genoredstar

Seen a unused remack engine at auction, might be cheaper to do some swapping as opposed to going through my entire engine, such is the reason

Have an E7460 v mac 3 motor, If i change the cam out and exhaust manifold can this work? thinking I may need to change lifters as well as push tubes. Use my eups, injectors and turbo?

Hmmmmm. that might be a problem

Give me a call, I'm only in idaho, sure could use a spare Gene 208-573-3989

When this truck is right boost runs up to 39 to 40 and holds till it starts dropping in the toque curve at 1650 or so . If its hot out , above 85 degrees i see a lil softening of the upper boost to about 38 but almost always above 35 psi. I'm with you on the grey hair and bald spot. nuthin better than talking to experience!

If im correct losing 5 lbs of boost is about 15 percent of my power in the middle of the torque curve

at my place, they wont even give me a bill yet as i texted the service manager and told him it aint running right. I cant find any specs on boost but I know they run around 40 psi at 13 to 15 hundred with foot firmly in it. He knows I know right from wrong,

I got introduced late in its tangled life. Thinking it got more brute strength than TLC, I'll make up for it. Now to think rationally or emotionally! only 750k miles I hope its not scarred emotionally from being molested

I really appreciate all the help, I'm older more of a mechanical motor guy , electronic stuff is a bit confusing

No, Im theorizing that as a possibility

cups were done about 6-8 months ago, Dont think they did the injectors

was experiencing loss from external leaks, then after all those were fixed i still had a leak, replaced radiator, needed to go back as the bleed line to the tank was leaking.

first cooler, was in for a service and that popped up , then the egr valve and manifold upon subsequent returns This truck is on it's 4th motor. bought it at auction and it had warranty from a rebuild. the third motor new from mack blew up with 900 miles and out of original warranty, chronologically, but how do you not warranty a 900 mile boo boo. Took a lil wrangling and threatened a trip to the warranty office at corporate personally before they relented and shipped #4. When I put the #3 in they noticed it was deleted, after of course, and I paid for everything after the turbo, ouch23K. Hurt Mack more than ME though! What corporate dont know wont hurt them.

Coolant loss, leaks kinda point to a pressurized cooling system to start, no? They claim the egr was leaking slightly, Turbo actuator had a lil play and turbo had a very minor bind or change in effort in its operation but neither made a difference when replaced, as the egr didnt have a noticeable effect when it was replaced. How can we narrow or test for bad cups or injectors if no codes?

i'm thinking I need to stand over the techs as they are scratching their heads. The truck will be new if they keep relacing stuff. Not gonna pay for turbo or actuator or egr valve or manifold they broke the bolts in .I'm thinking could be an issue with cups or injectors. Maybe we start with leaks, ..... again and double check eveyrthing before moving to the next set of parts. Fuel pressure did cross my mind as well. no codes or cel debris or leaking fitting? sucking air or combustion gasses in fuel gallery?