Ezrider

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Ezrider last won the day on August 10

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About Ezrider

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Bismarck, ND

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    cx613
  • Year
    2000
  • Other Trucks
    freightliner fld 120

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  1. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    thanks, im pretty confident as long as the replacement used pump is in good shape. my plan will work. i think most seals should be able to be locally sourced if i need to change a few but the plan is to just use the best parts of both pumps and try to get it working again. I'm ok with under 200 bucks to fix it. didn't want to pay over 2k to rebuild the pump on a skid steer that is only worth a few grand on a good day with everything working right. especially when the plan is to replace it not something i plan on keeping a whole lot longer. i was a little worried about how i was going to push snow this winter if it wasn't going to make sense to fix it. iv got a few spots where the snow has to be pushed quite a long ways. was thinking i might have to get a plow for one of my pickups witch inst the best solution either as i have a lot of area that needs to be back dragged. and doesn't have any of the other functional uses a skid steer has. one of them things your used to having a skid steer even if its a old small kinda junky one when it goes down you wonder how your get by without it....lol
  2. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    so i think were actually figuring some things out now, i just pulled the dang thing out of the skid steer today and started taking it apart. bearings on the input shaft are completely fubar. separated the case half's the piston pumps actually look ok. the roller bearing on the back side of the case on the input shaft fell into peices. i got the sheer pin out of the input spline but the input spline is stuck on the shaft pretty good. but while trying to remove it peices of what looked like parts of the sheer pin to the small gear pump that pulls new fluid into the case fell out. so i would guess when the coupler broke it fubared my bearings extra shaft play broke the shear pin on the fluid gear pump and caused my current problems. i went ahead and ordered the used john deer drive. seems the only real differences are the swash plate throw to reverse is limited and there is a different pressure relief valve. and ill need to plug the implement ports. swap my swash plate into the john deer and swap the pressure relief valve and it should work.
  3. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    ok so i did make a little progress on finding parts availability on it, the drive units are a sunstrand 15 series u type. witch i am having some luck in finding some parts for although expensive 650 bucks just for one piston pump assembly from what i have seen. from a old thread i found on a skid steer fourm this same drive unit is used in some jhon deer tractors, with some minor differences but the internals parts are the same the swash plate is limited to reverse and the jhon dear ports hydro preasure off the drive to run implements where the skid steer has a separate pump for that. but i found a used unit on e-bay off a jhon deer 140 for 150 bucks. my thought is to maybe buy that and swap the internal parts to make a used part rebiult unit for my skid steer. if i get a chance today the check valves can be removed externally i will try pulling them and cleaning then and try it again.
  4. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    i am thinking whatever the problem is its going to be after the supply line enters the pump when i blead out the line to the pump after the filter change i got a ton of oil flow with just 2 psi in the tank. no leaks prior to the pump. everything seems a-ok there. i suppose next i am going to have to pull the drive out and start taking it apart. i wish i knew were to find parts for it. although i have parts diagrams with part numbers gehl does not supply these parts any more. i am a little hesitant to take it apart without knowing i can get replacement parts for whatever i find wrong. my guess as to what is going on is i think the block that the pistons go into took some pretty heavy wear when it ran dry. im not really sure though. i don't see any internal screens or filters in any parts diagrams i guess that doesn't mean there isnt one though.
  5. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    when it does operate it will operate in both directions. but if under load (tires on the ground rather than in the air) there is a obvious cavitation noise. when applying the left drive. most of the time i have been trying to run it i have all 4 tires off the ground but once you get it blead out enough to drive the tires, it will continue to work in ether direction although at a reduced from normal speed till you put the controls to the neutral position for say 30 seconds or so then it will air lock again.
  6. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    swash plate piston pumps
  7. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    glitter is defiantly not a good sign
  8. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    nope not reversed. return lines a large line that just gravity feeds down to the tank each hydro static drive has its own fluid pump inside the unit filter is under vacuum not pressure. fluid is sucked from the tank into the threw the filter to the drive unit where its pressurized in the unit and then converted into rotational force. there is a drive belt that runs down from the engine to the drive units. and spins a internal pump
  9. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    Changed the filter filter was full of glitter pushed flud to the pump till I got no air then managed to get the return line off and plugged the side to the tank and pushed some fluid threw the pump started it worked but slower than the other side for a little while then stopped again. Exactly like before. The only leak that can be found in on the rod for the control. Mabye it is sucking air from there. I'm thinking it took some internal damage
  10. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    i e-mailed all state ag parts and asked them if they would have a hydrostatic drive motor for my skid steer, they e-mailed me back and said they reviewed there inventory and would likely have one and wanted me to call them. so there might be a option there if they don't want a arm and a leg for one. i really planned on getting a different skid steer this year winter but it just might not be in the cards have not had the best year this year. but i still need something to push snow with. don't want to put a ton of money into it its probably only worth a couple grand at best with everything working properly on it. and the engine is pretty tired. plan for today i think will include changing the filter then i will unhook the hose from the hydrostatic drive pressurize the tank to push the fluid out of the tank threw the filter and out the end of the supply hose to make sure i have no air trapped prior to the drive. try priming it again and see what happens.
  11. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    i think i will try to replace the filter and go from there. im pretty sure no hoses are collapsing both sides use the same feed prior to the filter and the side that is still having issues is the one with the new hose. preasureizing the tank with a few psi of air revealed no leaks prior to the pump, but i agree it seems like it is still introducing air somewhere.
  12. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    the hose that leaked was post filter. so the filter shouldn't have gone dry. and the right side drive is working properly the left is still giving me fits. i am amusing everything at the filter and below is fine do to the right side drive still operating properly. i have thought of changing the filter because maybe if its partially plugged up might be making it harder for a possibly weak pump to work. most systems iv worked with always had the filter on the return side rather than the suction side as pumps like to push better than pull. so i am thinking a restriction at the filter might be adding to my problem. however at the same time i hate to possibly introduce more air into the system.
  13. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    sounds pretty close to what i have tried to do run it in nurtal and each direction with the tires off the ground and then try to drive it a few feet back and forth the problem i am having is after i get it blead out enough to move on its own it gets air locked again can't look inside the tank, like normal for a skid steer 10 lbs of crap cramed in a 5 lb bag although this one really isnt as bad as a lot. still no way to see in the hydro tank other than see whats on the dip stick. but the hydro line suctions from the tank the line goes uphill to a filter then t's post filter and to each hydrostatic pump. back down hill witch is kinda a weird setup to me but its how its always been and how the factory diagram shows it being plumbed. i have thought of trying to change the filter as well but at this point i hate to chance introducing more air into the system. from the hydrostatic pump it then returns into the gear case where it fills the gear case about half full and then returns to the tank threw a large hose by gravity. there is a cover on the very top of the gear case that i might be able to remove and look for bubbles. i do know i have air in the pump. there is some plugs on the front of the case where a optional preasure relife valve can hook up i have been able to get air to purge out cracking the top plug and then will get movement of the drive again for a short period of time. however it will still be weak. it seems like it really should not have this much trouble pushing the air out. especially considering the return is quite a bit higher than the suction line. of course i suppose the pump tolerances are probably not as tight as they should be as this skid steer was biult in the 70's hydraulic tank is full and bucket controls work flawlessly however they do run on there own pump
  14. anyone know much about hydrostatic drives

