Vladislav

There was also a serie of WW2 LMSW heavy wreckers produced. They were used by Canadians. Had the same style flat fenders but central positioned cabs. The later ones had military style open cabs. There are still many survivers in Europe, mostly in the UK and the Netherlands.

I have almost the same issue with one of my R688. The pressure goes up to 150 pci and than some protection valve opens in the air dryer (or somewhere below the chassis) and drops the pressure to 120 psi. I took the governor apart and than swapped it with the other off the second truck wich worked correct but had no good result. Haven't go on the fight path already yet, need to collect enough of info to start.

Your idea is very appreciated. We all here like old truck pictures The L-model is nice. Vlad

But it's cheap and as said there it's running.

Was the frame stretched up or they used a different frame? Doesn't H-model frame have the same style rails as a B-model do?

As MikeD said. You should be careful about big flat "unsupported" areas like hood and door shells. Just do many times spraying sand from longer distance. I work together with my "blast guy". He wears a full dress with helmet and can't see rust perfect through his glass. So he makes blast and than I comes close to check out. Make marks with a piece of chalk and he repeats there. Up to 4 times to get it clean completely. I was told you can easily deform a car's roof or hood (bonnet). With Mack R-model parts I had no issues so far.

Tom, I don't remember your chief (or it was dispetcher Randy?) sent you that far. Thank you for sharing the road pictures, I've never crossed the river of Missisippy. That KW in the mirror looks worth the picture. As for Heavy Gunner's shots... It seems not many chances to buff bugs off a windscreen. Especially wearing a Winfall style clothes Currently you can find something like that overhere on the local roads. -15 -20 Celsias for the two last weeks.

No body filler or speedy sleeve where bearing seats. There's a stress area and it should be repaired good. Might be welded up but you should take care about heat since the part itself has thermo treat. There are shops wich apply "plasma" method or some other way of metal spraying on. Locally a friend of mine helps me bringing parts to the halvanic shop where they put chrome onto worn off area. Not a thick lay though, up to 0.3 mm so maximum 0.6 mm diameter increas is possible that way. After any metal "grow up" or "spay/weld on" it needs machining. For the best it would be grinding. The most machine shop can do that, I just use to come to the guys who grind crankshafts. They must center the part perfect and need some other not damaged co-axial surface to check correct center.

Nice place to look all those old truck pictures. Probably alot of stories either. Sorry if he'll cancel the site.

Some while back Mike Superdog shared pics from Keystone Tractor Museum. That truck was there on the display. I see one more H63 in that picture, the yellow one in the back row, right behind the cab of the amber truck. Is that a yellow H-model Matt Pfahl restored for someone?

If your cab is a naked skeleton it wouldn't be a great issue to remove sand with a compressed air. Sure outside. The most trouble is seams and other sammich areas where you're not able to take rust from in between's. So it worth to observe every doubty spot on how to work it out. Maybe open some splices drilling off weld spots to get a gap between parts wich allows you to blast inside. Anyway scratch off, remove or cut out everything you don't need in the cab before blasting. Overall it takes some while for a good preparation but as a pay back you get all ready surface to cover with primer and than continue working where weld/hit repairs are required only. And with incomparable level of rust clean.

From the pictures it looks very nice. And I'd note that's a kind of reasonable listing whan a reasonable price makes very reasonable interest.

I was just wanting to ask "where's the cab??" That hood hinge cap damage area looks strange indeed. But you never know where such an old lady roamed during all her lifetime. What's on the plan - sandblasting or wirewheeling? At least no rivet work is required

Welcome! Vlad

Bushings. Old trucks had brass ones, newer use poliurethane.

Mines were perfect as much as a chromed plastic part can be. I related them with the set on my 1988 R-model cab wich has a half chrome gone and they looked almost the same including the lenses. I still keep some crazy idea to find a shop wich would be able to reproduce their bodies of copper by halvanic way. Saw model builders made scale car bodies that way but it was no less than 20 years back and I lost the track. Putting real chrome on a copper body would make it shine forever. But taking to account those made in China SLC's cost it's much easier just to get a spare set.

Any roof parts inside the cab or you going to keep it "cabrio"? Great find.

There's Timken drive axle at front. Wonder about the transfer case, suggest Timken either. And it seems to me they don't put the cab much higher but lowered the front fenders.

Hope you'll go smooth through al the story. Would like to see a progress. And just forgot to mention, I'm agree on the black with red strips paint scheme idea. Would look cool on my mind.

Neil, thank you for the great explanations. Now I can see both the original front axle setup's had rubber pads, neither spring shakles and so on.

As said above! Do you have any pics of the Lanova off it? I'm almost in love with them and see no way to divorce until I get my one running. Vlad

I might be more lucky being born already learned of what OTR is..

Wow, I didn't know that. Thank you for sharing, ran out of likes for now.

Fingers crossed Rowdy. Today checking the local email site I read about the flood in St Louis area and thought to myself there was nothing on BMT about it. Now I found out what I've missed. My hopes for the best for you.