Rob

"Momma" was gone this morning so did a little cleaning in the kitchen sink and I finished up just about five minutes before she walked through the door. Funny cause she didn't say nuthin about that acrid smelling shit I just finished fumigating the place with. You know the stuff some spray when they want to make the bathroom smell like anything but what they just flushed..... I opened up a little trough in the break so the rod will get some penetration into the base casting when ground flat. I've ordered some carbide burrs to finish form the weld deposit once completed.

This is my shop vac and the first load I vacuumed from the truck: This is some of the floor area under the matting. The black things are the air plenum between the floor ribs and they were packed full: After removing the right plenum and vacuuming up better than half the nesting, I decided to take some photos. Not shown is an aluminum plate that was above this area the matting laid upon and when that plate was removed, only the top flat portions of the plenums showed. The balance of the area including the angular rising of the plenum was full, as was the heater cavity. The compete interior was like this and it was solid everyplace. Didn't take any photos of the dash but it was just as full. Here are the area around the perimeter of the cab upper structure: Don't have photos but the roof wasn't quite as bad but it was still infested. Better than half the insulation has been "repurposed" by the mice. I pressure washed the inside of the cab just as I did the engine, cab, and frame. Pretty clean now but was messy going. Lots of dirt and crud beside mouse remainders washed out and so far everything seems to work. The mouse nesting did corrode the fuseblock and only one connection for the truck signals needed to be modified with a new fuseholder. Everything else seems to still work well. Need to pick up a couple of lamps for the gauges but that's not too difficult. This is the upper door card on the passenger side. The door itself was a massive internal comb: Not really a job for the weak, or faint of heart as it was pretty nasty. I gain a bit on it everytime I work with it, but getting close to moving along now.

Thanks, I'm still kicking as is "Momma" with me being the target.

Always ran either Mack branded filters or Fleetguard on the rollbacks many years ago. Never did run any additives but purchased fuel from the same places daily and they turned over a lot of fuel daily. Never did have any problems. Nothing was setting however. Was into my 12V-71T a couple of weeks ago and noticed an injector on each bank tight. They still moved but were much too tight. Removed them and gave the same treatment mentioned earlier on the 92 series but just reinstalled once loosened. I'm going to drag the engine out shortly and go through them as nearing time to finagle that into a truck. Planning to move two RL-700 series chassis' outside and behind the shop so I can get operable trucks inside to break them apart along with gain some elbow room.

I agree on the Howe's but they didn't have it at the farm store where I was. I've never had good luck with an injector "freeing" itself if sticking when being driven. I've had lazy ones free up with the addition of a gallon of ATF into the tanks, but that was before using any additives. I usually pull them when stuck, submerge in the solvent tank for a few minutes, remove and shake them fairly dry, then play a propane torch from just below the spring to just above the nozzle tip. This always releases them for me. I then submerge in the tank again and work the injector while submerged. Never have had one stick again, (yet). I knew this one had the spring control tubes as there was no shutdown flapper. Kind of a dead giveaway with that clue. I took the set of reman injectors with me just in case I couldn't get it to run along with new rocker cover gaskets. Only really negative thing was the rear brakes were frozen and would not cage, nor back off. I'm talking severely rusted in place. I took a Sawzall to the slacks on the front rear and had to beat the shoes back from the drums after removing the dust covers. I installed new slacks on the drives and new 30/30 cans on the front rear and the brakes work very well now. I couldn't get the adjuster to budge with a 1/2 impact in the field. After panic stopping a couple of times the brakes are fine now. There is a guy in the next town up north wanting that grille bad. He has a nice 4300 series, (Cummins Powered) and his grille isn't as nice as this one. Once I firm up my plans with this truck I may work a swap with him but don't know yet.

Yes, grille is not bent at all which was surprising. Truck was very attractive when being run and really pretty quiet in the cab. Wasn't the typical "screamer" Detroit was known for. I remember it being worked like yesterday but I was a lot younger then..... Really no problems at all getting it to start. New filters with fresh fuel and just a couple sniffs of ether after the oil pressure was 60+psi and she rolled right over. Took a few minutes to pick up the five cylinders ultimately but I think it ran on three for almost 1/2 hour before picking up another. Detroit's liked to stick individual injectors when setting long periods. If this happened in the "71" series, you could have engine runaway. Most "92" series had spring loaded control racks which allow the engine to run with a frozen rack. I dumped a quart of "Power Service" into each tank and swished it around pretty good. It continues to smooth out and I have a fresh reman set of injectors, but want to see if these will clean themselves before replacing them.

