Vladislav

What are the bushings you are talking about? Does a triplex have rear mount to the chassis? Ot those the engine seats on at the rear? Just have no idea and wonder what a B-model has of that setup.

It's "hanging" on e-bay for quite a while. i asked the seller on the second chassis to sell separately (hoping no modifying done to it) but he answered it went with the truck or avalible after the truck is sold. Might be a good score removing all the components and putting them on the 2nd chassis but with the amount of job involved it kills any inteest. I suppose it would go for something like 5-6K but not sure.

I think a figures around $200 would be fair for such unit. But i don't remember many folks looking for a tranny to swap in a L or B-model. Another moment those old gearboxes could be having water in the past went through the shift lever after leaving outside even for a short while. So worth to remove the top cover and watch the gears. The one I had to rebuild changing many parts looked this way.

There's also setup with a torque rod from the RR carrier housing to the right frame rail (like airrides have) on Camelback suspensions starting from sertain raiting.

That's why I pointed out the difference knowing you have Western R which is almost a different story to East one along the hood, frame rails, front spring hangers etc. Of possibilities to make RS700 of RS600 you can note the position of the front cab support brackets on these two pictures you posted. Looks like the spring hangers together with battery boxes and air tanks are positioned the same. But for the longer hood the cab is moved backwards. So the mounting points on RS700 are close to the rear edge of the battery box cover and RS600 has them near the front edge. To move the cab you would probably need those brackets themself (But they might be the same), move the rear cab support cross member, put new cab floor panel with a different hole for the shift lever, that lever as it's different, make the steering shaft longer (or different?) and so on. Probably could be done having a correct hood but not a one day work. And sure worth some extra investigation on a subject of purchasing a solid RS700 truck instead.

I double that! Jim, how long ago the pic was taken?

A ton of job seems done to it. But all on the owner's taste.

I found in my copybook a figure of 54-1/4 length of after '82 Eastern R-model hood. I remember I checked out the one on my R688ST of 1988 and it was to that size. So Keith's figure is the same dimintion, just with 1/4" difference due to the particular hood or the particular measuring band (I once got such issue with 2 different bends) Also I see a figure of 53-3/8" for a pre-82 Eastern R hood. It was in series before the chassis mounted after cooler took place.

Let me toss a handful of dirt a question in the ring - do you relate R600 and R700 Eastern R-model hoods? From what is written above looks like you do that. But I'm pretty sure the measurments of RS600 and RS/RL700 Western Valueliners would differ.

Looks attractive for the cost. But some details are missing on it such as RH air tank, cab visor and left step. Taking this to account more losses might be found. Thank you for sharing.

I'm not ready to tell about the outer sizes since the 11.00-24 I have are all deep under snow at the moment. Another thing I was going to tell is the tire inside diameter, where it seats on a rim bad. Reading figures 24 and 24.5 I expected those sizes to differ for 1/2. But once I made a check my surprize was they happened to be the same. So looked to me .5 inch in the marking was added to notify the tubless type of a tire. But actual fitting size wasn't changed. Sure the type of tire sidewall is different between tube and tubless setup so no way to fit one instead of another. But just about the geometry it's possible.

Spent a bit of time. Wouldn't look bad on my mind. Hope you might be enjoyed with the result for the Christmas.

What a beautiful truck you have! There's another Liberty RW with a big sleeper in the Netherlands and as I was told and if the memory serves 4 Superliners more were known existing. MH's is another story, have no idea of.

Merry Christmas BMT!

Let me avoid participation in the common sence discussion with simple apologizes to R-model trailer and Winfall sitizens instead. Oh, and the hat for sure. Thanks for the pictures Tom.

I have doubts on good look of red frame with such painted cab. I might be wrong of cource and final decision is always by the owner. Or by owner's wife sometimes. For the best you may draw a primitive picture of the truck using MS Paint or another graphic program. Too easy to fill areas with different colors to observe general appearance. You would surprize how many variations go away during just first 10 minutes of experiments.

Sad thing - the e-bay page said "May not be shipped to Russian federation" Nice color combo.

Merry Christmas BMT! Those Santa helpers could even push me off my wish way

DM with zero offset cab is a R-model a wrong DM.

Letter N was used by Mack to start naming military truck models during WW2. There were NO, NR, NM, NB, NJU and some others in the line.

11R24.5 is NOT equivalent to 10.00-22 That equivalent is 10R22.5. That's if we talk about the size. Moreover, the actual fitting ID of 22.5 tyre is the same as 22 tube type one. The same for 24.5 relating to 24 tube. Once i measured them I was too surprized but that's the fact. Another story is putting a rim on a hub. If your truck has spokes to ride on 22 tube type rims 24.5 tubless would fit on. Look on the both of them. Old rims seat on spokes by its very center. Tubless rims have additional rim welded in the center. That inner one fits on the hub and the outer (main one) accomodates the tire. That spicing (difference in diameters) allows installing a tire of 2 inch OD larger. So by fitment 22.5 goes onto "20" spokes and 24.5 does on "22". Overall dimentions are expected by me to be close of 10.00-22 (100.00R22) and 10R22.5. The same for 11.00-24 and 11R24.5. I haven't done sharp measurments and particular tires used to vary of acrtual sizes but in general that rule worked as long as I could find out.

I wouldn't decline an offer to clean my street the way as seen on the pic #2. Or better like #3 Tom, which roads do you drive? I made no less that 600 miles during that week in November driving over NJ, NY, CT and even PA and saw only 3 soft nosed R/DM Macks. And the only pic I could make was R-model septic tank from its septic side. I even dodn't see any intend posting it on here. Oh, Ok, I forgot. One RW I saw in he mirror levels up the count What a beautiful bird kicking that f**king snow !!!

Woo-hoo! Thank you Paul! It took me a bit of head scratching to figure out what model of the truck is displayed. Definitely it's NO 6x6. Of original components there could be recognized chassis on 12.00-24 Budd wheels, front bumper with heavy winch, front fenders, hood and grill. Any ideas on where the picture was taken?

The look of the cab is very promising. I just try to imagine the whole truck. No doubt would be great. Wish you smooth way to end up the project.

The later (square nose) RD cab is a combo of Superliner left side and R-model right side where air cleaner is attached. I bought such RD cab ocassionally with further plans to convert it into RW in the far future. To the moment it seems to me as you need the upper right corner of a RW cowl to weld in. The right lower area is different also but seems as possible to custom-rework. For the best the whole RH Superliner cowl corner is required. There might be another option - use the cab as is and cut Superliner hood at the right to fit R-model cowl and filter. That's the way all Australian RWs were made. But those hoods were adapted to a R-model cab at the both sides