Rob

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Rob last won the day on January 14

Rob had the most liked content!

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About Rob

  • Rank
    Bloated Dieselholic
  • Birthday 01/23/1960

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mack Paradise-Farmington, Illinois
  • Interests
    Family-Support Base

    Antique Mack Trucks and restorations of the same.

    Autobody collision repair.

    Working antique heavy equipment.

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    A-40H, B-61T, B-61ST, B-67ST, B-61S, RL-797LST, RL-797LST, RL-755L, R795, R612ST
  • Year
    1951 1957 1958 1962 1964 1973 1974 1978 1977 1980
  • Other Trucks
    1965 IH R-190, (Fred) crane truck.

Recent Profile Visitors

7,447 profile views
  1. Rob, could you please help me out here with this R model. Have it turned up a little but for some reason I'm still not getting full power. Unhooked the valve on intake hoping that would work but feels no better. Hill's it fine, top end is 60 to 65 tops. 1985 E6 300 engine

  2. Not too difficult to repair properly once the offending material is removed but someone certainly didn't know, or didn't understand the dynamics to correctly to modify truck frames.
  3. Think I've seen that one too at one time or another. Not familiar enough with any area of Chicagoland to know where however.
  4. New Frame Rails

    Well damn it. I went out to the shop to move my R-612ST into the building to shoot photos of the cab mounts for Vlad and after depressing the clutch pedal prior to starting the engine, it promptly stuck there when I let up on foot pressure. I can shove a pipe between the spring hanger and force the throwout arm back and it releases suddenly, but promptly sticks down once the clutch pedal is depressed again. Looks like something is rusted up from setting as I don't use the truck very often at all. When I changed the transmission, (RTO-12513) all new throwout fork, shafts, and bushings were installed and rotated easily. The clutch is getting weak and I have a new one so will probably yank the trans back out and install at that time. I can't depress the pedal enough to get the trans to stop spinning so don't think I can move the truck without starting in gear.
  5. Splindle cleaning

    Yes, that was common. If you removed the "Speedi-Sleeve" from the drives they could, or could not be factory supplied when new. Replacements should be readily available. There is a tool recommended for their installation but I've never had one myself. Have always used a block of wood, (usually oak) and drove the sleeve on slowly and evenly. Put a thin layer of grease on the seal riding surface before sliding the hub into position so you don't burn the seal lips up during initial start up.
  6. Splindle cleaning

    I'm not familiar with a tool needed to reinstall the sealing ring. It should have an "O" ring on it's inner surface which bears against the spindle and most have a roll pin which engages into a hole in the spindle to keep the sealing ring from spinning from seal drag. Some of the sealing rings from OEM were a press fit and the roll pin was not there but one would bore a small hole into the area where the sealing ring abuts and the replacement seal ring would slide right on. Some factory installations had a "Speedi-Sleeve" installed already. Those you just tap into place with a block of wood being easy to not distort it as you drive it onto the sealing ring. A little here, a little there, and they usually just walk right on.
  7. Puff Limiter Revisted

    In my experience with them they will not save fuel or boost economy. When they are adjusted and working correctly they limit off idle torque rise in the lower gear or two and reverse. This has saved many a driveline when loaded heavy and in soft ground. Also helps out a bunch with hired drivers whom don't have to pay for parts when the fail. Ensure the reversing relay is operating correctly by plumbing a pressure gauge into it and the air cylinder on the trans is not leaking internally if so equipped. You need air to the reversing relay from and air receiver, and manifold boost for the relay to cause the cylinder on the pump to operate correctly along with the shims to allow proper rack movement.
  8. Splindle cleaning

    Those are called "Speedi-Sleeves" for use when there is a wear groove into the sealing surface. Ensure you get the correct seal for this usage as there are times undersize seals for these. I use crocus cloth myself to clean up most sealing surfaces as it doesn't scratch other than in the micron range.
  9. 1979 western R model six wheel dump

    That truck has been for sale for about five years as I was originally interested in it long ago.
  10. New Frame Rails

    Didn't get a chance, (lazy actually) to go out to the shop last evening but should this afternoon for more photos of the mounts. I'll be picking and stripping the cab of the R795 from the chassis within the next couple of weeks for fitment of my 12V-71T Detroit engine, and if someone wants dimensions, I will be able to provide them.
  11. New Frame Rails

    I'" snap a few of the R-612ST this afternoon and attach them also for comparison.
  12. New Frame Rails

    See if I can do this. The first four photos are of the western RL-797LST. Last three photos are of the eastern R-795ST. I was going to snap photos of the R-612ST but it was outside the shop and forget. The front tank mount is different between the R-795ST, and the R-612ST and the R-795ST has an additional cab mounting bracket which elevates the physical cab mounting from the frame. The rear cab mount is just like a western truck and significantly different from the R-612ST. As you can see the western truck has a flat insulator bushing for the cab mount where the eastern truck has the trunion mount style mount arrangement. Both of my other western trucks have the same flat insulator setup although the RL-755LST uses a slightly different insulator type yet. It resembles neither of the two style shown here. All photos are snapped of the right side cab mounts of the trucks. The mounting arrangements could be swapped between cabs easy enough by removal of six bolts if I remember correctly as the cabs are the same; only the mountings differ. Clear as mud? Rob
  13. injection pump

    For a used pump with no history it is too high priced IMO. The existing parts for your pump can be rebuilt and repaired if you can find a talented guy whom takes pride in their work. It is true there are no plungers and barrels left in regular inventory but like my V8 pump, they can be rebuilt. I used a company in Mexico and they did a wonderful job on building up the plungers and barrels. I made about half of the gaskets for the pump and sourced the seals locally by size and rebuilt it myself. I then sent the reassembled pump into a calibration shop and had it calibrated for timing and fuel delivery. It cost $125.00 plus shipping to have each plunger and barrel hard chromed and lapped to correct sizing and all other parts were reused except the pins and bushings in the governor. I had the pins made from W1 steel and ground to proper size and had a custom reamer sized for the bushings. The truck, (water wagon) runs like a "scalded dog" when you get into it as it should. I have less than $1250.00 in everything all inclusive. Relatively cheap for something long obsolete. If I were looking at a pump core I'd look to give no more than $250.00 for it if it turned and didn't have plungers stuck.
  14. New Frame Rails

    Having both in the shop I'll attempt to snap some photos for you this afternoon. From memory they are weldments and look just like an eastern built truck; just taller. The western mounts affix to the cab the same, (same exact cab between eastern and western) but the mount(s) are for a flat mount insulator. I think I can get decent photos of my 73 RL-797, and the 77 R-795,
  15. They've always been high priced and I really don't know too many folks whom will use them when the cost is out of pocket expense. I've gotten by for years using the fine thread pitch without problems.