I miss NONE of that kind of work. Hard to even have desire to work on my own stuff any longer at times.

Forgot, even seen some other derelict trucks around back: I hate winter just so you know.

Got off my seat in front of the computer that really was doing a great job of keeping my ass warm to trudge in the snow at the shop. What a change it was. I walks out behind the building and gaze in wide wonder of the treasure(s) I've acquired and think to myself, "God, don't let "Momma" see none of this"!!! Trudging a bit further back I spy an old B, and R series cab I've scabbed a few parts from over the years: After getting a quick look inside the B series cab, I discover the little round plate which is the object or my quest: After removing this round plate the thought immediately crosses my mind, "What will I do if the inside of that door get's wet"????? I did wind up thinking, "Damn" I sure hope this is for the greater good...... Now with that big hole in the door I sure hope the cab don't rust out on me. I'll see if I can't get that plate shipped off tomorrow morning when I'm into town.

I never liked actually doing that kind of work so I just stayed designing it for other's to do.....

This was my uncle's truck for several years. Once he retired in 1984, the truck was parked in what was then pasture/feed lot and set right there till mid July this year when I pulled it back after attempting to fire it off: When parked, the tree against the grille didn't exist: Unable to get the truck to fire off without opening the hood, I borrowed a backhoe loader and pulled it back a few feet: Now able to see what's under "there", I tipped the hood: Uncle always liked those Detroit Diesels and this one is a 335hp 6V-92TA. Started up pretty easily with fresh batteries, and fuel filters. The fuel in the tanks is vintage 1984 and they were full: The 6V-92TA engine run well but had a single stuck injector. Wit the help of a dear friend and former participant of the site from the old days, We brought it back to the shop: After a nice bath at at just under steam temperature: Stuck down injector my finger is pointing to: Injector freed up, overhead run, governor adjusted, and ready to button up: Running quite well on all six. Latched up the trailer and going to zip around the property to test everything: Had to gut the interior as mice had overtaken it. I removed 17 pounds, (no exaggeration) of nesting in the floor, doors, dash, and in the trough above the windshields where the wiper motors mount. After dropping the headliner, there was about four more pounds. No ascertainable smell prior to removing panels but the passenger door window was down about 1/4 for all the years. Lots of wasp nests also. I set a electric coffee carafe in the cab with a 50/50 mix of Clorox and distilled water and boiled it out twice with that killing everything that even thought about stinking. The engine runs very well and it readily makes air. Brakes are sound and I do think if I install new turn signals and brake lamps it would DOT. However, the radiator is very weak, the front end is getting loose, the bushings in the rear spring suspension are worn and it's got some cracks in the aluminum cab. Given it starts easily in cold weather without being plugged in, I'm going to use it for a "yard horse" and break my B-61, (Yella Dog) down for parts. It too runs very well but that turbocharged engine can go into another B-61 I have in much better physical condition:

I've had very close to that style duplicated by a good automotive interior shop. However, that style really didn't wear that well as the inherent "sliding" the driver will do when ingress and egress of the cab was hard on the "pillow top" style of interior. Very nice older truck. Always liked the IH cabovers myself.

Guy I know has a M54A1 Mack truck and tells me it started puking oil for some reason a couple of weeks ago. On the phone, (with his explanation) I figure it's either the seal between the block, the turbocharger oil feed line, or oil cooler feed/return area(s) compromised. I drive up there and after keel hauling my ass up into the engine compartment he starts the engine so I can get a first hand look. It's puking alright at a pretty good clip. After removing the oil filters this is what I found: After removing the oil filter adapter and cleaning up a bit the true reveal shows plainly: After digging out the sealing ring from the recess trough: Going to be an interesting repair for sure. I'll get a couple of small carbide burrs after it to open the crack then enlist the help of "Bart the Homo", (my welder on left): and weld it up with the correct filler after preheating the casting in the oven during the wee hours so "Momma" don't catch me using "her" appliance. The casting doesn't get to warm so will probably use a 55% nickel rod and give it a slow cool to ensure a lasting repair. Little die grinder work in the trough so the ring seals and should be good to go. No idea if fatigue or impact caused this, but I seen no damage to the truck and the leak is pretty fresh I'm told.

Found the information myself. Thanks, Rob

Scania never built much to look at in trucks, but their engines, (especially the V8) were always a force to be reckoned with.