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steve s.

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steve s. last won the day on September 6 2017

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  1. Air ride would be nice, but it will cost more, take more time, and never look like it belongs under your B model. The choice is yours, but if you want to save time and money while keeping your truck looking original, just go to a spring shop and buy the leaf (leaves) that you need. I needed a main leaf for a 56 H model, and the spring shop had one on the shelf !
  2. If it is the original engine, the model would be a B753, the three denoting that it was turbocharged. The model and serial number should be on a tag on the lower part of the passengers door. The serial number will also appear on the frame near the rear spring hanger for the passenger side of the front axle. The serial would probably begin with B753S, the S indicating a tandem rear axle, if it was built that way. There were a total of 1825 B753 models built from 1955 to 1966, in a variety of configurations. To say that there were only three like the one your looking at might be true in some obscure way, but it sounds like a stretch to me. Looks like a nice truck, and it is certainly worth fixing.
  3. VIN numbers did not exist before 1969. Your truck has a serial number. That is the number you will need to use when asked for a VIN. The number should be on a plate at the lower side of the passenger door. It is also stamped into the frame near the rear spring hanger for the right front wheel.
  4. I have a very nice driver side 3 hinge door . It is either NOS or completely restored. I also have an NOS 2 hinge door skin for the passenger side if that would help you. It could easily be adapted for 3 hinges. Steve
  5. If John Chalmers is not able to help, here is another possibility: When I overhauled my 673 engine, no "set" of piston rings could be found. The Mack service manual had specs on each of the ring sizes and types. I took that information to a Hastings website and ordered the rings individually to make my own set. The price was very reasonable, in fact it was a bargain. Like so many things you encounter with an old truck, you sometimes have to be creative to get the parts you need. They are usually out there somewhere. Might be worth a try. Steve
  6. If you added a transmission with a .75 overdrive, and changed nothing else, you could run 60mph at just under 2100 RPM. Simple.
  7. You have a 4 speed transmission with fourth gear direct. Changing to a transmission with a fifth gear that is overdrive would be a good way to gain road speed. Changing your tires to 10.00x20 (or radial equivalent) would gain you a bit more. I am not familiar with the CR25 single reduction rear axle, but it is quite possible that another series of differential might fit in your axle housing, giving you more gear ratio options. Start with the 5 speed.
  8. The 4 things that affect road speed are engine speed, transmission ratio, rear axle ratio, and tire size. You can't do much about your maximum engine speed. Does your transmission have overdrive? If not you could change to a transmission that does, or you could add an auxiliary trans that has an overdrive ratio. You can probably find a faster gear ratio for your rear axle, or change the whole axle to something with a faster ratio. The larger the diameter of the tire you run, the higher your road speed will be, but the change won't be great. So, what transmission and which rear axle do you have? They are probably your easiest places to make an improvement.
  9. Ty, you have a lot of good advice already, I will offer a different approach. We don't know what your expectations for the truck are, or what kind of timeline, budget or skills you can put into this project, but.... Possibly the easiest and quickest way to get the truck to run again is to pull the pistons, hone the cylinders,install new rings, lap the valves and put the head back on. if the rust is not too bad, you can probably live with the pits in number 5. You won't ruin anything by trying this method, and you may just find out that the engine you have runs good. If it doesn't, at least you can move the truck around while you search for a rebuilder or another engine. I am assuming that the engine was not exposed to the weather with the head off. It's worth a try. Steve
  10. I had a B61 with the engine tilted to the ditch side. It was not the original engine . I have no idea why someone did that, but it was a pain in the neck to work on at times. In order to pull the back cylinder head, I had to drill a hole in the firewall to remove the last push rod. Trying to use a torque wrench at that odd angle from underneath was awkward to say the least. The engine must have come originally in an MB or some other cab over, as the engine number is on the back of the block, under the cylinder head. I took the engine out, changed the flywheel housing and water pump housing, and put it in a different B61 standing straight up. I like it much better this way.
  11. Julie, thank you for telling us about your father. I have been following his posts here for years. He always added something of value to the conversation, and there was no doubt that he knew what he was talking about. He spoke with an authority that only time and experience can give. I am thankful that folks like your father take the time to share their knowledge with the rest of us. We will miss him around here.
  12. Here are a couple pictures to help clarify things. The red truck has what some call the winter/summer air cleaner. it is the one with the cable on the dash . I think it was more or less standard equipment in colder climates, but that is only my opinion. The green truck has a Donaldson air cleaner. I have usually seen these on trucks with turbos, or Cummins engines, although I would bet you could have ordered one on any B model. The Donaldson has a larger capacity . The bolt pattern on the cab is the same and either one will bolt up. The Donaldson has some different brackets inside the cab, and the air tube that goes though the cab to the firewall is different , too. The tube through the cab is some type of fiberglass or plastic. The air cleaner from the red truck is available. Steve
  13. I have a winter/summer type air cleaner set up if you could use it. It does not have the separate bracket.
  14. It is more likely that your timing is retarded than too far advanced. When the spark occurs late, fuel can still be burning as it makes its way out the exhaust. Maybe you could set your timimg with a vacuum guage. Or do it by ear. Just advance the timing as far as you can without getting spark knock under load. The timing marks don't seem to be helping any. I doubt that the carburetor is the problem unless it is the wrong one for your engine. Pulling out the choke to make it run cooler is strange. Drilling your jets is not a normal repair for anything. The alcohol/water injection is a good idea, and will allow you to advance your timing more, but you really shouldn't need to add it. Another thought is that your cam timing could be off. Good luck
  15. I installed a Garwood winch, the same model as Swishy's, on my B61. My transmission is a Quadruplex and I used a PTO with forward and reverse to drive the winch. An extra gear was needed to reach in to the pto drive gear in the transmission. The pto drives two # 80 chains to the winch. It could have been a fairly easy job, but I got carried away and made the whole thing more complicated than it needed to be. One of the things I didn't like was that the pto shifter, if mounted straight up through the floor, would have been right where a passenger's leg would be. I spent quite a few evenings making linkages to move that pto shifter over next to the 5-speed stick. I have not yet run the truck; it is still a work in progress. Steve
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