Vladislav

Thanks a lot. I rifled through ebay but haven't found any blue ones. It looks though like my truck differs a bit from yours. All my 3 knobs seat on 3/8 shafts and at least the red and the blue have the shoulder along the edge like the blue one you found. (The yellow's are gone on the both R's I have). My R-models are of 1988 so it may be related to that. I found a couple of yellow from Midland wich look right but can't count out the shaft size. They're KN20901 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Haldex-Midland-KN20901-Yellow-Diamond-Parking-Brake-Knob-for-Push-Pull-Valves-/171772641070?hash=item27fe727f2e:g:KAkAAOSwPgxVQVFC&vxp=mtr and KN20903 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Midland-Parking-Brake-Pull-Knob-Part-KN20903-/141883504579?hash=item2108ea77c3:g:tjwAAOSwf-VWaI0A&vxp=mtr

If anybody put part ## of all three knobs (and of the both 1/4 and 3/8 styles) on here it would be too appreciated. I'd like to have all 3 knobs new in the cab since some of them are broken and some have the scripts gone.

Those high firs along the snowy road are great. We have something like that overhere but not everywhere. This shot was made about 4 years back when I cruised some local road right after really hard snow storm. Somewhere near Latvia border, 300 km North and 500 km West from Moscow.

You're right, I should post more. But the central part of the country where I live is generally flat and not interesting. And I don't drive much. I love mountains being born and grown on the flat.

Eye catching scenaries!

As said above. I purchased the 36" set and still figure out the length to go with. And the flaps are still on the shelf

Non-smokers keep their health. Keeping a health well worth extra sometimes

Until now I was shure Ed didn't look that way... And excepting Winfall staff I can remember the only our member once pictured that style - Olivetroat. As for the above picture I see nobody wearing a tin hat.

The submarine garage is a cool thing, I'd build exactly the same if I ever start fixing submarines. Nice sunrise shots. Don't know though what did you feel making them since whole the king size sammich was gone in the evening before. The old truck picture is sure worth to be posted on here. The bumpers are outstanding

That's one cool video, thank you for sharing.

Thanks a lot Jim. Will try to find one, had no luck in the past.

What's about one to fit 3/8 shaft? Has a roll pin either.

It would be cheaper indeed when current sidewalk cleaners will take crap off for free.

No images?

Fresh paint together with new bumper makes it look great. What did they do with the frame?

Sounds like a plan. I think I should drill when a stud is in its place to align the holes. That way the steel shouldn't be extra hard to allow drilling. Hope no need in securing the nuts, I put liquid seal on every bolt and nut.

Are you sure they're stainless, not chromed steel? Not easy to figure out sometimes.

No words. If everyone is allowed to pee anywhere the next step is to allow to shit either. Interesting is all that for guys only or both for women? I suppose it is.

Candy!

That wouldn't be easy to find 1-1/4 tap here. And rust kills a tap fast. The ones I have look poor. My current option is to order them machined. But I need to ask for a good steel, not a "nail material". And I should take the old ones out for first.

It looks like I found the answer on the matter of the stud http://www.vanhorntruckparts.com/product/28298/Neway-Beam-End-Stud-E-4258/ A common stud all threaded. Probaly must be drilled through when in place and then locked with a pin. $38 for just a stud doesn't seem nice. Especially multiplied by four and than by 1.6 to import.

Actually those studs have no heavy stress on them along their axle direction since straight movement reaction from the drive axle goes to the frame bracket through the front joint (bushing). Traverse beam is for airbags and seats on the tube part of the equalizer. The stud just keeps the traverse from getting off but no real load at this joint. So probably no extreme strenght is required there. As of the stud is turned in or pressed in I found interesting the point Fullfuel put in. He said you can get it out with a piece of tube put on and a nut turned on the end of the stud. Turning the nut the stud is being stressed out and should go.

Larry, I remember you fought hard your beams and weld them up but there was nothing posted about the studs. Hope my tubes aren't that bad but I can't be shure until fit new bushings on them wich I currently have not. Question: is rubber set tight on a metal center tube of the bushing or might be removed easily? I might try some used ones since a new set seems costy. I'd need whole 8 of them. And I already bought new front bushings and pressed off the old ones. With some labour in 20 ton press. But going to fit new ones in place after painting.

Hmm... I'm afraid years made them look different in my case. I tried to hit one a couple of times (hard enough) with no luck. So probably need to heat them up well or just drill off. Any other ideas?

Setup I have is ARD-125 as was marked on the tag. Neway offers those studs under #900 06 380 http://ww1.safhollandtest.com/sites/damedit/literature/xl-ps10457pm-en-us.pdf