JoeH

How did bolts break? Did they pull out of the threads in the block? Did the bolt heads break off and leave the rest of the bolt in the block? I'd guess someone overtorqued the bolts and stretched them, thus weakening them. Maybe try grade 8 bolts. They get torqued to 42 ft lbs.

If you didn't have the hills id say it's be a waste on the maxidynes powerband, they make 90% torque from 1200rpms up. Extra gears are kind of a waste, you're pretty much always in your powerband. And the maxitorque trans has 3 countershafts to handle the torque, the Eaton only has 2. Do you have an engine brake on there? It'll make a huge difference on your stock setup, makes the tall gearing a breeze when you use the engine brake for shifting. I'd start by putting a Jake brake on before swapping transmissions. Not sure what the top gear ratio comparison is between the two transmissions, that'll tell you if you'll gain or lose top speed.

Looks like he's off the shoulder enough to pitch the center of gravity a bit more safely.

My 79 R686st leans the same way, I assume it's saggy springs or to compensate for crown in the road.

As a concrete truck driver, I can appreciate this thread. Let's see this kid balance this wheelbarrow with 300lbs of concrete in it.

Less rotation mass on direct drive I would guess with tall rear. Crank connected to input straight to output to the rears. On an overdrive power has to go through the gears. Before the output shaft. Both still have the deadweight of gears though, being constant mesh.

Might be one in the fuel filter housing? I've never worked on one this new. 😊

On the "it still runs so they won't replace it" comment a couple people made, it's getting crap for mpg. Operator expense is massive, and it's still going to need more repair than a good runner. It gets 3-8 mpg you said. 8 is great, 3 is junk. My volumetric concrete mixers get 2.5-5 mpg, and they sit onsite mixing and get a lot of idle time. I'm sure you've been kicking yourself all year wishing you still had the 88 you mentioned. That's the era all our trucks are from.

They put the wrong engine in. It's supposed to get an em6 engine. Id be hollaring at them for a new truck. If they can't get this one working they better replace the truck and take this one back. IMO when you buy a truck from a dealer/manufacturer you expect to get a truck that runs problem free for a substantial life. If it can't do that, well they better get you one that will.

My 95 RD688 you have to hold the switch just right to get it to work. We have never replaced the switch, but maybe it's a crappo switch design?

I had an 01 etech 400 that had ABS codes, there was some way to get the codes blinked for that too, but I don't recall. Get me the engine codes and I'll look into ABS codes in the meantime.

If he hasn't pulled you're engine codes and told you what they are he's a dipshit. Go to the truck, turn key on, don't start engine. If lightning bolt stays on, you have an Active Fault code. With cruise control off, hold down set/decel button for 3 seconds. Lightning bolt will blink a 2 digit number to you. Write it down. Each set/decel triggers computer to give you one code, if there's multiple active fault codes you need to hold set/decel again to draw the next code. Keep pulling codes til you've gotten all of them. Post codes here, I have a Mack manual that lists all the codes. If one of the codes is serious the eecu will limit power to prevent serious damage to the engine. Could be a simple sensor failing. An engine rebuild doesn't fix electronic problems, it just fixes the mechanicals, which might be perfectly fine. Don't throw money at a problem you haven't diagnosed.

Got it fixed, at the bottom of the page is a theme drop down selection. Default doesn't work for me, OEM does....

Just started getting this message any time I try looking at a topic. Doesn't show any content, just this message. [[Template forums/front/topics/topic is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

I think DMs in general are ugly. Doesn't help that ours has a 20k front axle. You may as well not have suspension at that point. I don't like the steel hoods, it must be a pain to work on anything in there. DMs are already hard to work on, and to have one that the whole hood doesn't tip out of your way? No thanks. But I can appreciate a well taken care of Mack show truck that isn't a Molvo.

You can pull active "blink codes" with the cruise control. Easy to do, procedure should be spelled out somewhere on here.

I frequently drill rubber with a barbed pipe fitting in the drill press, it basically acts like a hole saw. It's actually 2 barbed fittings joined by a pipe coupling. One to stick in the drill chuck and the other to do the drilling. It moreso punches through than drills, but it works on the rubber I use. Doubt it'd work on that stuff, but maybe thinking outside the box will get you taken care of. Not sure if it's the hole through the middle you need to make or the shoulder. Is it supposed to have a shoulder or is that old one fatigued into that shape?

Or RM. 6x6 DM's are DMM. The 6x6 R is RM I believe

RMM

Looks like someone turned it into a not so mobile home. Looks like the axles were pulled out and it got insulation instead. Looks like a roof was put on with a satellite dish. Probably was leaking through the bus roof. You'd have to pay me to take that of your hands. Notice there's no interior photos, it's probably so moldy and grungy inside.

I'm only 29 so I wouldn't know. I'd guess the ESI + would be more popular on a highway tractor where you're logging a lot of miles, whereas local dump trucks and concrete mixers would have the ESI where your oil pan will sit higher from any off-roading threats. That'd be the biggest decision factor if it were me.

That's an ESI+ not an ESI. 2 oil filters for ESI, 3 for ESI+. Different capacity oil pans. ESI + pan is 56 quarts of oil, 25,000 miles between oil changes.

Is your dimmer switch turned down? Sorry I'm in an ask stupid questions mood! 😎

Dumb question: is your coolant level low?

There's probably a few temp choices when buying a thermostat. Cars are like that, you can choose 175°, 180, 185... No idea what choices Molvo gives you. If you're down south maybe the factory put in a cooler thermostat because you deal with hotter temps than we do up north. 180 is what I like my trucks to run at, but everything I have is '95 and older. My 95 RD pushes 200 a lot. Need to clean the radiator and intercooler.