    might be a challenge to try to pull a vacuum on the return side its probably a 1.5-2 inch hose that comes off the gear box. hose is kinda old and stiff would be hard to get it off without damaging it. and then would have to figure out a way to get from a 2 inch hose to a vacuum pump. wet dry vac mabye....lol if i can get the hose off without damaging it might be easyer to try to plug the tank side of the return line and pressurize the tank. im thinking the pump is probably damaged from running dry. or sucking air from where the control arm comes out of the case. seems like hydrostatic pumps should move quite a bit of fluid seems like once it started moving it should push all the air out rather quickly unless i am missing something.
  15. iv got a old small skid steer. its a gehl 2500 long story short i was using it the other day broke the coupling that conects the two hydrostatic drives together and damaged the oil feed line to the left side pump. didn't look like the hose was leaking fixed the coupling and went to finnish what i was doing 20 mins later left side drive quits working. then as i was trying to limp it back twards the shop the right hand drive quits. both sides just freewheel. so i figured the hose that i thought was not leaking must be sucking air and the hydrostatic drives filled with air. replace the hose screwed around with it a while, with all 4 tires off the ground . spin the tires by hand till it biult up pressure and couldn't spin them anymore. and the right side came back to life after a couple trys. after it came back to life it was slow at first after running it for a few mins it was normal. the left side however i can get it to run slow for a couple mins and then it goes back to freewheeling. i pressurized the hydrolic tank with air to just a couple psi to check for any leaks i found a slight leak where the linkage comes threw the case on the left drive but non of the hoses are leaking and i think its leaked there for a while. or at least its always been damp around there. basicly it seems like there is eaither air traped in the pump that doesn't want to work its way out or its introducing new air somewhere. it seems like once you get it moving though it should move the fluid threw and purge any air rater quickly like the other side did. but maybe there is a trick to getting the air purged out? im at a bit of a loss i know hydrostatic drives are basicly just a hydro pump that pumps into another pump with a varaiable vane that controls the ratio to make drive power and that is about as far as my knowlage of them goes. never had one apart. guess im looking for idea's from what i can find parts are hard to come by for these drives couldn't find much found some reports of people getting them rebiult at a few different places for $3k witch im not spending that kind of money on this thing. its too small for a lot of things i need to do but its a hell of a lot better than nothing. esp once the snow starts flying witch isnt far away now. i guess if the drive is shot im not going to spend 3k to have it rebiult id rather put that money twards buying a different skid steer. esp considering the engine burns about a quart of oil per hour. if its a take it apart and replace a seal that can be found at a normal hydrolic shop that is doable.