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chillywilly

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    i operate a small fleet. I own about 10 rare antiques

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  1. chillywilly started following Old Macks
  2. chillywilly
    I've been told the factory grey paint on rims is called "dove grey", does anyone know the paint number or info. I also need the number for the light green interior color of the early F and R models Thanks
  3. chillywilly
    PS I assume with the Hollywood sickos on strike, you must be outta work as a Paul Newman stand in.....can't you find work at the salad dressing plants for a while?
  4. chillywilly
    what do you have to give somebody who has one entirely intact, original yellow paint but covered with moderate tree sap, 2 transmissions from the factory, frame with all original rivets (no bolts or alterations), original rears , and newer 220 Cummins that ran 10 yrs ago when the idiots....I mean kids.....burnt the clutch.......asking for a friend
  5. chillywilly
    Need decent B drive-side vent window 'assembly" either chrome or paint-able. Body man at dead end, need to keep him moving. Willing to pay to rush Thanks ! 864 230 9843 David
  6. chillywilly

    Do you have a B-71?

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. chillywilly

      chillywilly

      Great, I assume day cab??   Help me out, I am no good on a computer and cannot find where I noticed your name associated with a B-71. Heck it was only 8 days ago, and I cannot find the 'page' I was viewing.  This site is great, but it may be a while until I can master all the "pages".    Anyhooooo, tell me about B-71. I was lucky enough to get the sleeper (1955) in excellent restored condition from Mr Crouse many years ago and just recently removed it from storage.  I have no idea how to post a pic (yet) but I can e-mail you....maybe send me a pic of yours >> greenville.sc.dave@gmail.com <<  thanks

    3. chillywilly

      chillywilly

      Ha   I found your pic     I "searched" for B=71 ....maybe I did that 8 days ago     very nice       where did you find it?

    4. B MACK

      B MACK

      Thanks. I am the second owner of the truck. It was originally a log truck. I bought it local , in northwest Montana. I took all of the log rigging  and cab guard off. Yes, it is a day cab. I think the B71 was only powered by a Cummins. The engine serial number matches the numbers on the build sheet. And the Cummins tag on the accessary drive say it's an NHB335.  

      100_0150.JPG

      100_0313.JPG

  7. chillywilly
    I need advice on wiring harness purchase. I'm willing to buy Watts and wait 6 months, but wish to be assured of outcome. I am wary of 'one size fits all' and hope somebody knows somebody that bought one somewhere that was happy with experience.....anywhere. THANKS everybody.
  8. chillywilly
    I need some help. I cannot figure out how to view my "DMs" either inbound or outbound, what am I missing?
  9. chillywilly
    I hurried on up there 150 miles to claim the prize and left deflated. I am no expert, but it appeared to have been painted 10-20 yrs ago with red primer over the already rusting cab as an attempt to preserve it. It is a huge project for a deep pocketed true believer, and could it could be done. My old man had about 5 of these exact, I assume they were gas converted to diesel. In our back yard we played on them along with the sleeper Autocars for many years, and then my Mother demanded they be removed. At about 14yo, in 1969, I was told to cut them up, and I did with an elderly worker holding the water hose. The gas engines / blocks lingered on for a while lying about. The A -model, H-model, and the others are a bit better shape. I did not even try to view the LJ engine since there was no way for me. The interior is extremely rusty and beyond anything useful. I think they are a collection of an old time truck man that never could find a way to restore....I exited quickly to hide my tears without conversing....I thought I had found my white whale.
  10. chillywilly
    If a man was willing, could a H sleeper cab be cut down to a H-69? Can anyone send or direct me to pictures of H-69? I found one photo, but not enough there to determine level of idiocy to proceed.
  11. chillywilly
    I have same issue, 1960 B-73, about ready to sandblast and paint. It appears the holes were unused due to longer hood , but the cab needed air.....i gave up trying to figure out the set -up. My B-61 uses both holes to accept air into the cab and pipe it on out to engine. Somebody put coffee can lid type light metal. Kinda funny, reminded me of my patch work in the good old days. I googled "4.5 inch freeze plug" and found many possibilities. No freeze plugs that large, but many other plugs for testing and plumbing. I ordered 2 pipe expansion plugs for $50 a piece and was very pleased....they will have a factory appearance as well as an unusual appearance after painting. They have a wingnut in the center, and will appear factory design. BTW- my 2 holes are slightly different- one is 4.5in and the other is ~~4.4in I can find the box if you want to consider them....I cannot find my order e-mails and receipt.......the place was in Florida
  12. chillywilly
    Ha If I live long enough for a next time I'm lucky enough to devote all my time and shop to this, but dealing with 'outside' help is brutal......we are at sandblast / painting stage and I'm not at all hopeful. Nobody has the time Acquiring the parts is going well enough since it needs few.....$1000 floor mats ain't gonna happen, but I think I found some about $500 I think the hood dogs are incorrect new later style, but I have 2 on a H-model or firetruck. Gonna make my own middle floor plate since it will covered. I am more and more impressed every day with imagining all the people who did excellent restorations with 'wore out" rusty hulks.....I doubt I have the patience to stick with such a campaign. Thanks
  13. chillywilly
    Boy, is my face red....well, actually it is rust colored. I got a fatter screw driver and a rubber pad to protect the aluminum and --presto- it popped right out. There are 3 small angle brackets that curve down ever so slightly and "pinch" the frame. One side is attached with 2 of the tank bolts (3 brackets), and the other side of the angle have the loosely attached 1/4 net and the other hole is un-used. The pinching parts were rusting against the rusting bracket. You can barely see it in the 2 brackets D-Day posted..the top bracket shows the slight "J" shape ..not an expected "L". I can sleep now thankssss
  14. chillywilly
    Thanks everyone I am in Franklin 1-2 month can you can e-mail me >>greenville.sc.dave@gmail.com<< it finally stopped raining and I intend to flashlight it in the dark tonight I am loathe to force any damage since this thing is perfect condition, especially the shutters your photo points toward something beside an unknown bolt 3 bolts only the "lip" at bottom appears to be only about 1/8-1/4 inch all the way across that is what I thought, but it so firm stuck, I worried there was a longer lip in the center I cannot remove slats because the cylinder arm prevents I working alone.....it's hell growing old retirement sucks nobody to boss around
  15. chillywilly
    BTW- the shutters are long single one piece, there is no center divider making them 2 piece A friend asked me, I vaguely remember seeing a 2 piece
  16. chillywilly
    If I understand you, that would be fortunate...........after removing the 10 or so small bolts (1/4,stainless,phillips), the aluminum shutter bars became free and able to move a bit, and will need to be 'guided' out because of the air cylinder arm (now disconnected). This is not part of my problem. The frame and bars seem to be unattached from each other. The frame surrounding the shutter bars is very free on the left, right, and top, but is held firm by something at the bottom. It could have a "lip" holding it and maybe if I raise it somehow. As free as the frame is, I doubt I will be that lucky, it is solid. I can use a screwdriver to raise each side about 3/8in....anymore would be risking damage. Please continue THanks Maybe in the dark I can flashlight a better look

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