Vladislav

In my country if you're going down the road with even DISABLED but still mounted red or blue light on the roof you would loose your licence for a year or two. Nice and interesting looking R.

By a chance I adopted a couple of pics of MH cement mixer from some trucks for sale site. It was Spanish if the memory serves.

Is that common to have a 9-speed transmission and a 38000 rears in a dump truck? Doesn't look like redone from a tractor but makes thoughts.

Ufff... Maybe it's nice when laying on a beach but I would better showel snow.

Ocassionally I found out that the most of Japanise heavy trucks use those 8 lug wheels. Here are many companies which import used wheels from Japan and for trucks either. I saw pairs of quite good 8.25x22.5 Alcoas for reasonable but had no need in them.

The picture "in red colors" (above) was taken by an owner of L-model firetruck whan he had an issue wth that brake light switch. That unit is relatively small, nearly 2.5" of the body size, a bit less than a quick release brake valve on modern trucks. Body has mounting holes and an airline attachment fitting of nearly 1/2" At the top of the body (looking at the picture) it has black plastic insert (plug) with two screws - wire trminals - sticking out. The most L-models have that switch mounted on the inside of the LH frame rail right to the right of the gearbox. The sopt you seldom research just using or basically fixing a truck. But if you investigate the area you will find it with not much efforts. It could be easily seen on the below picture to the left of the tranny especially if you zoom it in.

Directional light switch mounted on your steering column, you pull its lever when activate turning lights. Brake light switch is too probably mounted on the engine side of the firewall if your 95 Mack is model RD. Relatively easy to find since that's a kind of sensor mounted on the firewall an air line comes to and two wires attached to terminals with small nuts atop of. The switch is operated by air pressure when you apply the brakes. Sorry I have no idea on where such thing was located on CH, CL, MR etc since Mack produced many different trucks in 95. But i'm sure it operates the same way and its location could be found in the same area.

Definitely you don't need any rust as a structure element. So the way to go! Don't forget to catch dry weather on the back run. A light freeze is the best for the season.

The switch I need has metal body with plastic plug turned into at the top. There are electrical terminals in that plastic part and contacts mounted inside. The trouble I found the threads of a really thin thread were partly broken. So i worry to have the plug spitten at some time since full air pressure applied to it while braking. I would make a new plug but the threads are SAE and it should be hard plastic, not a metal part to provide insulation. In theory a metal ring could be made with a lathe having required threads outside and a kind of locking shoulder over inside circle to hold the plug in place. The latter should be machined either to allow clearance for the ring. In any case seems easier to find a solid part and just re-install the plastic since the body is blasted and painted a while back. The "red" picture - someone's valve on a L firetruck. The "khaky" pic - the body of my valve, rounded with a red circle. The thing seems being used in 40's years.

Nice!

i need a air brake light switch. Mounted below the driver's door on the inside of LH frame rail. sure if your L has air brakes. Also i would like to purchase a really solid steering wheel. But seems like a doubtful entertainment about the chances. Vlad

Good score on the classic car shots. Other Dog would give you Kodiakatronomy award for. That yellow R dump makes my mooth water.

I was also in need of 11.00-24 tube tyres since that size was original to my Mack. I didn't roam over United States checking out every tyre shop. So using interweb search bought what I could find locally. Those were 12.00R24 West Lake Chinese tyres. Unfortunately no experience riding on them so far since the truck is not ready. But from the outside observation and during mounting on rims no issue seemed. Another Chinese brand I'm familiar with is Aeolus. I bought a set of 2 steers and 8 drives and put them on a R-model. It's not a working truck and no many miles experience. But I drove it for 2 or 3 thousand km to the moment and at least can state they're round Also I can tell plenty of people here buy Aeolus, Triangle, Double Coin, West Lake and other brands and quite satisfy with them as long as I was answered asking. Sometimes I here "I'll buy a pair of Michelins for the steer and the rest of Chinese for the drives and the trailer."

Honestly i was holding my breath opening the thread since I thought you built one more model of a RS and this time a wrecker Nice truck.

