroit D

Yup. Probably a replacement front drive and the bolts didn't get properly addressed, worked loose through use, and departed the mount. Looks like an aggressive driving style was the final nail in the coffin for the parts. Truck probably needs greater attention than just the torque arm.

Seen a couple of 6-71 Detroit engines in a B-61 chassis several years ago. Never worked with them, just knew the owners and both were transplants. Also have seen a 6V-71 installed into a B-61 and it took little modification to be a slip fit.

All tanks I plan to use check good so onto fabricating mounting brackets. I ordered new brake hoses for the front axle in 3/8" size with 1/4" NPT fittings as original. Also have new type "12" brake chambers for the steer but replacement diaphragms too. This is the original size to the front brake axle. Type 30 were on the original drive axle and that is the same size as the replacement(s) but now have spring brakes so type 30/30 chambers. For the rear I'm stepping to 1/2" for all the hose connections that I don't reuse the original type "K" copper. The truck is longer now so some of the origin

Hitch arrived today and I'm quite happy. Very heavy built and good welds. Maybe China built but it is "Titan" attachments out of Memphis, TN branded. Only thing I didn't like was no lock washers where the bottom pins thread into the weldment for retention. I installed grade 8 split lockwashers and blue Loctite on the threads so it's shouldn't vibrate loose.....

Never really had a problem in my B-61 but after I purchased the R model I had problems on short order with that vent window frame. I too always rode with my hand on the lower mirror brace in the B-61 but usually hold the steering wheel in the R as the right hand is always on the shifter, or also on the steering wheel. Power steering I suppose and never really thought about it.

Only problem I've ever had with the R model cab was catching my pinky finger on the left hand in the vent window frame twice over the years breaking the finger joint. That is one hurtin SOB too. The window frame is close to the steering wheel and manual steering exacerbated the issue. No complaints to the ride, room, visibility, or anything like that. The R model was built to be a working unit which it did admirably over the years. Only drove a single working R model that was on air ride and I didn't like it at all. 1986 model on Hendrickson, (I believe) in first a tractor, (dump trailer

Also need to acquire new tank mounting brackets. The originals much like the donor are simple angle steel and are bent/rusted up warranting replacement and the original type mountings will not work with my skirted winch bed. All tanks need to tuck into the frame or be inside of frame rails as the bed has underbody tool boxes and measures out to be a tight fit.

Thanks for the explanation. Never have taken this one out of the box but it has it's bracket and electrical plug included for mounting and connecting up. Truck never had a drier in the past and I really never had any problems over the years, (other than tanks rotting out) I drove it, but now with air ride and the ability to be a portable air source for tools, I'd like dry air. I have a new "Sharpe" 606A drier which is the type I used in the shop when operating and they work well as a point of use drier. Probably overkill with the second drier but I don't like rust in my air tools; some of