Thank you for the reference pictures. I see your story is moving along. Glad to observe the pogress. Those side cowl panels also present on my cab. But of easier style having no vents. So the plan is to order them completely new. The issue seem the front and rear edges have double bend with small distance between. Locally the most of shops have limitation on the minimal distance between two bends. So my hope is on personal egeunity or just luck. So far I prepair to open the can of warms closer to the summer.

The ratio is just your choice now. I would take slower diffs for dump truck operation. More power to pull and slower to crawl. But you should also check your top speed when in the highest gear to cruise down the highway. So I would go with the lowest ratio which allows you to have reasonable revs cruising at the same time. For the best you should make calculations being based on your transmission top gear ratio, tire size and preferrable revs at the speed you would like to cruise. Look over the old threads in this section of the forum. The matter was discussed many times in the past.

Not the worst snowy day, isn't it? Best B-day wishes!

I heard the weather doesn't baby East Coast now. Hope you'll be able to keep the tarp in place. Like the idea and the size of the project. Just wonder how much of snow could such structure hold. Probably would collapse if I make something like that in my environment.

As I noted this past June roaming over Mack dealership yards "New rust free" is also not a rule.

Maybe. Also dependng of your location. I doubt you would get much more than the scrap cost. Maybe scrap+. Anyway it seems better to get the part a go to be used by someone than scrapped. A couple of pics would light the fire brighter.

Mack air operated power divider is almost the same the automatic power divider with additional option to full lock.

I like the Aussie hood look. The headlight are mounted lower on it. Also Aussie RW was built using R-model frame rails I have an extra set of. The cab used was also a stock R-model cab, not American Superliner one. I have a spare one either. So seems like one attractive idea to assemble a replica... with RH steering and dash to be correct All that would be a difficult deal if look the things real. In my situation seems more reasonable to buy a complete MH cabover and install R-model cab and US RW hood imported. I have a track on a couple such cabovers in the country. Another option is to find a good (and long enought) Superliner frame in the States and ship it in a container what costs reasonable. But right at the moment I try to avoid initiating this entertainment being sure I should finish two current big projects before. And those are taking critically lot of time. So no Superliner building so far. I only collected a RD cab, 12 speed gearbox, couple extra sets of rears, NOS bumper... Ok, never mind. No frame and hood so far

I like the idea to fill with rock and strap to a tractor wheel or a portable cncrete mixer barrel. To the moment I have done 4 steel truck tanks and the most thing I figured out of that the job is difficult and expensive. If you don't worry about the look of the weld seams or they allow by style reskin it with new sheet metal. I did two of them such way. Another (the 1st) pair was rocked and rolled what took alot of efforts including welding the holes which took their place after cleaning the rust and the result didn't seem perfect. So no I would go another path cutting a big hole in the back side and sandblasting the inside through. Than welding it back after.

Thanks, got it. Wonder how much would UPS estimate to ship a complete Aussie RW2 hood...

No need to chill the garage. In fact high humidity is usually in the areas people are living/breathing/cooking/washing. So if your garage doesn't have a lot of water such as wet flloor or snow from tires brought in the humidity is low there. Relating to a living room or just a summer time open air. Seems like when you don't bring any water in a room and heating operates the wapors go away. The cab you see on the picture is in the warm garage for a week to the moment and I saw no fresh rusty spots so far. I should admitt to complete the matter cast iron is more critical about air humidity that steel. And I even prefre to blast and paint brake drums in winter. They used to show initial rust just in 2-3 hours after being ultimately blasted on a hot sunny day. The cab was quite good at the time I put it in work. Excepting some rust in rocker panel seams you couldn't see from the outside and same of the seam where the floor is welded to the rear wall. The floor itsel had pretty much of thick surface rust being wet in the cab for years of outside storage. Also some stress cracks needed to be welded and the roof bent hard by people walking (or dancing?) on it. The reason seemed the cab was good 1st it's galvanized 2nd not too old being 1988 made. On the other hand I doubt the truck spent any day under roof until I put it in a garage to part out this past summer.